ITC Bladerunner Part 2 - RC Groups
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Nov 03, 2004, 02:42 PM
in persuit of low wing loading
Gordon Johnson's Avatar

ITC Bladerunner Part 2

The original ITC Bladerunner thread is now nearly 1,000 posts long. I've closed it and started this thread. Please post away in this thread instead of that one.

Also please note that I've started a ITC Bladerunner FAQ Summary thread to summarize good techniques and tips. Please post anything good that develops in this or the original thread in that thread. I'll periodically delete discussion in the Summary thread to make it easier to find the information. Discussion should take place in this thread.

Last edited by Gordon Johnson; Nov 03, 2004 at 03:00 PM.
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Nov 03, 2004, 02:54 PM
Registered User

Bladerunner Diet Via The Posted Mods...

Good questions Mitch... (see last post on first itc bladerunner thread)

I've use my IR temp gun pretty sucessfully on my other e-helis. On small motors I've used black magic marker to dull up the finish. BUT I honestly don't see much difference. Maybe my motors are not that shinny?

ALSO, I flew my modified BR today in the big dead air warehouse today. YES, while the thing has way more ZIP and power all around with the shed weigh loss...I actually wish I had not clipped the tail motor ring off. In dead air my mainrotors were clicking at times when I flew forwards. Not faster than walking speed but I definalty heard clashing. And I could see the tilt. Not so yesterday when it was more portly and had the ring. IMO, if you decided to keep the body on the weight could use the ring cut off the tail prop. BUT if you remove the body and shed the weight, personally I'd keep the ring on it. I found myself cycling the tail motor on and off more than before. Seems before it had good forward/backward movement and it was less a hastle to maintain a heading and forward flight. Maybe this is only felt and seen when you have a large area and can get the BR moving vs. a small room when speed is much slower. ??? Just my opinion... Also, I did add the 10mm shim to raise the top rotor. Hate to think of the clashing I would have got if it was left in the stock position.

Anyway, by touch the motors are cooler in temp after 5 mins of constant flying around. Tonight I will temp gun it. I also have some temperature sensative tape that is very accurate. Different heat ranges...just stick it on the area to monitor and let it change color.

BTW, the BR's CG is will sit in a 3 foot hover almost indefinately. <G> Love this thing!

Best regards,

Ron Osinski
aka - GMRO
Last edited by GMRO; Nov 03, 2004 at 03:33 PM.
Nov 03, 2004, 03:14 PM
Registered User
schoey's Avatar

BR in Australia

Just thought I'd post pics of probably the only BR in Australia.

As you can see, its sans canopy and I've done the cat-killer mod. I love the way it flies, it has great response in pitch I can fly circuits around this room all day. The other little mod I have done is the curve in the LG, works alot better and no added weight.

Nov 03, 2004, 04:41 PM
Registered User
a friend of mine just gave me a kokam kok145t lipoly,does anyone know if i can use this in my br?it is very small about 1'' by3/4'' but when i checked it with my volt metre its at just under 4 volts under no load!

thanks in advance

Nov 03, 2004, 06:18 PM
Registered User

Kokam 145 won't work. It's rated 5c, so that's only about 740 mA. The BR should pull twice that. The Kokam 350 (20c) are able to give 6A. Any 300mAh 10C lipo should work. But since they all cost about the same price, the choice is obvious.

If you had 2 Kok145, wired in parallel, that would work. But the flight times may be short.
Last edited by Kwok_Yu; Nov 03, 2004 at 06:22 PM.
Nov 03, 2004, 07:42 PM
Registered User
pgoelz's Avatar
I just got a temp gun, more like a dongle. It gives different results depending on the surface of the object. Shinny motor cans read much lower that they actually are. What do you do about that?
The energy received by your I/R thermometer is determined by the "emissivity" of the surface you are measuring. The more reflective the surface at the wavelength you are measuring, the lower the emissivity. Unless there is an emissivity correction setting, the lower the emissivity, the lower the indicated temperature. Bare metal can be rather low.

The good news is that the inexpensive I/R thermometers operate at very long wavelengths (around 8 microns) and at those wavelengths, most paints and organic surfaces are equally emissive at around 0.9 as I recall. So your solution of painting the motor can is a good one, since that is probably the emissivity that the thermometer is set for.

The other factor is the spot size of your measuring device. If it is larger than the surface you are measuring, you will get a low reading. Unless your device has some serious optics, the spot size is probably larger than you think. If it has a laser aiming device, that does NOT indicate the actual spot size.

Sorry, long answer. I used to be a sales rep for an I/R temperature measurement company. Kinda got the juices going again.....
Nov 03, 2004, 08:02 PM
Registered User

Motor temperatures

Originally Posted by GMRO
I've use my IR temp gun pretty sucessfully on my other e-helis. On small motors I've used black magic marker to dull up the finish. BUT I honestly don't see much difference. Maybe my motors are not that shinny?
Ron Osinski
aka - GMRO
Black marker. That is so much beter than paint. Thanks!

I did a temperature test. First I taped the BR down to a table. I ran the motors at full power for 4 minutes. I took temperature readings every minute. Shut off the motors and took readings for 4 more minutes.

My BR is an early version with the not as good battery. I get 2-1/2 minute flights on a full charge. So the power output and temps are probably not as high as the newer battery.

The motors have flat black paint on 1 side. Reading were taken of the black paint surface and of the shinny can surface.

Time, Black, shinny
motors on
0 min, 67F, 67F
1 min, 83F, 77F
2 min, 97F, 87F
3 min, 109F, 95F
4 min, 113F, 97F
motors off
5 min, 118F , 103F
6 min, 106F, 94F
7 min, 101F, 87F
8 min, 93F, 85F

I put the "eye" right up against the motor can. Wiggled it for highest reading. Is 120F hot for an electric motor?
And how is the deal for replacement motors coming? They should be good motors to get, even for other purposes.

Except that the readings might all be lower than acutal temperature, they look good. The peak temp is after the motors are turned off. It takes a while for the heat to make it out from the armature to the can.

It is a new IR thermometer. Got it from Tower Hobbies in Oct-04. There was a $10 off $25 coupon in Tower Talk. Made it $19 delivered. Not sure how accurate it is.

Sorry, no pictures at the moment. The camera is at work and I wanted to get the numbers out to the group (you folks).
Last edited by msburko; Nov 03, 2004 at 08:07 PM.
Nov 03, 2004, 08:20 PM
Fly, Crash, Build, Fly!!!
Sammy B's Avatar
msburko,ssi the one from qvc come yet?
Nov 03, 2004, 08:27 PM
in persuit of low wing loading
Gordon Johnson's Avatar
Kokam 145 won't work. It's rated 5c, so that's only about 740 mA.
The Kokam 145's are widely known to be capable of 7C, meaning up to 1.0 amps. They were the first of the high discharge Kokams, back when the 520mAh and 1020mAh Kokams were 5C. We discovered what the 145's were capable of long before FMA sold any LiPolys. In fact, before the larger HD kokam's came out people would wire up several of the 145's to get high discharge packs in higher capacity. My guess is the 5C rating on the FMA web site is a typo.


Last edited by Gordon Johnson; Nov 03, 2004 at 08:47 PM.
Nov 03, 2004, 08:32 PM
anyone has any 340's,50,60's FS or trade i need a new Lipo for my Bladerunner the Stock Li-po is not working good i get around 1 minute of flight ,so if you have any Cells that you would like to get rid off let me know
Nov 03, 2004, 08:42 PM
Looking for other Bladerunner Owners in Rhode Island to compare BR's , the only thing problem would be is the fact that two or more would not be able to fly at the same time becuase of the same Frequency unless some has a Different Freq,so if you live in Rhode island ,Mass, CT and would like to Compare notes and Modes or just to have fun Flying these Little Marvels Feel free to email me Looking Forward to Meeting a new Breed of Indoor/Micro Helis and Pilots .............
Nov 03, 2004, 09:16 PM
Registered User
I happened to catch the QVC presentation of the blade runner, and recorded it. Thought you guys would like to see their demo. I uploaded it to the dream models files section. It's a 33 meg file, and runs 13 minutes.

QVC blade runner presentation
Nov 03, 2004, 09:17 PM
Originally Posted by pgoelz
Sorry, long answer. I used to be a sales rep for an I/R temperature measurement company. Kinda got the juices going again.....
Not too long at all. Concise and jam-packed with technical info. Gotta love it!
BTW, did you ever come to a final conclusion regarding the .7 volts to the tail rotor?
And when are you going to get the new model? You're still flying your hacked first generation version?

And MSBURKO: Thanks for your temperature readings over time. Very nice research. This group kicks butt.

LUCH: Thanks for the video for those of us that don't receive QVC.
("Quality, Value, Conveniance" Shopping Channel)

SSLING: Thanks again for your hard work. And thanks for finally eliminating the advertising in your PDF.
Last edited by huggybaby; Nov 03, 2004 at 09:35 PM.
Nov 03, 2004, 09:50 PM
Registered User
Bill Mixon's Avatar
Sorry if this has already been covered, but what is the deal with the two new colors of the bladerunner?
Are there any differences other than the color of the plastic?
Nov 03, 2004, 09:54 PM
Registered User
The Blu/White Is 27mhz and the Grn/Purple is 49mhz, hope this helps.

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