CSD F-80 semi-sled build thread.... - RC Groups
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Nov 14, 2004, 10:53 PM
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Brandon's Avatar

CSD F-80 semi-sled build thread....

Hey all,

I decided to go ahead and do my first build thread. I had a couple kits laying around and I really wanna finish this CSD F-80. The wings will be sheeted w/ 1/32nd ply and the fuse is layed up like a baseball bat. The cores are standard air cobra cores that come w/ all the cobra's. I will glass the wings and tail sections. This will be my first attempt at glassing wings. so bear w/ me. I will try and keep the thread moving at a nice clip, but w/ limited building time there may be some gaps. Please feel free to chime in w/ questions and/or comments...constructive criticism is always welcome! Target weight is 75 ounces or more....

here we go!!!

Last edited by Brandon; Nov 14, 2004 at 11:09 PM.
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Nov 14, 2004, 11:04 PM
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Brandon's Avatar
The first step was to acquire some 1/32nd ply. I ran by aircraft spruce in corona and the guy told me all he had was some left over 1/32nd ply that was marked up during shipping. I said "whatta u mean marked up" ? He said "well, it has some ink markings on it". I said " I'll take it..how much" ? He says 5.00... lmfao.... that stuff is like 35.00-40.00 for a full sheet...so, off I go. All I am doing here is cutting the ply to the shape of the cores... You can see from the photos (maybe) that the fuse is rather heavy and has multiple layers of glass! nice work CSD!!!!

more to come...
Nov 14, 2004, 11:41 PM
Tryin not to be a hack!!
Aerobat152A's Avatar
Nice goin Brandon...... Looking forward to this build thread. Sounds like its gonna be a Slead alright. I also have that kit layin around, stock wing cores. I decided to build a 2nd heavier Aircobra so my lighter 30 ouncer that I build 4 months ago can have a heavier brother..... thats just my rationalization for havin 2!!!! So Ill get to my F-80 next.

Nice score on that 32nd ply!! Nice savings....LOL ... Target told me to go there to get some and since I started the other kit....didnt need the 32nd yet.

Is that a heavy lay-up fuse, or is it just a stout one? Mine seems pretty meaty also, but its just a regular lay-up fuse.... I think that shape just really lends some strength to it.

Good Luck!!
Nov 15, 2004, 12:14 AM
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Jeff Charlot's Avatar
I'll be interested in seeing how you glass the wings, what glass, what resin...etc.

Nov 15, 2004, 12:15 AM
Moderatee buncha places
Tawg's Avatar
The fuse Brandon has is a "Fermin" layup.

On the CSD F-80 you can get the fermin layup and build it regular and still end up with a ship in the low 40ies, it will just be stout though

Nov 15, 2004, 03:54 PM
Registered User
Nice find on the ply!

Ditto Jeff, looking forward to this build (gotta get me an F-80 one of these days...)

Keep the pics coming,

Nov 16, 2004, 09:33 PM
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Brandon's Avatar

let's continue...

ok, so in the first step we cut the plywood sheeting to fit the cores. Next, coat the cores and the sheeting w/ southern sorghum contact adhesive. you can find this stuff at your lhs. apply a thin coat of adhesive but make sure there are no bare spots.make sure you let the sorghum completely dry before you apply the sheeting to the cores!!!!! this will usually take anywhere from 25-35 minutes depending on ambient temperatures. after you get your skins applied, put the cores back in the beds and stack some weight to insure good contact! what a sunset tonight!! see pic's below!!

more to come...

Nov 16, 2004, 11:56 PM
plane obsessed
Cody WIlson's Avatar
Cool sunset!

Nov 17, 2004, 10:32 AM
Registered User
Nice sunset indeed!

I like the glass, that way you can see what's going on with the line-up of the beds. Next time you sheet a set of cores, try PU glue. I think you'll like it...

Looks good so far,

Nov 17, 2004, 11:03 AM
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TFLG's Avatar
Sorguhm works great. It's a contact cement so actually putting the cores back in the beds is not really required. Once the sheeting touches the cores it's stuck!. You really have to be carefull to get it lined up right. There is no pulling the sheeting back off once it touches the cores. To make sure it is stuck everywhere I use a small rubber roller and run that over the sheeting while applying a fair amount of pressure.

Nov 17, 2004, 03:42 PM
Registered User
Hey, great idea using the roller. Contact cement is aptly named for sure; there's no going back once contact is made. But I always wondered why do "they" always want you to clamp/weight the cores in the beds overnight or whatever after attaching the skins? Hmmm. Must be a conspiracy to slow the building process...

Nov 17, 2004, 05:16 PM
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Brandon's Avatar
I usually don't put the cores back in the beds when using sorghum, but since I wasn't going to do anymore building I thought it would'nt hurt...

more to come tonight!

stay tuned!

Nov 17, 2004, 06:34 PM
Ado's Avatar
I was rather impressed with the quality of the glass work on my CSD Aircobra.... it has set the precidence for other glass models I may get.. hehe very nice work.

I only used 3m77 and balsa on my wings.... im going for lightness...

Will be interested to see how yours turns how brandon... good luck with the build!

but dont do what I did.... leave the fuse on the belt sander and turn it on when you want to use the disc sander on the side of it.... WOOSH@ off goes to fuse... ahaha.... no damage done... but funny


Nov 17, 2004, 10:40 PM
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Brandon's Avatar

let's continue...

ok, so after the sheeting has had a chance to adhere overnight (not necessary), I sanded the sheeting flush w/ the cores on all edges. I applied a 1/2 inch basswood leading edge and a 1/8'' sub-trailing edge because I didn't have any aileron stock wide enough to just epoxy to the trailing edge. This may or may not be a problem when cutting out the ailerons out after the wings get glassed. I suspect not! Sorry for the slow progress, but I do work full time and have 2 young boys. I will have the next step completed tomorrow and maybe ready to glass these panels....

Nov 17, 2004, 10:53 PM
It could happen...
InTheLift's Avatar
3M can be an asset here. 3M the aileron stock onto the sub TE. Sand to shape, then glass the works. As long as you 3M the entire mating sufrace between the aileron stock and the sub TE stock, you should have little, if any epoxy seepage. You should be able to see the joint line through the cured glass. Cut through the glass on top and bottom an you're there.

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