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Sep 08, 2019, 11:24 AM
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After looking at the way the CR-10 printer board is mounted in the controller case I realized I need a way of mounting my Beaglebone Black properly. I had to go with a two piece design. I'm mounting the Beaglebone Black to a mounting plate, then attaching that to a plate that is attached to the controller case with the original mounting points.

I found that if I had one plate, there was no way to attach the Beaglebone Black to the plate after the plate was mounted in the case. There is no way to access the screws to attach the Beaglebone, other than to remove the Replicape, which isn't as easy as it sounds. It's easy to remove the Replicape, it isn't easy to remove a Replicape without bending its header pins.

I added threaded inserts rather than tapping the plastic. It adds a little work but provides threads far stronger than what you'll get by tapping plastic. I heat the inserts with a propane soldering iron and push them into the holes. After they cool I run a drill and tap through them to remove any plastic that ends up in the threads, and there's usually some. I taper the hole they go in to ensure there's enough plastic to properly secure the insert.

I also soldered KF2510 connectors on the Replicape. These aren't the 90 deg connectors that I removed. The straight connectors will avoid potential clearance problems with the side of the case.

I also have an idea for some JST-XH to KF2510 adapters.

I had to shift the Beaglebone Black toward the rear of the controller enclosure due to the ethernet cable connection on the side toward the fan. I needed clearance for the cable and that seemed like the best way to go about it. Once I fit it, I might be able to shift it further back if there is a problem. I have 90 deg cables that would work, they're too short, but I have an adapter that would solve that too.

I have an adapter mount to print yet for the mosfet board I bought, then I can start looking into the wiring and make connector adapters.
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Sep 08, 2019, 12:03 PM
Registered User
This is what I'd mentioned about having an idea for a JST-XH to KF2510 connector adapter.

It involves crimping the female pin insert on the pin for the JST-XH connector. It will then be soldered. I'll also glue the two connector housings together.

One thing I just realized is that there are a few places where the JST-XH connector might be too wide, such as the problem I had with the JST-XH connectors when I went to solder them to the Replicape board. I'll have to make a few adapters that have wires to extend them beyond an interference point. I think there are only a few places where that is a problem.

I'll also have to cut off part of the KF2510 housing (the tan one). With the female pin insert soldered to the pin on the JST-XH connector, it won't extend into the KF2510 housing far enough to lock it in place on the retainer. I think about .1" (2.5mm) removed from the end should be enough to solve that problem.

I also have to verify wiring to make sure that these adapters are correct. I could make them 180 deg out of alignment. I'd have to adjust all the wires in the original JST-XH connectors on the printer if that were the case. Not the end of the world, just a time consuming, and at that point, annoying task.
Sep 18, 2019, 06:26 AM
Registered User
I wanted to make all the JST-XH to KF2510 adapters prior to pulling the existing board out of the controller, but decided to wait. I can't determine with any amount of certainty the wiring on the CR-10 will match the orientation of the connectors, so I'll have to wait until I can confirm it.

And I also found the board mount will not work due to it being too long. The new board will interfere with a fan in the rear of the controller housing, so I'm going to have to print another one. I'll be shifting the location of the computer back over the screw pattern for mounting the base plate to the controller case. It is just too far offset toward the rear of the case.

Something else I'll have to address at one point or another is a touch screen. As it is now, the only way the printer can be controlled will be through the laptop (or whatever) I'll use to communicate with it. I never bothered with LCDs on single board computers, because it seemed somewhat ridiculous. None of the ones I use even had desktops installed. They seemed like a big waste of resources and unnecessary. This is the first practical use of a screen I've come across for a project for one of my Beaglebone Black SBCs. Looked around a bit, haven't decided on anything yet.

I think I'll remove the existing LCD once I replace the controller board. I'll gain a bit of space and will be able to offset the fan too.
Sep 21, 2019, 10:05 PM
Registered User
I altered the mounting plate for the Beaglebone Black today, and I think the location is going to work. Had to remove the LCD screen due to interference with the larger fan I'm adding. I've had some extra Noctua fans from other projects for over a year, thought this would be a good use for them. I might replace the fan at the back of the controller case too, although it's probably not needed now as the case won't be sealed and that big fan will move far more air than the two that were originally in the case combined.

While most would already recognize this, the picture is with the bottom of the controller enclosure removed while it's flipped over.

I'll start sorting out the wiring tomorrow. I don't think the wiring for the CR-10 matches up particularly well with the Replicape, so I'll probably be using a continuity tester to make sure I have it right. What I mean about that is it doesn't look like the wiring for the motors on the CR-10 controller is consistent with how the Replicape is set up. The wiring for the new power supply looks fairly straightforward, not too worried about that. The stops I haven't looked at yet. Luckily the JST-XH connectors that plug into the components on the printer allow for the wires to be removed and reordered...well, the motors can be, haven't looked at the stops or much other than the motors at this point.

I need to check the Beaglebone Black to see if it is an early model with only 2GB of flash or one with 4GB. I believe it's a 4GB, if not, I'll use one of the other ones I have. I'll probably have to pull it out of the controller enclosure to insert the micro SD card...or maybe not. I have an extension that would work if I can get it seated. Once the OS is installed the only interface I'll have with that board is via the network. I'd go WIFI, but there's really no point as it's located right next to a small rack with my network/server stuff. I found a port on the VLAN I was planning on using on my switch so the networking is good to go.
Sep 22, 2019, 07:03 PM
Registered User
I got the 24V power supply wired, and started to get into the various components like the stepper motors and stops. The stops on the CR-10 don't use three wires, whereas the Replicape does, so I have to make some. Found that I don't have anything here that I can use so I ordered some 18ga, 20ga and 24ga, which will be here on Tuesday.

I'll have to check the stops to see how they're wired. Not a big deal, it just takes some time.
Sep 23, 2019, 01:27 PM
Copper Copter
Sorry if you already mentioned it:
Is it much more silent an 24V?

I will make the conversion but still missing some parts.
Sep 24, 2019, 10:56 AM
Registered User
Copperlodide -- I'm not aware of how a 24V system would be any more quiet than a 12V. Most of the better power supplies I checked out were 24V, and overall they just seem like a better option. Amp throughput on a 24V system is half what a 12V system is. Wiring requirements are more extreme when using 12V as you're pushing higher amps.

I gained 25% capacity by going from a 12V 30 amp PS that was stock on the CR-10 Mini to the Mean Well 24V 18.8 amp I'll be using.

Really, the 12V power supplies (although I wonder about the one I pulled out of my CR-10, it doesn't seem like it's very robust) are fine as long as you have a quality one from what I've learned through all the articles I've read recently.

I'm hardly an EE. I try to read as much as I can.

There are several little things that can add up. I thought it was worth it.
Sep 27, 2019, 02:13 PM
Registered User
I pulled the Beaglebone Black out of the case and started to get it set up. I was thinking I might just leave it as is and install the cape software on it, but I couldn't remember the users/passwords I had on it so I set up an install image on an SD card and wiped it.

I then proceeded to do a few things that worked, and one that definitely didn't.

I kind of wandered across dependency hell, where the python installed on the Debian image was not as current as the requirements for the Remedy software that's needed to control the printer. I pulled the software from the github repo, saw errors during compling, and upgraded some of the modules installed via pip, and at the time didn't realize that the modules were actually installed via packages in apt -- so that kinda hosed a few things and it's way easier to start over than fix that mess.

Python modules are about as much fun as Perl modules. They aren't. To be fair, I don't mess around with python that often, and I figure out what I need to do after becoming reacquainted with pip.

I was carefree knowing that if I b0rked this I could get back to where I was easily enough. I'm not sure if there is a Remedy package available from a repo for Debian, but even if there was, it would be a release or two behind where it is now as more recent versions couldn't be installed because the various software/library requirements couldn't be met.

I'll figure what I want to do. I tried the easy way. Looks like I'll have to pay attention this time. heh

The BB Black has some pretty intense LEDs on it. This one is a version *after* they dimmed the LEDs, or I think it is. It's still fairly obnoxious, but it'll be in a case so it doesn't really matter.

I added stacking headers between the cape (auxiliary board) and the Beaglebone Black. I figured this would provide some space between the boards to improve airflow. Added heatsinks to everything too, including the motor drivers.

I'll need to figure out how to turn off the programming aids they enable by default. There's some services that run by default for which I have no need. They're a waste of resources for my use.

oooohh...blinky lights....
Sep 29, 2019, 01:54 PM
Registered User
Well, it might be safe to say my foray into compiling the software for the Replicape isn't going to work quite the way I wanted. I did a few things that are what you might consider the way you'd do it if you're not really researching what should be done.

This pretty much put the nail in the coffin:
arm-linux-gnueabihf-g++: internal compiler error: Killed (program cc1plus)
Please submit a full bug report,
with preprocessed source if appropriate.
See <file:///usr/share/doc/gcc-6/README.Bugs> for instructions.
error: Setup script exited with error: Command "arm-linux-gnueabihf-g++ -pthread -DNDEBUG -g -fwrapv -O2 -Wall -g -fdebug-prefix-map=/build/python3.5-QMv3zq/python3.5-3.5.3=. -fstack-protector-strong -Wformat -Werror=format-security -Wdate-time -D_FORTIFY_SOURCE=2 -fPIC -D__STDC_FORMAT_MACROS=1 -Iscipy/sparse/sparsetools -I/home/printer/redeem/lib/python3.5/site-packages/numpy/core/include -I/home/printer/redeem/include -I/usr/include/python3.5m -c scipy/sparse/sparsetools/bsr.cxx -o build/temp.linux-armv7l-3.5/scipy/sparse/sparsetools/bsr.o -MMD -MF build/temp.linux-armv7l-3.5/scipy/sparse/sparsetools/bsr.o.d" failed with exit status 4
Makefile:21: recipe for target 'install' failed
make: *** [install] Error 1
Not a big deal, but a waste of time. That error is at the end of the compiling process -- it failed when it tried to install it. I've compiled OpenWRT enough times and know that you need to create a development environment appropriate for cross-compiling. I didn't do that. After reading through the notes for setting up a proper environment on the dev page for Remedy I decided just to use the image that was already created. I checked and saw that the software versions available for Debian were not current releases, which I'd suspected would probably be the case. I'd also have to fix some things that would pop up during the process of compiling for Debian, and figured I'll just use the Ubuntu based image that's already available. Sometimes I like doing things the hard way, but in this instance there's not much to be gained by going that route other than I'd be using an OS I like more than Ubuntu. Since the only purpose of this SBC is controlling a printer, it's not going to matter.

Although I did learn a bit about virtualized environments in python so I guess it's not a total loss.

Now I'm wasting time by installing a different thermistor. A threaded one. I drilled a hole in the heater block and tapped it. That'll work for the time being -- I was removing the thermistor that was installed and pulled the wire insulation and little puck of sealant out of the end o' it. Decided not to trust it and the only other thermistor I have is the threaded one I mentioned from Gulfcoast Robotics. Flushed out the newly tapped hole and will try some high temp thermal compound I bought for the thermistor and 24V 50W heater cartridge I'll be installing.

Once I get this thing dialed in and want to delve into something that will open up options after I create some sort of an enclosure, I'll install the E3D plated copper heater block and an Atlas Scientific PT1000 temp sensor/Resistance Temperature Detector Embedded Circuit board I ordered a bit ago. With a proper nozzle I should be able to push temps way above 300C.

But that'll be sometime in the future. Gotta walk before I run on this. Need to do a some soldering on connectors and whatnot.
Oct 05, 2019, 10:07 PM
Registered User
I've been studying the wiring to make sure I have everything connected properly. I've decided to go ahead and change the connectors on the wiring to the KF2510 connectors that plug into the Replicape board. I wanted to be able to go back to the Creality board, but decided that I'd just go ahead and change the connectors and be done with it.

I have the Ubuntu/Redeem image installed on the Beaglebone Black, and am in the process of plugging things into the board and mounting it in the enclosure. All the power related connections are done, and I'm working on the various thermistor, fan, stepper motor, and stops connections now. I think I have the cables set up, but when I went to plug in one of the fans I found that the wires aren't long enough to reach where it plugs in on the board, so I have to add an extension to it. No big deal, but I've worked on it enough for the day. I'll get back into it tomorrow.

I'll run the stepper motors and stops wiring into the enclosure tomorrow and plug them in last. That'll be the last step before I get into assembling the new power supply with the enclosure and firing it up.

For now, there's a FIA WEC race in Japan that'll occupy my time . Just over 5 hours to go.
Oct 12, 2019, 11:42 AM
Registered User
Everything is installed and connected.

However, there have been problems, and continue to be. One of the major ones I just figured out.

When I turn the printer on, the servos go into something of a semi-locked state, and any attempts to move them when using Octoprint fails with a snap buzz sound that only lasts a moment then a low tone buzzing noise.

Before I removed the stepper motors to run through some tests I saw somewhere to determine how they are wired, I removed the connector from the X axis stepper and connected it to a spare Stepperonline stepper I have. It rotates with no problems at all. The CR-10 apparently uses stepper motors that aren't wired in the standard fashion. Great. (or at least mine is that way)

So I'll have to figure out how they are wired and figure out what I want to do at that point. Since obviously I'm not in a big hurry I might just order some replacement stepper motors, and for the interim cobble together some sort of an adapter for the existing steppers.

By the time I get done with this printer there won't be anything CR-10 left on it anyway, and I'd rather have standard components on it rather than whatever Creality installed.

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