Sunnysky X2216 1250KV, mounting props - RC Groups
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Nov 02, 2017, 07:57 AM
Registered User
Discussion

Sunnysky X2216 1250KV, mounting props


Hi, I've searched on Google and the forums but couldn't find any up to date info. Actually I've found some answers where people gave links but the links are all dead, so I can't see the products .

So, I have this motor which has 3.7mm shaft according to spec. I'll use it on a pusher plane. What kind and size of prop adapter and prop will fit to this? All I could find have either 3mm or 4mm.

Thanks in advance.
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Nov 02, 2017, 10:28 AM
An itch?. Scratch build.
eflightray's Avatar
According to a few adverts, the shaft size is 3.175mm diameter.

Do a search on - 3.175mm prop adapters --
Nov 02, 2017, 10:48 AM
Old's Cool
Either use the bolt-on prop adaptor that came with it or purchase the compression type adaptor that is available for it. Buddy RC carries a pretty complete line of the Sunny Sky products and I just confirmed that they have both types of adaptor available for that motor.

As to what props, that depends on your application, but a 9x5 and 10x4.7 will work on that motor maxing out at about 30 amps on 3S Lipo.

I think eflightray is correct about the size of the shaft as well based on my actual measurements (3.16").
Nov 06, 2017, 08:56 AM
Jack
jackerbes's Avatar
3.175mm is 0.125" or 1/8", that motor comes with the shaft extending from the base plate end and a bolt on prop adapter as I see it here:

https://www.banggood.com/es/SunnySky...-p-988393.html

So to fit a collet type prop adapter would require reversing the shaft. Some shafts will need a new groove for the Circlip and a flat or two for the grub screws in a new location. You can see how to do that here:

Making-and-Replacing-a-Brushless-Motor-Shaft - https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1240725

I prefer to use prop savers and prop saver bands cut from Thera- Band instead of O-rings, the details on that are here:

Prop-Savers-Fitting-Using-Testing-Making-Thera-Band-Bands - https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1419378

Disassembly hints here:

Outrunner-Disassembly-and-Stripping-Gimbal-Motor-Rewind - https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1823636

Jack
Nov 09, 2017, 12:02 PM
here is the adapter:
Nov 09, 2017, 04:04 PM
Jack
jackerbes's Avatar
Those are great images, everyone that sells motor should use something that good.

For neoberg, the bottom line is that when you have a motor that has the shaft on the baseplate end and that comes with a bolt on prop adapter like that with a 5mm shaft for the prop mounting you are able to use it either way (through the firewall with the shaft or on the firewall with the adapter).

As far as the size of the hole in the prop hub, some come with a larger hole and adapter rings to size them down to fit on 4mm, 5mm, or 6mm shafts and even some adapter rings for non-Metric shaft sizes.

And places like Maxx Products and Head's Up RC can fix you up with the collet type and other adapters that will grip that shaft and mount a prop.

Jack
Dec 08, 2017, 12:03 PM
Master Prop Breaker
I have plenty of experience with these motors. Great motors IMO! Well balanced, plenty of power. The 2216 1250kv on 4s with a 10x3.8 prop puts out tons of thrust, even better on 5s! As Jack stated, use the collet type adapters vs set screw type adapters if mounting to the 1/8" shaft. Oh, and prop savers rule! You'd be suprised at how well they work, Ive used 11x4.7 props with a prop saver, hundreds of hardcore 3D on a big foamy, never had a failure. Jacks theraband trick works great, I bought 30' of the stuff, just watch for UV damage from the sun.

There is also a quality difference in prop adapters. I bought a bunch of 1/8" collet adapters from Amazon, 5 pack for $1.99, I bought 4 packs. They were absolute junk! I figured a prop adapter is a prop adapter, just some threaded/machined aluminum. No, compared to my expensive E -flite adapters from almost 15 yrs ago the Amazon one were weak, off-center, crappy machining and threads galled/snapped easily.

Also, make sure to use locktite blue for mounting the motor and make sure the 3mm screws aren't too long, one nick on the windings usually ends up with a smoked motor and or ESC. Before I got into quadcopters I went years without using locktite for mounting motors on my planes. I know better now, I also learned to cut off the motor lead bullet connectors. Even though Sunnysky supplies quality connectors I now just solder directly to the ESC, just one less chance for failure. I guess with planes it really doesn't matter as much though.


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