Stormbird Build Thread - Page 5 - RC Groups
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Dec 01, 2017, 02:25 PM
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Wings done (need to dye/cut servo covers) . Maybe finish this thing today?
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Dec 01, 2017, 04:43 PM
Firecracker!
BillO's Avatar
Looking good! I was able to get my first aileron servo in the pocket and attached the clevis after opening up the hole in the horn a bit -- no glue yet. It moves the surface pretty well, but I can't seem to find a position for the servo where it will sit still. Mostly it wants to pull up from the wing skin. I think the pushrod is contacting the exit hole in the drag spar. Tried grinding on the hole to open it up but it isn't helping. My other thought is to bend the pushrod a little bit. Time to give Matt a call I think...
Dec 01, 2017, 04:49 PM
Registered User
One thing I had to do is grind around the horn quite a bit to clear splooge so the clevis will move nicely. Not so much on ailerons as flap.
Dec 01, 2017, 05:07 PM
On the Go Fly List
agarchitect's Avatar
Instead of a clevis would a thick qire with an "L" bend work on the aileron or flap end of thongs? I have seen this on a Dynamic 60 elevator install.

Adam
Latest blog entry: New Arrival.
Dec 01, 2017, 05:41 PM
Registered User
L bends could work, 99% of the problem is bad factory install of horns.

Putting it together for a quick look!
Dec 01, 2017, 06:31 PM
Morologus es
Doc James H's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by funkyfreestyler
L bends could work, 99% of the problem is bad factory install of horns.

Putting it together for a quick look!
Take it out to Davenport for a quick fly Miguel!

I think you will have a nice big grin.

Look forward to the pics!

Cheers,

Stormbird Doc.
Dec 01, 2017, 06:36 PM
Building gliders aaagain...
LuckyStriiike's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillO
Looking good! I was able to get my first aileron servo in the pocket and attached the clevis after opening up the hole in the horn a bit -- no glue yet. It moves the surface pretty well, but I can't seem to find a position for the servo where it will sit still. Mostly it wants to pull up from the wing skin. I think the pushrod is contacting the exit hole in the drag spar. Tried grinding on the hole to open it up but it isn't helping. My other thought is to bend the pushrod a little bit. Time to give Matt a call I think...
You might be having the same problem Miguel and I had with the control horns glued too far in.
Your gonna hate my solution...

I used a soldering iron, heated the crap out of the control horn and pulled them out.
I ended up using the brass horns that come w/ the IDS.

I'll get some pics.
Dec 02, 2017, 05:27 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc James H
Take it out to Davenport for a quick fly Miguel!

I think you will have a nice big grin.

Look forward to the pics!

Cheers,

Stormbird Doc.
Doc,

Might be ready to fly Sunday, it's looking sharp!
Dec 02, 2017, 11:43 AM
Registered User
So I did a few things, epoxied pushrod near joiner area using the magnet method, routed wires on the side of a ballast tube and secure them with a dollop of hot glue near joiner box . I also did a rough estimate of the nose weight required and with the bigger battery (battery being around 90 grams) I require 200 grams at a cg of 90mm.

The question is whether to use a smaller 800 2s battery and just swap it out vs leaving the 2400 2s in place most of the time. The 800 2s is safer in that I can add foam to the front and aft and it would be easier to adjust cg. In all my crashes I never damaged a small 2s lipo. To be honest I kind of like this approach, I can have several batteries with me, check the voltage and just swap out the battery. I guess I'm talking myself into the smaller battery but the real question is how much flight time can I get with it, and I'm guessing at least an hour if I'm not doing crazy acrobatics the whole time. This has never been an issue with my other gliders.

My F3X ships and my Mini-Vision have bigger batteries in them, but f3x ships are pretty tight and the last thing I want to do is mess with a battery during a race, and the Mini-vision will be used for lighter days/thermals too so I could be staying aloft a lot longer.
Last edited by funkyfreestyler; Dec 02, 2017 at 11:51 AM.
Dec 02, 2017, 12:14 PM
Registered User
Call me crazy but I'm thinking of opening the front a little bit to more easily insert battery.

Scratch that, I'm going to go with smaller battery and maybe just grind a touch off the tray opening. I'm also thinking of making primary nose weight for 95mm, a secondary piece to add to make it 90mm. This way I can mess around with cg easily.
Last edited by funkyfreestyler; Dec 02, 2017 at 12:41 PM.
Dec 02, 2017, 03:58 PM
Registered User
I agree that 800 is on the low end of capacity.
Use battery a nose weight. As long as you are adding weight to hit your cg, might as well use battery.

Not a fan of Lipo’s. Just had a club mate loose a garage and half a house due to fire caused by a lipo. Also happened to a well know Marin County mountain bike racing ‘legend’, who got into rc cars. Lost his house due to a lipo caused fire.

I am looking forward to seeing your new model in the air soon. Looks nice! Hopefully Davenport works out for you this weekend, dead calm up here.
Dec 02, 2017, 04:24 PM
Registered User
Well not sure I am going to get it done today or go to Davenpot tomorrow, need to get some work done.

On the subject of lipos only had one issue ever and it was due to incorrect charging and batteries looking identical. Now I double check everytime.
Last edited by funkyfreestyler; Dec 02, 2017 at 04:30 PM.
Dec 02, 2017, 04:56 PM
IT'S NOSE HEAVY!!!!
cityevader's Avatar
I always worry about a crash-fire. Pinching battery cables against the sharp edge of a conductive carbon fiber servo tray might not be a far-fetched scenario, in a crash, in high wind, on dry grass going up a hill...
Dec 02, 2017, 07:04 PM
Registered User
First crash today, sliding off cg machine after i turned around for a minute. Little damage and no lipo fire


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