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Nov 05, 2017, 11:37 AM
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Discussion

Longshot build


I'm 80% done assembling my Longshot 4 - my first DLG.

Sorry for long post but if you can answer even one question it will be appreciated.

1) Do I press the boom fully onto the fuse and hope the thin CA wicks in or apply CA and then hope I can align the boom before the CA sets? I'm guessing the former but with such a tight fit am concerned that the CA will wick all the way. I heard epoxy is not as good for carbon.

2) Instead of the kevlar thread I wrapped FG around the horiz stab pylon and used CA. Is that sufficient?

3) I deduced that the horn for the rudder is the tiny one - why so short?

4) I already put the launch peg in the recommended location - was that a big mistake (per my reading)?

5) About how many degrees do you bend your fingers when holding the peg.

6) I have only flown 2 channel gliders. I am afraid of over controlling on my first 4 channel flight and crashing. Any advice for a a smoother transition from 2 ch? Maybe start with less aileron deflection?

7) When rudder is full deflection, the up aileron will be about twice the angle of the down aileron?

8) When landing I gather you want to plop down instead of skidding to a stop (to protect the fin)?

9) I can't find pictures of antenna wiskers - where do they go, what angle, made of what? How much of the antenna is external? (FrSky)

10) I suppose launch mode for the up elevator is triggered by a momentary toggle switch?

11) Any DLG pilots in north NJ care to assist?

Thanks!
Last edited by emachineshop.com; Nov 05, 2017 at 04:22 PM.
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Nov 05, 2017, 05:31 PM
Kyle Clayton
Wave Glider's Avatar
I had a LongShot 3, which for all intents and purposes is basically the same as the LS4. It was a great bird, a few times I've considered buying a LS4 just for nostalgic purposed Refer to this build log on the 2, and look at the modifications I made, specifically at post #156

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ot-2-DLG-Build
Latest blog entry: Helios and XXLite DLG
Nov 05, 2017, 06:31 PM
Registered User
Yes I came across your good log before ... checking ...
Nov 05, 2017, 07:34 PM
Kyle Clayton
Wave Glider's Avatar
Now I have some more time to specifically answer your questions,

1) Use epoxy, scuff the inside of the boom really well as well as the tenon on the pod with some good sand paper. Mix some 5 minute epoxy with some cabosil or microballons, put a good layer on the pod tenon, and then twist it on. Do this before installing the tails or the stab mount.

2) Fg wrapping the mount is fine, but really no extra wrap is necessary. With a good CA, if you scuff all the shiny finish off the boom, CA will hold the mount on good enough that it would destroy the boom to pull it off.

3) Short horn should be for elevator and long horn for rudder. Longer horn goes on the rudder to give more mechanical leverage to the servo on it.

4) You'll see in my post where to put the blade and how to do it properly.

5) shouldn't bend any degrees, just let the blade/peg sit comfortably on your index and middle finger tips. Unless you mean how much to offset the blade when installing it, in that case, it should be square to the hinge line of the flaperon, and then as far as tilt goes, it varies person to person, I install mine so that when the plane is positioned level, the blade would be perpendicular to the ground, which if the wing is flat on a surface, this will look like the top of it is slightly tilted outwards to the wing tip. Everyone is different here, do what feels best.

6) Biggest advice is keep it simple. You're on the right path about the ailerons, make sure you have enough throw to have good authority, but nothing too aggressive. In most cases, 10mm up and down is enough. If I remember correctly on my LS3 I had 10mm up and 20mm down throw on the ailerons.

7) Don't mix rudder with ailerons. Keep rudder on your left stick and ailerons on your right.

8) Yes when landing, we program the ailerons to both come down together on the throttle stick for landing flaps. This slows the plane down greatly and prevents damage on landing and is slow enough to allow for a hand catch. Skidding in is ok on grassy surfaces. Don't "dork" it in nose first, you may damage the pod. you can use quite a bit of down aileron for flaps, typically need more than 30mm for it to be effective, and you will need down elevator compensation to keep it from ballooning the nose up when you pull flaps.

9) again see my pics. Really you only need the exposed coax part (the shiny tips of the antenna) out of the pod, but it doesnt hurt to hang a little extra out. Don't worry about the angle, put bothof them out of the pod on opposite sides and you'll be fine.

10) that is correct

11) unfortunately I'm in VA, but there's great pilots all over!
Latest blog entry: Helios and XXLite DLG
Nov 06, 2017, 03:47 AM
Registered User
Thanks very much for the detailed reply!

3) Makes sense although the drawing shows the long one on the elevator. Actually I just found this which explains the pros and cons.
Last edited by emachineshop.com; Nov 06, 2017 at 03:59 AM.
Nov 07, 2017, 06:51 AM
Registered User
I will be transitioning from rudder-elevator only with both on right stick to a conventional DLG config. Am I correct that I should be able to fly with right stick only (aileron + elev) for the first few tosses until I can wrap my brain around two sticks? Will the plane respond somewhat similarly? In what way will it feel different? I just don't want to crash on my first flight after all the construction time!

Also, any advice on making the pull line detachable on a pull-spring setup?
Nov 07, 2017, 07:01 AM
Registered User
Basically yes. But the DLG will not return to level flight without aileron input to cancel the turn.
If you mix some rudder with the aileron input (50%) it will fly well on the single stick (Ail + Elev)

You can cut a slot in the back of the horn, then you have to flex the surface, and push the stick to get enough slack in the string to unhook it.
Nov 07, 2017, 01:07 PM
Registered User
Sensoar's Avatar
The Dlg's I have flown fly fine with elev and ailerons, rudder is optional and will make the turns more coordinated but it is not essential for flying.

Here is a picture of an Elevator horn that is detachable, see attachment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by emachineshop.com
I will be transitioning from rudder-elevator only with both on right stick to a conventional DLG config. Am I correct that I should be able to fly with right stick only (aileron + elev)

Also, any advice on making the pull line detachable on a pull-spring setup?
Nov 09, 2017, 08:56 AM
I build what I fly.
ibnjmn's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by emachineshop.com
Also, any advice on making the pull line detachable on a pull-spring setup?
A lot of people have had success with slotted control horns as shown above. An alternative that I used on my last 1m build was to crimp the pull-wire onto a tiny z-bend made of 0.5mm wire. So far I've found it reliable, but it seems to be a less popular solution. I think it does require a little more space between the hole in the boom and the control horn than the loop/slot method.
Nov 10, 2017, 05:10 AM
Registered User
Thanks for the additional tips.

Is 1/32" music wire sufficient for the aileron push rods?

Does anyone modify the aileron servo wires to break away in case of a crash where the wing comes off?
Nov 10, 2017, 01:25 PM
Registered User
Sensoar's Avatar
Excellent size for aileron push-rods I use .8 mm which is almost exactly the same.

Quote:
Originally Posted by emachineshop.com

Is 1/32" music wire sufficient for the aileron push rods?
Nov 10, 2017, 01:52 PM
Registered User
Sensoar's Avatar
Push rod size for 4 in the Pod of 1/32 or .8 mm is smaller than the push rods I use for top drive of 3/64 or about 1.2 mm
Nov 10, 2017, 06:05 PM
Registered User
Thanks.

For the aileron servo cables should I use a connector near the wing mount or a straight run up to receiver? If the later it seems a bit cumbersome to fish the cable thru the fuse each time the wing is mounted.
Last edited by emachineshop.com; Nov 12, 2017 at 07:01 AM.
Nov 12, 2017, 07:03 AM
Registered User
Instead of the steel wing bolt, would nylon be better so it shears in a crash?
Nov 17, 2017, 02:56 PM
Registered User
I am glad to see a LongShot4 thread. My first DLG. I too am working my way through the build. I started it in late summer I am to the point of determining how I want my servos and battery installed. I was contemplating going with a push spring setup instead of push rods. Then I got side tracked with some major home renovations. Perhaps now is the time to complete it.


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