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Feb 05, 2018, 07:37 PM
Hugh Blackburn
floquet's Avatar
I started with a 500 mAh 1S battery right up the front and servos behind but it came out a little nose-heavy (68mm) with KST 08 servos (I am aiming for 70mm). Will retrofit a 400.

Here are a couple of suggestions (some for VM )

1. If you use KST08s and "Armsoar" pulleys for the tail servos, you may find the tail throws are a bit marginal (especially rudder, which will only give around +/- 10mm throw with the supplied rudder horn/hole). I re-drilled the rudder horn hole inboard another 3mm and could get +/- 13mm rudder throw. (Original Snipe1 used to have two holes in the horn.)

2. With KST08 on flaps: The initial assembly set-up flap deflection with zero servo deflection is around 14.5mm (not shown in the manual). Also, the clevis pin is 1.6mm (1/16") diameter - you will need to re-drill that hole in the horn.

3. VM could consider putting in some carboline patch material to anchor the flaperon axles, as they tell you to use, as this is not in everyone's spare box. Of course, a glass patch works just fine.

4. IMHO VM should strongly consider supplying the plastic ballast system front anchor in the kit, like they did with the original Snipe. I really find it annoying to have bought such a complete (and let it be said, expensive) kit that does not contain this part.
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Feb 06, 2018, 07:26 PM
launch low, fly high
#3 & #4 suggestions are very good points Hugh. I will be seeing Vladimir in a day or two and will pass along these suggestions . I agree with you on these BTW. The happy news is that I will be getting my first Snipe2 aircraft when I see Vladimir so that I can do my own evaluation and comparison.

For your #1, that one is a personal installation thing in regards to the integration with the Armsoar pulleys. Having 2 holes on the other hand, that makes some sense. In the past, I've used longer servo horns and the outer hole so as to minimize the spring induced hinge loading. There are benefits and detractions to both methods. Having multiple holes in the control horn makes sense to accommodate alternate style installations.

For your #2, Vladimir has shown the servo arm deflection for zero surface deflection on page 12 of the manual. It does make sense to also have the control surface deflection listed for zero servo arm deflection as well. The worry on this is in regards to people that use non-standard servo control arms. Hard to make an absolute recommendation here...

So, I'd say the action items are:
1) add another hole in rudder horn
2) label control deflection with 90 deg servo arm position on first pic on pg12 of manual
3) add carboline bit to kit (thought he had been doing this on recent Snipe1 kits)
4) push for plastic bit to be standard in kit supply bag

Thanks for your feedback. Looking forward to having my own Snipe2 in a few days...
Feb 07, 2018, 01:14 AM
Hugh Blackburn
floquet's Avatar
On point #2 I think that adding the dimension is kind of redundant since it corresponds to the illustrated 90 degrees with the Allen key on the flap horn. However it is useful: the point of listing a dimension as well is that it's hard to keep checking 90 degrees on the Allen key while setting up if you only have one Allen key to hand (I glued both clevises to the pushrods in one operation because there is no way I would use anything other than long-cure epoxy for such a critical joint -- if one uses CA then I guess you could do one, then the other, and only need one Allen key).

The dimension (and Allen key angle) are independent of the servo arm length since they are measured at zero servo deflection near the middle of the flap travel.

If you come by a couple of spare plastic inserts when you see Vladimir I know some people here who could use them.
Feb 08, 2018, 06:35 AM
launch low, fly high
I talked to Vladimir about the plastic inserts. He recalled the original ones due to the potential for them to slide too far into the fuselage. He retooled and made an updated version and has recently sent a supply of the updated version to all distributors that received any of the initial Snipe2 kits.

Update: I just talked with Vladimir now and persuaded him to supply at least one plastic insert with the standard kit.
Feb 08, 2018, 11:34 PM
Hugh Blackburn
floquet's Avatar
Great - the system works.
Feb 20, 2018, 12:25 PM
Finished mine. It is a UHM standard version and came out at 226 grams, including about 3g of lead in the nose. I used Futaba 3154 servos as I always have with Snipes. So if you go with standard X08 or MKS you might not need it, as the servos I chose are a tad bigger I couldn't slide them as far forward as you could with others. But the final AUW is fine anyway. Battery is a 1s 600mAh and behind the servos, Rx a Futaba 7006 at the very front of the nose.

I find the build to be slightly easier than the previous versions of the Snipe. The new aileron horns are definitely a step forward in my opinion and the aileron linkage is now practical and straightforward. Servo placement was a bit tricky for me, as mentioned before due to the slightly bigger type of servo I chose. I couldn't really follow the distance values between servo horn and fuselage given in the manual, but one can make it work anyway. The only thing to look out for is to make sure the ball link of the aileron linkage moves freely before you glue the clevis onto it, as you can't remove it as a whole easily again. The pan on the ball link in my case did not move freely at the beginning at all, it was almost stuck and hard to move with fingers even. Some gentle squeezing with pliers after assembling the ball link helped a lot.

I quite like the neon lime color, it really pops against the carbon. I have no flight report yet, and I think I do one when I have significant stick time on it. The wing, tail arm and the tails are the same as before, so I dont expect handling characteristics to be greatly different. We'll see.
Mar 12, 2018, 01:45 AM
Hugh Blackburn
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Hi Thomas. Nice and neat! But tell me - where did you put the antenna wire(s)? Assuming the front end (other than the nosecone cover) is carbon, which as far as I know, it is, you may get some signal blockage depending on orientation of your model. I went to some trouble to avoid that as much as possible, see picture - antenna on the other side is at 90 degrees to the one shown.

I'm almost ashamed to show anyone my picture after your nice neat job!
Mar 12, 2018, 04:59 AM
Registered User
Thomas Wang's Avatar
Originally Posted by floquet
Hi Thomas. Nice and neat! But tell me - where did you put the antenna wire(s)? Assuming the front end (other than the nosecone cover) is carbon, which as far as I know, it is, you may get some signal blockage depending on orientation of your model. I went to some trouble to avoid that as much as possible, see picture - antenna on the other side is at 90 degrees to the one shown.

I'm almost ashamed to show anyone my picture after your nice neat job!

I was thinking to test your way to place the antenna, but need to test it first, if it works not so good, I'll guid the antenna out of the fuselage, the image shows my thought.
Mar 12, 2018, 06:18 AM
Hugh Blackburn
floquet's Avatar
That could be blocked by wing e.g. when diving on landing approach. Does that receiver have just one antenna? My experience suggests that’s not good enough when there is so much carbon to avoid.
Mar 12, 2018, 06:29 AM
Registered User
I am running the antennas on my Snipe SNT like Thomas is suggesting in his drawing.

The slant downwards and back.

Never had a range issue.
Mar 12, 2018, 08:05 PM
Hugh Blackburn
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Yes but (a) you can get out of the fuse forward of the wing on an old Snipe (no longer possible) and (b) you are using two antennae.

(I have also done what you say and had no problem on Snipe 1.)
Mar 13, 2018, 05:06 AM
Registered User
I am using the Graupner GR12 receiver with a single antenna.

The antenna exits the fuselage about 15mm behind the leading edge on the side of the fuselage.

There is a small piece of plastic tube glued in the hole in the fuselage to guide the antenna back and down and to stop the carbon from cutting the antenna.

I have had zero range problems since doing this.
Mar 13, 2018, 09:27 PM
Hugh Blackburn
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To each, his own. The trouble with range problems is that you just need one occurrence to destroy your plane or your score and it can happen without a lot of warning even after things seemed to be working fine. Just sayin'
Mar 13, 2018, 10:52 PM
Registered User
We tried lots of different layouts for the antenna over the years.

We have been using this setup in Blaster 3, 3.5, Smile and Snipe for a long time and thousands of flights.
We have flights of over 300m high with zero problems.

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