Cigarette/AMG Offshore Powerboat - Page 2 - RC Groups
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Aug 19, 2017, 08:35 PM
Grumpa Tom
Kmot's Avatar
The stern drives came with two different colors of paint. One looked flat black and one looked flat gray. I decided to paint them, but first I filed and sanded some casting lines off of them. I also drilled and tapped them for a connecting bar.

I wanted to replicate a Konrad Marine stern drive, so I painted the lower half a silver gray and the upper half gloss black. The Konrad is actually bright silver, but I liked the sterling gray I had.
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Aug 19, 2017, 09:26 PM
Registered User
Gravman's Avatar
That should really help keep things cool. This boat should have sparkling performance. Just watch out for turtles.
Aug 19, 2017, 10:21 PM
Grumpa Tom
Kmot's Avatar
Yeah I saw your turtle "close encounter".
We do have them in Hansen Dam lake also.

The faux power tilt cylinders that came on the Graupner stern drives looked kind of ugly to me. I decided to change them for some bling. After looking at real, full size Cigarette boats that have tons of bling outside and inside, I figured a little bit could not hurt. I got some anodized aluminum Heim joints and some aluminum turnbuckle rods and made up the new tilt arms.

I also got some scale trim tabs. They are aluminum with scale looking trim tilt cylinders.

I had Callie Graphics make up the graphics for the entire boat and accessories.
Aug 19, 2017, 10:31 PM
Grumpa Tom
Kmot's Avatar
I have gotten a little ahead of myself so I need to back track.

I ordered graphics from Callie, the same that are on the Cigarette/AMG boat. That boat however, is a kind of yellow-green. Anyway, I liked the graphics. I also added some pin striping to my boat. Chrome, and yellow. The chrome is supposed to represent a trim rail around the hull, and the separation of the windshield and side windows. The yellow is just for aesthetics.
Aug 19, 2017, 10:43 PM
Grumpa Tom
Kmot's Avatar
I searched the internet trying to find the best photos I could of the Konrad stern drives graphics. I was not able to get perfect straight on shots for all of them but Callie is an amazing pro who made them all turn out great. I got all of them done, even the little data plate on the right sides.

The trim tabs were liveried with Livorsi and the struts with Lenco.
Aug 19, 2017, 10:47 PM
Grumpa Tom
Kmot's Avatar
I removed the stock trim adjusters and put on the anodized blingy ones. They are much better because they are turnbuckles and can quickly and easily be adjusted, unlike the stock ones that had to be removed first before the length could be adjusted.
Aug 19, 2017, 10:59 PM
Grumpa Tom
Kmot's Avatar

Battery Trays

I wanted something better than just putting velcro on the bottom of the hull, and sticking a battery on it. I found some nice carbon fiber battery trays on eBay. They have aluminum ends that help keep the battery in place.

I posted in Dock Talk about how to attach them and many members had suggestions. I went with Capt CB (Charlie's) idea, but expanded upon it.

I made some rails from red oak. And then I trimmed them to allow the battery straps to go through. I stained and varnished them. After assembly I glued them down into the hull.
Aug 19, 2017, 11:09 PM
Grumpa Tom
Kmot's Avatar
I used black silicone adhesive to glue in the ESC tray and also the battery trays. Being that the hull bottom is black it blends in really well too.
Aug 19, 2017, 11:13 PM
Grumpa Tom
Kmot's Avatar
I like the Octura bronze water pickup's. I added two of them to the hull.
Aug 19, 2017, 11:21 PM
Grumpa Tom
Kmot's Avatar
Now being this is an AMG "electric drive" boat, there should not be any exhaust pipes. But the motors are truly liquid cooled in the AMG boat. But I think it may be a sealed system.

I needed a water exit for my model. I thought that having the water come out exhaust pipes like the engine powered boats, would be cool! But this is supposed to be all electric. What to do! What to do?

Hybrid! That's it by golly! I will make mine a hybrid! Artistic license, lol.

I drilled holes in the transom for exhaust pipes. But I made smaller holes for the water cooling exit pipes. The larger aluminum exhaust pipes conceal the smaller brass water exit pipes.
Aug 20, 2017, 06:28 AM
Po' boys does w/ Po'boys ways
haxawsnavy's Avatar
Fantastic Tom,!! This is try two of my post here seems I'm having an "pooper" issue again even though just did a system cleaning scan,!! so MAYBE this report will post ,..lost the previous n already posted to the under 40 thread before saw the error here. I call it my "pooper" cause when ever you call a creditor or anyone else to resolve an issue/problem ,....(how did we get to an "Issue" FROM it's a Frgng PROBLEM man,!!) I don't know,!! I musta slept some time,... they say "Sorry we can't help you at this time because our computer system is down" ,! (Takein A Ship) git it,?? Anywho love what your doing n learning from you always even though I may NOT always chime in every time I see your post , I do look n read though,!! HEE-HE-hee-he,!!!Tim aka Cap'n Hax P.S. I'll do it for you even if I have never ordered anything just from seeing is believing, Callie you got it goin on ,!!! Beautiful work as the testament "show your Callie Graphics" thread honors you,!!
Aug 20, 2017, 07:01 AM
Boaters are nice people.
Hi Tom,

H&M still sells the 150A Powerchip with a slightly different look:

Please keep in mind the Graupner Ultra motors (built by Plettenberg) are designed as aeroplane/heli motors.
They tend to overheat quickly in boat applications where maximum Amps are drawn (which really isn't a lot, compared to modern day brushless).
They are 'famous' for shedding tin from the overheating commutor, which usually means a trip back to Plettenberg for a rebuild...
Boaters, who 'abuse' these motors in large high powered set-ups, use radial fans to keep the commutor as cool as possible, combined with a full jacket watercooling (no coils, these are useless in this application!).
Plettenberg added the fans as a response to these abusers later as a stock feature.

I have a smaller HP 290/30 Torque on which I added brushcooling and a full jacket, as mine doesn't have a fan.
Currently it's between jobs, as allmost all my brushed boats have been converted to brushless over the years.
I do miss the unique sound of these screaming motors, though...

As you're not aiming for 'ludicrous speeds' the drag of the waterpickups under the hull won't bother you, but a pressureless system with the inlet and outlet under the hull, flush mounted would eliminate even that little drag (see picture).

What Voltage are you going to use if I may ask?

Regards, Jan.
Aug 20, 2017, 12:46 PM
woodybob's Avatar
Looks bitchin! Nice attention to details Tom.
Aug 20, 2017, 02:04 PM
Grumpa Tom
Kmot's Avatar
Thanks Jan. I intend to run 4S. Just aiming for a nice cruising speed, not at all an "FE".

Thanks Pat!
Aug 20, 2017, 02:10 PM
Grumpa Tom
Kmot's Avatar

Hatch hold down hardware

I needed to figure out a way to hold the hatch down. Using "hatch tape" won't really work on this design. There are a couple of flat areas molded at the rear of the hatch. Using masking tape, I gauged where the area under the hatch was. I used this to determine if I could drill holes for Rivnuts. Turned out I could, so I drilled and installed 4mm Rivnuts at the rear of the hatch. I still have to make a tongue for the front of the hatch.

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