Thread Tools
Nov 13, 2017, 06:17 PM
No Glow / No ARFs
Question

Sig Kadet Mark II COG


Does an electric Kadet Mark II tend to come out tail heavy or nose heavy? The Mark II tail can be lightened by opening up the solid and sheeted tail parts plus lightening holes in the sheet fuse sides. Is it worth the effort? I'd hate to go to all the trouble then have to add weight to the tail to get it to balance. All of my other .40 sized conversions have needed nose weight to balance.

I just picked up a Mark II kit at a swap meet and will build it with my usual mods to a .40 sized plane. Convert to tail dragger, bolt on wings, and aileron servos in the wing. This one may get mount points for floats. All of my .40 sized planes fly on 3S, 4000mAh. They include a Telemaster 40, Sig 4 Star 40 and TopFlite Elder.

Thanks
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Dec 04, 2017, 09:34 AM
Registered User

Kadet MarkII mods


I also just got a Kadet MarkII kit and planning modifications. Mine will have a Super Tigre 40, and at least bolt on wings if nothing else. I thought about adding separate aileron servos, and converting to a tail dragger as well. Also reducing the amount of dihedral a bit. Let me know what you come up with, and we can compare notes!
Dec 09, 2017, 05:42 PM
a.k.a. Pork Chop
propnutalan's Avatar
First of the year I'm going to build a Kadet MKII with an electric motor, bolt-on wings, 50% less dihedral, original Kadet straight tail (RC-31), and a couple of other possible mods. I'd also like to swap notes.

I soloed on a Kadet in the mid 80's (lost it in a crash 15 years ago) and always loved Claude's designs.
Dec 09, 2017, 06:36 PM
No Glow / No ARFs

Mark II Bolt on


I made a tracing of the plans with my idea for a bolt on wing. If I can get a decent picture I'll post it here. It will be a year before I build mine but it doesn't hurt to plan. My hope is to have it all figured out so I can just build and not stop to do engineering.

Conversion to tail dragger is a must for me because I always fly off grass. Because the one piece elevator extends behind the rudder I can't use my favorite Sullivan tail wheel bracket. I am thinking of using conventional pushrod to the rudder and pull-pull to the tail wheel.

Absolutely have to keep the Red-Black color scheme because those are my HS colors.
Dec 10, 2017, 05:48 AM
A man with too many toys
Quote:
Originally Posted by rail.bird
Conversion to tail dragger is a must for me because I always fly off grass.
That's a very strange statement. I fly off grass and have two trike gear airplanes that do very well. Either landing gear configuration will work perfectly well off grass.

.
Dec 10, 2017, 10:54 AM
a.k.a. Pork Chop
propnutalan's Avatar

Mods


Quote:
Originally Posted by rail.bird
I made a tracing of the plans with my idea for a bolt on wing. If I can get a decent picture I'll post it here. It will be a year before I build mine but it doesn't hurt to plan. My hope is to have it all figured out so I can just build and not stop to do engineering.

Conversion to tail dragger is a must for me because I always fly off grass. Because the one piece elevator extends behind the rudder I can't use my favorite Sullivan tail wheel bracket. I am thinking of using conventional pushrod to the rudder and pull-pull to the tail wheel.

Absolutely have to keep the Red-Black color scheme because those are my HS colors.
Once I decide to build a plane I think of the mods I want to do and get an idea of how I want to do it but it almost always changes (improves) as I build. For me this is the most fun part of the process of building.
Dec 10, 2017, 04:14 PM
No Glow / No ARFs

Grass


Quote:
Originally Posted by RC Man
That's a very strange statement. I fly off grass and have two trike gear airplanes that do very well. Either landing gear configuration will work perfectly well off grass.

.
Could be grass has nothing to do with it. I've had bad experiences with trike gears, nose gear not holding up well, steering problems so I switched to tail draggers and don't regret it. Personal preference.
Dec 10, 2017, 04:24 PM
No Glow / No ARFs

Re: Mods


Quote:
Originally Posted by propnutalan
Once I decide to build a plane I think of the mods I want to do and get an idea of how I want to do it but it almost always changes (improves) as I build. For me this is the most fun part of the process of building.
That is the way I usually build but sometimes it stalls the building process. Chances are quite good that no matter how carefully I plan, things will get changed as I build. None of the kits I've built have been completely stock.
Jan 02, 2018, 06:59 PM
a.k.a. Pork Chop
propnutalan's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by rail.bird
That is the way I usually build but sometimes it stalls the building process. Chances are quite good that no matter how carefully I plan, things will get changed as I build. None of the kits I've built have been completely stock.
I know what you mean about stalling out a build. I always change things as I go it seams including any of the initial planning, it is normally for the better. For me the Sig kits are fun to change. I'll be interested how your balance comes out when you're done
Jan 07, 2018, 10:12 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by rail.bird
Does an electric Kadet Mark II tend to come out tail heavy or nose heavy? The Mark II tail can be lightened by opening up the solid and sheeted tail parts plus lightening holes in the sheet fuse sides. Is it worth the effort? I'd hate to go to all the trouble then have to add weight to the tail to get it to balance. All of my other .40 sized conversions have needed nose weight to balance.

I just picked up a Mark II kit at a swap meet and will build it with my usual mods to a .40 sized plane. Convert to tail dragger, bolt on wings, and aileron servos in the wing. This one may get mount points for floats. All of my .40 sized planes fly on 3S, 4000mAh. They include a Telemaster 40, Sig 4 Star 40 and TopFlite Elder.

Thanks
Every little bit helps. The electric motor needed for your plane will be lighter than the equivalent glow but you will make some of it back with the battery pack. I have lightened fuselages and tail feather for planes and found it does help. Just remember : for every ounce over weight in the tail needs 3 ounces in the front.
COG should be on the main spar. I usually build the plane with the battery tray just behind the firewall. I have a Sig 4*40 but fly mine with a 4S pack so I never need to add weight besides it's more efficient to run the motor with more voltage than to try to get performance with a smaller pack and larger prop which in turn draws more current. I fly all my .40 size planes with a 4S pack. Sometimes I fly my Sig Kougar with a 5S pack .
Jan 07, 2018, 02:06 PM
No Glow / No ARFs
Quote:
Originally Posted by jollyroger
I have a Sig 4*40 but fly mine with a 4S pack so I never need to add weight besides it's more efficient to run the motor with more voltage than to try to get performance with a smaller pack and larger prop which in turn draws more current. I fly all my .40 size planes with a 4S pack. Sometimes I fly my Sig Kougar with a 5S pack .
Good point, I started with 3S when I switched from a 12 cell NiMH in '09 because it was the closest match in voltage and stayed with it. Most of my larger batteries are due to be replaced so it is a good time to switch to 4s.


Quick Reply
Message:

Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Discussion Sig Kadet Mark ii powerstroke01 Glow to Electric Conversions 0 Feb 17, 2016 01:01 PM
Build Log SIG Kadet Mark II-Electric_reconfigure aileron w/flaps rawUAV Glow to Electric Conversions 75 Aug 25, 2014 03:03 PM
Discussion Sig kadet Mark II conversion stoked6.0 Glow to Electric Conversions 8 Mar 28, 2011 09:01 PM
Build Log Sig Kadet Mark II =) gsumano Fuel Plane Talk 3 Jul 09, 2010 12:00 AM
Discussion Fixing a Sig Kadet Mark II - anyone with one have pictures? Raverix The Builders Workshop 1 Jul 07, 2010 08:09 PM