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Nov 09, 2017, 11:18 PM
Radio failure, my arse!
Rem Fodder's Avatar
Build Log

Tritle 60" PA18 Super Cub

At long last I'm finally able to get working on this kit which has been stowed under the bench for three years. I won't bore everybody about the usual stuff of how I like Cubs, especially Super Cubs, or the fact that I've never even flown in one before. So without beating about the bush any longer I'll get on with it. I'm going to apologize early to all that find this thread, that my builds move along at a glacial pace for anyone new to my take on model building. For those that suffered through the Guillows Fokker DVII build, I'll try to move this one along a bit faster.

I plan to follow Pat's guidance on the build as much as possible, and probably tweak the construction a little bit to strengthen the fuselage up around the landing gear, as my field is rough and bumpy. My thoughts are to make a shock absorbing landing gear, but we will revisit that notion at a later date as the build progresses.

As for the parts, the power comes from 2200 mah 2s Revo batteries. The motor is an E-Max GT2218/11 930 kv outrunner with an 11x6 Falcon wooden prop mounted in the photo. An APC prop will be used for the initial test flights. ESC is a switch mode 30 amp Skypower model. Servos are a combination of 8 gram E-Max nylon gear for the ailerons and flaps, and metal gear for the rudder and elevator. Wheels are from the E-Flite super scale PA-18. My radio gear will be a Specktrum DX9 with either a Lemon or Specktrum Rx on board.

That is it for now, hope to start construction within the week, or two or month. :-)
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Nov 10, 2017, 06:57 AM
Registered User
portablevcb's Avatar
Nice choice.

I am one who doesn't care for the J3 much but the Super Cubs and the PA12 are nicer candidates to me.

Good luck with the kit and please show details of where you add bits to it.

Nov 10, 2017, 09:48 AM
Registered User
Nov 10, 2017, 07:37 PM
Radio failure, my arse!
Rem Fodder's Avatar
Thanks for dropping by Charlie and Jack.

One of the things that had crossed my mind was to substitute basswood for the lower fuselage framework, especially up in the cockpit area for the landing gear mounts and for whatever I can figure out for the battery bay. The plan was to start with the fuselage construction first, so once I start taking a more critical look at the drawings I will make up my mind then.

The motor I selected has an adapter plate for one end and protruding shaft the other end. Unfortunately the shaft cannot be reversed. In order to use the collet for the prop I would have to re-engineer a whole new motor mount to attach the motor from behind a mounting plate. In order to utilize the designed mount in the Cub, the adapter plate has to be bolted to the motor can. Which is fine, however when attempting to tighten the prop down the motor kept slipping as I held the prop like I normally would using a collet adapter. The prop nut would tighten if I held the motor can, but that kinda won't work once the cowl goes on. I removed the serrated face washer and allowed the prop to sit against the face of the adapter plate. Everything tightened up by holding the prop as I hoped it would. However, the opening in the cowl to accommodate the end of the motor will have to be cut to about 28 -30 mm so that the end of the motor can pass through. Not sure if a big hole in the cowl will detract from the Cub's clean lines or not?

Looks like I may have some time tomorrow to get things rolling, will see how the day unfolds.

Nov 11, 2017, 08:34 PM
Is it suppose to do that?
moscow580's Avatar
I am in.

Nov 12, 2017, 06:31 AM
Registered User
portablevcb's Avatar
Not sure if this applies to your prop adaptor.

I had some that would 'turn' on me. So, I filed two flats on opposite sides of the rear portion of the prop adaptor. I then made a 'wrench' from brass strip. Then I could hold the adaptor while tightening the prop nut. It work in some pretty small gaps over the years.

Nov 12, 2017, 01:08 PM
Radio failure, my arse!
Rem Fodder's Avatar
Well my hopes of getting any work done on the project this weekend were dashed against the rocks as usual.

Charlie, I took some photos of the motor so you may see what is going on. Pictures are pretty self explanatory. With the washers in place the setup would make a nice a clearance between the prop and cowl of about 1/4". The downside is no possibility of tightening the prop with the cowl in place as the can of the motor must be held to properly tighten the prop nut. With the prop against the adapter the subsequent clearance hole will need to much larger,
Nov 12, 2017, 03:16 PM
Retired and Lovin' it!
TPfingston's Avatar
Neil, I thought that motor looked familiar.. I have a similar one, i.e. same brand/design, but mine is a GT2812/10. I've never used it. In fact, I've forgotten what plane I bought it for now. Interesting conundrum I/we have. I'm watching to see if you figure it out. Good luck. Sorry I'm no help at all.

Nov 12, 2017, 05:31 PM
Registered User
portablevcb's Avatar
Hmmm. Don't know how you feel about it, but, you could epoxy the washers to the adaptor. Maybe some less permanent glue could be used instead? Or a couple of sandpaper disks glued to the washers?

Just kinda thinking out loud.

Nov 12, 2017, 06:40 PM
Radio failure, my arse!
Rem Fodder's Avatar
Charlie, the thought about using adhesive had crossed my mind, but gluing sand paper to the washers, now that is a good idea! What I was originally thinking was to use ca to bond the two washers together with the serrated faces outward. I suppose that in the end, might just as well bond the washers to the shaft.

I was looking at my wood stock on hand, and what I thought was basswood strip to use for the fuselage construction actually turned out to be spruce.
Dec 09, 2017, 10:49 PM
Radio failure, my arse!
Rem Fodder's Avatar
At long last, after several false starts I was finally able to sit down for a couple of hours and devote some time to this build. One of the first things I wanted to accomplish was to make the wooden magnetic hold downs for my magnetic building board. So the bulk of time was wrapped up in turning a few out. They are cut on one end for holding down 1/8" stock, and after this build is over the hold downs opposite ends will be milled for 1/16" or 3/32" stock. In case anyone was wondering, the little pieces of maple were salvaged from the hammer assembly of an old piano with a cracked soundboard that could no longer hold a tune.

Sawdust at last! Last few weeks were spent contemplating how to strengthen up the fuselage around the landing gear hard points without adding a lot of unnecessary weight. So out came the last remnants of spruce 1/8"sq stock. Each piece was checked for deflection and the sturdiest ones selected for the bottom of the fuselage. Instead of butt joining the pieces around the gear area on the plans, I elected to create long scarf joints, see the photo. This will provide a lengthy long-grain glue joint which will be superior in strength . At the moment, I'm thinking of also using spruce to create the first vertical piece that the ply firewall attaches to the fuselage sides with. So that is it for tonight's efforts.
Dec 10, 2017, 09:59 AM
Registered User
REM, the wise man digs a ten-dollar hole to plant a one-dollar tree.

Or, in this case, invests in really GOOD build tools and gear to build a good really TRUE fuse frame.

But I wonder if that should extend to salvaging out a piano ... even for a Tritle bird!

Again, I reckon you are doing it all just right. Good on yer! If the Apocalypse comes, may I have your build-board setup?

Dec 10, 2017, 01:06 PM
Radio failure, my arse!
Rem Fodder's Avatar
Hi Jack, the piano had to go, it came by decree from the authority in the house, which isn't me by the way. :-) I took it to the barn and set about dismantling it, wood for burning, scrap metal to the wreckers. I actually thought that the wire in it would of use, but it was much softer that anticipated for model use. When I took out the hammer assembly there was all these pretty little wooden parts that I thought could find some use other than kindling wood. I've never looked into a piano that closely before, and must admit that they are quite the piece of engineering.

I'll see about the building board for you when the lights go out!
Dec 10, 2017, 01:38 PM
Registered User
REM, the wire tempers to taste. It really IS music wire.. just tempered for bendable, tensile strength rather than for stiffness and spring. Go ALL the way... and fly the whole instrument (or use it to make more flying instruments).

I regularly de-temper (anneal) music wire till soft and then retemper it after bending. Otherwise, the stuff breaks itself or my tools. Short pieces can be done in an oven or on a charcoal barbecue. And someone(s) amongst your farming neighbors knows ALL about how to do it with available gear. Almost all older farmers know that stuff to some degree. Also, think "drill stock in all sizes" for free!

For the more difficult steps, I get my wife to help -- because she has good colour vision. I don't. And that can be important in reading the reheating temperatures by colour changes..

Last edited by juanito; Dec 10, 2017 at 01:45 PM.
Dec 10, 2017, 02:01 PM
Radio failure, my arse!
Rem Fodder's Avatar
Oh yes, I've done my share of working metal. But that was mostly tool steels. Cherry red for hardening, if done by flame or a good soaking in a hardening kiln. When I was an apprentice I was flame hardening up a good size chunk of O1 tool steel, got it a little too hot, bright orange is definitely not good for quenching in oil. Especially when the witless apprentice plunges bright orange steel into oil then pulls it back out to only to set the oil bath on fire. Good thing there was a trash can style lid on the oil bucket with a step to open feature! Straw colour was usually the target shade for flame annealing, didn't want to see blue cause that meant the pieced was fed! Anyway, I've tried heating and annealing with model wire and usually make a mess of it. Most of the music wire in the piano was too small for much use, anyway its too late, got $15 for my troubles at the scrap yard with all the steel and cast iron sound board.

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