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Nov 16, 2017, 12:49 PM
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Stormbird Build Thread

I consider myself an average builder and wanted to create a thread to cover all the little details in this build. I purchased this probably 5-6 months ago and finally got some builds out of the way to begin this. My glider didn't include any hardware but alofthobbies was nice enough to include some mp jet plastic clevises. Some of the pre-work is to make sure you get everything you need to build the glider.

Instructions for the Schwing build are found here and very similar:

Here are the basics components I purchased to complete the glider:
  • KST X10 Mini Servos for Ailerons and Flaps from Alofthobbies
  • Servo frames from Alofthobbies
  • KST M320 Servo for Rudder from Alofthobbies
  • MKS 75K-N for elevator in tail from Alofthobbies
  • Servo wiring harness from Alofthobbies
  • 2x2-56 shortened ball clevis for elevator ( I had some shortened ones left over from an Extreme Flight 3d build)
  • Threaded ends for carbon fiber pushrods to be glued on
  • Probably will use 2-56 metal clevises for aileron/flap servo arm linkages (plastic on exit)
  • K&S 2mm brass tube (this is used to insert into the ball clevis to support the steel elevator joiner for manipulating joiner
  • Goop for securing ballast tube to fuse (provides some flex)
  • Large servo covers for ailerons , pehaps also for flaps (large clear servo covers purchased from Flightcomp)

Some basic settings here:

I will figure out actual ballast later.
Last edited by funkyfreestyler; Nov 24, 2017 at 10:22 PM.
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Nov 16, 2017, 12:51 PM
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So I will be jumping around a bit but the first step on working on the fuse is to glue the rudder pushrod in the tail. This is important because if you are putting the elevator in the tail there isn't a lot of the room so you want to make sure the rudder pushrod clears. Also the position of the elevator servo will be somewhat at a strange angle, however I believe by using a ball clevis at both ends of the rudder linkage will allow me to get the servo in a little bit farther and get good geometry.

I used some gorilla glue epoxy and magnet and steel rod inserted into it to get the pushrod into position. I will glue the area towards the canopy later in the build. I used a plastic clevis and a threaded pushrod connector tightened fully to estimate where roughly the pushrod tube would need to end. I like to glue the canopy pushrod end first, and then trim and glue rudder pushrod end.
Last edited by funkyfreestyler; Nov 16, 2017 at 01:12 PM.
Nov 16, 2017, 02:34 PM
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Great idea for this thread! There are certainly many details that are worth covering.

Can you elaborate on your pushrod-to-rudder-horn connection? I have found that a regular clevis is too large to fit into the fairing, so you can only get about 10mm of throw on one side. I was thinking about just using an L-bend to go thru the horn, sort of DLG-like.
Nov 16, 2017, 04:22 PM
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I think the one thing you will have to do is open up the fairing slightly. Part of the reason for this is that the hole in the rudder brass horn is a little high, making the angle more tight. I believe LuckStrike did this a part of his build. I'm using an mpjet black plastic clevis and it appears to fit through but I have used L bends before and I believe Alex used L bend on his build. I am usually a bit pedantic about maxing throws but will probably not bother too much with them on this build. I will lightly sand the trailing edge of the vertical stab to get less binding. I will play with this more as I get closer to the finishing the fuse as it could be subject to change.
Nov 16, 2017, 05:33 PM
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So the main thing I'm not liking right now is the elevator pocket location. My servo horn on the smallest horn on with clevis rubs and is still and not a very good angle. Before I do that I'm going to try and make a shorter arm for the servo as I believe I have plenty of travel. If this doesn't work I am going to open the pocket up and using a spare servo cover with a bump slightly angled.
Nov 16, 2017, 08:38 PM
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The new setup with shortened servo arm, lower drilled hole and ball clevis works well and still provides full range of motion.
Nov 17, 2017, 12:15 AM
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So this is how it look in, but I have to solder in an extension that will go all the way to the front of the fuse. After I glue the servo in, I will tack in a balsa brace with ca that will help prevent servo from twisting loose.
Nov 17, 2017, 07:55 PM
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So this is how the elevator servo turned out:

Important note: turns out I made a mistake here. The brass tube that goes through the ball link to support the steel elevator rod should extend to sit flush with the elevator halves. I will retrofit with some brass spacers that forces this ball link to stay centered.

Stormbird elevator in tail (1 min 53 sec)
Last edited by funkyfreestyler; Jun 16, 2018 at 11:44 AM.
Nov 17, 2017, 08:06 PM
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So starting to work on the modifying the tray for the rudder servo. I'm going to paint it black and add a carbon fiber piece to block out elevator servo hole:.
Nov 18, 2017, 01:14 AM
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A video is worth a thousand pictures. It's really helpful to see this level of detail.

Nov 18, 2017, 11:16 PM
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Thanks Adam!

I didn't do much today as I was flying but I did use a file and bevel the edges for the male MPX connector which I like putting on the fuse and the female on the wing. What I will do is switch gears and the sort the MPX connector on the wings. I like to do the female on the wings first and then the male on the fuse second because it's much easier to fix or correct an issue on the fuse vs wing.

I have to do all this wing connector stuff first because I will need to route wires underneath the ballast tube. Normally I would do wings first and then fuse but in this instance I was waiting for some parts so I decided to start the fuse first.
Nov 19, 2017, 01:14 AM
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Why do wires have to go under the ballast tube? I was looking at mine today and the wires seem to fit just fine on top the tube. Fuse will be stronger if the tube is glued directly to it.
Nov 19, 2017, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by BillO View Post
Why do wires have to go under the ballast tube? I was looking at mine today and the wires seem to fit just fine on top the tube. Fuse will be stronger if the tube is glued directly to it.
This is good to know and to be honest I was dreading idea of having to do this per Schwing instruction manual. I like having access to stuff and you are right it will be stronger.
Nov 19, 2017, 09:40 PM
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Well I don't know what happened, but for some reason I cut off the rudder pushrod fairing. I guess I was frustrated with the pushrod binding on it and I already had it in my head that I might have to cut off the fairing.

Don't do it! I should have just cut off the piano wire I had glued into the end of the rod and put on a longer piece. I'm pretty sure that would have done the trick. Oh well...

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