Bigg's Soling Build and Refit - RC Groups
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Sep 04, 2017, 02:14 PM
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Build Log

Bigg's Soling Build and Refit


So, I finally did it and got myself a Soling! I really want to take my sailing skills up a few notches. Sailing by meself is fun and relaxing, but I won't really get much better that way. And tuning is still a black art that eludes me. I love building too, but my builds are getting stuck at the rigging stages still. I really need to understand tuning them better.

Getting a Soling is not the easiest task these days. Or at least not for the amount I wanted to spend... I tried to order one in Feburary, emails and questions to Victor went unanswered. I ended up not ordering one then. I have been on my local club's mailing list for over a year now. Maybe 2 weeks ago I got a sales flyer with a bunch of boats for sale. They were still all out of my comfortable price range. I contacted Boatyard to see if he had anything else.

I wasn't patient enough, so I tried ordering from Victor again... This time I definatly hit the "place order" button. Still haven't heard anything back. Well later that evening, Boatyard got in touch with me. He had two boats he had just gotten in. So he sent me pictures. One was rough, but the other caught my attention. It looked nice inside and out, has decent HiTec servos, and was even baby blue!

In the meantime, another member here contacted me and made me an offer on a partialy built kit, complete with servos, that I really can't turn down. Oh boy, the rabbit hole sure is getting deep...

Yesterday, I went to go look at the Blue Boat. And predictably, I bought it... The pictures didn't do it justice. SUPER clean boat! Can't really tell how old it is, but it looks either almost brand new, or it was just a shelf queen. I talked to Boatyard for over an hour and came away with a bag full of goodies too. A brand new still in the box LiFe battery, a Berger Boats bumper, line to run new sheets, materials for telltales, ez pushrod fitting, servo extension, tuning guides, TONS of advice, and sail numbers. I may have left a couple items out too...

As a side note, a VERY cool discussion occured regarding telemetry and GPS! Nothing new to add to that conversation really, other than the interest in it is pretty broad.

The wallet was a bit lighter than I wanted, but I paid a very fair price for it! And had enough to pay my new membership dues! As a bonus he contacted the club's vice commodore and got me my lucky number for the sails. Pretty stoked!

The boat isn't perfect, it needs just enough work so I can put my mark on it. Hull has fairly fresh paint, but a few dings and scrapes. More than good enough for now though. Better than I hoped for! Sheet lines, wow. They are newish with zero signs of use. Probably because they really CAN'T be used they are setup so badly... I was prepared for that though, and as a bonus Boatyard also tossed in a nice custom "boomerang" arm!

So I got home and went to work. Started off with a cleaning off of the workbench and garage floor. Mostly because I trashed it after spending 2hrs looking for my spare receiver before finally locating it. Thats when the troubles really started. The sheets are worse than they looked. There isn't even adjustments to set the lengths! I had to put some stupid numbers into my TX to get it working. 35% taken out on one side, and 80% on the other!? Something is obviously setup wrong.... I might fiddle with that a little more, but not too much. The best solution is to just redo the whole sheet setup.

Then the unexpected problem. Whenever I turn the rudder, it groans and vibrates. I can feel it through the hull. It was so bad, I expected to see it bent and rubbing paint off the bottom of the hull. Nope, not touching anywhere. Either the shaft and post are binding, or the top of the post has a rough edge and is catching on the bottom of the plastic control arm. Whatever the case, it needs to come out for a closer inspection. And I should probably put a laser on the hull + keel + rudder and check for straightness. Nothing looks off with a simple visual check though.

But at the moment, it is together enough I could go take it sailing! I don't expect it to sail perfectly. Fortuantly, I don't know what "perfectly" is yet. There are a bunch of little things needing done. The base setup needs to be checked. Boat "tank" floated, mast plumbed and rake set. ETC.... I stared at the base tuning instructions, and they wern't all immediatly clear. I need to spend some more time studying them and look online for more info, maybe a video or two.
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Sep 06, 2017, 10:46 AM
Modeler/ Historian
Stephen Vick's Avatar
Nice find ! Enjoy...
Sep 06, 2017, 04:33 PM
Registered User
Thank you Stephen! I can't take much responsibility for "finding" it though. That credit goes to Boatyard. I just was smart enough to talk to him LOL!

Well the sheets are a disaster. I messed with them further and I can't program the issues out. They suck. I was hoping for the least amount of effort to just put the boat out on the water and enjoy it for an hour or so before tearing into it. Boatyard offered to take care of it for me, that might be an offer I take up still... But I do need to learn these things too. I can't figure out if the geometry is fundamentally flawed, or if simply making the sheets adjustable with the existing setup would solve it. The second option will take away most programming issues, but I suspect the geometry and setup are flawed to begin with.

As these sheets were setup, sailing this boat would have been near impossible. I kinda suspect it has only been in the water a couple times.

The rudder noise was a bit of a pain. The screw didn't want to come out and was corroded into place. It took vice grips to finally free it. There was no grease on the rudder shaft. And corrosion on the shaft and bottom of the arm. That was the grinding vibration noise. Now that I have it apart, should be a pretty easy fix.

I saw one other possible issue? There are voids in the rudder. Not to mention the rudder weighs in at 56g! I have built hulls that weigh less... But do I need to address this before reassembly? I would probably use finishing resin to seal the top up.

In the second picture the shaft looks, bent. Just the camera angle as shown in the third one.
Sep 06, 2017, 04:47 PM
Registered User
By rules the rudder "should" be filled with epoxy, but you can just seal it and be done.
The weight is a non issue, the whole boat ready to race is supposed to be a minimum of 10 lb, few grams in the rudder are not making any difference in performance whatsoever .... Actually don't worry about single components weight at all, especially if you are looking at grams or fractions.... Anything between 10 and 10.5 lb (even 11 lb) is a perfectly fine soling.
Sep 06, 2017, 04:52 PM
Registered User
I am used to gram hunting, must get beyond that. It weightd in at 10lbs 1oz, so right on target! Okay, will seal the rudder up with some finishing resin. Good chance that will slip into all the voids anyways, or at least the ones open to the top. First order of buisness though is some gentle sandign and polishing to get rid of the corrosion. Off to go dig for some supplies!
Sep 06, 2017, 05:40 PM
Modeler/ Historian
Stephen Vick's Avatar
I agree the shaft looks bent, which would explain the binding Perhaps a new rudder? I would guess that as long as it matches the same profile it would be Kosher. Still, great boat... Look as if a minimum of effort will have he running great. Keep safe with that storm off your coast...
Sep 06, 2017, 11:48 PM
Po' boys does w/ Po'boys ways
haxawsnavy's Avatar
Biggs, I think it looks good except your afore mentioned adjustability as she is set up now. However I KNOW you can manage these "issues" once you get the proper "heading",! I'll ask my friends and club mates that sail the Sol for help to you with links to rigging/tuning/upgrading sites n vid's to be posted here on this thread. (maybe some other RCG members) will ring in TOO,!! Tim Cap'n Hax P.S. DONT forget to grease that shaft n tube WELL before taking her out cause not only does it prevent the crud but also helps keep the H2O OUT,!!!!
Last edited by haxawsnavy; Sep 06, 2017 at 11:52 PM. Reason: added P.S
Sep 07, 2017, 01:27 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephen Vick
.....Keep safe with that storm off your coast...
Thank you, it is frightening for sure. I am looking at the positive side though. Friday and Saturday morning should be some good sailing... Yeah, I just went to Home Depot to get ply, the line went to the back of the store. All carts full of OSB. Not a sheet left to purchase. Otherwise our hurricane/zombie kit is very well stocked.

The rudder is straight, the third picture was to show that it was just a weird camera angle issue.

I had a small disaster with the first resin fill. I masked it off then made a "cup" for the overflow out of blue tape. The cup didn't hold.... I had been gently squeezing it to get the air out of the center and then ended up with resin leaking out of the cup and all over the whole rudder. And my holding vise. A frantic hunt for rubbing alchohol and a handfull of paper towels got it sorted out though.

It is good enough now, but another carefull application of resin fill would make it better. There was some delimitation issues on one side, so glad I used the resin and got it all down into it. I think I will hit it with one more resin application...

Thank you Tim! Your idea hit pay dirt! Hax was talking to me on the telly tonight as I pondered the shaft corrosion cleaning issues. He suggjested a drill bit. I found one the right size and spun it up into there with my fingers and some PB Blaster to get it cleaned out. I haven't refit the rudder yet, but pretty sure the noise and vibration issues will be solved now. I don't think the rudder stuffing tube was ever stuffed. It was completely dry.

The sheet issues are slightly harder. The nice boomerang arm is not a direct fit. The servo arm it is attached to is for a much differant spline. I don't have the right horns for this servo, so I will gove a shot at swapping around with the rudder one. The rest of the setup should be okay. I took some pictures of other boats and some sweet setups for adjusting the sheets. I am going to try and incorporate those ideas.
Sep 07, 2017, 11:21 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephen Vick
I agree the shaft looks bent, which would explain the binding Perhaps a new rudder? I would guess that as long as it matches the same profile it would be Kosher. Still, great boat... Look as if a minimum of effort will have he running great. Keep safe with that storm off your coast...
Ohhh, don't even mention the rudder profile or changes to the rudder ...... you really don't want to go there. Thing have barely calm down after the rudder rule change you don't want to start up the discussion again


Biggs, I don't want to sound pedantic, but don't use OSB, go with plywood, it has better resistance against flying projectile and better water resistance too ..... it's also way more expensive ... in any case stay safe, we do need to figure out the sail performance thingy somehow ....
(you are on the gulf side of florida right? .... I have relatives on the atlantic side/shore ...... not very happy right now)
Last edited by gio06226; Sep 07, 2017 at 11:32 AM.
Sep 07, 2017, 05:22 PM
Lucas
Biggs, the last image on https://www.theamya.org/hints/sailservo.php might give you a good idea of what the double arm setup should be like. Just a hunch, but the arm needs to aligned with the servo spline a particular way and perhaps it was incorrectly aligned when you first tried it out. Also make sure the rotation direction is the correct, mayhaps the previous owner has his servo reverse switch flicked.

Otherwise post a good picture of the set up you have or draw out a schematic of what you see there if a picture won't work. You should be able to work out the correct arm swing without the radio first. Just turn the servo arm by hand.
Sep 07, 2017, 09:09 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by gio06226
...
Biggs, I don't want to sound pedantic, but don't use OSB, go with plywood, it has better resistance against flying projectile and better water resistance too ..... it's also way more expensive ... in any case stay safe, we do need to figure out the sail performance thingy somehow ....
(you are on the gulf side of florida right? .... I have relatives on the atlantic side/shore ...... not very happy right now)
They were out of plywood a couple days ago. OSB was the only useless thing available, and they ran out of that last night too. I might check and see if they got more... BUT, I do have two uncut sheets of proper plywood and a dozen or so 2x4 in the garage for the workshop buildout. I am going to focus on the front side of the house. I can get at least two rooms well secured. I am on the gulf side. I hink that is a bonus, but this is also "unofficially" a cat 6 hurricane, and it is running a wide swath. If the eye goes up the east coast, its still capable of doing massive destruction right across the whole peninsula.....

I hear that good wind is predicted for sailing Saturday morning... If I can get the Soling ready in time!

As for the sheeting issues, start off with poor geometry, no adjustments on the sheets, poor arm sizing... And add in a whole bunch of "Say WHAT?" and it equals mostly hopeless. I may copy the existing setup with the new improved arm, and adjustments and see where that gets me. But the way some of my club's boats were was pretty sweet! I am not sure I posted up pictures anywhere.... Maybe if ya guys ask nice I will!
Sep 07, 2017, 11:47 PM
Resistance is futile
circuitfxr's Avatar
Hey Biggs....I live in central Florida too. I don't think Saturday is a good idea for sailing. Irma is supposed to be coming late sat early sunday.

Nice looking Soling! Hax is correct about having adjustability for the sails and back stay. There are small plastic devices called bowsies that can be added to the sail lines for the adjustability. I have recently repaired a loose keel and repainted my Soling. There are some really great tuning videos on youtube for the Soling. It is important to keep the sail lines in good condition because there will be ALOT of tension on them. Rigging hardware for Solings is a little difficult to find, but there are some companies out there that do make some hardware pieces.

If you intend to remove the sails, mast, and boom assemblies for travel, you should consider some "quick disconnect" hardware. A company called PEKABE
has some really nice stuff if you want "ready to use". Be prepared for a hefty price tag though. The other option is to get creative and use some ordinary
items like "L" brackets and flat brackets with evenly spaced holes. Those can be found at most hardware stores. I have also found that some of the heavy duty clasps and swivels used for jewelry also work well.

Setting up your Soling is not a one time thing. As with all rc sailing, the boat should be adjusted for the conditions at the lake. Some guidelines for a basic setup are as follows:

1. With sheets fully closed (close hull), the tip of the boom should point to the port or starboard corner of the transom.
2. With sheets fully open, (spill), the tip of the boom should not approach 90 degrees of the mast. (65 max)
3. Ensure the tension of the bottom of the sheets (clew and tack) is not too tight. Slack is needed to create an airfoil shape to the sail.
4. Shroud lines (from mast to deck on port and starboard) should have slight tension but not tight like a guitar string.
5. The backstay line should also have minimum tension. (Just enough to keep the mast at a 90 degree vertical.) You may need to use an angled mount for the backstay. It should angle away from the hull to the rear. This will keep the backstay line from being hit by the sheets when the boom swings.

That's all the rigging advice I have learned. I hope some of it helps you. The Soling is a very graceful and smooth running yacht. I hope you get many hours of enjoyment from her. BTW... Does your yacht have a name? Something to consider....it is tradition to name boats.

Feel free to PM me or e-mail me if you have other questions. Maybe we can meet up for a sail one day. I am near the Villages in central Florida.

circuitfxr@yahoo.com
Latest blog entry: New SOLING project arrives!
Sep 08, 2017, 01:45 AM
Po' boys does w/ Po'boys ways
haxawsnavy's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by lhurt
Biggs, the last image on https://www.theamya.org/hints/sailservo.php might give you a good idea of what the double arm setup should be like. Just a hunch, but the arm needs to aligned with the servo spline a particular way and perhaps it was incorrectly aligned when you first tried it out. Also make sure the rotation direction is the correct, mayhaps the previous owner has his servo reverse switch flicked.

.
I agree as the image presented is how I upgraded my Victoria and is a (KISS principle) setup.! (added here for learning purposes )not to "hijack",... https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...other-Victoria AND specifically to stay ON TOPIC,.... https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...6&postcount=48 AND wind tested,... https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...1&postcount=51 Tim aka Cap'n Hax
Last edited by haxawsnavy; Sep 08, 2017 at 01:46 AM. Reason: deleted double wording
Sep 08, 2017, 10:22 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by circuitfxr
Hey Biggs....I live in central Florida too. I don't think Saturday is a good idea for sailing. Irma is supposed to be coming late sat early sunday.
Lol yeah trust me we know. I should be finished with preperations in a few more hours though. Going sailing is a good distraction. I am doubting my club will be though. We will see. The wind is kicking nicely right now. I may walk over to the pond for a little bit with my DF65.

Lots of good suggestions thank you! I will sit down with the boat and go through them later when my attention is more focused and not taken up with preperation concerns.
Sep 08, 2017, 11:25 AM
Registered User
Dick L.'s Avatar
here is a photo of a very clean install on a Soling 1 Meter. Drum winch, rudder servo, receiver and battery pack, on a single mount at a nice location near the keel location.


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