New HK Arctic Cat Water Plane - RC Groups
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Oct 04, 2017, 01:40 PM
Northwestern U.S.
XionUAV's Avatar
Cool

New HK Arctic Cat Water Plane


Great looking new little Glue-N-Go seaplane from HK - 820mm wingspan. The only problem is there appears to be no provisions for a motor even though they recommend a 2212 to 2216 with 6" prop. Guess we'll just have to wait to get some additional information.



Last edited by XionUAV; Oct 04, 2017 at 01:45 PM.
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Oct 04, 2017, 01:58 PM
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union1's Avatar
As far as I can see it's either got to be a prop-in-slot arrangement, or one of these:
Oct 04, 2017, 02:30 PM
Northwestern U.S.
XionUAV's Avatar
As a "water plane" it couldn't have a slotted prop so it appears there's just something missing from the pictures. It's hard to tell from the small picture of the parts layout but it does show what appears to be a curved wood piece with slot. That could be part of the motor mount.

I'm going to give one a try and will post what I find.
Oct 05, 2017, 02:51 PM
You're killin' me Smalls
BrownEyedFool's Avatar
Wonder if they licensed the design or just ripped off the original designer's IP. Hope they made Model Aero whole, they've not been real square with him in the past.
Oct 05, 2017, 06:29 PM
Northwestern U.S.
XionUAV's Avatar
The HK "Arctic" Cat does look just a little bit like the "Aqua" Cat.

Recently I bought the "Norie" and "Neno" flying fish from HK. One time I mentioned "Turnigy" in a Traxxas forum and they censored it stating they were in a patent dispute with HK and didn't want that word on any of their forums. The business of fun can be unfair sometimes and get ugly, for sure.
Oct 06, 2017, 05:44 AM
Sure, I can fly after sunset!?

All your questions answered


H-King Glue-N-Go Arctic Cats - HobbyKing Glue-N-Go Series (7 min 17 sec)
Oct 06, 2017, 05:52 AM
Sure, I can fly after sunset!?
$34 plus $10 shipping for Detroit
Oct 06, 2017, 12:45 PM
Northwestern U.S.
XionUAV's Avatar
They must have posted that video yesterday because I couldn't find any additional info a few days ago.

Mine showed up this morning. Not a fan of the motor mount so I may do something different. But overall it should be a cute little cheap basher. I'm not a fan of using hot glue for assembly and will probably assemble mine using slower but less messy methods, maybe. Depends on my mood that day. But even on cheap thrashers I still want them to look good, at least until they're beat up from flying. Hopefully some others will build and post their experiences because I probably won't get to mine for a while.
Oct 10, 2017, 12:23 AM
Caution: Noob in training
RoGuE_StreaK's Avatar
XionUAV can you please give some info on what material is used? They specifically state that it's a "water plane" but their use of the term "foamboard" is giving me concern until it can be cleared up; is it just a depron-style plain XPS with printing, or an XPS with paper covering (the usual accepted use of the term "foamboard"). If the latter is it a waterproofed covering?
Oct 10, 2017, 12:12 PM
Northwestern U.S.
XionUAV's Avatar
Having never tried one of HK's Glue-N-Go planes before, my first thought was the same about the "foam board." But aside from the water and paper covering issue, you can't bend that stuff without creasing it so I knew this had to be something different.

The stuff they use appears to basically be the same type of foam board without the paper exterior. A better description would be foam sheeting. Fairly dense and stiff but bendable to a point. Kind of like dense and smooth EPP with ink graphics applied directly. It's good material for a thrasher plane.

HK markets this kit as if it's a quick and easy build but in fact it's pretty involved. A lot of steps and a lot more of them if a person wants to prepare it for actual water use. If you slap it together with hot glue like they do in the video then it probably wouldn't really take that long to build. Especially if you don't care what it looks like when your done. But there are still little things you have to do like measure and cut a few parts from a blank foam sheet and the nose piece is actually a square block of what looks like EPO foam that you have to carve to the proper shape. The instructions say to cut the nose off the fuselage then shape the block for the nose and glue it on. If you notice in the video they didn't even bother to do that.
Oct 10, 2017, 07:09 PM
Caution: Noob in training
RoGuE_StreaK's Avatar
Thanks Xion, I'd tried checking out the other glue-n-go plane descriptions to see what I could garner, but they all seem to be using different materials, some are listed as foamboard, others EPP.
This seems like a skinned XPS I guess, like depron, so should do the job as long as you don't hit into things; if/when I get one I might hit it with WBPU as an additional skin, with some ultra-light glassing on the bottom for durability.
Oct 11, 2017, 09:51 AM
You're killin' me Smalls
BrownEyedFool's Avatar
Turns out Hobbyking has not reached out or compensated Model Aero for this design.

So it's a ripoff. HK had gotten better about this sort of thing for a while.
Nov 02, 2017, 11:32 PM
Northwestern U.S.
XionUAV's Avatar
Got bored with other stuff and decided to start building the Arctic Cat. This is only the second Glue-N-Go plane I've built. The first was the Tang that required a full slot-prop to nose-motor mod to quiet it down and get the CG to work with a reasonable size battery. The Arctic Cat is a decent kit and it's good size. So far it's more like glue and glue and glue and glue some more and then glue again and maybe "go" at some point after getting another tube of Welders.

One thing that plagues this kit just like the Tang is the control surface hinges are cut too far into the foam and are partially detached. Smeared a thin layer of UHU POR on the hinge to make sure nothing rips off during flight.

The parts all fit pretty well. The biggest challenge so far has been bending and gluing the flat spars to the wing outline and horizontal stab supports without making a mess. Tried UHU POR first but it didn't stick well enough at the bends. Ended up using med CA and glued them down in sections. That worked fairly well.

The manual is really vague regarding the rudder assembly and the parts don't match the manual. The manual shows two beveled pieces that are glued together and then "glued" to the rudder. The problem is the pieces in question are not beveled and there are no hinges provided. So to make that work you'll need to sand a bevel in the rudder pieces and provide your own hinges. Maybe they are supposed to be included and mine are just missing.

There are no slots in the fuselage for the aileron control rods so you'll have to best guess where to cut those.

The top cover is supposed to be partly glued on then cut in half with foam strips cut and applied inside the fuselage to provide a lip for the cover where the battery goes. There's no latching method specified. So basically you're on your own to figure out the best way to make that work. I'll probably fashion a magnet system.

The supplied motor mount just doesn't do it for me. Haven't got to that point yet but the supplied mount being vertical above the fuselage just looks like a point of failure to me. So I'll try to figure out something that distributes the pulling force over more of the frame.
Nov 04, 2017, 08:01 PM
Northwestern U.S.
XionUAV's Avatar
Got a little more done. Used UHU POR in several areas like attaching the fuselage bottom to the side pieces. Used Welders for a lot of other pieces with CA to hold stuff in place sometimes. And right after that saw a You Tube video where a guy said the Welders he used eventually turned yellow and brittle with most of the joints breaking lose. Great. Normally I use Beacon Foam Tac, which the guy said stays clear, flexible and has never failed him. Some of my Welders planes are a couple of years old and I've never had any issues so don't know. Normally I use Foam Tac but ran out. Guess time will tell.

The rudder definitely needs work. Beveled the hinge area but the instructions show to place it even with the lower edge of the vertical stab. If you do this then it hangs below the rear of the aircraft. Fine for water only use but it will get ripped loose in short order on grass. I moved mine up a ways and will trim a little more off the bottom. It could have gone slightly higher but the top of the rudder swings upward with movement because of the hinge angle so there has to be some space between the rudder and horizontal stab. The top of the rudder could be trimmed and it moved higher on the stab. Then it would probably clear the ground. Either way.
Nov 06, 2017, 12:27 PM
Northwestern U.S.
XionUAV's Avatar
Got the rudder shaved and now working on a motor mount. This mount places the prop in the same position as the stock mount only distributing the load over a much larger area. It will be made from 1.6mm and 2mm CF sheet sandwiched and glued to each side of the vertical stab. Looking for some white plastic sheeting to cover the front fuselage underside. I can see this foam getting roughed up otherwise. Will make it more slippery for takeoff from grass and sledding on snow as well.


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