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Nov 11, 2017, 06:02 PM
Lot of water; some gets thin
chum444's Avatar
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Our temp was 20 degrees below normal today. However it was sunny so a beautiful day overall. Besides the beaches were not crowded!
Some more effort to set the deck height set today. Cut a cardboard deck template and did some underpinning of the temporary CL beam.
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Nov 12, 2017, 05:23 AM
Registered User
DDG 51's Avatar
I you do not have drawing in size as you need, scan this small one GA plan, take it on USB and go to some good print shop. On good printer they can make for you drawing in exact size as you need and print it too. I am doind this on my ships too. This is much better as calculation.

About Schottle drive, I can recomended this one, from Graupner.

http://www.bauer-modelle.com/epages/...roducts/4.9060

I have this one in Tito Neri, with metal gear purchased in Bauer too. It Works with out any problems. You need just very powerfull servos for stearing, and fill up Schottel drive with grease almost full. Thin one. Of course, replace bushings , use covered ball bearings. Scale props from Bauer are much beter as original props

http://www.bauer-modelle.com/epages/...roducts/4.9071
Last edited by DDG 51; Nov 12, 2017 at 07:18 AM.
Nov 12, 2017, 07:32 AM
Lot of water; some gets thin
chum444's Avatar
Thread OP
[QUOTE=DDG 51;38618852]I you do not have drawing in size as you need, scan this small one GA plan, take it on....

Thank you.
Nov 14, 2017, 11:51 PM
Registered User
Band1's Avatar
This is going to be a great build !
Nov 17, 2017, 05:10 PM
Lot of water; some gets thin
chum444's Avatar
Thread OP
Added a keel based on the Damen 2411 hull. Otherwise working on those necessary things that will never be seen by most folks.

My first use of Schottel drives so will appreciate tips & advice from those of you who have experience with them. My plan is to use a steering servo for both drives, two ESC's & two Graupner Speed 600 motors controlled with a 4 channel TX.
Some questions that come to mind at present:
- Best to set the height of the drive so that the flange on the drive is hard against the hull bottom? Best way to effect a seal between hull/drive flange?
- Best way to seal drive in the bilge? I don't trust a single seal point at the hull/drive flange junction.
- I want to accomplish these while maintaining ability to remove entire drive unit.
Nov 17, 2017, 09:06 PM
Registered User
CaptCB's Avatar
Bill,
I would get some REAL powerful servos, and probably use one on each drive. As Z-drives under power, like to move around!
I have some Savox digital servo's, they have 208 ounce inches of torque, on 6 volts, and a transit time of 0.17 sec. !!!

OVERKILL for the YTL, but since I have them.

I normally use a Hitec servo rated at about 120 ounce inches, and with a transit time of 0.17 sec., on 6 volts.
I normally ONLY use, metal geared, ball bearing servos.

CB
Nov 17, 2017, 10:11 PM
Lot of water; some gets thin
chum444's Avatar
Thread OP
C,
Planning on Futaba S3305 for each drive. Metal gears...don't know about ball bearings; will research. 124 oz-in torque, 0.20 sec transit through 60 degrees. The 60 degrees may be the problem; I need at least 90 degrees.
Tx for the info.
Nov 18, 2017, 10:21 AM
Registered User
CaptCB's Avatar
By using a high torque servo, with an aluminum arm, you can "safely" adjust the steering ratio. Just use a longer pivot point on your servo arm, than you do on the drive arm. Just remember, don't make them too short, as you loose leverage.
I also use the "new" style (plated), Du-bro swivel ball end links, with the 4-40 threaded rod ends. I believe, there is no such thing as overbuilding.
Nov 18, 2017, 02:08 PM
Sea Dragon-Lover
Umi_Ryuzuki's Avatar
I used a large 76 tooth gear from the RC car section of the hobby shop, for steering.
It defintely needs the high torque to off set the rotation from the drive shafts.
Otherwise, at full speed, the motor will out torque your servo and turn the drive.
Nov 18, 2017, 04:50 PM
Lot of water; some gets thin
chum444's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Umi_Ryuzuki
I used a large 76 tooth gear from the RC car section of the hobby shop, for steering.
It defintely needs the high torque to off set the rotation from the drive shafts.
Otherwise, at full speed, the motor will out torque your servo and turn the drive.
I'm planning on Futaba S3305's. What servos did you use?
Nov 18, 2017, 06:36 PM
Sea Dragon-Lover
Umi_Ryuzuki's Avatar
I remember replacing the original servos with Hi-tec high torqe metal gear servos.
But they are in the boat upside down, so I can't see the labels. LoL

Nov 21, 2017, 04:22 PM
Lot of water; some gets thin
chum444's Avatar
Thread OP
An initial look at running gear arrangement. (At least the port side).
Nov 21, 2017, 08:08 PM
boat butcher
the goon's Avatar
Nice .

Mark
Nov 25, 2017, 02:36 PM
Registered User
DDG 51's Avatar
For Schottle drives you must use powerfull servos with metal gears. I had big ones in Tito Neri, standard servo was not enough. When I used 10 kilos servos, everything was good. Once drives are moving in water, standard servo was not able to move drive...
Nov 25, 2017, 03:01 PM
Lot of water; some gets thin
chum444's Avatar
Thread OP
10 Kilos would be 22lbs in english units. What brand servo's did you use? My Futabas have 124 oz-in of torque. Could you please translate the 10 kgs into a torque value?

Thank you

Just explored your Tito Neri post & see that apparently you used Hitec 645MG servos. The Futaba's that I plan on using have torque characteristics just short of the HItecs.
Seeing your profession I assume DDG61 is your call sign. Which airline??

Bill
Last edited by chum444; Nov 25, 2017 at 05:06 PM.


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