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Nov 19, 2017, 08:53 PM
Firecracker!
BillO's Avatar
Here is my ballast tube setup. I wanted it to load from the bottom, it is just so much easier than having to dodge pushrods and such. I had to add an extra half-inch on the end to glue in a stop plug. Combine that with the fact my receiver needs a little more space and I need to make a new servo tray. No big deal, just another step.

I did glue in the ballast tube today too. I went back and looked at the Schwing instructions and I would never be happy with a bunch of servo wires running under the ballast tube! How would you ever get enough glue in that huge gap to be sure the tube was secure?
Last edited by BillO; Nov 19, 2017 at 11:38 PM.
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Nov 19, 2017, 09:03 PM
bayagliders.com
On other builds I just saw them open it up a little not cut it off completely
Nov 19, 2017, 09:07 PM
Firecracker!
BillO's Avatar
Guess I missed that pic...
Nov 19, 2017, 09:14 PM
bayagliders.com
Luxkystrike sent this to me privately... but public now
Nov 20, 2017, 12:25 PM
bayagliders.com
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillO
Here is my ballast tube setup. I wanted it to load from the bottom, it is just so much easier than having to dodge pushrods and such. I had to add an extra half-inch on the end to glue in a stop plug. Combine that with the fact my receiver needs a little more space and I need to make a new servo tray. No big deal, just another step.

I did glue in the ballast tube today too. I went back and looked at the Schwing instructions and I would never be happy with a bunch of servo wires running under the ballast tube! How would you ever get enough glue in that huge gap to be sure the tube was secure?
At what CG did you set your ballast tube for? I'm thinking of setting mine at 90mm.
Nov 20, 2017, 12:28 PM
bayagliders.com
Another thing I noticed for a go fast plane is how blunt and thick the lower part of the leading edge of the vertical stab. Might not matter at all.
Nov 20, 2017, 01:41 PM
Firecracker!
BillO's Avatar
I set it on the stock location, 85 mm from the LE. I will probably set my empty CG further back for light air. When it gets windy and I put in a full ballast load, I like the CG to be a bit further forward than the light air position.
Nov 20, 2017, 01:55 PM
bayagliders.com
I pretty much always start at the aft recommendation and add weight as necessary. In my very limited experience the more lift/wind there is the more a plane will tolerate a rear cg, which also means less elevator input, which means less drag. Also a more rearward cg can help with tip stalls which I believe it can happen on this bird if you don't keep it moving. This is highly personal, however, and I'm sure model specific.
Nov 20, 2017, 06:27 PM
Firecracker!
BillO's Avatar
Well there goes that darn CG preference thing again!

Now that the ballast tube is in, I did a test fit on all the other stuff that goes in the fuse. No major problems, but I would say that it would be a good idea to glue in the harness plugs and elevator servo, then route all the wires underneath the servo tray before gluing it in. It would be pretty hard to fit the wires in underneath after the servo tray is glued in.
Nov 20, 2017, 06:44 PM
bayagliders.com
Thanks Billo good tip. I will install ballast tube, test fit tray, glue in ballast tube, glue pushrod tube near joiner and exit, then mpx wires, then final glue of servo tray and finish rudder pushrod ends.
Nov 20, 2017, 07:59 PM
Morologus es
Doc James H's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by funkyfreestyler
Another thing I noticed for a go fast plane is how blunt and thick the lower part of the leading edge of the vertical stab. Might not matter at all.
Hi Miguel - actually its not intended to be a "go fast" plane - thats only a part of the requirement.

Its also supposed to be aerobatic, easy to fly and as durable as possible.

But...

To make matters worse, the fin is 10% thick and so is the stab...

Help...scream!

Nov 20, 2017, 08:50 PM
bayagliders.com
Haha Doc, I got it just observing. With the high aspect ratio it is by far the most interesting bird I am building and I am excited building it. And I get it that there other design parameters to consider. I think the benchmark is the typhoon and you easily surpassed it.
Nov 20, 2017, 09:36 PM
The Lone Sloper
zbytekfr's Avatar

Stormbird Elevator linkage


This is how I did the elevator linkage for my Stormbird. I thought about putting a servo in but, this idea popped into my head so I went with. After all the fitting has been done the tubing is glued inside. It took a lot of fiddling to get it done. It works well and is slope free. Just another idea thrown in for consideration.
I only flew it once before the end of the season, it flew excellent but you have to keep it moving. I was very nervous and I think I held onto it for quite awhile on the bungee. When I let it go it was following the contour of hill the headed for the tree line. I had no alternative but to pull up elevator and over the trees it went. I found it needed a few clicks of up until it flew level. Can't wait to fly it more and get comfortable with it.

Frank
Nov 20, 2017, 09:50 PM
bayagliders.com
That's a good idea, no bell crank necessary. Kind of something similar is done with the dynamic 40.
Nov 20, 2017, 10:18 PM
Morologus es
Doc James H's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by funkyfreestyler
Haha Doc, I got it just observing. With the high aspect ratio it is by far the most interesting bird I am building and I am excited building it. And I get it that there other design parameters to consider. I think the benchmark is the typhoon and you easily surpassed it.
Hope you enjoy it Miguel.

Its a surprisingly easy to fly plane despite the "dangerous" looks - but it is pretty fast compared to the Typhoon.

Cheers,

Doc J.


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