FuriBee X215 PRO 215mm FPV Racing Drone - Owners - Page 16 - RC Groups
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May 14, 2018, 10:19 PM
monkeymagic
QuadifyRC.com's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by QuadifyRC.com
I'll do a write up, give me a couple days and I'll post back here. Essentialy remove the carbon side plates and move them to the inside of the aluminium and replace the from 2 standoffs with 19mm standoffs. Drill new holes in the carbon. Camera is super protected and no frame in view. This came is waaaaay better than the stock CCD one and much lighter too.
Yep just finished a full write up on how to install a Micro Camera and the benefits here:

http://quadifyrc.weebly.com/tips-and...ribee-x215-pro

Single best mod I've dont - now going from light to dark and back doesn't leave me bling for up to 1s each time and I can fly with confidence on days without direct sunlight. Lastly the camera has mega protection with no obstruction to FPV feed.
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May 28, 2018, 03:18 PM
Registered User
Hi all,

I do not have the drone with me, I'm writing up for somebody I know who has the X215 pro and who is kind of a starter. He is trying to make it fly and meets some difficulties.

He suceeded in installing a Flysky receiver (and bound it with a FS-I6X) instead of the original FrSky receiver (long story short, he bought the drone at first with a QX7 frsky but could not bind , put the drone in a drawer, bought another drone with a FS-I6X flysky transmitter, he lost the second drone and now trying to revive his X215 pro)

He described his symptoms as :

- Arming motors OK, then push the throttle but everything goes tits up with the drone going out of control and 1 motor pushing much more than the rest. Sounds like he has an issue of Gyro with the drone, I advised him to first reinitialise everything by Updating betaflight firmware.

The issue here is that he is not sure about what firmware to choose. I think this is a F4 clone of Kakute board but which firmware name he needs to choose precisely ?

Any other advices you would have ? Any youtbe set-up video for betaflight and this specific drone ?

It looks like his drone is not set-up at all, and I think some reinitialisation needs to be doen about his gyroscope, how do I do this the easy way ?

Thank you
Last edited by barthelemy; May 28, 2018 at 03:24 PM.
May 28, 2018, 06:17 PM
Registered User
Very nice camera mod!
May 28, 2018, 11:13 PM
monkeymagic
QuadifyRC.com's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by henryspl
Very nice camera mod!
Cheers Henry. I guess it was you that messaged me on my page? Did you end up doing this yourself?
Latest blog entry: $100 BFight 5" quad FRSKY
May 29, 2018, 03:44 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by barthelemy
Hi all,

I do not have the drone with me, I'm writing up for somebody I know who has the X215 pro and who is kind of a starter. He is trying to make it fly and meets some difficulties.

He suceeded in installing a Flysky receiver (and bound it with a FS-I6X) instead of the original FrSky receiver (long story short, he bought the drone at first with a QX7 frsky but could not bind , put the drone in a drawer, bought another drone with a FS-I6X flysky transmitter, he lost the second drone and now trying to revive his X215 pro)

He described his symptoms as :

- Arming motors OK, then push the throttle but everything goes tits up with the drone going out of control and 1 motor pushing much more than the rest. Sounds like he has an issue of Gyro with the drone, I advised him to first reinitialise everything by Updating betaflight firmware.

The issue here is that he is not sure about what firmware to choose. I think this is a F4 clone of Kakute board but which firmware name he needs to choose precisely ?

Any other advices you would have ? Any youtbe set-up video for betaflight and this specific drone ?

It looks like his drone is not set-up at all, and I think some reinitialisation needs to be doen about his gyroscope, how do I do this the easy way ?

Thank you

Nobody would be able to help here ? The person who has the drone has sent me some screenshot and I saw that Arimode was always enabled, I do beleive that it should not be ?

Also the person is trying to update the betaflight firmware but is unable to do it , the usual No response from bootloader, he has tried loads of solution without success, reading forums and looking at several youtube videos, is there a trick ?

thank you
May 29, 2018, 07:14 PM
monkeymagic
QuadifyRC.com's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by barthelemy
Nobody would be able to help here ? The person who has the drone has sent me some screenshot and I saw that Arimode was always enabled, I do beleive that it should not be ?

Also the person is trying to update the betaflight firmware but is unable to do it , the usual No response from bootloader, he has tried loads of solution without success, reading forums and looking at several youtube videos, is there a trick ?

thank you
The problem you described is not unique to the Fruibee X215 by the sound of it, just a general betaflight setup thing. There are heaps of guides and videos out there but this one is fairly up to date.

https://www.propwashed.com/betafligh...uration-guide/

Gyros don't often fail in my experience. More likely causes of this is that:
  • Props are on the wrong way
  • Motor order wrong
  • Motors spinning wrong direction
  • Gyro is rotated from frame of reference

Before you do anything more take the props off.

Next, in the opening page of betaflight when you first connect check that the image of the quad rolls, pitches and yaws as you move the quad in real life. If that is wrong you will need to tell betaflight that the board is rotated or flipped from it's stock position.

If that is ok go to the motors tab and connect your battery. Make sure as you power up one motor at a time that they are spinning in the direction intended in the diagram AND power up in the same location as the number suggests.

Get the quad going before you try update the firmware rather trying to do everything at once. Nothing from what you've described sounds out of the ordinary and there are simple fixes
Latest blog entry: $100 BFight 5" quad FRSKY
May 30, 2018, 03:18 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by QuadifyRC.com
The problem you described is not unique to the Fruibee X215 by the sound of it, just a general betaflight setup thing. There are heaps of guides and videos out there but this one is fairly up to date.

https://www.propwashed.com/betafligh...uration-guide/

Gyros don't often fail in my experience. More likely causes of this is that:
  • Props are on the wrong way
  • Motor order wrong
  • Motors spinning wrong direction
  • Gyro is rotated from frame of reference

Before you do anything more take the props off.

Next, in the opening page of betaflight when you first connect check that the image of the quad rolls, pitches and yaws as you move the quad in real life. If that is wrong you will need to tell betaflight that the board is rotated or flipped from it's stock position.

If that is ok go to the motors tab and connect your battery. Make sure as you power up one motor at a time that they are spinning in the direction intended in the diagram AND power up in the same location as the number suggests.

Get the quad going before you try update the firmware rather trying to do everything at once. Nothing from what you've described sounds out of the ordinary and there are simple fixes
thanks for the help, I do agree it does not sound like a specific issue to this drone, I will let him try all these, just wanted to make sure there was not something specific about this drone
May 30, 2018, 07:45 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by QuadifyRC.com
Cheers Henry. I guess it was you that messaged me on my page? Did you end up doing this yourself?
Not yet, I still need a different camera.
Jun 03, 2018, 05:48 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by QuadifyRC.com
Cheers Henry. I guess it was you that messaged me on my page? Did you end up doing this yourself?
Hey man, that was actually me that posted on your blog! I haven't gone ahead with this mod yet since I decided to take a different course of action but I will be doing it at some stage in the not too distant future. I've actually been pretty annoyed at my x215 lately and spent AGES setting it up. I received mine in December last year but am only now at the point of being able to fly largely due to not having any spare time to look at the drone... life took over as it does when you have little ones! When I eventually started setting this up last month I carefully went around checking the screws and guess what.... one of the phillips screws attached to camera bloody broke off inside the camera. So not only can I not remove the screw but I had to think about getting a replacement camera. To keep things simple I just wanted to get my drone in the air for my first flight so I began looking for a suitable switch out camera. So I ended up getting one of these on a deal:

My replacement furibee x215 pro camera = Eachine C800T - https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-C80...r_warehouse=CN

It looks pretty damn similar to the original one that shipped with my Furibee x215 but there is one subtle difference... the frame doesn't have pokey out bits for the screws so it didn't fit quite right in my frame. With a bit of head scratching I realised that if I use the metal frame it comes with and then use the screws that ship with furibee x215 (And not the ones that ship with my Eachine Camera) it fits like a dream. A good solid fit. Even has slightly better camera protection. If anyone's interested I can take some pics to show how it looks. You won't guess it isn't the stock camera at first glance. That said... I didn't have a clue what type of screws these were that attached stock camera to drone. The ones that ship with Eachine C800T are too small (they are M2 3mm and some other much longer M2 screws). Well finally I can answer my own question... the stock furibee camera uses M2 4mm screws for mounting to frame. I almost ballsed up by trying to use the long screws that the Eachine camera comes with which would screw right into board and kill the camera before using. Luckily I got away with this mistake by not screwing at all tightly before realising screws were wrong and reading how the eachine camera has no protection for board inside it.

Anyway to help anyone else out who is looking for a simple install camera to replace the stock one. The one I listed can be made to fit quite easily so long as you use the right screws. M2 4mm (the same as as the ones that ship with x215 stock camera.. though I only had one of these left after one of them broke off inside camera!!). I also think the M2 4mm screws are junk with this copter. I replaced both the broken and non broken one. I also noticed just how poor the screw in part is to the stock camera casing... it just fell apart. There is some good news for me though. For 3 I can just buy another Eachine C800 T case and the stock camera's lens and parts transplant perfectly into it. That means I'll now have 2 cameras to kill. It could even just serve as an extra lens if I break Eachine one. So I guess at least I gain a small bonus from a horrible start to quad. I also learnt something else while messing with the camera... Do not turn off WDR in the settings of stock. My screen went grey and I couldn't see menu options at all well. I didn't even realise I had done that. Must have knocked the crappy joystick. I thought the stock camera was dead but then all of a sudden I tried WDR and everything returned. This I discovered after buying new camera. I still can't mount my old stock camera though but at least transplanting the inards is pretty easy.

Realising I needed new parts made me wonder what the entire parts list would be if anything else dies in my quad and what the exact stock replacement part would be (bear in mind I am not saying you should use these... but we all know that these are parts that when working work quite well for this quad in it's best factory default format so make for a simpler fix than experimenting on unknown equipment). In doing this I found the stock camera but I loathe buying stuff from gearbest if I can help it. It still might be useful to others though so here it is:

Stock Replacement Parts List

Camera = AR960H FPV CCD Camera 5 (Out of stock at time of writing) - https://www.gearbest.com/camera/pp_1...ml?wid=1433363
ESCS = 4-in-1 BLHeli - S 30A DShot ESC - https://www.gearbest.com/esc/pp_689046.html?wid=1433363
Flight Controller = "Holybro" Kakute F4 - https://www.gearbest.com/flight-cont...ml?wid=1433363
VTX = UFO TX35B - https://www.gearbest.com/receiver-tr...ml?wid=1433363 .
Receiver = XM+ - https://www.gearbest.com/receiver-tr...ml?wid=1433363
Motors = X215 C2206 2600KV Brushless Motor - https://www.gearbest.com/motor/pp_12...ml?wid=1433363
Buzzer/LED board = https://www.gearbest.com/multi-rotor...ml?wid=1433363
Spare Arm = Original 4mm Carbon Fiber Arm Plate - https://www.gearbest.com/racing-fram...ml?wid=1433363
Frame = X215 Pro Carbon Fiber Frame for RC Drone - https://www.gearbest.com/racing-fram...ml?wid=1433363
Pagoda = Pagoda 2 50mm 5.8G 5dBi RHCP FPV Antenna RED - https://www.gearbest.com/antenna/pp_...ml?wid=1433363
Camera Screws = M2 4mm Screws
Frame Screws = M3 Screws (not sure yet which ones!)

I'm personally starting to believe all x215s ship with clones since the real deal does not look like mine/listed part and all pictures I have seen of flight controller look the same - my clone board does fly well I might add but someone needs to post a proper photo of their genuine holybro board included in their stock x215 for me to be convinced. Am yet to see it despite multiple views of many x215 on youtube etc. I can live with this clone but if anything happens to it during future flights... it's being replaced by the real deal (Holybro Kakute F4 V2 STM32F405 Flight Controller With Betaflight OSD for RC Multirotor FPV Racing Drone - NB this is not the AIO version)!!

Someone mentioned earlier in this thread VTX is one of these UFOs. Whatever it is it's crappy and will need replacing at some point. I feel no love for it. I don't have lines on screen and do have a shield on my VTX unlike other models shipped at a similar time as mine.

I would be very interested to learn from others what a good VTX is to use here. It's something I'll undoubtedly replace. I have heard that AKK FX2 VTX & a Matek one posted earlier in this thread work but I would have loved to try Holybro Atlatl HV until I saw someone else tried one on youtube with bad results. So I would love people's input here.

One other thing I should share is I had major problems with my Taranis X7 trying to flash the XM+ receiver with new firmware so I could take advantage of having RSSI in my betaflight OSD and on channel 8. It wouldn't work no matter what I tried (Bottom s-port, back pins etc... tried all sorts of things). I eventually read that some people are having problems flashing with their Taranis X7's. I think my unit suffers from this. So I gave up and bought a Frsky STK Tool which I installed on a virtual windows 7 on my Mac. With the help of these ( https://www.banggood.com/Test-Clamp-...ampaign=Andyrc ) I was able to upgrade XM+ to being RSSI capable without soldering anything.

I also followed this video which shows how to use those little test clamps as well as setting up a Furibee x215 from scratch (It should really be called how to setup a Furibee x215 - video title doesn't do justice to what an excellent setup guide it is):

How I Review A Quadcopter - X215 Updated Version (34 min 41 sec)


This has been super super helpful for newbie's like me setting up x215 - Newbies should take special note to turn down VTX to lo/low power as shown in this video since by default VTX is set to high and this can lead to burning out VTX just while it is sitting stationary as well as always attach antenna before working on drone or you can also burn out vtx!!! (I had no idea about these things and don't think they are immediately obvious to novices like myself so think it important to share to avoid potential massive upset before first flight!) - Thanks AndyRC for tutorial!! Not perfect but it has formed the base for me doing everything.

Anyway, I wanted to share all my findings in the hope of helping someone else (particularly those who have a broken camera etc needing a like for like replacement x215 camera) and so I can reference this again if I need it!!! It's such a simple camera fix... unplug old camera + remove, put in new camera with metal mount, screw in with 2x M2 4mm screws (the stock camera screws that come with furibee x215) , plug back in with same wire used for stock camera, switch to pal with camera joystick, enjoy.

Everything else though finally is super duper and I am quite happy after my inaugural flight. Plus I have a lot more confidence taking apart the drone and understanding what does what etc. So I guess one crappy screw and a horrid camera menu have served me well in this regard. I've ripped the quad apart countless times and the x215 is my learner quad so it's doing its job a little too well in that regard!!

Update:

I can see a purchase coming. I know these lenses fit from what I've read. QuadifyRC.com was talking about 1.8 lenses and this one would be perfect - https://www.banggood.com/Original-Re...r_warehouse=CN
Last edited by sirprancelot; Jun 08, 2018 at 07:06 PM.
Jun 07, 2018, 04:13 PM
Registered User
sirprancelot, thank you for this info. this was my first quad. i too had many problems with my x215 cam: 1) broke the fc cam jst header via camera motion contact, 2) vid in pad soldered off on fc, 3) broke screw off into camera, 4) camera severed v-in wire 5) camera went gray screen (hoping your wdr comment can solve that, though unsure how to re-enable, is it through bf or camera?). the gray screen ended up being the death of the x215 for me bc i got frustrated late one night and started checking for voltage to the camera with lipo connected and shorted vbat with the usb connector.....ugh. now x215 is feeding parts into the wizard until new x215s arrive (couldnt resist buying a pair for $130usd each including xm+

my X7 also wont update the xm+. i see 5v for a second at the s.port when it tries to flash the xm+, but the receiver doesn't light up. the receiver lights up instantly when i apply 5v otherwise. not sure why it isnt when coming from the X7.

i have found there is a pretty steep learning curve in getting into fpv quad, and with no spare parts and constant crashing (despite my performance on velocidrone) leaves me white knucked on the sticks at the field. (dont crash please dont crash oh god please not the ground not again). i guess the plus side is that my soldering skills are forced to improve.

I've had to replace a some of the M3 screws, so i have been using these: https://www.banggood.com/120PCS-M3-A...r_warehouse=CN

for the hex driver for these M3's, this is my fav (i stripped a lot of the hex heads with low quality bits before finding this one): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Last edited by cashx3r0; Jun 07, 2018 at 04:25 PM.
Jun 08, 2018, 06:21 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by cashx3r0
sirprancelot, thank you for this info. this was my first quad. i too had many problems with my x215 cam: 1) broke the fc cam jst header via camera motion contact, 2) vid in pad soldered off on fc, 3) broke screw off into camera, 4) camera severed v-in wire 5) camera went gray screen (hoping your wdr comment can solve that, though unsure how to re-enable, is it through bf or camera?). the gray screen ended up being the death of the x215 for me bc i got frustrated late one night and started checking for voltage to the camera with lipo connected and shorted vbat with the usb connector.....ugh. now x215 is feeding parts into the wizard until new x215s arrive (couldnt resist buying a pair for $130usd each including xm+

my X7 also wont update the xm+. i see 5v for a second at the s.port when it tries to flash the xm+, but the receiver doesn't light up. the receiver lights up instantly when i apply 5v otherwise. not sure why it isnt when coming from the X7.

i have found there is a pretty steep learning curve in getting into fpv quad, and with no spare parts and constant crashing (despite my performance on velocidrone) leaves me white knucked on the sticks at the field. (dont crash please dont crash oh god please not the ground not again). i guess the plus side is that my soldering skills are forced to improve.

I've had to replace a some of the M3 screws, so i have been using these: https://www.banggood.com/120PCS-M3-A...r_warehouse=CN

for the hex driver for these M3's, this is my fav (i stripped a lot of the hex heads with low quality bits before finding this one): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hey man, I am glad if any of my post is helpful. It's my first quad too but I've been prepared from the beginning to have to fix this fooker up. I recently just did my first soldering job on XM+ which I accidentally yanked cables off while putting back together for the nth time and it works! Thanks to uavfutures (youtube) for his dummy guide. I'm thinking if I can solder (not brilliantly but to a working standard) the xm+ there is hope for me yet for my next venture.. a build from scratch. XM+ solder pads are teeny tiny!

Re your query about WDR - I didn't do this in betaflight but using camera joystick itself. Whoever created the joystick must have been smoking some strong stuff because bottom left for up and bottom right for down makes no sense whatsoever!!! I should say I did do one other thing which may have had an impact since it seemed to change camera mode but it didn't fix the grey issue (though it might have primed getting camera ready for the WDR fix). I would try changing WDR setting first. The extra thing I did relates to what I read for Eachine camera. If you hold the joystick in the bottom left corner for Eachine camera it does change hidden modes and this seem to also apply to the stock camera for x215 (I suspect they use similar hardware or such). This is the exact post (check the attached pic for more detail):
Well, it appeared that Eachine built hidden video mode switch in their C800T cameras. Long pressing on joystick switch to "left" side cycle video modes between AHD-H/TVI/CVI/CVBS. For analog FPV VTX-es and monitors we are using CVBS only. If during camera configuration you suddenly are left with grey screen, press joystick to left (more precisely - left-bottom) and keep it pressed 4-5 seconds until picture will enable back. If you can't succeed in that, remove power from camera. Then switch it on again and try to keep joystick pressed to "left" side again until picture appears.

The funny part is the camera joystick switch itself which is the cheapest crap one I seen so far. Joystick axis are skewed to CCW direction by 45 degrees and joystick switches/contacts are flaky and trigger-happy so it is possible to switch video mode without any thought and wish to do that
.
This combined with setting the WDR option that you can find in video settings on the actual camera itself using the joystick (it's just below the option to switch from PAL to NTSC) seemed to resolve the grey issue for me. I went to seeing nothing to the whole world becoming clear and in colour again I was very surprised to see the camera come back to life. I had assumed that it had had it. Equally don't junk the parts if you don't get it working. The lens on it's own could come in handy and/or you can buy the eachine case and it's quite easy to pop ou the parts (unscrew the lens first, then undo all the screws and use a hex to undo the gold screw in parts, then gently pry the board from casing (I used a little screw driver in the screw holes after removing all and it just popped out).

Re the flashing xm+ with Taranis qx7 - I banged my head against a wall on this over and over and over. Finally read someone saying that lots of people are having problems with flashing using Taranis qx7 and the only way to do it was with a usb tool like frsky tool kit... and I decided my life was worth 10 just to get the USB device. Initially struggled a bit with it (I didn't use the right pins!!) and hated getting drivers setup with windows on my Mac but in retrospect it wasn't that hard. Far far far easier than the Taranis which kept saying no bottom pins detected (and yes I was connecting to the smart port at bottom of taranis as well as those hidden behind panel at back) plus I was nervous to fook around with firmware too much on Taranis since it is worth way more than the silly little xm+ I was trying to update. I really recommend it as an investment (frsky tool kit) if you are struggling like me. Happy to help with that part if you go ahead and buy. Once it works... it just works. Every video i saw made it look so easy and I am quite technically minded. My experience never matched any video I ever saw!!! I was obsessed with getting RSSI in OSD. Always nice when something finally works. I suspect something about my Taranis QX7 is duff or it's to do with open tx firmware and the Taranis QX7 model (I tried on stock firmware and the latest firmware to date from Open TX). Whatever it was, the USB Frsky tool has given me a work around at nominal additional cost. Watch out for Windows 10... the drivers are a bit more complicated to install than for earlier versions. I'm slightly appalled updating firmware is so complicated to figure out and hope to help out anyone else from this total ball ache.

Finally - yes the learning curve is quite steep. Sounds though like you are getting on pretty well! As I said I am quite techi (though a solder and drone virgin) and I find I am having to learn quite a bit to get into this. BNF is a con and a passage to disappointment to those hoping this is a hobby you can just pick up and play. It's more pick up and play... destroy... rebuild or give up. Not helped by the fact that quality control from China for fpv quads is piss poor. That said, I am a man possessed and find the hobby fascinating and really enjoyable. Thank god for Rcgroups offering so much info. It is the best place to learn and get help (along with youtube). All in all I love this drone shenanigans and actually the x215 isn't a bad starting point... so long as you prepare yourself to get down and dirty learning soldering etc.

Thanks for the m3 link btw - does that include all the m3 screws required? Would love to know the exact ones needed. Will update my list if you tell me. If you get a chance let me know! Hope you fix your grey issue. Cheers bud
Last edited by sirprancelot; Jun 08, 2018 at 07:09 PM.
Jun 11, 2018, 06:48 PM
Registered User
Well... I fixed my camera issues and have been LOVING my furibee x215 though still totally overwhelmed by the absolute might of this monster. I mean I happily fly it off (LOS) and then as it's coming back to me and I am turning back around to fly back away from me... it scares the pants off me. Nothing like the sims I practised on though FPV freerider so far has been by far the most helpful since you can practise LOS which is what you need when you first test out the rig.

Anyway... this is a most awesome drone BUT yep the parts are pretty cheap and I managed to bend the bell on one of my motors so it's back out of action. I ripped the engine apart (another learning curve and quickly worked out the problem). I did try to bend it back into shape but nah this is a goner. So I ordered another set of motors from Gearbest (As well as a spare arm while I was at it). They are dirt cheap. But whilst looking around... I realised that I can get some engine protectors which I totally need whilst flying as a learner. The annoying thing is I crashed really from a low height and despite doing all sorts of way more exciting moves... the one lame sluggish hover where I didn't disarm in time... has caused the most damage! I haven't been enjoying having the battery strapped underneath and also saw I could buy some battery protection which I definitely need.

So I have 4 new engines (despite only one being fooked), a spare arm, motor protectors and a battery protector... all on their way to me.. I try to buy most of what I can off banggood or locally on ebay (got the motor protectors and battery protector this way). Everything but the gearbest stuff has shipped. They take forever. It's meant I have bought through impatience... a further additional set of motors from banggood (Dys Wu 2206 2700kv) which will I have no doubt arrive way before gearbest ones. So I fully intend to swap out unbranded x215 motors currently installed and get flying again. Once the gearbest motors arrive I'll decide what to do. I do want to build another quad so having spare motors isn't a bad thing for me. I also do think x215 is fantastic but I can't carry on with this gearbest experience whilst I only have 1 quad. When I order things I would like to see them shipped within a couple of days not sit in the abyss, get excited they have moved to "packed" status, see them sit in the abyss for a further unknown number of days, give up hope, forget about them and eventually find them on my doorstep as I am planning my funeral.

I plan to keep the x215 as learner quad and if the frame takes a total killer blow I'll possibly move innards over to a new similar frame that is more readily accessible (I love the x215 frame style but banggood have some v v similar ones too). I wouldn't be surprised if eventually every single bit of x215 gets moved over into something like GEPRC GEP LX ONE or Realacc D215 215mm. And as parts die I wouldn't be surprised if I eventually swap every part out for better quality parts (i.e. real Holybro FC etc). The quad is excellent and it's doing everything I wanted it to do (give me confidence with flying, fixing and building). But this is a brutal hobby and new parts are needed within a sensible timeframe when you only have 1 quad. That said the x215 is a great frame at a very good price so it depends on impatience levels. I am bound to break something else. My experience so far with FPV is thank god I didn't go with higher quality rig since I would have broken that too!

I'll update what the new motors are like. Quite excited to try them out as well as see how the extra protection performs. If I am lucky and with extra protection x215 survives longer than anticipated then I have no plans to get rid of it. I LOVE it but as I have proven so far... parts due to pilot learner skills/poor build quality are dying v fast and unfortunately gearbest is taking centuries to post in stock parts . Will report back once my DYS and protectors are installed!
Last edited by sirprancelot; Jun 11, 2018 at 07:51 PM.
Jun 13, 2018, 02:30 PM
Fan of microElectroRfIT

furibeeX215 adapter for micro swift camera


hi.
for anyone interested . . i have designed an adapter for the micro sized cameras like runcam micro swift
furibeeX215 adapter for micro swift camera
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2958220
i was testing the old camera position and i didnt like the fact that it was too far back so i could see the frame.
Please give me some feedback if something needs changing.
Cheers
Jun 13, 2018, 03:47 PM
Corsair Captain
Quote:
Originally Posted by yo8aiv
hi.
for anyone interested . . i have designed an adapter for the micro sized cameras like runcam micro swift
furibeeX215 adapter for micro swift camera
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2958220
i was testing the old camera position and i didnt like the fact that it was too far back so i could see the frame.
Please give me some feedback if something needs changing.
Cheers
I like that it gets the frame out of the view, but at the same time the camera is more vulnerable. That hasn't always stopped me either though. I just tell myself not to crash.
Jun 13, 2018, 04:21 PM
Fan of microElectroRfIT
Quote:
Originally Posted by garryk
I like that it gets the frame out of the view, but at the same time the camera is more vulnerable. That hasn't always stopped me either though. I just tell myself not to crash.
yep. same here.
that's why i made also 2 versions with a front cover and a neck/tube to protect the lens.
if needed i can further improve those.
cheers.

Updated thing files ! - more choice. see thingiverse !!
Last edited by yo8aiv; Jun 14, 2018 at 03:01 AM. Reason: Updated thing files ! - more choice.


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