ALZRC Fast Devil 505 Build Log - RC Groups
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Nov 03, 2017, 11:06 AM
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ALZRC Fast Devil 505 Build Log


As promised, Iím starting the build log for my new ALZRC Fast Devil 505. There are a couple of things I want to address up front to set the expectations for this build log:

1. This is a log of me building my D505. It reflects my building techniques based on my experience with many makes and sizes of helis. It is not meant to say this is the definitive path to follow when building a D505, itís just how I do it.
2. Iíd like to keep this thread focused on the build and any questions, comments, helpful building techniques or recommendations relating to it. You guys here on RCG are really good about this unlike other forums which is why we can have these discussions about ALZRC models. Iíd like this to be a historical record that others can refer to in the future and say ďTheir comments really helped me.Ē

Now, regarding some general building techniques:

1. I keep my workplace clean and organized throughout the build so I donít have to search for those little, tiny parts that come in the kits.
2. Iíve gathered all of the extra stuff needed for the build and have it on my workbench including grease(s), threadlocker, CA glue, solvent, paper and cloth towels, toothpicks and Q-tips, tools, tape, tie wraps, etc. Once I get started on a section of the build I like to keep going and not keep getting up to find this or that part or tool.
3. I always clean the metal screws and threads with solvent to remove any machining oil that may still be on them. I let them dry before applying a minimal amount of threadlocker. Personally I like to use the liquid threadlocker rather than the stick type because Iíve had good results with the liquid and Iíve read accounts where the stick type fails. I donít crank the screws down during assembly, I let them seat and turn them a little further until they are snug. Let the threadlocker do its job and youíll save many bolt heads from ďcheesingĒ out.
4. I always disassemble any components that come assembled in the kit, clean them, apply threadlocker where needed (blue and/or green), apply grease where needed and then reassemble the parts.
5. Keep the assembly manual handy. Iím old school and print out the manuals rather than looking at them on a computer screen. Thatís just me though, do whatever works for you but keep the manual handy for reference during the build. Having a paper manual also allows me to make some notes during the build.
6. Make sure that you test fit all parts first before fastening them down. Also, when fastening down multiple screws do so in a cross or ďXĒ pattern. For example, Iíll screw in the top right, bottom left, upper left and then lower right screws. Iíll start by setting them all in and then screwing them down so they lightly seat. Iíll then screw them down until they are snug. If you follow this cross pattern throughout your build youíll ensure that the parts are square and there is an even torque applied on the bolts and holes.
7. If you open a clear plastic baggie and donít use all of the parts inside it, make sure to tape that baggie closed so you donít lose any parts.
8. Take your time on the build and enjoy the process. Donít rush the build as youíre not in a contest. If you take your time and are careful in your build your new D505 will require very little adjustment on the first flight and should fly like a dream (thatís how it was on the D380 I built).

OK, itís time to talk about the ALZRC Fast Devil 505 kit:

ALZRC ships their product in a sturdy black box with a cool metallic red graphic on them. Inside the D505 box there are five smaller boxes containing all of the parts. A couple of the smaller boxes are marked ďAĒ and ďBĒ. These two boxes contain most of the CNC aluminum parts which are packed individually in sealed clear plastic bags with the part numbers on them. Thereís a long box that contains the tail boom, main rotor blades and some smaller parts. The largest box is where youíll find the canopy and the remainder of the parts. If you purchased the combo kit the fifth box will contain the electronics: motor, esc, servos and fbl controller. I bought the basic kit because I will be reusing some KST servos and purchasing a new MSH Brain2 fbl controller. I did buy the ALZRC motor and Hobbywing esc to use on this heli though. I suggest that you open each box and look at the parts that are inside so when you are building youíll know what part is inside each box.



Next installment: Building the frame.
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Nov 03, 2017, 11:19 AM
Registered User
Thanks for the patience of the assembly ..
Waiting for more information,
This is my next helicopter
Following your thread.
Nov 03, 2017, 11:26 AM
Grumpy old git.. Who me?
JetPlaneFlyer's Avatar
Looking forward to seeing the 505 come together. if I didn't already have far too many helis I'd be getting one myself
Nov 03, 2017, 11:42 AM
Registered User
Building the frame:

In the D505 kit, ALZRC packages most of the heli parts in sealed clear plastic baggies. On each baggie is a sticker that identifies what build step the parts are for. This is a very nice touch because you donít have to go searching for parts that are in one or two large baggies. Itís a little more costly for ALZRC to separate the parts by build step but itís a huge bonus for the builder. Each step in the build manual indicates what parts youíll need so just search for the baggie with the corresponding designation and pull it out. Because I am building the frame Iíll need baggies D505F-A-1 thru D505F-C-3.

The manual walks you through each step and if you take your time and read all of the notes in each step the frame assembles in a little more than an hour. Make sure that you sand down the sharp edges of the carbon fiber frames because they can cut through wire insulation over time. Iíve seen this happen and you donít want to find out about this during a flight when a servo grounds out.

The plastic battery tray is attached to the side frames with a number of screws. Pay attention to which holes they are going into as indicated in the manual because youíll be adding a few more in a later step for the landing gear. This is a good time to start using the ďcross or XĒ pattern when tightening the screws. I found that all of the screw holes in the frame parts lined up perfectly and I didnít have to make any modifications (like elongating a screw hole).

In Step 4 (they call it Chapter 4) youíll be adding a battery support strengthening bolt inside the frame. It may be a little hard to line up the ends of the bolt with the screw hole. After I inserted the bolt into the frame I lined up the bolt and the frame hole by inserting a toothpick into the hole. If I could push it inside the bolt I knew I was lined up correctly. The toothpick is soft wood so it wonít hurt the threads.

If you are going to be adding the stickers to the landing struts make sure to clean the struts off first to remove any skin oils (from your hands) and dust. This helps the stickers to adhere better and lay smooth.

I stopped the build once I completed the main frame and added the landing struts (Step 10).


Next installment: Starting with Step 11 Iíll be building up the main aluminum structure with the gear set and main rotor.
Nov 03, 2017, 04:21 PM
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subscribing
Nov 06, 2017, 05:16 PM
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Installment 3: Building the aluminum main structure

For this step youíll need all of the parts bags marked D505F-D-1 through D505F-E-6. They should all be inside Box A but if not, find them and set them out on your workbench. Weíll be starting in Step (Chapter) 11.

You have a couple of aluminum structures in the baggies that have bearings pre-installed by the factory. The first is the Main Structure that has two bearings, one for the main shaft and the other for the Secondary Torque Shaft. One of the photos Iíve included shows the two bearings on the Main Structure. You need to check these bearings to make sure that they are fitted snugly and wonít come out if pushed on. Turn the Main Structure over and try to push the bearings out. If they do, youíll need to clean off the outside of the bearing and the inside of the bearing seat on the Main Structure with solvent and dry it off completely. Then spread a small amount of green Loctite around the inside of the bearing seat so itís evenly spread. Not too much and not too little, you donít want any seeping into the bearing and you want just enough to hold the bearing once it dries. Push the bearing back into the bearing seat and wipe away any excess fluid.

When youíre satisfied that the bearings are seated correctly itís time to build up the Main Structure.

Steps 11, 12 and 13 are pretty self-explanatory in the manual so I wonít spend any time on them other than to mention to use the cross pattern when fastening down the bolts, especially on the Main Gear and the Main Gear Case.

On Step 14 youíll start building up the Swashplate Servo Mount. This structure also has a bearing that was factory installed so check it to make sure itís secure in its mount. Likewise, in Step 15 thereís another bearing that is inside the Main Shaft Bearing Block and you will want to check this one also. Once you have checked those components and youíre satisfied they are good itís time to assemble the entire transmission structure.

In Step 16 youíll need to fit and check, and then fit and check again to make sure there is no slop or looseness in the drive components. Only add the blue Loctite once youíre absolutely sure that youíve got the gaps out of the components and there is no friction in the moving parts.

There are a couple of small 8x14x0.2 washers, or shims, for the Secondary Torque Shaft/Main Helical Gear and two larger 10x16x0.1 shims that can be used on top of the Main Shaft Block Ring. Try assembling everything, including cinching down the Swashplate Servo Mount and the Main Shaft Block Ring with the bolts, without the shims first and see if you can move the Main Shaft and Secondary Torques Shafts up and down. If either one or both move up and down then youíve got a small gap that needs to be eliminated. Add a shim where needed and then cinch everything down once again. Check for movement. If there is no movement of the shaft then youíre fine. If the shaft still moves up and down youíll need to add another shim.

Once you have removed the gap you should be able to spin the shafts quickly and they should continue to spin for a few more turns. Youíre checking for friction here. If your shafts are binding somewhere youíll need to disassemble the structure to see where the friction is coming from. Once you are satisfied with everything then itís time to use blue Loctite on the bolts for this assembly.

Youíre on to Step (Chapter) 17 and the Motor Pulley. This unit also comes pre-assembled by the factory and itís a good idea to check the fitting of the bearings. If they are loose, remove and clean them then reassemble them with a light use of green Loctite. In this step you should also grease the One Way Bearing. Use your favorite type of grease or oil for this, some guys use bearing grease and others use Automatic Transmission Fluid. Whatever you do, DO NOT USE WD-40 here because it can attack the plastic gear and youíll have a disaster sometime later when youíre flying.

Assembling the Front Tail Pulley is pretty self-explanatory so once youíre done there you are on to the Main Frame Assembly in Step (Chapter) 19. There are two important things you have to be aware of during this step. First, there is a right way and a wrong way for the Motor Pulley to go onto the Secondary Torque Shaft. Look closely at the Motor Pulley from the side and see which side is the narrow end; that side is up and fits against the bearing. The second item is to make sure you add the small shim between the Motor Pulley and the Front Tail Pulley as shown in the diagram for this step. Add Loctite on the bolts where indicated and now youíre ready to insert the entire assembly onto the frame (Step 20).

Itís starting to come together and in the following installment Iíll be setting up the servos and installing them on the heli.
Nov 21, 2017, 05:56 PM
Registered User

Setting Up and Installing the Servos


After a delay due to work travel and needing a part that was missing in the build (more on that later) I am back to writing about the Devil 505 build. In this installment Iíll be discussing the servo installation.

Once the servos get installed there is little real estate for you to try to work around setting up the servos so itís a good idea to set up your servo arms properly now, before installing them on the heli. This means that youíll need most of your electronics including receiver, sats, fbl controller, all of your servos and your transmitter. I started out by setting up a new model in my transmitter and then binding two Spektrum sats to the transmitter. Since Iím using a MSH Brain2 I can bind the sats while they are attached to the fbl controller. While Iím working with the fbl controller I can also set up the model parameters in the Brain 2 software (model type, blades, esc, motor, etc.) and also identify my servo manufacturer and model along with the servo frequency and pulse rate. Itís important to do this before actually connecting the servos to the controller so you donít burn them out or over drive them. Once youíve got this data entered, save it and then turn off your system.

I mark my cyclic servos with the numbers ď1Ē, ď2Ē and ď3Ē so they correspond to the pitch and roll servos in the Brain2 system. If you look at the diagram in Step 25 of the D505 build manual it identifies Servo 1, Servo 2 and Servo 3. This placement is different than how the Brain2 software identifies 1, 2 and 3 and I felt it was wiser to set them up as directed in the Brain2 system since that is what will decide which is the pitch servo and which are the roll servos.
After powering off I connected my servos to the appropriate ports on the Brain2 unit and energize the system. I then moved my collective stick to 50% and made sure all of the servos were moving. Now that you are at mid-stick you can install the servo arms on the servo output shafts. The arms should be installed so they are as close to the long axis of the servo body and parallel. The servo arms will move up and down giving you a full range of motion.
Itís pretty likely that the servo arms wonít be that close to the center so youíll need to access your fbl controller software and use the appropriate command to center each arm. The nice thing about following this process is that it gives you a much better chance to center each servo so they are all the same. This helps later on when you are checking the swashplate for level.

Follow this same procedure for the tail servo making sure that the servo arm is upwards at mid-stick, its travel will be left and right.
If you havenít done so already itís time to install the link balls on each servo arm. Note the distances between the center of the link ball and the center of the servo output shaft for the cyclic servos are 16 to 18mm and the tail servo is 15 to 17mm.

When all of your servos are set up correctly itís time to mount them into the frame starting with the tail servo in Step 22.

In Step 24 youíll be installing the servos onto their aluminum mounting brackets so make sure that you get their orientation correct. As usual, I made sure to soak the screws in solvent to clean them first before applying a small amount of blue Loctite. After you have built up your three cyclic servos you can proceed to Step 25 where youíll affix them all to the servo mount bracket.

Wow, a lot of work but itís all super important and will make your tuning easier. From here our next stop will be building the swashplate and the rotorhead.


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