Creality CR-10 - RC Groups
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Oct 10, 2017, 02:08 AM
Misfit Multirotor Monkey
Cyberdactyl's Avatar
Discussion

Creality CR-10


I realize the CR-10 is quickly becoming the F-150 of 3D printers, with thousands sold, a huge Facebook support presence and dozens of youtube videos on reviews, mods and general experience. . . so me further saying it is an outstanding printer for under $450 is just another drop in the ocean.

I have had mine now for just over three months and have become very familiar with its pros and cons.

Let's start with the cons. . .

- The main control unit fan is moderately noisy and runs continuously. Sounds somewhat like a high-end video card running wide open. It's in the upper 50's, low 60's db.

- While it does have a HUGE build volume (300 x 300 x 390mm), once you pass ~280mm in the 'z' with thin and tall models, such as spires, rods, etc., the gantry will sway due to the harsh direction change and cause around +/-1mm in the Y direction that will show in the printed model. Thus it does need added support rods, which there are tons of mods to do so. However added supports fix this issue.

-The control unit can set the heated bed to 135c, however there is no way that can be achieved. At best, without added under bed insulation, I was only able to achieve ~90c. However with under bed insulation of cotton batting with high temp aluminum tape, I am able to get the bed to ~114c. Additionally, it takes a good 6-8 minutes to achieve that temp.

-The cable for heating the bed needs added strain relief as it is only connected by its solder connection. The MicroSD card comes with the .stl file for printing one.

-The filament comes uncomfortably close to the Z-axis threaded rod. The MicroSD also comes with an .stl file for a mod to solve the issue.

The printing head is NOT an all-metal unit so it is only good to ~250C, so nylons and polycarbonates are not within the unit's ability.


The MicroSD is not recognized after the unit is turned on and inserted. It must be inserted first. It also cannot be removed and re-inserted while the unit is on and be recognized.

The Pros. . .

-The unit has a HUGE build volume, 300 x 300 x 390mm. They call it 400mm, but going that high causes issues with the feed tube and power cables. Even 390mm one has to pay attention to the cable and tube.

-It arrives well packaged and takes literally 20-45 minutes to assemble depending on the familiarity of the unit and your skills and experience with out-of-the-box assemblies.

-The prints are outstanding following only the filament's recommendations on speed and print temperature.


One caveat, there is a voltage slider on the side of the control box for 110 and 220. Insure it is set on 110 for the US.

Last comment. So far. . . I am 90-95% satisfied with the unit, and would happily recommend it. The missing % is listed above in the 'cons'.

Last edited by Cyberdactyl; Oct 10, 2017 at 08:40 AM.
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Oct 12, 2017, 05:22 PM
Really?
dll932's Avatar
Sounds like value for money. Thanks for the 411!
Oct 12, 2017, 06:01 PM
Misfit Multirotor Monkey
Cyberdactyl's Avatar
There's a flash sale on it now for $400. I've seen it as low as $350, and almost grabbed another. If they had an option for an all-metal hot-end for under $400 I would now have two.

https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers...pp_441281.html
Oct 13, 2017, 11:56 AM
Really?
dll932's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberdactyl
There's a flash sale on it now for $400. I've seen it as low as $350, and almost grabbed another. If they had an option for an all-metal hot-end for under $400 I would now have two.

https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers...pp_441281.html
I'd go if I had the coin. By the time I do, something better and cheaper will have come out.
Oct 13, 2017, 02:37 PM
Misfit Multirotor Monkey
Cyberdactyl's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by dll932
I'd go if I had the coin. By the time I do, something better and cheaper will have come out.
If I had to do it over, I would buy something with an all metal hot-end.

I really like the CR-10, but it looks like I'm going to have to dish out around $90 for a all metal hot end and around $20 for few stainless steel nozzles to handle more abrasive filaments and higher temps.

I WOULD like to go for a jewel tip, but they are around $95. Apparently with those you're good to go for any filament and hundreds of hours before it needs replacing.

https://emvioeng.com/shop/3d-printin...5mm-m6-thread/
Oct 13, 2017, 05:11 PM
Really?
dll932's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberdactyl
If I had to do it over, I would buy something with an all metal hot-end.

I really like the CR-10, but it looks like I'm going to have to dish out around $90 for a all metal hot end and around $20 for few stainless steel nozzles to handle more abrasive filaments and higher temps.

I WOULD like to go for a jewel tip, but they are around $95. Apparently with those you're good to go for any filament and hundreds of hours before it needs replacing.

https://emvioeng.com/shop/3d-printin...5mm-m6-thread/
Nice!
Oct 23, 2017, 02:41 PM
Registered User
DavidNDC's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberdactyl

I WOULD like to go for a jewel tip, but they are around $95. Apparently with those you're good to go for any filament and hundreds of hours before it needs replacing.

https://emvioeng.com/shop/3d-printin...5mm-m6-thread/

1st time seeing this one, very nice!
Oct 23, 2017, 03:51 PM
Misfit Multirotor Monkey
Cyberdactyl's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidNDC
1st time seeing this one, very nice!
Yes, I'm very tempted.

One huge caveat though, as opposed to brass or stainless nozzels, the jewel tip can be chipped or cracked, so extra care is needed when bringing the tip down to meet a glass or metal printing surface. You definitely don't to smash it down by accident.
Oct 23, 2017, 05:14 PM
Registered User
DavidNDC's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberdactyl
Yes, I'm very tempted.

One huge caveat though, as opposed to brass or stainless nozzels, the jewel tip can be chipped or cracked, so extra care is needed when bringing the tip down to meet a glass or metal printing surface. You definitely don't to smash it down by accident.
Very true! My CR-10 won't even be here until Wednesday, but I'm already looking into upgrades. Upgrading the hot end is high on the list as I'd like to print more exotic filaments. Which one are you looking at? Micro Swiss?
Nov 22, 2017, 01:17 PM
Misfit Multirotor Monkey
Cyberdactyl's Avatar
Grabbed a fairly high-end gaming PC last week. The case came with a glass side for seeing the internals. I had a bunch of color, 12V LED strips from my multirotor builds and said, "What the hell." It also came extremely limited to extra HD bays.

I also have a PC desk made from the remnants of an old 1980's waterbed and decided to put the new PC on the shelf over the TV/monitor. That's where the CR-10 comes in.

I was somewhat paranoid about having a $2000, 35lb PC on a thin shelf, the feet literally as wide as the shelf itself ..just.. sitting there, so I designed up a restraint system in Sketchup. I also wanted to mount a couple more 1tb drives I had. . .

And here's the beauty of 3D printers, no longer do I wishfully contemplate functional parts when I run into a problem. If the part is not subjected to a few variables. . .say. . .

-temps higher than around 90C
-an abundant amount of UV light
-high-ish tensile stress and quite high compression forces (this of course varies quite a bit from PLA to Polycarbonate/nylon filaments)

. . . 3D printed parts can be whipped up in a couple hours and used in a myriad of places and functions.

The hard disc mounts. . .









The round tube connecting the T-brackets at the bottom is expandable para-cord for tension.









Backstrap to prevent forward toppling. All designed for quick disconnect for take down either for dusting or PC maintenance.





Last edited by Cyberdactyl; Nov 22, 2017 at 06:22 PM.
Yesterday, 10:12 PM
Misfit Multirotor Monkey
Cyberdactyl's Avatar
Since I decided on a glass side and dressed the inside up a bit, I thought I might as well do all I can to keep it pristine inside. As anyone with a box PC knows, the inside can get insanely nasty if not maintained. . .



No way I'm gonna have that!

I whipped up Sketchup again and printed up an arresting-type filter grid system. I used cheap dollar filters surrounded by thin cardboard for the AC in a house and cut them to size. There's enough to do at least two complete change outs.





For the front fans, I needed to sandwich the filter material so I needed two per fan. The front filters have simple 'snap-in' clips to hold them together, and used mini niobium magnets for the corners, and a hook for one side for the front filters.





The fans are much more subdued. . .





The back filter is much simpler, as all I needed to do was lay the filter material on the intake and stick a grid over it.



I fully realize if I don't watch the system, it might eventually begin to influence the internal temps, most especially the video card since it relies totally on the box's internal temp.


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