Tritle 60" PA18 Super Cub - RC Groups
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Nov 09, 2017, 11:18 PM
This is what 2 HP looks like
Rem Fodder's Avatar
Build Log

Tritle 60" PA18 Super Cub


At long last I'm finally able to get working on this kit which has been stowed under the bench for three years. I won't bore everybody about the usual stuff of how I like Cubs, especially Super Cubs, or the fact that I've never even flown in one before. So without beating about the bush any longer I'll get on with it. I'm going to apologize early to all that find this thread, that my builds move along at a glacial pace for anyone new to my take on model building. For those that suffered through the Guillows Fokker DVII build, I'll try to move this one along a bit faster.

I plan to follow Pat's guidance on the build as much as possible, and probably tweak the construction a little bit to strengthen the fuselage up around the landing gear, as my field is rough and bumpy. My thoughts are to make a shock absorbing landing gear, but we will revisit that notion at a later date as the build progresses.

As for the parts, the power comes from 2200 mah 2s Revo batteries. The motor is an E-Max GT2218/11 930 kv outrunner with an 11x6 Falcon wooden prop mounted in the photo. An APC prop will be used for the initial test flights. ESC is a switch mode 30 amp Skypower model. Servos are a combination of 8 gram E-Max nylon gear for the ailerons and flaps, and metal gear for the rudder and elevator. Wheels are from the E-Flite super scale PA-18. My radio gear will be a Specktrum DX9 with either a Lemon or Specktrum Rx on board.

That is it for now, hope to start construction within the week, or two or month. :-)
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Nov 10, 2017, 06:57 AM
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portablevcb's Avatar
Nice choice.

I am one who doesn't care for the J3 much but the Super Cubs and the PA12 are nicer candidates to me.

Good luck with the kit and please show details of where you add bits to it.

charlie
Nov 10, 2017, 09:48 AM
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Nov 10, 2017, 07:37 PM
This is what 2 HP looks like
Rem Fodder's Avatar
Thanks for dropping by Charlie and Jack.

One of the things that had crossed my mind was to substitute basswood for the lower fuselage framework, especially up in the cockpit area for the landing gear mounts and for whatever I can figure out for the battery bay. The plan was to start with the fuselage construction first, so once I start taking a more critical look at the drawings I will make up my mind then.

The motor I selected has an adapter plate for one end and protruding shaft the other end. Unfortunately the shaft cannot be reversed. In order to use the collet for the prop I would have to re-engineer a whole new motor mount to attach the motor from behind a mounting plate. In order to utilize the designed mount in the Cub, the adapter plate has to be bolted to the motor can. Which is fine, however when attempting to tighten the prop down the motor kept slipping as I held the prop like I normally would using a collet adapter. The prop nut would tighten if I held the motor can, but that kinda won't work once the cowl goes on. I removed the serrated face washer and allowed the prop to sit against the face of the adapter plate. Everything tightened up by holding the prop as I hoped it would. However, the opening in the cowl to accommodate the end of the motor will have to be cut to about 28 -30 mm so that the end of the motor can pass through. Not sure if a big hole in the cowl will detract from the Cub's clean lines or not?

Looks like I may have some time tomorrow to get things rolling, will see how the day unfolds.

Neil
Nov 11, 2017, 08:34 PM
Is it suppose to do that?
moscow580's Avatar
I am in.

Sean
Nov 12, 2017, 06:31 AM
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portablevcb's Avatar
Not sure if this applies to your prop adaptor.

I had some that would 'turn' on me. So, I filed two flats on opposite sides of the rear portion of the prop adaptor. I then made a 'wrench' from brass strip. Then I could hold the adaptor while tightening the prop nut. It work in some pretty small gaps over the years.

charlie
Nov 12, 2017, 01:08 PM
This is what 2 HP looks like
Rem Fodder's Avatar
Well my hopes of getting any work done on the project this weekend were dashed against the rocks as usual.

Charlie, I took some photos of the motor so you may see what is going on. Pictures are pretty self explanatory. With the washers in place the setup would make a nice a clearance between the prop and cowl of about 1/4". The downside is no possibility of tightening the prop with the cowl in place as the can of the motor must be held to properly tighten the prop nut. With the prop against the adapter the subsequent clearance hole will need to much larger,
Nov 12, 2017, 03:16 PM
Retired and Lovin' it!
TPfingston's Avatar
Neil, I thought that motor looked familiar.. I have a similar one, i.e. same brand/design, but mine is a GT2812/10. I've never used it. In fact, I've forgotten what plane I bought it for now. Interesting conundrum I/we have. I'm watching to see if you figure it out. Good luck. Sorry I'm no help at all.

Tony
Nov 12, 2017, 05:31 PM
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portablevcb's Avatar
Hmmm. Don't know how you feel about it, but, you could epoxy the washers to the adaptor. Maybe some less permanent glue could be used instead? Or a couple of sandpaper disks glued to the washers?

Just kinda thinking out loud.

charlie
Nov 12, 2017, 06:40 PM
This is what 2 HP looks like
Rem Fodder's Avatar
Charlie, the thought about using adhesive had crossed my mind, but gluing sand paper to the washers, now that is a good idea! What I was originally thinking was to use ca to bond the two washers together with the serrated faces outward. I suppose that in the end, might just as well bond the washers to the shaft.

I was looking at my wood stock on hand, and what I thought was basswood strip to use for the fuselage construction actually turned out to be spruce.


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