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Jul 27, 2017, 10:49 AM
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Rivets in a Foamie Warbird.

Anyone have any useful tips or tool suggestions for doing halfway decent rivets on a foamie electric WW2 warbird? I used a tracing wheel or whatever it's called on a few broken plane pieces that I had saved for experimentation. It was a quick job... I wasn't going for 100% authenticity and I also tried the manual way with various nails.

The tool has an interesting result, but I think it'll be too small for my upcoming 1/7 scale birds.

I've seen a similar tool made specifically for plastic models, but 1:32 is the largest scale available.

I'm still trying to learn the wash technique also. I've tried acrylic paint but I'm leaning towards the pastel chalk, water, and liquid soap method.

Any sage advice from you pros?
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Sep 14, 2017, 10:50 AM
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I am no expert, in fact the photos below of my FMS 1500mm P-47 are the first plane I did rivets on, but I want to share two different ideas, none of which are mine. You may have to zoom in on the pics to see the rivets.

On the P-47 I used canopy glue in a syringe. I bought an inexpensive kit from Rockler Woodworking, but these are available in a bunch of places and come with a variety of "needles", some plastic, some metal. The needles have a flat end, not a sharp end, so while you could poke your eye out, you have to work a bit to stab your finger and get blood.

While I think my rivets are a bit too big, I am pleased for a first ever try. You get used to the size and spacing pretty quickly and I did it by eye, not measuring or marking dots. The glue starts white and dries clear. I did it before I painted the plane. It took me two evenings while watching TV to do the plane, allowing for glue on one side of a surface to dry overnight until I did the other side the next night.

Another method I have heard of, but not tried yet, is dimpling. Taking a pencil or other device with a rounded but thin tip, not sharp, and depressing into the foam enough to make a dimple, but not break the surface of the foam. This I imagine, also takes practice. You get an innie, not an outtie, but it still looks good. The spacing is all manual.

I have not tried the pattern wheel, which is what you were describing, yet. I have to steal one from my wife's sewing room. I have not seen then in a variety of sizes, but imagine they must come that way. It is used to trace a pattern for fabric from plans to the fabric.

Best of luck,

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