Here? This is Andy Brough's twin Mills. Sounds very unlike a Mills when running, and cuts when the fuel runs out as if it is overcompressed (but isn't).

Guess who made that?

Initials 'DG' with a son sometimes known as Jiffy?

Jiffy,

Is the twin a 1.5 or??

Cheers,

if I have to be honest, I dont really know to much about these engines and the sizes I'm sorry, I fly more I.C / Glow just do a bit of free flight from time to time to spend a bit of time with the old man.

Tony do you know my Old man?

Jiffy, I'm the one supposed to have amnesia! Take a look at https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=527948 - post number 6

What excuse have I got??!!

I've forgotten, but we are English. We don't need excuses. I plead insanity.

Very English. (Anglo Saxon type)

Hi all! I am a complete newbie in Indoor FF. Has been accumulating resources from the net and from publications by Lew Gitlow and the INAV's Winning Designs book. I don't even have a winder, just hand winding or using a battery operated cheapo winder from China!

Thought of posting some pictures of my first 2 indoor freeflight models, an EZB and a simple ministick (modelled after the Czech Ikara Butterfly). Both built using locally sourced balsa and renolds/saran wrap. The EZB weighs a hefty 1.6g and the ministick weighs also a hefty 1.0g. So far I am happy with the weight results taking into consideration the lack of competition grade balsa and light weight covering.

hklam

Jiffy,
That sleek yellow job in your post 419 - is that a "Mac's Minnie"? I have often fancied it for a PAW .5 for rocket aeros - how does yours fly? (I see some interesting blue ballast boxes in the R****Compartment! )

Chas

hklam,
A pretty good start I would say. Models look the part.
If you are careful - and you sem to be - you can find
reasonable wood off the shelf in the 4 - 6 lb/cu.ft.
range.
Commercial winders are available, bu it is quite easy
to make your own from pinions and gears that the
model car people use. Aim for a ratio of 20:1 or
greater. A proper winder and possibly a torque
meter (also home made) will make quite a difference
to your flight times and reliability.

Presume you have to buy in the rubber, or are you
able to strip your own?

Good luck with them , they look good to me, can't imagine building anything that light !

Tony, I am willing to testify to your insanity

Returning to the theme of Mills engines.

I have attached a picture of my 0.75 and 1.3 cc Mills.

Not well cared for, not used for well over 30 years and not cleaned either.

The question is, there are some numbers stamped on the motor lugs, anybody got any ideas what they signify.

The 0.75 has 78 stamped on one lug and 999 on stamped the other (it could be 666 if read the other way up.)

The 1.3 has 34 stamped on one lug and 070 stamped on the other.

One of these days, when the urge takes me, I may just build a Slicker Mite for the 0.75 and maybe a Keil Kraft Bandit for the 1.3

Ah, Nostalgia isn't what it used to be.

Brian

It takes one to know one Brian

The 999 Mills is clearly an Australian version, known as the 666 down there. A Doonunder Mills it's called on Tyneside, Doonside in Oz. (No, I know it's not a Doonside Mills really, it's far too old for that I would think). Haven't a clue really and although KC would know, he's on his way to Muncie right now.

Tony

Having written that, I've now spoken to Andy Brough who has a penchant for all things Mills, having many different models of them, including Jiffy's dad's engines in various sizes. Andy tells me that the smaller number is a batch number for the crankcase, and the larger is an individual within that batch. The 'SAM Speaks' magazine had an article which identifies each batch by year so they can both be traced to their year of manufacture. trouble is, I don't have any of those mags.