ITC Bladerunner Part 2 - Page 4 - RC Groups
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Nov 05, 2004, 03:43 PM
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Steve-S63's Avatar
I don't think anyone has found a good straight swap motor yet. I understand Petter said that these were special made for the BR.

On the lube issue I have used Silicon Lube in a tube. I purchased it some years ago for plastic gears as it is a plastic friendly lube unlike most petroleum lubes. It's not cheap but it lasts a long time and I did notice in improvement in rotor speed afterwards. I used a Q-tip to apply it on the faces of the two main gears where they touch & on all gear teeth. I also lubed the shaft up to the reduction for the top rotor. I also got the bottom of the shaft below the bottom gear. Make sure not to get it too low or the bottom retaining tube might come off in flight (rotors go up, BR goes down, but eventually they'll all be on the ground at the same time and you can put them back together. ).

I'm getting some great flight times with these Kokams. I tried a more tail heavy balance and I seem to have lost alot of the oscilation I was having. Reverse is still very anemic but forward is ok. They both seem to oscilate kind of like the gyroscopic effect is leveling it out and then the tail rotor tilts it again. Considering the small area I have to fly in though it works.

Great stuff Petter & those who figured out the mods.

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Nov 05, 2004, 04:18 PM
Registered User
I've used Super Lube, it's in a gray tube and it looks like clear toothpaste, once in a while on plastics that have larger gears in them as it has no petrolum <sp> disselates <sp> in it. Those will destroy and weaken plastics.

I never tought of trying the Super Lube on the tiny gears on the BR. I did reshim my motors on the BR to better fit the gears. Meaning the motor to pick up gear. My motors seemed to be a bit far for my liking. SO a little exacto knifing, a little I mean, and I got a nice mesh. My concern was if the BR touched a wall or ground sideways the motors could strip out the gear since mine seemed loose. Now all functions better, at least I think, and I don't worry about stripping. I'll have to put a taste of Super Lube on the gears to see if it helps.

Good explanation on the motor end cap swap Eyes! KEWL, I have a few of those motors new in a bag so I'll keep'em incase I need'em. Sure will be nice if one of the guys on this list can support these motors.

Best regards,

Ron Osinski
aka - GMRO
Nov 05, 2004, 06:23 PM
Me likes Depron...
Pjotrrr's Avatar
Hi there,

I got three Bladerunners over here but I'm using the circuitboards from two of them now for other projects,,,
This means: gearboxes and motors (new!) I will not use anymore...
PM me if you're interested...

Nov 05, 2004, 07:28 PM
Registered User

The Boboche Led Mod.

Hi guys, been a while...

This mod is for the people who don't want to kill their battery while letting the device on, or for people that love bright leds, or simply for people who like taking pictures with lensflares

Basically I bought a bunch of 20+ candela white leds off ebay at some point and I wanted to install them on my DraganFlyer... but CA'ed fingers mentionned adding a led to his ITC and why not... I copied his idea.

Basically I'm taking the power straight from the switch when it's turned on, and the ground straight off the battery's ground. This adds a cool factor and also a light to tell you that your switch is in the on position. I've limited the current to about 17mA (I didn't remember if the diode took 20 or 25mA, but is bright enough as-is anyways).

The only concern I'd see with this mod is About the bladerunner stopping before reaching the threshold where the battery could be damaged, and still draining current to power the led. I wouldn't worry too much about it as leds consume a fraction of what the motors are eating. Plus, if you pick it up and turn it off like you do usually, it's not +/- 1 minute that will make much of a difference.

so here are the pics... not super quality, as I did this rush to share.

I love those leds... soooo bright.
Nov 05, 2004, 08:27 PM
Hals und Beinbruch !!!!
lw_hughes's Avatar
Hello gang, here is an update of my project. I made some small heatsinks out of cigarette foil and spread a thin film of thermal paste on the outside of the motors then just pressed foil into place. I hope it helps. I took off the circuit protection on the cell and added a plug so i can use my apache charger. Can anyone remember the official capacity of the new style cell ( know its in the other thread somewhere). It seems that the tx charger was giving me a voltage of 4.08vull charge)(f. The apache gave me voltage of 4.16. Seems like the duration is a little better but not 5 minutes that is for sure. It seems like i am needing to bend in tons of pitch on my top blades to stop the left drift? I wonder if it might make sense to take some pitch out of the bottom blades . I also noticed that my BR can't maintain level flight once the cell has reached a no load voltage of 3.6. What are you guys getting? I am going to pick up some kokam 340s but am tempted to try a 700 mah kokam i have sitting here (14 grams).
Here are some weight breakdowns on my BR:
New style battery with cut off pcb = 7.3g

model without bat = 37.6

circuit protection pcb = .5g

total weight removed from cat killer mod, removed body and tail head shrink = 5.8g

weight of fuselage without bat and rotors = 24.2

weight of rotor assembly = 14.0g

All for now. LH
Nov 05, 2004, 09:16 PM
Registered User

Your PM box is full. Tried to send you a request for cost on 1 complete set of parts from a BR.

Let me know...I'm in the USA.

Best regards,

Ron Osinski
aka - GMRO
Nov 05, 2004, 09:31 PM
Registered User

IMO you can twist out pitch on either top or bottom rotors. I removed pitch from both. The tops are easier to reach and I'd think there is some physical effect that shows the lower disk needs more pitch vs. the top due to the air being forced through it from the top disk. Ever see what happens when a window fan that is blowing into the room gets hit with air from outside trying to push in? The fan slows or loads slightly. SO I'm thinking the top rotor on the BR does not need the same pitch as the bottom. I think the bottom requires more pitch due to the loading of the extra dirty air forced in from the top rotor disk. IMO... <G> Maybe once Petter returns he can confirm?

Anyway, you only need to adjust one rotor disk usually to keep the BR from yawing on it's own. SO goes the rule of thumb most use that has been posted many times in this thread for left yaw and right yaw.

IMO, you can removed or add pitch to both disks. The key is to make the adjustments or twists to balance the BR so it does not drift or yaw on its own. Again the top rotor would require less adjustment since it's in cleaner air.

If you remove too much pitch from both rotors you will loose lift faster during the battery pack. Meaning you may only have 4 to 5 mins of flying once the battery drops to a level where it can not spin the motors fast enough to fly. If you add too much pitch to both rotors you can prolly hover/fly longer with the same battery but more heat will develop due to the increased load. There is a balance that needs to be met. Not too much or not too little pitch. Trial and error works well. It just takes some time to get it where you want. I found that once I got my BR to 45 grams that I could pull out more pitch from both rotors. Could be this is how my motors seem to run very cool vs. what some report. My motors are not finger touch hot and have not been. I'm under 97 deg F in 4 to 5 mins of flying and hovering. And I get close to 10 mins on the stock pack too.

Hope this helps.

Best regards,

Ron Osinski
aka - GMRO
Last edited by GMRO; Nov 05, 2004 at 09:39 PM.
Nov 05, 2004, 11:21 PM
Registered User
furnaceman's Avatar
meblueeyes, Thanks your mod got me back up in the air on one 340 cell again! Thanks

Nov 05, 2004, 11:32 PM
Hals und Beinbruch !!!!
lw_hughes's Avatar
Hey GMRO, Thanks for your input. Mine suffered from the left yaw from the onset big time and i was just feeling like i might be going overboard with bending the top blades. Its more the motor strain i was thinking about too after doing the mods and soforth. I wouldn't want a huge variance in pitch as i would imagine there would be a one motor under more strain.

Another question, i was thinking about playing around with the distance the tail rotor is from the main rotors. After doing the cat-killer i notice better response as far as forward -aft control is concerned. The main rotors fight back and it sets up a swinging battle between the rotors and the tail rotor sets in. Perhaps if the tail rotor was moved a little closer one would have the desired immediacy of the cat-killer mod but less overall effect.

Nov 06, 2004, 07:53 AM
Registered User
pgoelz's Avatar
Originally Posted by Steve-S63
I don't think anyone has found a good straight swap motor yet. I understand Petter said that these were special made for the BR.
Yes, they were special made. And now for the announcement you have been waiting for..... I have a VERY limited supply of genuine ITC motors. I have five main motors, three tail motors, three tail rotors and three electronics boards. This is a preliminary supply, with hopefully more main motors coming in a bit.

I will sell main or tail motors for $5 each, and the electronic boards for $20. Shipping will be $3 per order to anywhere in the world. I accept PayPal or US funds in an envelope. These prices are preliminary... they will be adjusted up or down if/when I get a larger supply and get some firm pricing.

For more details, please see my Bladerunner parts page at

Note that this page is not yet linked to the rest of my web site. Until I get a good supply of parts, it will remain private, for users of this forum.

PLEASE DO NOT ORDER A MOTOR UNLESS YOU ARE ACTUALLY GROUNDED. They are in very short supply right now.... consider these as emergency stock.... be considerate of your fellow grounded Bladerunner pilots. I am working with Petter to get a much more plentiful supply, but for now when these are gone they are gone.

For now, I would ask that you only replace a dead motor.... do not replace in pairs until I get more motors.

Also do not order a motor unless you are confident in your soldering skills. This is delicate work.

Happy hovering,
Paul Goelz
Last edited by pgoelz; Nov 06, 2004 at 03:12 PM.
Nov 06, 2004, 11:30 AM
Registered User
furnaceman's Avatar
well since i got mine up in running and still have two new end caps left. i'll save those for someone who needs them more, but as soon as you guys get a good supply going i'm going to have to order a bunch! Thanks for all your hard work. I am going to have to come up with some type of quick connect for these motors, any ideas?

Nov 06, 2004, 11:59 AM
UAV Driver
IAD's Avatar
Wow, I missed a lot of info, it would seem... Nobody told me we were on to part II..! Got to catch up...

Nov 06, 2004, 12:43 PM
Registered User
Peter, I'd love any motors you have to spare as I'm dead in the water currently without them...

Nov 06, 2004, 01:45 PM
Registered User

Brushless + Umbilical

Would it be possible to fit a brushless motor to the Bladerunner?

Would it also be possible to remove the battery and attach a lightweight
wire carrying the correct voltage/amperage (obviously with an appropriate transformer at the other end) like the Snelflight Hoverfly 2?

I'm hoping if these are possible it would greatly boost the flight times of the heli.

Thanks in advance for any input.


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