Canterbury # 598 - Page 6 - RC Groups
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Nov 14, 2017, 06:57 PM
Modeler/ Historian
Stephen Vick's Avatar
Looks fantastic! Can't wait to see her finished...
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Nov 14, 2017, 07:36 PM
Registered User
Ed Crowell's Avatar
Excellent joints. Looks really good.

Ed
Nov 14, 2017, 09:10 PM
Registered User
I REALLY like the way those beveled edges came out, looks awesome!!! Good work!
Dec 06, 2017, 01:50 PM
Registered User
tinknocker's Avatar
Hi Guys Question I saw a post on someones thread about a launcher for the CJ's and for the life of me I can't find it. The old knees won't allow for bending down anymore so I would greatly appreciate some help in finding it again. It was PVC and looked like it would make launching and retrieving a lot easier. Thanks for any help.

Doug
Dec 06, 2017, 02:52 PM
Kevin Gault
poltergeist's Avatar
Doug,

Here's a link to the post on Ed Crowell's C-J launcher. I've seen it in use in person and it works very well!!! https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=262

Glad to see your boat coming along nicely!

Kevin
C-J #551
Dec 06, 2017, 03:36 PM
If it floats....sail it!
FoamCrusher's Avatar
Doug:

I would not use PVC, even Schedule 40, since it will get brittle as it ages and you never know when it will fail and drop your boat.

Use either 1/2" copper water pipe, or the grey 3/4" plastic pipe used for direct burial of electrical lines. As long as the joints are well soldered, copper is the best, and of course, the most $$$$, But, then, what is your boat worth?
Dec 06, 2017, 09:31 PM
Registered User
tinknocker's Avatar
You guys are the best. I can't tell you how much time I spent looking for the launcher. Thanks much for the link. It will make life a lot easier.


Steve Point taken. The grey plastic sounds like the way to go. The copper aside from the expense might be little on the heavy side, I never gave a thought to the fact that PVC might turn brittle with time. Thanks. As a bit of an aside The US 1 meter that you helped me with was a huge success. The original owner was so excited to be able to sail it again, something he never expected to do again.

Doug
Dec 07, 2017, 03:34 PM
Registered User
tinknocker's Avatar
The hull is pretty much finished. Now for the rigging. Kind of flying by the seat of my pants, looking at every picture of your boats trying to figure out measurements and dimensions. I have ordered and received the sails from Rod Carr. I shot myself in the foot by getting the "B" set instead of the "A" but I have time to get that fixed by springtime. Any suggestions would be more than welcome at this point. Thanks.

Doug #598
Dec 08, 2017, 01:49 AM
Yosef Sailor
dwatson's Avatar
Beautiful!

How did you make the hand rails?

DW
Dec 08, 2017, 09:11 AM
Registered User
tinknocker's Avatar
The railings came from leftover deck planks. 1/16" bass. A round file made the radius of the openings and xacto knife cut the straight. It was all eyeball calculations. Minwax red chestnut is the color.

Doug
Dec 09, 2017, 12:46 PM
If it floats....sail it!
FoamCrusher's Avatar
Doug:

Be careful with the brand of blocks that are on your servo arm when using small diameter lines. I tried using them with 60 lb test spectra and the line would get caught between the cheek and the sheave, either stalling the servo and overheating it, or breaking the line. (With 120 lb test it will tear out the radio board )

It was a choice between using larger diameter line or different blocks and I went with Hales brand that have a sheave that is recessed into the cheeks so the line canít jam.

You may be OK, but just be aware of the possible problem.

Steve
Dec 09, 2017, 02:42 PM
Registered User
tinknocker's Avatar
Thanks Steve. These are Sailtec 10 mm. I have used them in the past but that was heavier line. If there are problems I will change them out with Hales.
Dec 09, 2017, 06:01 PM
Kevin Gault
poltergeist's Avatar
In my opinion Doug, blocks at the ends of the sail arm are overkill on boats the size of the C-J. For aluminum arms, I've just always made sure the holes in the ends of the arm are well chamfered and polished smooth. On carbon fiber arms, I cut a slot and insert and glue in a stainless thimble. In my mind, a lot less to tangle, and not very much more friction.

Kevin
C-J #551
Dec 09, 2017, 09:31 PM
Registered User
tinknocker's Avatar
Kevin I followed your thread before building mine, awesome boat. Looking at yours I can see that I have over built mine. At this time I am trying to work out the measurements for the fittings on the mast such as the spreader and jib attachment point. Are there fixed measurements for these points? Thanks again for your interest in my build.

Doug
Dec 10, 2017, 01:03 AM
Kevin Gault
poltergeist's Avatar
Doug,

Spreaders are unrestricted in the rules (except that, if you use them you can only have one set). In fact, I think some of the New Zealand C-J's don't use spreaders at all.

Mine are 1/8" I.D. brass tubing (which is way bigger than they need to be...if I were going to redo my mast, I would go with much smaller diameter stainless spreaders) My spreaders on the A-Rig are about 2.75" long, and they are approx half way between the foot of the mast and the jib stay intersection near the top of the mast. If you look at the "Mast and Sail dimensions" drawing in the rules on page #9 here: http://theamya.org/boats/canterburyj/CJRules.pdf , the jibstay intersection with the mast has to be between "H" minus "I" above the deck level. Essentially the jib stay attachment to the mast has to be between 54.92" and 55.32" above the deck level. I think these numbers were converted from the metric measurements in the NZL class rules, which explains the silly fractional numbers. Basically you're "safe" if the jibstay attachment is 55" above the deck level (for the A-rig)

Hope that makes some sense.

Kevin


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