AnyCubic I3 Mega 3D Printer Review - Page 2 - RC Groups
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Sep 30, 2017, 11:11 AM
RCG Admin
Jason Cole's Avatar
I’m not sure it’s an amperage issue if the stock power supply is correctly rated at 25A. The one I’m using temporarily is only showing about 16A draw when heating up and only a few amps or less when printing with minor spikes as the heaters turn on. Nothing remotely close to the stated max. Could be a short or simply overrated specs, who knows. I’ll give the new stock supply another chance and if it fails I’ll just go with an external again permanentaly.
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Oct 09, 2017, 11:43 AM
My quadcopter is not a drone!
unseen's Avatar
A question for anyone who has already received their printer (mine is still on the way from China).

Is the heatbreak in the hot end PTFE lined or all metal?
Oct 11, 2017, 09:25 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by unseen
A question for anyone who has already received their printer (mine is still on the way from China).

Is the heatbreak in the hot end PTFE lined or all metal?
hi,
I am Anny, nice to see you and if you need me to help you check your order, pls feel free to PM me with your order number
wish you have a nice day~
Oct 12, 2017, 12:31 PM
My quadcopter is not a drone!
unseen's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearbest
hi,
I am Anny, nice to see you and if you need me to help you check your order, pls feel free to PM me with your order number
wish you have a nice day~
Thanks Anny, but there's no need. My printer is still somewhere between China and London before DPD ship it to Sweden for me. From what I've been reading, I might have to wait a bit longer than expected due to problems with customs in the UK. These things happen unfortunately.

When my printer arrives, I'll be able to check for myself how the hot end is constructed and if it can be made to run at temperatures over 245 degrees.

Thank you for your attention!
Oct 12, 2017, 02:09 PM
RCG Admin
Jason Cole's Avatar
Unseen, I've got the spare hot end that came with it, but I'm not sure how to tell if it's all metal or if the PTFE lines it. If there's an easy way to tell, I'll crack it open and take a look.
Oct 13, 2017, 04:42 AM
My quadcopter is not a drone!
unseen's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Cole
Unseen, I've got the spare hot end that came with it, but I'm not sure how to tell if it's all metal or if the PTFE lines it. If there's an easy way to tell, I'll crack it open and take a look.
It's easy to see.

Unscrew the nozzle from the heater block. Unscrew the heat break from the heater block. You could also unscrew the heat break from the heat sink.

If the heat break has a PTFE liner, the end that screws into the heater block will look like the one on the left. If it doesn't, it will look like the one on the right:



The end of the heat break that screws into the heater block is exposed to the full temperature that the hot end is set to. If you expose PTFE to temperatures of 245 degrees centigrade or higher, it begins to break down. The chemicals released by PTFE when it exceeds 245C are very toxic and if a 3D printer has any PTFE that is close enough to the heater block to be exposed to such temperatures, you should never exceed 240C and should use a reference measurement to ensure that your hot end's temperature sensor is accurate before setting temperatures close to that limit.

If you could have a look at your spare hot end, I'd really appreciate it!

When unscrewing the nozzle from the heater block, hold the heater block with an adjustable wrench while you unscrew the nozzle. If the nozzle is tight and you don't hold the heater block still, you can snap the heat break. The heat break should be made from stainless steel which is used because it's a poor conductor of heat and the unthreaded part of the heat break between the heat sink and the heater block should be very thin. This makes the heat break quite fragile if you subject the unthreaded part to any twisting forces.
Last edited by unseen; Oct 13, 2017 at 05:07 AM. Reason: Added disassembly caution.
Oct 13, 2017, 08:53 AM
RCG Admin
Jason Cole's Avatar
Well, it's lined.
Oct 13, 2017, 11:10 AM
My quadcopter is not a drone!
unseen's Avatar
Thanks for that Jason.

I guess I'd better get myself a proper all metal hot end ordered!
Oct 13, 2017, 11:17 AM
RCG Admin
Jason Cole's Avatar
Let me know what you buy, I may want to pick up one too.
Oct 13, 2017, 12:44 PM
My quadcopter is not a drone!
unseen's Avatar
I just ordered a genuine E3D V6 hot end. Thankfully, a local supplier in Sweden had one in stock at a sensible price.



For you in the US, you can get the E3D here: https://www.matterhackers.com/store/...75mm-universal

One of the key parts of the E3D V6 is the heat break. In their design, the heat break is all metal and the PTFE tube from the extruder drive sits in the cold end of the heat break like this:



So, the filament is supported by the Bowden tube all the way to the heat break. The other feauture of the E3D heat break is that once the bare metal hole inside the heat break approaches the heater block, the hole is polished smooth to stop the now soft filament from jamming inside the heat break.



The genuine E3D V6 hot end costs $73. You can buy clones from China for 1/8 of that price, but the small details that make it work so well, like the polished interior of the heat break are not likely to be there.

Personally, I like to support the people who actually invented the V6 hot end, so I really don't mind paying for the real thing.

Instructions and 3D-printed parts needed to replace the original hot end on the i3 Mega with the E3D V6 are available on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2539301
Oct 13, 2017, 12:50 PM
RCG Admin
Jason Cole's Avatar
Awesome! Thanks for posting the info. Super helpful!!!
Oct 13, 2017, 02:14 PM
My quadcopter is not a drone!
unseen's Avatar
My pleasure!

I just wish my printer would get here. I can see me sitting with a shiny new E3D hot end and nothing to install it on!
Oct 13, 2017, 04:21 PM
Too many? No such thing.
Micubano's Avatar
I've been 3D printing and designing parts fro a few years now using Sketch Up, Fusion 3D, and a few other programs. Recently I needed a part for a Radian Pro. I created the design using a caliper and Microsoft 3D Builder. I thought the interface was too simple the first time I tried it and used it only to repair stl files, but it's growing on me as something to actually design with.
Latest blog entry: Days are getting really short
Oct 13, 2017, 04:35 PM
RCG Admin
Jason Cole's Avatar
very cool! Love that we can just create stuff we need now.
Oct 14, 2017, 08:54 AM
My quadcopter is not a drone!
unseen's Avatar
My printer has now departed the UK for Sweden!

I'm really looking forward to receiving this. Just keeping my fingers crossed that the courier doesn't mishandle the shipment and that I don't run into problems with the holders for the rails that the bed moves on or the PSU giving out.

Given some of the things I've been reading about this printer, I think my first job will probably be to give it a very detailed inspection before using it.


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