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Jan 17, 2018, 01:58 PM
Registered User
yes, glass is caved in in the middle, but i fixed that by putting a bit of aluminum foil under the center, it seems to fix the issue.
i had a problem where every print started with print head raising about an inch and starting extruding in the air, often the print itself would start too high above the plate, removing 1 line of code fixed that.
stringing i still have, but it is due to gcodes from 3d lab made for direct extruder, not bowden tube, retraction length and speed need to be changed, i still experimenting with it. i had layer separation and shift due to lose extruder wheel, turned out it is not enough just to adjust eccentric nut, but i had to tighten the screw, and i had to hold the nut on the opposite side with the wrench. otherwise the nut just spins. some stay in place some you have to hold.,
also i've learned temp settings are not exactly accurate, i go 10c above recommended for the hotend,
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Jan 17, 2018, 02:13 PM
Misfit Multirotor Monkey
Cyberdactyl's Avatar
Thread OP
I use CURA for 95% of my slicing, and have no issues. I also have Simplify3D, but find it is overkill for most of my prints. I only use it when I need to get fancy with supports.

One thing I might add, and it may or may not have been your problem/issue. But make sure your slicer is set to the right printer. I messed up initially because CURA did not have the CR-10 as a choice of printer, so I had to add a 'custom printer' and then named it CR-10.
Jan 17, 2018, 02:42 PM
Registered User
iirc i had to do that too, i have cura as well, 3.1 version, simplify3d is $150 so unless everything else fails i wont be buying it, cura seems to work fine. for now

cura does supports too, maybe not as good, but they are there.
Jan 20, 2018, 12:53 PM
rip
ripacheco's Avatar
I just ordered a CR-10S
Is there is something I need to get to print with carbon fiber infused filament and polycarbonate?
I can see myself printing in More than just pla and abs
Jan 20, 2018, 01:10 PM
Misfit Multirotor Monkey
Cyberdactyl's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by ripacheco
I just ordered a CR-10S
Is there is something I need to get to print with carbon fiber infused filament and polycarbonate?
I can see myself printing in More than just pla and abs
Below is a link to a jewel tip nozzle. However stainless nozzles will also work for a decent period. The brass nozzles that come with the printer will wear out very quickly with abrasive filaments. The CR-10 hothead, and it's variants, are good to around 245-250C, which is at the lower range for polycarbs, so printing with those may be problematic.

https://emvioeng.com/shop/3d-printin...5mm-m6-thread/
Jan 20, 2018, 02:57 PM
rip
ripacheco's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberdactyl
Below is a link to a jewel tip nozzle. However stainless nozzles will also work for a decent period. The brass nozzles that come with the printer will wear out very quickly with abrasive filaments. The CR-10 hothead, and it's variants, are good to around 245-250C, which is at the lower range for polycarbs, so printing with those may be problematic.

https://emvioeng.com/shop/3d-printin...5mm-m6-thread/
So the whole hot head would have to be replaced if we are to print with those filaments I understand.
Jan 20, 2018, 03:13 PM
Misfit Multirotor Monkey
Cyberdactyl's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by ripacheco
So the whole hot head would have to be replaced if we are to print with those filaments I understand.
That depends on what you have. The problem is the plastic feed tube goes too deep and close to the heating element and will soften and/or melt if the temps are pushed beyond 250C

However all-metal hotends with stainless nozzles for the CR-10 are not that expensive. And just takes about 20 minutes to replace.

https://tiny-machines-3d.myshopify.c...ty-3d-printers
Jan 20, 2018, 05:21 PM
rip
ripacheco's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberdactyl
That depends on what you have. The problem is the plastic feed tube goes too deep and close to the heating element and will soften and/or melt if the temps are pushed beyond 250C

However all-metal hotends with stainless nozzles for the CR-10 are not that expensive. And just takes about 20 minutes to replace.

https://tiny-machines-3d.myshopify.c...ty-3d-printers
Thank you that is great advice
Jan 20, 2018, 06:41 PM
Misfit Multirotor Monkey
Cyberdactyl's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by ripacheco
Thank you that is great advice
You're welcome. Hope you find the Creality as enjoyable and rewarding as I have.

I have discovered 3D printers definitely fill a niche, where I am designing and printing ...something... every week or so. It reminds me somewhat like the transition I went through with powerful search engines. In the "old days" if I was curious about something and knew I had to drive to the library and spend a few hours researching it, most always I would blow it off, and stay ignorant. Now. . . pretty much any curiosity is a few millisecond search away.

Same now with 3D printers. Before, if I needed a 'custom' gadget, tool, jig, mount, etc., and didn't have it, I would have to make a crude version out of moldable epoxy, wood or aluminum, or spend hours searching for something 'close' on the internet or local brick & mortar. Now, if the item doesn't need strength more than a strong polymer or strong plastic, I can whip up exactly what I need in a CAD program, (I like SketchUp because I have been using it for 18 years) and then print it out anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours.
Feb 07, 2018, 09:21 PM
Misfit Multirotor Monkey
Cyberdactyl's Avatar
Thread OP
Maker's Muze, a very popular Youtube channel addressing all sorts of 3D printing, highly recommends several Creality units for under $400. . .

Best 3D Printers from $200 to $1,000,000 (Yes, 1 Million Dollars!) 2018 (28 min 4 sec)
Feb 08, 2018, 02:57 PM
rip
ripacheco's Avatar
My experience with the CR-10S is that it is not plug-and-play. It requires tinkering.
But... there is a good user-community and they have been incredibly helpful.
Feb 08, 2018, 04:09 PM
Misfit Multirotor Monkey
Cyberdactyl's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by ripacheco
My experience with the CR-10S is that it is not plug-and-play. It requires tinkering.
But... there is a good user-community and they have been incredibly helpful.
My experience with tinkering was around 30 minutes of assembly and leveling the bed. I suppose printing out the filament guide and bed heater cable support was also a tinker, but wasn't critical.
Feb 09, 2018, 03:46 AM
rip
ripacheco's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberdactyl
My experience with tinkering was around 30 minutes of assembly and leveling the bed. I suppose printing out the filament guide and bed heater cable support was also a tinker, but wasn't critical.
I envy your experience. It took me several nights working several hours each to get the printer to have its first print.
I had only one failed print before that. But the difficulty was the setting up.

I have a blog of my experiences in RC and 3D printers:

https://3dprintmaker.blogspot.com

I recommend this machine but with the caveat that not everything will come easy. The support community is awesome. They helped me a great deal!
Feb 09, 2018, 09:10 AM
Misfit Multirotor Monkey
Cyberdactyl's Avatar
Thread OP
Sorry to hear your about the problems.

One problem I DID have was about three weeks ago.

I was printing with white PLA and was trying to print the northern hemisphere of a world globe. I noticed it was stringing and fraying and generally looking like crap.



I finally noticed the main hot-end cooling fan was not working. On closer inspection, I noticed one of the fan's blades had snapped and was jamming rotation. I was able to fix it with no cost because the blade was in one piece and I was able to superglue it in place perfectly, along with a light sprinkling of baking soda and returned it to good working order.
Last edited by Cyberdactyl; Feb 14, 2019 at 11:09 AM.
Feb 12, 2018, 10:41 AM
rip
ripacheco's Avatar
Man!

You changing the fan?
Maybe mod with those “fang” things that direct the air to the top of the print?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberdactyl
Sorry to hear your about the problems.

One problem I DID have was about three weeks ago.

I was printing with white PLA and was trying to print the northern hemisphere of a world globe. I noticed it was stringing and fraying and generally looking like crap.



I finally noticed the main hot-end cooling fan was not working. On closer inspection, I noticed one of the fan's blades had snapped and was jamming rotation. I was able to fix it with no cost because the blade was in one piece and I was able to superglue it in place perfectly, along with a light sprinkling of baking soda and returned it to good working order.


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