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Aug 24, 2009, 04:24 PM
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GerbilEssences's Avatar
Originally Posted by Pat Daily
Jerry Paisley's Buffalo
Buffalo Buffalo Buffalo!
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Aug 24, 2009, 11:21 PM
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pburress, thanks for the kind words. With a P-Nut, you have to be careful how you add weight. I was recently looking at the original N6016D and wished I made the oleo strut more compressed. But at least I made an attempt at it.
Aug 25, 2009, 02:11 PM
Closed Account
Originally Posted by Tom Nied
My Piper Tri-Pacer built from Mooney plans. 5.3 grams
That's a real looker! Did you use the Walt M Piper Colt plan as a starting point? Your model is very realistic, and having the photo documentation in your link shows a very close resemblance. Nice job.

Could you provide some details about your covering job and trim color application. Thanks!
Aug 27, 2009, 05:09 PM
Registered User
IndoorFlyerABQ, thanks. Yes I did use Walt Mooney's Piper P.A. 22-108 Colt Peanut plan, dated 3-15-70. Looks like I added the rear windows.

The covering is Gampi tissue applied dry using the butyrate dope method. Two coats of Sig Litecoat diluted 50/50 with thinner is applied to the frame edges. Sanded lightly after it has dried. Then when the tissue is placed on the frame, with a small brush, thinner is brushed over the tissue only where the tissue touches the frame. The thinner soaks through and softens the dried dope, making it sticky and the tissue is pushed down on the part. Sometimes a small dab of dope is needed to get the tissue to stick, but most of the time it sticks. Once I'm happy the tissue is adhered and the excess has been trimmed, the tissue is very gently misted with Isopropyl alcohol. I usually spray into the air above the part and let the particles just gently fall onto the part. The shrinking of the tissue has to be done very carefully, warps can easily sneak in. I like to do opposing sides simultaneously if I can. For color the tissue was gently sprayed with an air brush with artists latex paint that I thin out with water to almost the consistency of milk. I buy that paint at craft stores like Michaels. It's fairly inexpensive compared to hobby shop prices for paint and dries water insoluble. Masking has to be done very carefully. Sometimes just cut paper with rubber cement. I'm sure I used some of that blue painters masking tape, but do yourself a favor, experiment on either a test structure or old airplane. This far into the construction is a bad time to screw things up. When I start a model like this, I like to make what I call some warm-up frames. Its a little extra work but it kind of gets you up to speed when you really have to get things right on the model. Some carefully placed ink lines help it as well. But a small airbrush really allows one to get the paint on thin. You have to make every effort in a Peanut to get it light. Hope that helps.
Last edited by Tom Nied; Aug 27, 2009 at 05:29 PM.
Aug 28, 2009, 01:13 AM
Closed Account
Thanks! That's very good info--the use of artists' latex really opens up the color palette. I'll have to give that a try.
Aug 28, 2009, 08:35 AM
Registered User
I meant to say artists acrylic paints like these. And yes, that opens a wide palette for color. They mix well if you need a special color and clean up is with soap and water.
Aug 28, 2009, 10:17 AM
Closed Account
That's really funny--in my reply, I typed acrylics, then went back and edited my post after rereading your description. I guess I thought you said acrylics the first time. Anyway, YES, it's acrylics, and I have some on hand that I will have to experiment with...
Aug 28, 2009, 07:23 PM
Registered User
I was re reading my reply and had the horror thought that some guy was going to open a gallon of paint he had left over from painting the living room. Ha! Those paints might work, but we don't have to go that cheap. Only if you want to know the difference follow this link When I buy Artists acrylic, it usually comes in those bottles like you saw in my earlier post for just over $2. Funny in my brain while I was typing latex = acrylic, but there are some significant differences.

Now one more idea. I once knew a guy who colored his tissue with chalk. I asked him how he kept it on the tissue and I remember him saying he guessed gravity was holding it.

When I was airbrushing with artists acrylic, I would spray very fine almost transparant coats. Letting them dry and then applying more light coats until I got to the opacity I could live with. Less is more. It dries so quick, you can pause and watch it dry. Always enjoyed that.

I noticed Harbor Freight has a pretty economical brush. or
They're probably not the best, but I bet they work just fine for our purposes, just add an air source.

I apologize, I'll stop my yapping. Email me for any further question. I didn't mean to hijack this forum.
Last edited by Tom Nied; Aug 28, 2009 at 09:51 PM.
Aug 28, 2009, 07:36 PM
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oldpilot's Avatar
Eleven posts of OT chatter and no pics.
Aug 31, 2009, 05:11 AM
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Veron ducted fan SABRE.

Just finished the Veron SABRE.
Cox TD 049 power with a Veron fan. 280g/under 10oz ready to fly.

It's modeled 'loosely' on the magnificent RAAF Sabre just restored at Temora Museum NSW. (Do a Google and check it out)
I was fortunate enough to be able to see it some time ago being restored.
Sep 05, 2009, 05:45 AM
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Gluehand's Avatar

Swedish Championship Oldtimer F/F 090822

Unfortunately I was unable to go there myself this year, but here are links to a VIDEO ...and to some PHOTOS

Enjoy !
Sep 05, 2009, 09:39 AM
Registered User
Enjoy I did! Good photos and an above-average movie; obviously superb conditions and a good flying site.

Also enjoyed seeing long time friends (over 40 years) Sven-Olov Linden and Sten Persson; please say 'Hi' for me if you meet or are in touch. Also Gunnar Wivardsson.

Sep 05, 2009, 12:07 PM
Registered User
What a great movie. I'm getting exposed to new free flight stuff and learning a lot. That's a large field there. The largest field I've been going to isn't near that size. My comment about it being big enough for any free flight awhile back wouldn't hold water for those long high flights!

Sep 05, 2009, 06:15 PM
Registered User
Thanks for sharing. All my sort of models. Good field. Good weather too.
Sep 09, 2009, 05:43 PM
Intermediate Multi
Trisquire's Avatar
My father built this rubber powered Focke-Wulf Fw.56 Stößer in Germany in the '30s:
Last edited by Trisquire; Sep 11, 2009 at 08:37 AM.

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