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Oct 21, 2019, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ooOoo
If HH would release some new, interesting UMX planes I probably would buy more of them, but the selection of UMX planes is a bit stale currently.



Yep, mine are the 300's. From Roger I have 330mah 2s, 240mah 3s, and 500mah 2s. The 500mah 2s gives an incredible flight time when used in my lil Timber!
Babbel gets a lotta good press on this site. Looks like they are almost twice the price. Are they really that good?
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Oct 21, 2019, 09:42 AM
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bhoov128's Avatar
All of my Babbelbatts, earliest of which were purchased in something like 2013, are still working fine. You make the call
Oct 21, 2019, 11:06 AM
If it Works, You Better Fix It
VelocityRC's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugo Flynow
I learned of them from RC Car Action mag...which raved about them...but like most RC magazines...they never met a car, plane or accessory they didn't love....for fear of insulting their advertisers or jeopardizing free stuff.
That's where I learned about them. Well is sounds like a resounding NO on Max Amps. I thought if I had the $$$, which I don't I'd try a set. Guess not. Heck, folks are winning NATS with HK Graphenes

Bill S.
Oct 21, 2019, 11:26 AM
Fly Planes, Be Happy 😜
ooOoo's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by SCarolinaCy
Babbel gets a lotta good press on this site. Looks like they are almost twice the price. Are they really that good?
I don't have enough experience with Babblebats to have an opinion one way or the other, but in my limited use with them they seem good. I've only done a few easy flights trying to break them in, so again I have very little hands on experience with them. Bhoov128 has used them for quite a while and he flies stuff pretty hard sometimes. He's also honest enough to tell us if they are junk or not.

My personal opinion plays out like this - if you are an occasional flyer about once or twice a month and don't demand every little bit of power possible and you are cost-conscious about what you buy then I think the Nano-Tech 300mah 2s batteries are fine. If you are in this game for the long haul, fly a once or twice a week and/or demand every little bit of power the plane can make then the Babblebats would certainly be worth considering. Another thing to remember is that Babblebats can be charged at a 5C rate with no problem, so you can buy fewer batteries and operate on a charge/fly/recharge/fly/recharge...etc schedule. You'd need fewer batteries because of how quickly they can charge.
Oct 21, 2019, 12:00 PM
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bhoov128's Avatar
I have had a lot of different batteries for UMX planes. I have many UMX planes....

Off the top of my head, since I'm at work, here are the majority of the batteries ranked by how much I prefer them
  1. Thunderpower 325mAh G6 Pro 2S Even after 4 years of use and ownership, STILL charges at 12C (that's right lipo scaredycats, 12C) and outperformed brand new Babbelbatt 600s in a thrust test. Best battery I own and unfortunately, is not made nor is available anymore, and I only own ONE. :CRYING:
  2. Babbelbatt 330mAh 2S My most-flown battery, period, hands down, one went through the dryer and puffed, and STILL hauled the mail. Used in UMX (everything, but mainly Beast, Sbach, CC, Timber) and a Twisted Hobbys 32" EPP profile 3D plane - MXS-C. Probably a good 4 to 500 cycles even after being damaged!
  3. Babbelbatt 600mAh 2S BEASTS, but heavy. 2nd best (very close!) in the thrust test. UMX Aero Commander perfection. Work great in the UMX Timber for long flights but the back of the battery needs to be placed carefully or it could interfere with the onboard servos.
  4. Babbelbatt 500mAh 2S "Bladderbuster" 25 minute flights with the UMX Carbon Cub... what else can I say.
  5. Hyperion CX 240mAh 2S Dependable, good power, relatively inexpensive, and used to be readily available on amazon. I fly these a LOT in Beast, Sbach, P-51, P-47.
  6. Nanotech 300mAh 2S UMX These worked surprisingly good for a surprisingly long time. Unfortunately, one has to support HobbyKing :PUKE: to purchase them, or else get ripped off by resellers on eBay. They're like $5 each on HK. It pains me to say that it's probably the best value for $ if you're just cruising UMX planes around and not actively looking for best performance for $.
  7. Kinexsis 300mAh flat packs - I really like these for my UMX Icon A5, they're a perfect fit in that horrible battery hatch and they run great in its lower power application. They don't fit in all of the planes though so limited use.
  8. Nanotech 240mAh 2S UMX. Not very good. Flown in UMX Sbach and Beast and lasted maybe 50 or 100 cycles before a very noticeable degradation
  9. Nanotech 180mAh 2S UMX. TRASH. All 4 I purchased lasted less than 10 cycles before being junk. Only used in home-made profile 2mm Depron foamies with UMX electronics and the UMX Extra 300 3D for ultra lightweight.

Not part of the listing are the 3S 180mAh Babbelbatts for my UMX P-47. It's the only plane I run on 3S and it's a monster, 3S did the trick to wake that plane up and still let me keep the 4-bladed propeller for scale beauty. These are the oldest Babbelbatts I still have and they work great, although admittedly they don't have a lot of cycles on them.

Also not part of the listing are the Graphene 950s that I use in the UMX A-10, they're quite good but way too heavy for any other plane. Even the Aero Commander doesn't feel very nice using them, although I am able to make them fit.

TLDR; FRAT;
Babbelbatt 330mAh batteries, in my opinion, are the best batteries you can purchase for small aircraft. PERIOD.
Oct 21, 2019, 12:37 PM
Hugo Flynow's Avatar
Venom also makes 300mah 2s UMX lipos that have a standard balance cable, JST plug, and Elfite UMX plug all sticking out of one lipo.

They are not that great though.

For the money the Nano 300's are a great buy. One day I should try some Babblebatts...but I'm cheap. But it seems you get what you pay for.
Oct 21, 2019, 02:43 PM
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dcrave's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboparker
Regarding LVC - it's no hypothesis of mine. It's basic 'battery 101' & Ohm's Law stuff, which is taught in EVERY SINGLE electronics class in the entire world. As I noted, LVC reacts to the pack's LOADED voltage. What somebody measures when they remove the pack after a flight is UNLOADED voltage. HUGE difference between the two measurements. If you're flying with a saggy pack, it will hit LVC early when you pull a lot of current - but the UNLOADED voltage you measure after the flight will be MUCH higher. This is basic Ohm's Law stuff. And it is a well-known fact that many RC battery manufacturers blatantly lie about the discharge C-ratings of their packs. So, just because it may say 30C on the pack, it doesn't necessarily mean you can pull that much current without the pack falling flat on its face in the process. Furthermore, discharging below 80% and/or allowing the loaded voltage to sag to anywhere near close to 3.3V will dramatically increase the internal resistance of the pack - which will make it hit LVC even earlier the next time. Again - this is no hypothesis of mine. Rather - it is well-proven, well-known, basic 'battery 101' stuff - based on absolute facts of battery-chemistry & the laws of physics.

The reason some Inductrix pilots are hitting LVC even though they read 4V/cell UNLOADED after the flight is because they're flying with really crappy packs that have very high internal resistance - and therefore sag excessively under load. When the load is removed, the measured voltage recovers. It's as simple as that.

Joel
I know this is an old post but I think it explains what I experienced yesterday with my Timber. I was using an unknown history e-flite 2S 280mAh pack someone threw in with another plane. Early on with a full charge the engine cut out, assuming it was due to a LVC condition I moved the throttle to off and then gave it throttle again, the engine came back on. This happened one more time in the flight so I landed early and the pack when measure was 3.68 and 3.74. That pack has now gone in the discard pile after discharging it. I flew twice afterwards with newer batteries without any problem.

It wasn't a problem in this case because the plane was close , glides so well and wasn't the first time to experience it. Previously I wasn't so fortunate as I was using a questionable pack on a warbird. 3rd pass turning into the wind the motor cut out and the best I could do was a hard landing into the wind. Lesson learned, when packs start giving warning signs it's time to retire them.
Oct 22, 2019, 03:01 PM
I'd rather be flying!
turboparker's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhoov128
I have had a lot of different batteries for UMX planes. I have many UMX planes.... ......Babbelbatt 330mAh batteries, in my opinion, are the best batteries you can purchase for small aircraft. PERIOD.
+1k! My experience has been the same - except I haven't tried the Kinexsis or Nano 300s, and I haven't tried the Graphenes.

I still have the same ancient TP 325 65C packs from way back when - and they still pull serious current with very little sag! Like you, I also charge 'em at the full rating! You're gonna hate me though. I still have EIGHT of Roger's TP 325 65C BabbelBatts & they're still in excellent condition!

Still have a couple 3s 2200s of the same series of TP packs. They're still in good shape & they've always been charged @ 5C.

I know I have hundreds of cycles on each of Roger's TP 325s, and I have over 100 cycles on each of the TP 3s 2200s. Based on performance under load & their crazy cycle-life, those TPs are unquestionably the best LiPos I've ever used.

My experience with Roger's Hyperion-based BabbelBatts has also been the same as yours - although the sizes I have are a bit different. Love the Bladderbuster in my UMX CC! I also have one of his Hyp 400s, plus one of his longer/skinnier Hyp 320s from back when. Still have a couple of his original 2s Hyp 240 BabbelBatts, too. And I have one of his Hyp 850s with the red JST power connector & separate balance-plug. Bought it for my UMX A-10, but then totaled the Hog before she ever saw any air under her wings - when I knocked her off the table, broke the wing in half, broke the fuse in 3 places, and broke the horizontal stab. Don't think I could've done much more damage by flying her right into the ground!

Still wringing my hands over either putting the internals in a new airframe or buying another Hog...

Still have a few old homebrew 2s Hyp 240s & 3s Hyp 180s that I made before Roger started making his BabbelBatts, and they're in good shape, too.

Have yet to maiden my UMX Timber - but I'm hoping that Roger's Hyp 400 & his Hyp 500 Bladderbuster will also be good for those long flights!

Joel
Latest blog entry: RealFlight 9
Oct 22, 2019, 03:14 PM
I'd rather be flying!
turboparker's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcrave
I know this is an old post but I think it explains what I experienced yesterday with my Timber. I was using an unknown history e-flite 2S 280mAh pack someone threw in with another plane. Early on with a full charge the engine cut out, assuming it was due to a LVC condition I moved the throttle to off and then gave it throttle again, the engine came back on. This happened one more time in the flight so I landed early and the pack when measure was 3.68 and 3.74. That pack has now gone in the discard pile after discharging it. I flew twice afterwards with newer batteries without any problem.

It wasn't a problem in this case because the plane was close , glides so well and wasn't the first time to experience it. Previously I wasn't so fortunate as I was using a questionable pack on a warbird. 3rd pass turning into the wind the motor cut out and the best I could do was a hard landing into the wind. Lesson learned, when packs start giving warning signs it's time to retire them.
Yup! Sounds like a textbook example of a "saggy" pack that's starting to die, due to one or more cells developing high internal resistance. Glad to hear that you were able to land the Timber without incident. Too bad you weren't as lucky with the warbird. Warbirds with higher wing-loadings aren't very forgiving in an "engine-out" situation. I use nothing but my best packs in my electric warbirds for that reason. Ditto for my unlimited aerobatic planes - because even a tiny amount of voltage-sag @ WOT equates to a SIGNIFICANT decrease in thrust-to-weight. Sorta like putting 87 octane gas in a hotrod that needs 100 octane....

Joel
Latest blog entry: RealFlight 9
Oct 22, 2019, 03:22 PM
Registered User
dalecheek1's Avatar
My 2 packs have been saggy for a while now. They pretty much stay at storage level now as it takes days just to get a full charge....
Oct 22, 2019, 03:46 PM
Registered User
Coptafeel's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by dalecheek1
My 2 packs have been saggy for a while now. They pretty much stay at storage level now as it takes days just to get a full charge....
....and when ya go to use them do they always seem to discharge pre-maturely?
Oct 22, 2019, 04:30 PM
I'd rather be flying!
turboparker's Avatar
ROFL! Only took 24 minutes for somebody to go there! Was wondering how long it was gonna take....

Joel
Latest blog entry: RealFlight 9
Oct 22, 2019, 05:10 PM
I'd rather be flying!
turboparker's Avatar
And then......today happens to be national nut day here in the US!! https://nationaldaycalendar.com/nati...ay-october-22/

I expect Dale & a few other denizens of the thread to feel honored!

Joel
Latest blog entry: RealFlight 9
Oct 22, 2019, 05:41 PM
Registered User
Lol!
Oct 22, 2019, 05:43 PM
Roger that!
Quote:
Originally Posted by VelocityRC
That's where I learned about them. Well is sounds like a resounding NO on Max Amps. I thought if I had the $$$, which I don't I'd try a set. Guess not. Heck, folks are winning NATS with HK Graphenes

Bill S.
Agreed, Max-Amps are some of the worst lipos and way over-priced! Puff quicker too.


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