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Dec 10, 2004, 12:57 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlandis
Also notice the use of Dubro mini connectors. They are an indespensable part of my builds- they make the final servo adjustsments so much easier.
I've never used these (or other screw-type adjustments), because they look inherently problematic. I'm curious... what keeps the screws from coming loose? A good old z-bend at the servo arm and v-bend for adjustment on the wire is inherently safe and very easy to adjust with pliers (for me).
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Dec 10, 2004, 01:38 AM
Registered User
The screws stay tight just fine. It all depends on how well you tighten them. I've actually found that since the screws are steel and the connector housing is aluminum it's easy to overtighten them. That leads to the screw staying in even tighter but makes it difficult to remove.

They make adjustments very easy. I use them on all my planes. Never had one come apart in flight. Just make sure to check them out thoroughly before the maiden flight.
Dec 10, 2004, 04:05 PM
Registered User
I agree. I have never had a problem with the EZ connectors.
As far as the end pin Rx, I did not realize that was what I was getting when I ordered them. They just came, and too much hassle to return them.
Wet, rainy and muddy at the flying field today- no maiden yet.
Dec 10, 2004, 11:07 PM
Rocket Surgeon
intermision's Avatar
CAan you fit an 8 cell brick pack into it easily?
Dec 10, 2004, 11:23 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by intermision
CAan you fit an 8 cell brick pack into it easily?
If you look closely at Post #1, you'll see the inside of one half of the front of the fuselage. That center slot is the battery bay, and it can't even hold a flat 2/3 A pack without some rounding of the foam on the rear edge to allow the pack top be inserted from above through the cockpit opening. A brick pack that it 2 cells high would require removing all the foam between the battery bay and the lower cooling air slot! I wouldn't do it... but, it's probably possible... your choice!
Dec 11, 2004, 01:05 AM
Eye Drather Beef Lying
ElectRick's Avatar
It's best to decide what style/size battery pack you intend to use before you join the fuselage halves. That way you can cut out the battery area to fit while it's easy to do so.

Of course, this idea doesn't help if you've already glued it together.

I used a Kokam 3S 1500 LiPo in mine, and it's the perfect pack for this bird, IMO. It fits snugly into the battery slot, but only after you open the slot up a bit to get it to slide forward enough to balance with no clay. But it WILL balance...mine balances perfectly with the pack sticking out clear of the slot by about 1/2" inch or so.

Here's a trick I used to hog out the foam in the top of the slot a bit more after I'd already finished the build (I had opened the slot up some before fuse assembly, but it wasn't quite tall enough).
Take an old butter knife and bend the blade to about a 30-40 degree angle to the handle. Attach a strip of 60 grit sandpaper to the blade with a bit of rubber cement or spray glue and use it to sand out the slot to fit your pack. You could also add sandpaper on the bottom of the blade too, for the bottom of the slot, if necessary. Works great.

Rick
Dec 11, 2004, 06:53 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlandis
I agree. I have never had a problem with the EZ connectors.
As far as the end pin Rx, I did not realize that was what I was getting when I ordered them. They just came, and too much hassle to return them.
Wet, rainy and muddy at the flying field today- no maiden yet.
I have been following your thread and cant wait to see it in the air.Best of luck. I hope santa brings one for me for christmas.
Coillte
Dec 11, 2004, 09:56 AM
Linux addict
Ekim's Avatar
I hollowed out for the kan1050 and no structural problems there, but is pretty thin.
Dec 11, 2004, 05:51 PM
Registered User
To get a larger battery bay I hollowed out the whole front of the fuselage with a long carving knife. I epoxied a piece of lite plywood to the bottom of the inside of the fuselage and use velcro to keep the battery in place.

It helps keep the battery cool and it's easy to get large batteries in and out of the front cockpit.

I've never had a problem structurally. The landing gear get attached to another flat piece of plywood epoxied to the bottom of the fuselage. That probably adds a lot more strength than stock.
Dec 12, 2004, 06:40 PM
Rocket Surgeon
intermision's Avatar
I was just looking through my TM kit, and I was wondering if you have to drill out the prop to make it fit?
Dec 12, 2004, 07:06 PM
Lithium Member
Herb's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank
... they look inherently problematic... what keeps the screws from coming loose? ...
Locktite, CA, silicone glue, acrylic paint etc . Works just fine and is the most practical way of setting up cleanly these parkflier linkages.

Built mine in one evening and painted it the next (slope glider). About 30 flights on it, Himax 2025 5300 on 6.6 gb, 10x6 apc, Kontronic smile controller, Kokam 15C 2000 3S, ca. 180 Watts. Light aluminum struts.

.
Last edited by Herb; Dec 26, 2004 at 04:10 PM.
Dec 13, 2004, 12:00 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by intermision
I was just looking through my TM kit, and I was wondering if you have to drill out the prop to make it fit?
Yes. The EPS400 prop shaft is 4mm.
Dec 13, 2004, 03:28 PM
Eye Drather Beef Lying
ElectRick's Avatar
Odd. My supplied prop fit the shaft with no problems, without drilling.

Must be some variations in what prop goes into the kit boxes.

Rick
Dec 14, 2004, 08:07 AM
Glue can fix that.
Brutus's Avatar
depends on the prop.

I believe all the Slow flyer props are 3mm, and the other series such as the HD are 4mm.
Dec 14, 2004, 05:24 PM
Registered User
sa-10's Avatar
Herb, would you please post pictures of your aileron mod? Or a sketch?

Thanks


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