Thread Tools
Jan 04, 2018, 11:03 PM
www.3DprintedRCplanes.com
Thread OP
All that I can do these days is to send you the part in some format that you can open and edit (STEP or whatever you need) so that you can customise it yourself.
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Jan 05, 2018, 08:15 PM
Registered User

Another Update


I have started assembling and covering my Maripi. Here are some observations:
Words in ( ) are the terms used here in North America versus those used by Tomas.

1 I have not found a use for the 45mm long 2mm aileron linkage carbon tube.
2 I think there is a better way to cut the carbon rods and tubes. I use an X-ACTO saw because it does not throw any carbon dust into the air. I cut part way through, rotate the part 90 degrees, cut part way through, rotate again, cut, rotate and cut through. Easy to do with much less mess.
3 I believe there should be end plates added to both ends of the horizontal stab, to the top of the vertical stab (fin) and to the top of the moving part of the vertical stab (rudder). I used 1mm balsa sheet to close in these open spaces. Makes covering easier and the plane looks better as a result.
4 In most cases you will need spacers to keep the wheels centred in the wheel shoes (wheel pants). I used aluminum tubing to make them.
5 I have found that I need to sand all the parts before covering. If I donít the covering doesnít stick very well to my glossy ABS surface. This is taking me quite a long time and I have to be very careful not to break the shell parts. However once sanded Solar Film adheres well to my parts.
6 I simplified the horizontal stab linkage. I didnít use the threaded couplers. Instead I put short lengths of the 2mm (2-56 threaded rod) in my drill with about 1cm sticking out. I spin the rod with the drill and used a file to remove the thread and reduce the diameter to about 1mm, to the point where it slides into the carbon tube. Then glue the piece in place in the end of the tube. Repeat for the other end. Result is about 3 grams lighter!
7 I now have the fuse, fin, rudder and horizontal stab parts assembled.

Dave Bowes
Jan 07, 2018, 11:09 AM
Registered User

Assembly Photo


Assembly to date.
Tried to add photo but it won't upload. Site problem?
Last edited by Dave Bowes; Jan 07, 2018 at 11:13 AM. Reason: Photo didn't upload.
Jan 09, 2018, 10:38 PM
Registered User

Photo


Here is the photo that I couldn't upload a few days ago.
More to follow in a few days.
Dave
Jan 13, 2018, 08:50 PM
Registered User

Another Update with more Photos


I have now assembled the wings and ailerons. I added end plates to the fuse end of the wings and ailerons. I think the plane really should have these parts. I made them from 1/32Ē ply glued to 3/32Ē balsa. Then I cut the balsa away as required to fit the 3D printed parts and then glued my end plates on. See photos.

The final photo shows all my assembled parts. I reprinted the front and middle canopy parts in black. My original white parts didnít fit very well and they seemed to be a bit undersized. So I increased the size by 2%, to 102%, using the scale feature in Simplify 3D. The new parts fit better! I used black because I think it looks good on the middle canopy. I am going to cover and paint the area in front of it flat black as is often done on full size planes.
Dave
Jan 18, 2018, 01:57 PM
Registered User

So far - so good


What a great project! Congratulations to the people at Kraga on a very well thought-out design. My fuse parts are done and fit together very well. Did the horizontal stab too. Now working on the wing. Nothing is glued yet, just dry fit.

Has anyone actually completed this plane yet (other than the designer)? Some more flying videos would be great.
Jan 26, 2018, 09:52 AM
Registered User

Coming along


Pretty much finished the printing process and things fit together pretty well. I didn't like the open ended wing center or vertical & horizontal stabilizer ends, so I printed 1-mm thick caps. For the wing core, I just scaled up the wing tip in Cura. Did the same for the stabilizers.

Waiting for the motor to come so I can start gluing the fuse together.

I can't find anyone posting about this plane anywhere else, so it looks like we're the guinea pigs... Really looking forward to seeing it fly this spring.
Jan 28, 2018, 11:35 AM
Registered User

Fuse Covered


I have my fuse covered with Solar Film white and yellow. Also added some flat black paint in front of the cockpit. I found it difficult to get the covering to shrink and stay flat. It would shrink and then when the surface cooled it would wrinkle again. I found it much more difficult than covering a balsa or balsa/ply plane. You really need a low temperature covering material and lots of patience. I eventually gave up on some of the wrinkles.

I used transparent red covering on the stab. This material has no adhesive so I used Balsarite, 2 coats on the plastic parts, to stick the covering to the plane. Although this material shrinks at a low temperature I still found it challenging to get to stay wrinkle free but it is a bit easier than the Solar Film.

I have installed a Turnigy 3632 1200kv motor that I previously used in a 49" wingspan Hobby King Extra 260. (I eventually but a bigger motor in this plane.) This motor is a bit less expensive and a few grams lighter than the recommended motor but it fits and has the same mounting holes.
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/catalogs...y=&q=3632+1200

The prop is an 11" x 5.5" APC electric prop. The recommended prop is a 10" x 6" but I used the 11" x 5.5" on the previous plane with good success. Since I am using 50mm wheels and I made the landing gear about 1cm longer so I will have sufficient clearance for this larger prop.

I have several ESCs between 25 and 60A to choose from and will pick the one that best balances the plane with the Turnigy Nano-Tech 1500 batteries I am planning to use.

I have ordered some Tower Pro MG92B Digital Metal Gear 3.5Kg/cm High Torque Dual Ball Bearing 13.8g servos for the plane. I will wait for them to come and then install them before covering the wing with the transparent red covering material.

Dave
Jan 28, 2018, 11:44 AM
Registered User

Coming Along


Quote:
Originally Posted by rotorsup
Pretty much finished the printing process and things fit together pretty well.
Your shell parts look better than mine! My printer really had trouble with some of these parts, especially the larger wing parts. To get a smooth surface for my covering I did a lot of sanding to get rid of the printer ridges. I also found that the covering sticks much better if the shiny surface is removed from the plastic by sanding with fine (150 grit) sandpaper.

Dave
Jan 28, 2018, 02:09 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Bowes
Your shell parts look better than mine! My printer really had trouble with some of these parts, especially the larger wing parts. To get a smooth surface for my covering I did a lot of sanding to get rid of the printer ridges. I also found that the covering sticks much better if the shiny surface is removed from the plastic by sanding with fine (150 grit) sandpaper.

Dave
Thank you, Dave. I played with temperature, retraction and flow and eventually got what you see. Again, thank you for your kind words.

I have the motor in and servos mounted and couplings done. I'm amazed at the quality of the fits throughout. Servos slid right into the wing (though there wasn't much documentation that I could find about radio setup . (I was wondering how the rudder threads were suppose to run when I saw the little two holes in one of the fuse parts!)

I've got the wings and most of the fuse covered with clear solar film. I find solar film to be a real pain, especially separating it (I'm using the two pieces of tape method) and keeping it from sticking to itself when you peal the backing off. Very delicate stuff. No problems with wrinkling though - maybe my heat's up a bit more than yours - I haven't melted anything yet.

Seems that you and I are the only ones building this plane - at least the only ones talking about it.

Keep the posts coming! When do you think your's will be ready to fly?
Jan 29, 2018, 02:43 PM
Awsome 2.5D Pilot.
bigbobed's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by rotorsup
Thank you, Dave. I played with temperature, retraction and flow and eventually got what you see. Again, thank you for your kind words.

I have the motor in and servos mounted and couplings done. I'm amazed at the quality of the fits throughout. Servos slid right into the wing (though there wasn't much documentation that I could find about radio setup . (I was wondering how the rudder threads were suppose to run when I saw the little two holes in one of the fuse parts!)

I've got the wings and most of the fuse covered with clear solar film. I find solar film to be a real pain, especially separating it (I'm using the two pieces of tape method) and keeping it from sticking to itself when you peal the backing off. Very delicate stuff. No problems with wrinkling though - maybe my heat's up a bit more than yours - I haven't melted anything yet.

Seems that you and I are the only ones building this plane - at least the only ones talking about it.

Keep the posts coming! When do you think your's will be ready to fly?
Try rubbing with an anti-static dryer sheet before separating. Helps.
Jan 29, 2018, 03:53 PM
Registered User

Almost there


Just need prop and spinner - and good weather.
Jan 30, 2018, 02:25 PM
My planes plow into the field
farmertom's Avatar

coverings?


What are your thoughts on covering this bird? How does the Solar Film stick? Anyone tried TowerKote? Anything else?
thanks
Jan 30, 2018, 08:36 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by farmertom
What are your thoughts on covering this bird? How does the Solar Film stick? Anyone tried TowerKote? Anything else?
thanks
I think SolarFilm is like working with GladWrap. It's terrible. Getting the backing off with "winter" static electricity working against you is challenging. As soon as it peels off, it wants to curl over and stick to itself. Then good luck getting it apart. At least that's my experience. After the third cutout stuck to itself (ruined), I started worrying that I'd have to buy more to finish the plane.

All of that said, it is light - and it did stick well, though I think I had my iron set to just below the melting point (for the plane plastic and the solar film). It shrunk down pretty well and overall, I'm happy with the way it came out.

By the way - the all-up weight on my plane should be about 2 lbs, 1 oz., including the recommended 1,500 mah battery.
Jan 31, 2018, 11:21 AM
Registered User
Dennis C's Avatar
I always used a couple pieces of scotch tape to peal the solar film apart. on on the front and one the back.

I folded the ends over to have something to hold onto.

Dennis


Quick Reply
Message:

Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Discussion 3D Lab Print - 3D Printed Boeing Stearman northernmonkey 3D Printed Planes 898 Aug 12, 2019 04:28 PM
Build Log 3D Lab Print 3D Printed Spitfire XVI build Fitz Walker 3D Printed Planes 13 Jun 14, 2017 03:44 PM
Discussion 3D Lab Print 3D Printed Spitfire XVI Power povlhp 3D Printed Planes 5 Jun 04, 2017 05:17 AM
New Product 3D PRINT EXPRESS | 3D printing up to 50% faster AcadVersion 3D Printing 0 May 11, 2017 02:35 PM
Discussion 3D Acrobatic Flight-Cool! Bigbond 3D Flying 1 Jan 03, 2016 02:12 AM