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Sep 04, 2017, 03:02 PM
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Walkera Goggle 4 Mods


Once again a Walkera Mod...



I wanted a smaller headset that could accommodate glasses. I've looked around and most are of the refrigerator box type like my current headplays. I found some Walkera Goggle 4s on Feebay for $60 that I think were used for a review or something because the clear plastic wrap was still on them and they looked as though they were never used. They came in the original box which also looked new

Anyway I tried them out and found the following:

1. Not comfortable on the cheek bones
2. A lot of light leaking in from around the face pads, vents in the sides, around the split in the middle of the two halves and also through the white plastic.
3. The screen looked distorted and kind of bland
4. The receiver was Blah... Even with my patches, 12 turn helical!!!, Airblades, Mad Mushroom, aomways and the TrueRC X2 air antenna.... it still wasn't very good
5. Battery is not changeable!!!

But...

I did find some positives
1. Light on the head
2. Nice form factor
3. Voltage display on the screen that blinks to let you know when the battery is close to dying
4. Overall nice looking

As with all things Walkera... you have to Mod their stuff to make it right. This goes back all the way to 2006 when I first flew their 4#3 copters. Nothing Walkera makes is 100% done and nothing they make is fully thought out. They are great for coming up with nice looking designs but usually fail in execution, customer service and quality control. If Walkera was in the custom tire and rim business, then they would make Awesome! Great Looking! Square rims and tires with the promise that round ones are coming soon..

The nice thing is that usually their stuff ends up for resale at a MUCH lower cost and for those that know how to mod things (thanks to being a Walkera customer I learned how) then you could end up with some nice things for cheap.

So on to the Mods and a guide for anyone wanting to try this:


First was taking the unit apart.

1. Remove the face pads that were designed by a Sadist

2. Remove the two tiny screws that are under the forehead pad

3. Carefully pop out the black plastic face plate. There are 4 places that these lock into the housing. Two on top on each side of the face plate and two on the bottom.

4. Carefully work your way around the edges of the main body of the unit unpopping the 6 places where the two halves come together. You should not need to pry these apart but if you do then use something that will NOT dent the plastic where the two halves come together or you will end up with a light leak!. I found by lightly pushing with my thumbs on the two halves I could get them to unlock. Also be careful NOT to use too much pressure so as to pop the two apart violently like a potato chip bag! This could damage the small wires connecting the two halves. With patience it was easy to get the goggles apart.

5. After the two halves are apart then remove the two screws on the bottom half that holds the head straps and battery on. Then unplug the video out cord as well so the two halves are fully separated.

6. Carefully place the screen half off to the side so as not to get broken. My bench is a mess so things often get broken or scratched so I put the screen half in a box.

Now on with the pictures:


For this Mod I chose to pick up a Holybro Hukiya Fatshark Module https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...atshark-Module from GetFPV http://www.getfpv.com/fpv/holybro-hu...rx-system.html because it was cheap and allowed both antennas to be separate. If I was to do it over I probably would have gotten the Furious True-D because:
1. They answered my emails
2. They said they are coming out with a DVR+Docking for modding headsets!!! Already cut the hole when I found this out



After having my Goggle 4s apart, I noticed that the mirror in the goggles was badly distorted! This would explain why the image looked so bad. The screen in the Goggle 4 was actually very nice, sharp and bright but with the distorted mirror it looked very bad. Not all Goggle 4s will have this problem, as anyone that has ever had a Walkera product knows, the QC is a luck of the draw kind of thing.
picture showing the rounded distortion on the bottom of the stock mirror. Mirror broke removing it from the mount.



For those that do have this mirror problem:
1. You can get a piece of vehicle mirror glass cut from an auto glass shop
2. You can get a piece of plastic auto replacement mirror from Autozone for $9

I chose to do glass for mine but I had a piece of the Autozone plastic stuff laying in my garage (wife loves to damage truck mirrors)
The plastic stuff is actually really clear and easy to cut but the glass gives a better depth to the image so I chose the glass and after the glass company cut it, I put a thicker plastic backing on the halves that wasn't going to be glued to the stock mirror mount. I also painted the edges with black paint so I didn't get a prism effect. Be careful if you chose the glass option because it will break if you exert any pressure on it. When I was done with the receiver mod and put the mirror back in place, I also glues the mirror carefully to the two plastic deflectors using black silicone.

Picture of outlining the cuts needed for the glass shop.




On to the Mods:

1. Remove the 4 screws that hold the two deflectors sides.
2. Carefully remove the mirror and bracket by pulling straight up on the mirror assembly
3. Remove the video IN RCA jack
4. slide out the front little plastic piece that looks to someday be used for a camera

Now the bottom half should be clear of all things to make out cuts and paint
picture of the bottom half cleared and ready to be cut



I cut out the hole by carefully tracing around the main receiver unit. I kept checking and test fitting to make sure I was very close to the receiver unit's outline because the included bezel/door doesn't allow much room for mistakes. I used a cutting disk and small sand drum from my Dremel to make the cuts being sure not to melt too much of the plastic so as to lose my outline. I made my cut between the bottom half's structure gussets so I didn't take away the integrity of the sides. Luckily the receiver fit nicely between the two. Once I was done and the fit seemed perfect with the receiver's door, I drilled a hole for the sister receiver on the other side of the bottom half of the goggles, making sure that it was forward enough so my patch antennas would stick out in front of the goggles. I painted the bottom half with Flat Matte Black Ace hardware paint. BTW Ace hardware paint is great stuff and we use it at the shop to paint all of our electric motors. It dries very very fast unlike Rust-Oleum paint. Careful NOT to get ANY paint on the outer part of the goggles for it's very very difficult to get off and will dull the surface!!!

Pictures of the hole cut for both the main and secondary receiver hole and paint






Extending the cable:

The cable included was not long enough to go from the main receiver to the secondary receiver so I had to extend it. Luckily I had an old Walkera ribbon cable laying around (Another Walkera mod to make things better) that was the right gauge, however any wire that is the same gauge will work.
image of extending the 9 leads going to the secondary receiver


image showing the secondary receiver with double sided sticky tape and rubber gasket used on the inside of the bottom housing so to block light leakage


Placement of the Receivers, wires and buttoning up.

Once I was done with the Cable I placed the mirror and deflectors back into the unit and routed the cable behind where the mirror sits. When I went to place the receiver into the nice hole I cut, I realized the pins on the receiver were too long so they had to be cut down. Once cut so the unit would fit, I soldered my power and video lead on the pins. and routed them around the back side of the mirror because all of the connections will be on the top and bottom, right side of the goggles. Make sure to make the power and video receiver wires long enough to route them behind the mirror. Also the power leads should be much longer because they need to be soldered to the USB connector on the top half. If you make them too short then it will be difficult to solder and be difficult to take the goggles apart if you have to in the future. The secondary receiver was mounted with sticky tape and using the nut to secure it in place. Also used a rubber made gasket between the secondary receiver and the bottom half on the inside.

I trimmed the door/bezel with my dremel to fit the contours of the side of the goggles and used double sided sticky tape to mount the receivers. The main receiver was mounted with sticky tape to the right side deflector and the secondary receiver was mounted on the inside of the bottom half. The nut for the secondary receiver mounted on the outside of the goggles also helps hold it in place. The main receiver's door/bezel was glued into place and the nut for the antenna jack also helps hold the door in place with the gluing process. Careful NOT to get any glue on the outer shell.. can't get it off... Also don't get any glue on the screen or receiver unit so it can be removed if new firmware comes available.

Image showing the main receiver and bezel/door after sanding to contour


Once done fully assemble the bottom half and solder the receiver video lead to the center pin of the VIDEO IN jack. When you look at it, you will see that one half of the jack is for the - outer part of the RCA male plug and the other half is for the center pin of the RCA male plug. Tuck all excess wires behind the left side deflector and out of the way from where the two halves come together.

Image showing the bottom half fully assembled and where to solder the video lead. Also shows the closed cell foam used to block out the light from the vents



Now that everything is in place for the bottom half (except for the head straps) it's time to do the top. Be mindful of where they have the cables and wires routed because if they are not routed the right way putting the unit together the screen won't screw down. (I take pictures with my phone when working on things so I know how they got back together)

1. Remove the 4 screws that hold the monitor in place
2. Remove the 3 screws that hold the receiver in place
3. Remove the two screws that hold the button board in place
4. Remove the two screws that hold the USB board in place.
5. Tape around the top half edges and tape off the buttons, vents and anywhere you don't want paint. The paint will dull and be very hard to remove if you get it on the outer part of the shell so take your time.
6. Paint the top half with matte paint. Light coats, 5 minutes apart is all that is needed. Ace Paint should be fully dry in 1 hour but you can handle it in 15 minutes

Mating the two halves together

Now that both halves are done it's time to resemble everything

1. Reassemble the top half being careful of where the wires where originally routed under the screen. Do not force anything or it will break!
2. Solder your receiver power leads to the USB board. It is clearly marked what side it 5V+ and 5V-
3. Attach the headstrap to the bottom half
4. Use some black tight cell foam and wedge the foam between the headstrap mounts and the bottom half side vents to help block out light. You could also just tape these up for they server no real purpose.
5. Carefully assemble the two halves by clicking them together.
6. Any excess wire from the receiver power leads can be tucked in between the bottom half of the shell and left deflector.
7. Don't forget to clean the screen and all inside parts from dust or you will be looking at it magnified when flying!!

Pictures of the top half and where to solder the power for the receivers




Time to fix the Sadistic Face plate

The face plate and padding I think was designed around a pumpkin because I have never met a person that would have a face that flat or large.
To fix this I used a heatgun to contour mine for my face but if you don't want to chance that then just use the Headplay foam pack to make your foam thicker. If you do want to try the heat gun method then make sure to remove the clear lens from the face plate!!!

Image of Range Video's foam




The foam packs I got from Rangevideo https://www.rangevideo.com/products/...m-foam-inserts and https://www.rangevideo.com/products/...m-foam-inserts they were like $12ish with shipping. Because everyone's face is different, I really can't come up with a pattern of one size fits all here and you will need to experiment. The headplay pack comes with two different thicknesses and you can stack them as well. My only advice would be just to take your time and trial fit before cutting. Mine turned out very nice and fits my face so it's comfortable all day, offers plenty of airflow so my face doesn't sweat and doesn't leak light.

Click the face plate back into the goggles and don't forget the two screws on the top corners of the forehead padding..


Image of the completed face plate foam



Overall impressions:

I now prefer this headset over my modded headplays. The Goggle 4 is stylish, small, lightweight and the screen is much sharper. I'm able to see branches that I don't see until too late with my headplays. The mirror provides and much nicer depth to the image than before and the padding feels very nice on my face. The way I did my foam I can easily use my glasses (readers when flying) and it fixes my vision of the screen however I did notice that I really can fly without them thanks to the sharpness of the screen. My Headplays have the RHO lens mod done so no glasses needed.

Image of the completed unit



The Holybro Hukiya is OK but not as good as my Quanum 5.8Ghz VRx that I modded into my headplays. The way I have the Quanum set up, it does it's job very well whereas the Hukiya is constantly switching antennas like it's on crack ,and that causes blips in the video link. I think there is a firmware out there that would fix this so I'm looking into that now. The Goggle 4 screen is primarily made for NTSC and not PAL and I also do not think the stock receiver is made for PAL either so be mindful of that.

The Hukiya also doesn't do a very good job scanning channels and often you will have to rescan several times to find your channel so it's best to know EXACTLY what channel your VTX is on. The Hukiya also doesn't list the channels properly as in C3 is actually E5 and so on, so it's very confusing. I did use the RSSI feature in the Hukiya software and it helps, but honestly I think this module is one of those "you get what you paid for kind of thing" even though it wasn't much cheaper in price than the True-D. If I had to do it over, I would have modded the headset with the True-D or La Forge for I KNOW they are very good as I have used them with other people's goggles. If I knew I was going to like these goggles so much after the mods, I would have spent the extra!



What I still don't like and the mods I will be doing soon

1. Battery mod. The battery in this only lasts for about and hour of flying. I don't know if that is because it is still powering up the stock receiver AND the module now or not, but the push button on top of the goggles should turn off the stock receiver.. It could be that the module is just a power hog as well so further investigation is needed. Either way the fact that Walkera did just use separate batteries and instead build one in just shows once again they don't think things through. I like the little charging/PDB/battery they have but they could have provided a port for an external batter to be used.

2. Audio out is needed. I like to hear what my props are doing and it makes for a much more immersive experience. This will be an easy mod for there is plenty of room for a small 3.5mm jack.

3. No DVR comes with this and so I will make it happen just like I did for the headplays. It also should be an easy mod to do because I will just bring out the video out leads (in cable form) and attach the DVR to the head strap

So was it worth it? Was it worth a night of modding and the $130 I have invested?

YUP! These are very comfortable on the face and the screen is very sharp
.

Last edited by Deserteagle; Sep 04, 2017 at 03:31 PM.
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Jun 13, 2018, 12:39 PM
Registered User

Please help me


Excelent mode, congratulations. How did you connect the module to the screen? Can you help me tell me how I connect an Eachine PRO58 RX Diversity to the screen?

Do you have the problem of the black screen?

Thank you


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