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Jul 30, 2017, 09:33 AM
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Build Log

Durafly Me-163 Komet rebuild

Let me start my saying the Me-163 Komet was one of my favorite planes when I was a kid. At the time I did some R/C but mostly F/F rubber scale (what's that?). I never dreamed I'd ever fly an R/C Komet.

When I got back into the hobby at the very start of 2015, I was amazed at the "foamie" offerings. By fall, I decided I'd learned enough about flying to try the v2 Komet (#1), which I flew-crashed-repaired-flew-crashed-repaired-flew for about a month.

Along the way I learned a few things and decided to buy new wings and fuselage and transfer the guts, and also experiment with a partial repaint and some new markings that I did. After a maiden takeoff tumble (which I repaired with good cosmetic results), I had good luck flying this Komet (#1.5) until I went long on final approach and managed to deposit the model the top of the tallest tree. The canopy/hatch (only) came down eventually and I was glad to get it as I'd spent some time repainting the pilot and adding some details.

I think my next Komet (#2) was one I got on a super sale, and I did more experimenting with repaint and my own markings. I flew this one a lot, had some bang-ups, repairs, etc., but in general it flew fine until it just got a little too scruffy for me to look at, so I put it away.

I remembered I had a full set of parts stashed away, and decided to build a new Komet which was repainted except for the underside blue and my did my own (and different markings), Yellow 7. That model turned out very nicely, has been flying well and often, and so far no damage at all (I'll get into the how and why of that). So I guess this was Komet #3...

And finally we come to the main subject of this build log -- I decided to rebuild the "scruffy" Komet when Hobby King ran a recent sale where the wing set was like ten dollars. I wanted to try a different scheme involving more airbrushing and incorporate a few things I've learned along the way. Maybe my trials and tribulations will help one of you. If you are looking for tips on how to go faster, or install POV, this is not the thread for you! I have been flying the stock motor on 3s and with smaller lipos, go more than fast enough with unlimited vertical.
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Jul 30, 2017, 09:59 AM
It's all about scale models!
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Salvaging The Old Fuselage

Now to the subject of this thread, #2 of my Komets. This is a total rebuilt of my flow/repaired/flown, but now quite scruffy-looking Komet. I'd been thinking I should just sell it cheap at a club swap meet. But then Hobby King had this pretty amazing sale a couple of weeks ago, and the wing set was amazingly cheap, $11.00 I think. They did not have any fuselages in the US, or I'd have just gotten one. But my original fuselage, aside from some of the usual stress creases near the front, was intact, so I decided to work with that.

The first job was getting the old wings off without damaging the fuselage. It's also important to get the solid CF spars out of those panels intact, as you cannot buy those parts separately -- they only come with the "unpainted kit". As many of you Komet owners probably know, a hard tumble will result in wing panel cracks near the wing root. I've seem some guys even post about "reinforcing with more CF rods". Having pulled a wing panel apart, I can assure you this is not necessary -- there are two full-length CF tube spars in each panel, and unless one of those is cracked (unlikely), the wing is still fine even if the foam is cracked.

Next, I pulled all the decals (sorry, I don't like the term "stickers" when talking about models. Graphics or decals. I've read some guys found that acetone will remove the paint without hurting the foam. This is true, but it didn't seem to work very fast or well -- this was probably the result of multiple coats of Minwax Polycrylic satin. Plus acetone is nasty stuff. I decided to wet sand with 220 to get most of the paint off. Then I proceeded to patch any defects or creases with Dap vinyl spackle --just the plain stuff (not "lightweight" or "primer added"). I mix in a few drops of polycrylic which helps with adhesion. After sanding, the areas that had a rough surface texture received multiple coats off plycrylic and light sanding.

Next, I primered the fuselage/rudder with Testor s flat dark gray (spray can). I'm sure there are many gray primers that will work and probably cost less. I've just used this paint a lot and know what to expect.
Last edited by MrSmoothie; Jul 31, 2017 at 10:16 AM.
Jul 30, 2017, 10:15 AM
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The real Komet airframe was built by several sub-contractors and then final-assembled. This apparently accounts for color schemes where the wings and fuselage were quite different. I was leaning toward such a scheme, and this gave me an excuse to completely finish paint the fuselage before the new wing panels even arrived.

I really like working with Tamaya acrylics -- they are really easy to airbrush, requiring only a little thinning with windex. Even the jars are nice with easy to open caps that seal well (unlike Model Master acrylics). Way back in the Durafly Komet thread, somebody had suggested the following colors as being decent matches for the kit scheme: XF-23 Blue (light blue), XF-5 Green (med. green), and XF-62 Olive Drab (brown). I had previously found that with a little mixing and matching I could do nearly invisible repairs on my earlier crashed Komets. We could get into an entire debate on the exact colors the Luftwaffe was using in 1945 (RLM numbers and their precise interpretation), but I'll leave that for the plastic modelers! One thing that's nice about using stock "out of the bottle" colors is that it makes touch ups and repairs so much easier when no color matching is required.

I spend entirely too much time going through reference sources trying to find the "perfect" color scheme that meets all my criteria. I found a Hasegawa 1/32 Komet build for "White 10" that I liked quite a bit, with a full mottled fuselage scheme. Then I found a profile for a similar scheme (by artist Claes Sundin) for White 18. I decided to paint the fuselage so that it would work for either once I made my decision.

First, the entire fuselage and rudder was sprayed with XF-23 Blue. Mottling would be with XF-5 Green and XF-62 Olive Drab, with the green going first.

A few thoughts on this -- first, spraying "random" patterns is never as easy as it looks. I spent a good chunk of a day doing this. When you look at as many photos of real Komets as I have, you'll see that many were done quite poorly (late war, and often done at airfields). In fact, if I was to copy one of those schemes, it might look like I wasn't a very good airbrusher! I've noticed the plastic modelers are often far more artistic with their interpretations of Komet mottling.

Second (I learned this from Rob Caso's - Casor - video series: "thin" the mottling colors with clear media. I added some Polycrylic to the color. The reason is that you will spray color that doesn't cover completely and means you have to build up the color a little a time. This makes it far more forgiving and subtle than if you try spraying 100% color. Trust me, Rob is right about this.

Third, with two color mottling, as you paint the first color, you have to leave space for the second color! This is harder than it seems. If you've never done it before, practice on a piece of cardboard instead of you model.

After the green mottling was applied, then I filled in the spaces with olive drab. Then it's a little back and forth between colors to fill gaps or fix what I perceive as "mistakes" (even though there was no such thing on real Komets).

Once satisfied, I hit the fuselage with several fairly "wet" coats of satin Polycrylic When sprayed "wet" it definitely has more gloss (which we wouldn't want in the final result). Why then? Another trick of the plastic modelers -- when the graphics are applied, they will adhere much better to the smoother shinier surface. The final sheen will be determined after application of the graphics (more later).
Last edited by MrSmoothie; Jul 31, 2017 at 10:15 AM.
Jul 30, 2017, 10:35 AM
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The Cockpit

While waiting for my replacement wing panels to arrive, I decided to work on some cockpit detailing. Cockpit detailing adds a lot to a foamie as it provides a point to focus upon instead of various small flaws or foamie compromises. On the other hand, I've learned that past a point, you can't really see all that much under the canopy and few people at the field even seem to notice. I think we do cockpit details more for ourselves than anything.

I have a love-hate relationship with the Durafly pilot provided. In the past I'd determined that this Komet was almost exactly 1/10 scale, and the pilot was quite accurate for 1/10 scale. However, I hated the painting on the pilot -- he looks like zombie. It's also molded from some mystery rubber-like material. Removing the paint is tough as is overpainting it -- I've tried different ways. This time I sprayed the pilot with Testors flat gray which seemed to adhere fairly well, and then repainted with Tamaya flat acrylics, which adhere well to the enamel primer without "attacking" it, as more enamel would. Referencing photos of Komet pilots, I painted the helmet tan and the flight suit (supposedly a protective rubber-coated fabric) gray and detailed the goggles and oxygen mask.

There is a very distinctive element above the instrument panel, which (on the real aircraft) surrounded a thick piece of bulletproof glass. This looks like it was welded from 8 parts. I devised a pattern, which I taped to .030 styrene. The lines between panels were lightly scored, and then the part cut out. Then it was carefully bent to shape (only one bend on the scored parts, or the plastic would snap apart). I made a jig of sorts from foam with the cockpit hatch outline, to position the part to final shape, and then CA was applied to each of the scored seams to solidify. This was then airbrushed.

The cockpit interior suffered from the dreaded "popcorn" effect, which I hate. So I sanded the surfaces as much as I could, and then lined the cockpit with .020 and .030 panels, which were airbrushed dark gray before installing. The "floor", however, was flat black to create the illusion of depth.

The instrument panel was a simplified rendering based on actual photos, and printed out to thick paper, and then attached to styrene sheet using "rubber cement" tape (used by framers). This is great stuff that I have used for many years -- the adhesive never seems to give up -- I'm still using rolls that are decades (seriously) old!

A gunsight and adjacent instrument were fashioned from wood, aluminum tubing and plastic, painted and mounted. The headrest and seatback were made from foam sheet (leftover container) and airbrushed.
Last edited by MrSmoothie; Jul 31, 2017 at 10:14 AM.
Jul 30, 2017, 11:25 AM
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Wing Panels

I opted to replace the wing panels for a couple of reasons. Firs,t I had tumbled this plane previously. In fact, I believe I had a takeoff mishap on the maiden flight requiring some epoxy in the wing root ares, followed by airbrushing with carefully matched acrylic. Second, HK had a remarkable sale a couple of weeks ago and the wings were dirt cheap. So cheap, I tried to get two sets, but apparently got the last set they had.

In any event, after the weekend it took to get the fuselage to near-new condition, it's nice to start with new parts.

The wing panels come with nothing -- no solid CD root spar, no covers for the servo wiring tracts, no horns. I'm not a big fan of the "tape" used for covering servo tracts or (on this model) the juncture of wing panel to fuselage. In fact, I've left the root covering off of each Komet that I've made from parts and if care is taken when gluing, I think this looks much nicer.

While my old servos seemed to work fine, I just think it's smart to put in new servos when doing this much work. I chose 12gm metal gear Emax servos from HeadsUpRC (a great mail-order resource) and used Foam-Tac to glue them in place. After running the harnesses, I made covers from .010 styrene strips, 3/8" wide, to which I'd previously applied "rubber cement" tape. Thus, they were "peel and stick" after trimming to length. Servo covers are also from .010 styrene, although here I like to use Formula 560 Canopy Glue around the edges. I think it's fantastic glue for many applications.

One thing I've learned from previous Komets is that the small teardrop-shaped "skid" bumps under the wing tips really take a beating. Some guys have installed nylon skids for this reason. There's nothing wrong with the scale size or position of the kit skids, it's just that they are too soft. I made a couple of quick molds from balsa duplicating the shape. After coating with some talcum power (for easy release), I vacuformed over these molds with .030 styrene. After trimming to shape and then contouring to match the undersurface airfoil, they were glued on with some Foam-Tac and Formula 560 Canopy Glue around the edges. I'd done the same to Komet #3 (the one still flying) and this has worked like a charm.

First, I sprayed the lower surfaces with XF-23. This is not really necessary as the kit light blue is fine. But if touch ups or repairs are needed, that blue is tough to match. I used a different bottle than I used for the fuselage, and it didn't match exactly (I've noticed this with XF-23 in the past), but this is actually more "scale" -- late in the war, there was a great deal of variation in the light blue gray RLM paint -- that along with the fact that the wings were made in one place and the fuselage in another, makes it likely they wouldn't have matched. Once dry, I sprayed the panels with a couple of "wet" coats of satin Polycrylic.

Masking camo patterns is one of my less favorite tasks, but at least German "splinter" patters are nearly straight lines. I use blue painters tape and actually like the cheap stuff sold at Harbor Freight. I "de-tack" the tape by sticking to my teeshirt, before putting down on a cutting board and slicing into strips 1/4" wide. Narrow strips are much less likely to pull up paint when you remove them. First I masked off all the brown areas with the tape, then went back and filled the space with brown kraft paper, using tape that only adhered to the previously applied 1/4" strips. Then the green was sprayed.

I like to hit the freshly sprayed paint with some polycrylic -- this makes the next stage of masking less likely to pull up paint as the poly's surface is smoother.

Then I reversed the process and masked off all the green, then sprayed the brown (olive drab). When dry and all masking removed, the panels received a couple of "wet" coats of polycrylic.
Jul 30, 2017, 12:04 PM
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I'm a professional graphic designer, so I enjoy creating my own graphics for nearly all of my models. As I mentioned earlier, I take way too much time looking at all the available color profiles, trying to select the "winner". I realize it makes little difference in the end, but I am how I am!

I use CoreDraw, a program I have used in my business for more than 20 years (and countless "upgrades" which have altered the basic functions almost not at all).

While I know there are local sign companies who can output my file, I have enjoyed working with Callie Graphics for all of my work. First, she also used Corel Draw, so in short order I was able to provide her with files that required little to no work on her end before outputting. Second, her service is terrific. Typically, she mails my graphics out 2 or 3 days after she receives my file. I always use Priority Mail, by the way. Gets to me faster and the cardboard envelopes have greatly reduced the chance of damaged graphics as compared to mailing in a regular envelope. Third, I would much rather support somebody making a living supporting our hobby. I'll bet you've heard of Callie Graphics, even if you've never purchased anything from her -- well, there's a good reason. It would be hard to match her quality and service (greatly overused terms).

I've included a screen capture of this plane's graphics so you can see what I send. The magenta outlines are actually a specific color tied to her cutting machine.

You may note that my final sheet included specific markings for White 10 (with rudder serial number) and White 18. I couldn't quite decide which to do and rather than obsess further, I just got both so I could make the choice later.

Both uses the distinctive "rocket power flea" crest used by one Komet unit. I found a very good color rendering of this online, and removed the background, so it could be cut out with a thin white border. In the end, I opted for White 18. I rather liked the unique type font and larger size.

Applying graphics to an assembled model can, at times, be challenging and awkward. Having the wing panels off the plane made the task much easier. Crosses were applied to Komet wing panels with different alignments as show in photos. Most, however, appear to have been mounted at an angle in keeping with the swept-back design. I like to pick a spot about 45% of chord at the root and at tip, and use this imaginary line to align the cross. In other words, not as angled as the leading edge, or as little as the elevon hinge line -- although, in a pinch, the latter is not a bad way to go. For me this involves making light pencil marks, straight edges, more pencil marks, and then careful application of the crosses. I've done enough that it's not as nerve-wracking as the first time I did it. I like to apply the graphics dry (no soapy water) which is a strictly one-shot operation. No do-overs.

I use old hotel or AAA cards to burnish the graphics before removing the cover sheet paper.

After application, I hit all the markings with a wet coat of Polycrylic, which helps to seal the edges and reduce the chance of the edges lifting later.

As mentioned earlier, these "wet" coats end up with too much sheen. So the next step is to apply several-to-many very light spray coats of Polycrylic, where I back off 2 to 3 feet from the model and spray as dry as possible. I also use a fan to accelerate drying. These coats dry with texture, and thus much closer to a satin or even matte finish.

White 18 had a white nose, metal generator prop spinner, and black band at the separation to camo. I lightly sanded the yellow plastic parts to give a little tooth, and sprayed with Testors flat white enamel. The small tip spinner is Model Master stainless steel. The black line indicating the separation between the tip spinner and white is a strip of black vinyl saved from an old Callie graphic I'd saved. The black like around the wide end is the most challenging. I put the cowl ring on a flat surface with a sharp pencil held firmly alongside, and then rotate the cowl ring to scribe a perfect line -- this was then masked off with a narrow strip of blue painter's tape, then more tape, and sprayed black.

In my experience, white trim shows up in flight even better than yellow, and the visible nose can be very helpful on final approach with a plane with such minimal frontal area.

Finally, it was time to glue the wing panels on. I like to use six minute epoxy, one panel at a time. The best way to ensure a good fit (that doesn't require a wide "tape" to cover the seam") is to adjust things and trial fit prior to mixing your epoxy! If it has gaps during the test fit, there will be gaps after gluing. For mine, I had to push in the solid CF spars a little, and trim inside the "tab" area in the wing root to get a flush fit. Before gluing, I make many small holes using a very sharp scribe to allow the epoxy to grip better. The glue is not taking the bulk of the load -- the solid CF spar is. The glue simply maintains the relative angle of the panel to the fuselage. Yes, in a crash, the epoxy may "pop off" the foam. But I think that's a plus -- you can remove the old epoxy sometimes before making a repair, or replacing a panel.

I like to do a little weathering and try not to get carried away. Komets generally didn't last too long in use -- they had a horrible survival rate, plus the war ended soon after their introduction. While they were left on the runway for fast deployment, they seem to have had cloth covers to protect them. As a result, I did minor paint chipping using a brand new (i.e. sharp point) silver Sharpie marker and added a few chips around access panels, fuel fill ports, cockpit area, and leading edge. The major portion of the wing was wood, so only the leading edge section or access panels were metal. The silver Sharpie is easy to do, and very effective. I think a little goes a long way.

To finish things off, I made a mix of a couple of light gray acrylics and satin polycrylic (again, credit to Rob Caso -- Casor). Thinned, this was lightly oversprayed over the entire model (except for canopy of course). This "fades" the paint a little, but more importantly, helps to visually blend the markings to the paint. The applied vinyl looks much more "painted on" than "applied" when finished.

NEXT: adding a tail wheel, modifying or making a takeoff dolly, thoughts on runway take-offs/landings, flying surface setup, and more.
Last edited by MrSmoothie; Jul 30, 2017 at 02:33 PM.
Jul 31, 2017, 09:34 AM
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Tail Wheel -- the best single mod you can make

I think the best single modification you can make to your Komet is the addition of a tail wheel. With a little planning, and careful cutting with a #11 Xacto and dremel grinder, you can create just enough space for a 1" Dubro ultralight wheel to fit. I've used CF rod or short lengths of music wire for axles with a drop of CA on both ends to secure. Be sure to drill the holes perpendicular to the centerline so the plane will track straight!

The photos show a salvaged tail wheel (remember the plane in the tree? It came down after 18 months and many parts were successfully salvaged), as well as the latest rebuild.

I found the tail wheel made huge improvements in takeoff tracking on grass.

Many of you Komet owners know that runway takeoffs are discouraged (even in the manual) and there are plenty of youtube videos to stress the point. I believe the biggest problem is that the tail skid has no lateral grip and as a result, back-and-forth gyrations may ensue.

Our club installed a 275' Geotextile "fabric" runway earlier this year. I have found that takeoffs are a snap by comparison to grass takeoffs (where, one errant little hole in the grass can create disaster). I don't believe this would work very well, if at all, without a tail wheel. And even better, I've taken to landing on the runway! This has resulted in greatly reduced "wear and tear" on my most recent Komet (Yellow 7) which looks almost the same today as when I first flew it. Flying off of grass at our previous field resulted in a steady decline in the condition of my Komets with constant touch-ups (if not repairs) required.

I have been experimenting with using aluminum ducting tape on the fuselage skid to provide some protection (during landing) for the model, as well as not leave trails of paint (or plastic) on the runway, and it seems to help. I keep thinking there may be something even better. I replace the tape periodically as it wears along the edges.

I've toyed with the idea of making the tail wheel steerable, even though the full size craft did not have one (to my knowledge) -- I think it would be cool to be able to taxi out to the runway center line instead of walking out and placing the model.
Last edited by MrSmoothie; Nov 28, 2019 at 05:32 PM.
Jul 31, 2017, 09:52 AM
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The Dolly -- the second best mod you can make

It was clear to me almost from the start, that there were three problems with the oh-so-cool (and scale) takeoff dolly. First, it's not wide enough. Second, the wheels could stand to be larger diameter, especially on average grass. Third, the post that goes into the fuselage receptacle is a little too large, often preventing the dolly from dropping consistently.

Things I have done:

1) Aggressive use of 220 sandpaper on the post to reduce the width. The part should fit with no resistance at all. If even a little snug, it only takes a bit of sand or grass from the previous landing to hang it up.

2) I've added two extra magnets on top (with a little CA or epoxy to make sure they don't go anywhere). My reasoning is this -- if more magnets create a tighter pull, more magnets should create a stronger push when the cylinder rotates. The thickness of the magnets also means the post isn't in as far. This really seems to help.

3) Larger wheels: I've used 3" Dubro "micro sport" wheels with good success. These are narrow and I think they have less drag being pulled through grass.

4) Widen the dolly. I actually made a new dolly from scratch with some wire, plywood and hardwood, which I've used successfully on all my Komets for about 18 months. "Night and day" best describes the difference a wider dolly can make. More recently I've been trying different ways to modify the kit dolly for wider track. The photo shows the use of solid aluminum rod, drilled for 3mm on the dolly side, and smaller diameter on the other for the music wire axle. This was all CA'ed in place. I'm sure there are many ways to "skin this cat" but I strongly suggest you try to do it. Note that on the "new" all-red Durafly Komet, even Durafly has decided to make the dolly wider -- yet they don't sell this new dolly as a stand-alone replacement part.
Jul 31, 2017, 10:05 AM
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Some Cosmetic Improvement Ideas

Here are some ideas you might want to try.

1) The Pitot Tube on the port wing panel is a problem. The chances of it lasting more than a few flights are slim, and having it break is the least of your worries -- it could end up taking off a chunk of your leading edge. In addition, if you look at photos of the real aircraft, the pitot tube was quite thin -- the plastic part was obviously "beefed up" a lot to reduce breakage.

My solution was to cut the tube off maybe an inch from the mounting flange, and then drill a hole all the way through to accept a thin cocktail straw. The straw is flexible and will easily bend if it catches on landing without damaging anything. And it's easily replaced once necessary. This has worked great, and I'm still surprised how visible the pitot tube is during flight.

2) I've never really liked the usual foamie solution of clear tape to provide a hatch pull. Lately I've taken to using decorative nails -- I use a sharp scribe to make a hole in the foam, and then these nails rotate as you push them in (they have spiral threads). Pull the nail out, get some thin CA into the hole, and re-insert. You can hardly see the nail head, especially if you paint to match -- way better than a tape tab. A regular nail would probably work as well, but I like to think the grooved threads provide more surface for CA adherance.

3) I have never gotten too excited about the idea of putting an Estes rocket motor into a Komet. I can see where it'd be a neat trick to pull off at a model air show, with careful supervision. But it just strikes me as an accident waiting to happen (in the pit area). However, I do find that the empty tail pipe looks "wrong" and found that the addition of a simple "nozzle" improves the look. I use a metal tube, about an inch long. I plug the forward end with a disc of black foam from a leftover container, and then glue to a strip of balsa to the bottom of the tube. This should be trimmed to fit a groove in the foam, and also for height so the metal tube is concentric in the opening. I used a quick spray of flat black on the inside and then stainless steel Model Master on the outside.
Jul 31, 2017, 10:14 AM
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And finally: Popcorn Prevention

I really like foamies. But I really REALLY hate "popcorn" foam, especially on a model I've taken the time to repaint and detail. Here in Florida, where we fly under direct sun the vast majority of the time, this is a real problem for airframes in general and especially on dark-painted models and under canopies.

With my last Komet, Yellow 7, I had left it out just a little too long on the setup table and noticed the start of some popcorning in the foam and kicked myself. I decided to make a reflective cover. We get food shipped by "Blue Apron" and each box has a liner made of the silver bubble wrap, and I decided to put some of that to good use. The edges are simply 3m clear packing tape, and a bit of velcro to hold the center section to the wing panels. I also made a pocket on top of one of the wings to hold the cocktail straw "pitot tube" and the radio mast which I remove during transport.

Another source of this material is Reflectix, sold at Lowes and Home Depot especially if your model requires larger sheets.

Besides preventing "popcorn foam", the obvious additional benefit is your Komet will suffer less wear and tear during transport to the field.

I admit that I don't "love" making these covers. But I do love pulling out wings that aren't damaged in the car, and putting back wings without popcorn foam.
Aug 02, 2017, 10:59 PM
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On Flying: some thoughts

First, I can't stress enough that you really need to take your time setting up your elevons and getting even throws, up and down, both for aileron and elevator inputs. Use a gauge or make some templates to get them right. Do not think you're going to do this at the field in five minutes before your maiden, or your first flight may be your last (this is where I say "ask me how I know").

Takeoffs are pretty hairy to start with, and you add in a plane that's out of trim with uneven throw, or too much travel? What could go wrong?

Second, I went through a lot of props at first, and HK always seemed to be out of stock. I tried the same size APC 6x4E props and have never gone back. The APC props work great, and are easily available.

I've tried many 3s batteries, as high as 2200. Yeah, it'll fly with that, but IMO it makes takeoffs more difficult and landings faster and even more of a circus. I fly for 5 to 6 minutes using 1250 to 1300 packs, and that's plenty. My current fav is the Turnigy "1.25" 1250mAh 3S 30C Lipo Pack (Long) - sku 9067000074-0. A friend gave me a couple brand new when he decided to go 4s in the intended model. I didn't have high hopes as they are only rated 30-40c and with 50mah less than my usual 1300 50c pack, I figured shorter flight times. Boy, was I surprised. My Komet flew better than ever with amazing vertical. The lighter weight made takeoffs and landings much better. BTW, if you do a search for this lipo at the HK site, you'll never find it -- their search engine sucks. I find it by doing a google search and adding "hobby king" and that locates the page. I've tried putting in the exact wording on the battery and it doesn't come up! It's frequently out of stock so somebody else must like it.

I'm lucky that our club has a new Geotextile runway -- I takeoff and land on it, and I've been amazed at the lack of wear-and-tear that I had come to expect flying Komets off of grass, where almost anything could happen (and often did).
Aug 03, 2017, 08:35 AM
Foam addict
4stripes's Avatar
Nice build and a lovely repaint.
Thanks for sharing!
Aug 03, 2017, 08:54 AM
Registered User
jumo004's Avatar
Beautiful job !!!

Learned a lot !

Aug 06, 2017, 01:12 AM
If it's R/C, I'm in!
Knight Owl's Avatar
Very nice. Thanks for sharing your experience and suggestions for this great model.
Aug 10, 2017, 04:03 AM
Registered User
MartinT's Avatar
Awesome writeup, and beautiful repaint!

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