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Nov 21, 2017, 07:56 PM
Heres how mine is going to look with ballast tube in:
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Nov 21, 2017, 11:02 PM
I glued a balsa/ca toughened wedge onto the bottom of the ballast tube with goop because with the blind nut it needs some clearance. I also cut out the hole for the rudder servo and I will goop in ballast tube tomorrow into the fuse. Because I will need to make nose weight for cg and it will be difficult to do this if servo tray is glued in I'm going to leave this for last. Tomorrow I'm going to switch gears and work on the wings.
Nov 22, 2017, 09:44 AM
Building gliders aaagain...
LuckyStriiike's Avatar
Originally Posted by BillO
Here is my ballast tube setup. I wanted it to load from the bottom, it is just so much easier than having to dodge pushrods and such. I had to add an extra half-inch on the end to glue in a stop plug. Combine that with the fact my receiver needs a little more space and I need to make a new servo tray. No big deal, just another step.

I did glue in the ballast tube today too. I went back and looked at the Schwing instructions and I would never be happy with a bunch of servo wires running under the ballast tube! How would you ever get enough glue in that huge gap to be sure the tube was secure?
That's very cool. I think the typhoons load ballast the same way.
Nov 22, 2017, 10:53 AM
So this morning glued in ballast tube.
  1. Measure and mark from leading edge CG (mine at 90 mm)
  2. Measure 5.5 inches from there on the fuse. This is the beginning of the slug and where your stop will be.
  3. Put some weight in the ballast tube.
  4. Put plenty of E6000/Goop on the ballast tube front/back and slide in.
  5. Use tray as an alignment tool.
Nov 23, 2017, 01:14 PM
So I started on wings but the wipers on mine need a lot of TLC as they're rubbing and getting stuck so I will sand and massage them until they open and close better. I also had to add some epoxy/microballoons filler to the mpx connector area in the root of the wing because there's nothing to bond to in the area. There are lots of little details in this build that contribute to making it more time consuming but still rewarding.
Last edited by funkyfreestyler; Nov 23, 2017 at 01:19 PM.
Nov 23, 2017, 03:32 PM
So I usually go for a snug fit and then use gorilla glue epoxy (which is formulated for shear strength vs hardness). I first use some Vaseline on the wing saddle area and on the male connector. Gorilla glue epoxy needs 24 hours to full cure, so I let it set up for a couple of hours and then separate and do a quick cleaning of saddle wing root area and let it full cure.
Last edited by funkyfreestyler; Nov 23, 2017 at 04:23 PM.
Nov 23, 2017, 04:22 PM
One thing I will have to do is open up tray or front of fuse to slide battery in. I might opt for a smaller 2s 800 battery depending on how much nose weight I will need.
Nov 24, 2017, 09:29 PM
So I worked on the wipers (on all surfaces including elevator/rudder) . Probably took over an hour to go over everything. I highly recommend using blue tape on both sides of the wiper to protect paint. I use a credit card and some sand paper to shorten and sharpen the edge to ensure there's no stuck wipers.

I think I could massage the rudder more and get a little more out of it but I would say where the horn the max rudder throw is about 19-20 mm.

I have plenty of throw on ailerons exceeding +- 20mm.

I should have wings done tomorrow.
Nov 25, 2017, 01:47 AM
Registered User
Are you sticking the mpx connectors into the wing?😳
Nov 25, 2017, 04:18 AM
I could see by the pictures alone why it could be confusing, the female is glued flush (slightly deeper than flush because of bevel on male) into wing. I place male into female before gluing and coat with vaseline, and I only glue female side first in case I mess something up.
Nov 25, 2017, 05:56 AM
Registered User
So you are going to glue one half of the mpx into the fuz and the other half into the wing?
Nov 25, 2017, 06:16 AM
Yes, fairly standard.
Nov 25, 2017, 06:40 AM
Registered User
I thought standard practice was to glue in the fuz half and leave the wing half dangling loose.
Reasoning Is that if you have say a mid-air and the wings part company with the fuz slightly the mpx does not come apart and the ailerons still work.
Nov 25, 2017, 10:59 AM
While that is certainly a scenario I've never seen it happen as you describe. For example my mini-vector had a mid air with a combat wing and it took a straight hit to the wing and delaminated it but the connectors didn't budge at all because the wings are taped to the fuse. The scenario that is more likely is that the male/female is slightly mis aligned and you push the female into the wing or have a bad connection and it fails before or during flight. I have seen this happen, but never to me personally. I personally like the convenience of sliding the wings together. But let's say I had an F3F ship that had ballast in the wings, and I had to separate wings all the time to adjust ballast, then I can see how letting the plug pass into the wing makes the most sense.
Nov 25, 2017, 06:37 PM
So glued in servos. I put blue tape around the servo openings and mark out where control surface horn is, hinge line, and I also mark on aileron where the servo clears the opening height.

I put a piece of packing tape on servo, cutting around screw holes with razor blade.

I lightly sand frames and pocket, screw in servo, and slightly trim frame so that it fits a little easier in pocket.

I use gorilla glue epoxy, and glue in 1 servo at a time.
Last edited by funkyfreestyler; Nov 25, 2017 at 06:54 PM.

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