Expresscraft's new series - Page 3 - RC Groups
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Aug 20, 2017, 05:45 AM
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Our hulls will be heavier then a ABS plastic boat. but sometimes in boats the weight is good. I really look forward to your build and what you choose to use. I know Electric from 1/10 th car racing but I raced more then did the work on them, I was fortunate enough to have a 28ft air conditioned trailer that I used for road racing bikes, That I had some of the states best racers pit with me. Also owning a hobby shop helped. I have never minded the help of experts. Sure i was able to help new customers get going, But its hard to know more then everyone about every thing.I can talk trains, plastic models, helicopters, jets,Rockets,even large ones,planes and am pretty good on gas boats, but electric has made a lot of changes in the last 10 years and my hobby shop days were over in 2009. So I am in the learning phase. LOL so do good Bob, I am learning from you.
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Aug 20, 2017, 12:13 PM
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Robert Pulse's Avatar
Im guessing the kyosho motors are going to be to small but Im going to test them anyway.
Bob
Sep 01, 2017, 06:31 PM
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Well Robert bought the 310 and there was a problem with the deck, I sent him another one that was laid up heavier. and he sent it back as he decided what ever was wrong with the first one he could make it work. These are hand laid fiberglass parts. and I do not take the time needed to fit the deck and hull perfect. we leave materiel (flashing) as it can be removed. Those that are better modelers then me would not be happy with my seam work, We leave it as flashing can be removed but harder to add. We are getting boats that we are known for Ordered and will be behind on keeping up soon. I was hoping these models would be wanted more, I also know Augast is the worst month to try and get business up and going again. We will make some of the other small boats we make and post them, But for right now. we have big boat orders to fill. I do look forward to seeing Roberts build come to life on the 310.
Sep 02, 2017, 12:30 AM
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Robert Pulse's Avatar

Searay 310


Just so you know Im good.
I have ordered and recieved all the drive systems except for the motors. I have removed all but a 1/4" of the passenger compartment floor to give me access to a battery compartment and radio. I have also made a ply floor to replace the opening. The mini v outdrives look fairly good considering their toyish appearance.
I couldnt find stuffing tubes to fit the drive shafts as they are part of the mini v hull, but found aluminum tube that they fit. Im a little concerned about the heat generated but maybe with a little run in with a dremel and super fine sandpaper I can reduce the size enough to make them work. (Metric shafts from the mini v with metal u-joints from a proboat apache.) Im looking at 370 -380 size motors, Dynamite speed control and spectrum dx2 radio with a mini servo for rudder control. Im thinking of painting the sides of the hull grey or black to show off the graphics with interior seat and sundeck trim to match. Anyway that is where Im at.
The only thing you might consider is leaving the final triming of the flash on the deck and hull to the builder, like the last 1/8"
Bob
Last edited by Robert Pulse; Sep 02, 2017 at 12:43 AM.
Sep 02, 2017, 06:32 AM
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Bob I did and do feel that we are all good. I also am ok with learning myself. i wanted to post that these are just foundation pieces so that part would be clear. I was kind of thinking about resin models compared to plastic models. They are a lot of work but of subject matter not available in plastic model kits. In today's RTR world I also think a lot of modelers might be ok with that but are not thinking that when buying. So I just wanted to make it clear. for information to others that might be looking. Shooting straight has always worked well for me. Sure making the sale is always good. But satisfied customers are the real best way to making the sales.
Sep 02, 2017, 05:58 PM
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Robert Pulse's Avatar

Outdrives


Im trying to decide placement of the mini v outdrives. The mini v had the props about half way below the bottom of the hull. Im using two of them so not sure how far down to go. I might go look at a couple real boats to see placement.
Unless someone here has a brilliant idea. I threw the doner mini v away so I cant look at it.
Anyone have one they can take a picture of the transome?
Bob

Looking at pictures of real boats the props are below the bottom of the hull.
Last edited by Robert Pulse; Sep 02, 2017 at 08:24 PM.
Sep 03, 2017, 05:40 AM
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for guesstamating I would split the prop, maybe with a little biased to sub surface instead of complete surface drive. the high RPM small prop will probably cavitate with to much load to push, Remember the boat is just Fiberglass and is easy to fix. basically the deeper the prop the more prop you have, until it's overloaded.
Sep 09, 2017, 12:52 AM
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Robert Pulse's Avatar
Hoping your in a safe place and have your bases covered. Good luck
Bob
Sep 13, 2017, 04:51 AM
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Thank you, We came out very good and are back to building today. just joined a boat last night and will be spraying some gel coat this morning. I also did get the deck back. I hope you are doing good with the one you kept. I do have a few more smaller boats to show, But we just have to fit them in. Most Important is boating is good.
Sep 16, 2017, 10:34 AM
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Just kicking around on RCG I found a pro boat react 17. It's a 17" boat that goes 19 mph and comes with everything to run and play with for 99.00. I wonder how its power a 380 brushed motor and hardware would work on one of these heavier bigger hulls that do not need to see 20 mph . I am going to look more to see if there is a little bigger boat up the same ally. 99.00 for the running gear including radio is pretty nice though, much cheaper then buying one part at a time.


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