90mm 44" WS F-16 on 8s - RC Groups
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Oct 07, 2017, 04:39 PM
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VIDEOPRO's Avatar
Build Log

90mm 44" WS F-16 on 8s


Well, here starts my 90mm F-16 Thunderbird scheme build. The wing span will be 44". I will be using the canopy, decals and the 90mm 12 blade fan unit with the 1250kv motor on 8s from the Freewing model to help me. No gear on this model. That's right, this will be a hand launcher to save the weight and allow the ducting to be more efficient. I've been working on the plans for some time now and I do have the templates cut and mounted on my card stock ready to hot wire. Started hot wiring today and have a few sections done.
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Oct 09, 2017, 11:39 AM
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turbonut's Avatar
Nice work!
Oct 09, 2017, 05:43 PM
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VIDEOPRO's Avatar
Progress photos. Just under a third of the way through the fuselage. Nothing glued together at this time.
Oct 09, 2017, 06:31 PM
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jumo004's Avatar
I'm interested in your templates. Is there a certain type of card stock that you use ?

Also, do you cut them out by hand (scissors ?) because they look very accurate ?

Do you use any fixtures to keep the fuse straight when gluing ?

Thanks !
Oct 09, 2017, 07:15 PM
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VIDEOPRO's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jumo004
I'm interested in your templates. Is there a certain type of card stock that you use ?

Also, do you cut them out by hand (scissors ?) because they look very accurate ?

Do you use any fixtures to keep the fuse straight when gluing ?

Thanks !

The card stock is just thin card. I get it free from work. It comes inside our boxes of books at the warehouse I work. I print out my templates and then I use 3M 77 spray adhesive to mount them to the cardstock.

To cut the cardstock I use a combination of scissors and then an exacto knife to get the inside cuts.

When I glue the sections together I will have a full side view fuselage printout to lay the sections onto so they stay matched up straight. When the two halves of the fuselage are completely glued and straight I will then glue the left to the right. Before glueing the left to the right I will cut the hatches out, sand the inside smooth and add reinforcements to the inside of the fuselage. Do to the thin foam underside of the ductwork I will fiberglass portions for strength.

You'll get a better idea when I get to that point. I will post photos.
Last edited by VIDEOPRO; Oct 10, 2017 at 09:13 AM.
Oct 14, 2017, 02:58 PM
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VIDEOPRO's Avatar
Few more sections cut. Nothing glued together yet.
Oct 14, 2017, 10:34 PM
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Nice work, Vidpro! I'm also doing a stacked foam project, Very slow progress due trying not to paint oneself into a corner. Still did a few times.

Phil Lin
Oct 18, 2017, 10:47 PM
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VIDEOPRO's Avatar
Managed to get a few more sections cut.
Oct 19, 2017, 02:47 AM
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KarlHeinz57's Avatar
I find this method very intriguing. If the task of going from CAD drawing to slices could be simplified (i.e. using a CNC router or hot-wire machine to cut the slices), the build time could be significantly reduced.

Also, the materials involved are relatively inexpensive compared to balsa and lite ply. A little fiberglass cloth and voila! Speaking of which, assuming you will be glassing it once sanded/shaped, what type of resin will you use. I've used polycryclic with my balsa builds and am very happy with the results and wonder if it will work on foam.

I notice you're using a green foam. What type of foam is it and where did you acquire it? Around here I've only found blue and pick foam at Home Depot and Lowes.

Would it makes things any easier if the drawings included a couple of alignment holes? Using a CF tube would then ensure alignment and could even be left in for added strength. Of course, not being machine-generated, there's no guarantee the holes would be perfectly aligned to start with.

Lastly, what is the advantage of building each half of the fuselage separately? I've seen other similar builds where the fuselage slices were complete. Given that any interior work can be done piecemeal as the fuselage is assembled, this would seem to be a simpler method (to my untrained eyes).

Thanks. I'm very eager to see how your build progresses and ultimately flies. Good luck!
Oct 19, 2017, 07:31 PM
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VIDEOPRO's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlHeinz57
I find this method very intriguing. If the task of going from CAD drawing to slices could be simplified (i.e. using a CNC router or hot-wire machine to cut the slices), the build time could be significantly reduced.

Also, the materials involved are relatively inexpensive compared to balsa and lite ply. A little fiberglass cloth and voila! Speaking of which, assuming you will be glassing it once sanded/shaped, what type of resin will you use. I've used polycryclic with my balsa builds and am very happy with the results and wonder if it will work on foam.
I plan on using cloth in some areas with epoxy resin for strength. (underside intake area) For other areas I plan on using the Polycrylic method. I will test it on scrap foam at first.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlHeinz57
I notice you're using a green foam. What type of foam is it and where did you acquire it? Around here I've only found blue and pick foam at Home Depot and Lowes.
Here in Maryland at my local Lowe's hardware has it. They used to carry the blue but have changed over to this green stuff. I do find it to be more durable than the blue. I like it better. It has a plastic feel to it but cuts like butter on the hot wire. My local Home depot has the pink.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlHeinz57
Would it makes things any easier if the drawings included a couple of alignment holes? Using a CF tube would then ensure alignment and could even be left in for added strength. Of course, not being machine-generated, there's no guarantee the holes would be perfectly aligned to start with.
It may make it easier to glue together however that's more work than needed. Would have to cut out the holes on the card stock templates. Hot wire the hole cut outs. What I should have done was to have a notch cut out inside the battery bay for a square carbon fiber tube and use that for alignment and strength.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlHeinz57
Lastly, what is the advantage of building each half of the fuselage separately? I've seen other similar builds where the fuselage slices were complete. Given that any interior work can be done piecemeal as the fuselage is assembled, this would seem to be a simpler method (to my untrained eyes).
I had done it that way on my previous build. If you look at my templates I have two guide marks for alignment when I pin the card stock to the foam. Those lines are drawn onto the foam. That line will be on every section on the center line of the fuselage. That being said I will be able to keep that line straight (fuselage) when gluing sections of one side only together. I will most likely be gluing several sections from the left side together (like 8) and build up several sections of 8" inch lengths then glue the left to the right.
Oct 20, 2017, 02:15 AM
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KarlHeinz57's Avatar
Thanks! I'll be very interested to hear how the polycrylic adheres to the foam. It works great with balsa sheeting as it penetrates into the wood. I have used Minwax wood sealer as a precoat to avoid too much polycrylic soaking in to keep the weight down. Of course, that would be unnecessary with the foam.

I'm dreaming of how I can put my CNC machine to work creating these slices. As I have little to no CAD experience, I've used devFus software (see http://devcad.com) to create fuses (not yet built one from it though). Stefano has a version, devFus Foam, that will generate the files to cut slices with a CNC machine. The only drawback is that his software does not (yet) have provisions for defining internal ducting suitable for EDFs. Perhaps someday...

Of course this is all rather academic and I apologize for drawing attention away from your build. It's looking great so far and I see no reason why it won't be a super model. Keep up the great work!
Oct 20, 2017, 11:54 AM
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jumo004's Avatar
Hi VIDEOPRO, I have used the same type of construction with 6mm Depron (when it was available) for 30mm edf's.
I'm lucky in that I have access to a laser cutter.

I like your method as well because it looks like there is less sanding to final shape.

I'm heading out to Lowe's this morning to pickup some of the 'green stuff'. I've been using the 'pink stuff' all along.

Apologies for the diversion .....
Oct 20, 2017, 12:07 PM
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VIDEOPRO's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jumo004
Hi VIDEOPRO, I have used the same type of construction with 6mm Depron (when it was available) for 30mm edf's.
I'm lucky in that I have access to a laser cutter.

I like your method as well because it looks like there is less sanding to final shape.

I'm heading out to Lowe's this morning to pickup some of the 'green stuff'. I've been using the 'pink stuff' all along.

Apologies for the diversion .....
That's great. I think your really going to like the green stuff. It's pretty stiff. If you look at my last build thread on my LFI-S21 Russian jet there is a posting with some weights sitting on a wing overhanging the table's edge. Pretty impressive how much load it can take.
Oct 20, 2017, 01:28 PM
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turbonut's Avatar
That is a good looking 1101..be sure to start a thread. it great to see guys doing some real building...No unboxing
Oct 20, 2017, 06:16 PM
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KarlHeinz57's Avatar
One last question... what type of adhesive do you use to attached the slices together? I would imagine that epoxy would be too hard and wouldn't allow easy sanding.


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