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Jul 04, 2017, 04:35 PM
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Discussion

Eflite 450 Motor Set Screw


Anyone know the size of the set screw holding the shaft on Park 450 motor? Seems no one at Eflite or HH have any idea, need to buy some more hex keys. One is really in there, even with heat.

Thanks
Ken
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Jul 05, 2017, 05:29 PM
Jack
jackerbes's Avatar
Those are 3mm (M3-0,50) headless hex socket set screws on every motor I have ever seen.

I've learned the hard way to never use a ball ended hex wrenches that allow approach from an angle on those 3mm grub screws, Now I use only a straight ended wrench. And even then I try more than one wrench looking for the one that fits with the least play.

For the screws that resist turning forces on loosening I have one 1.5mm hex wrench that has been ruined by heating in a mico torch's flame. I heat that one to bright red heat and put it in the socket for 10-15 seconds to soften any locking compounds. Then I pull it out and use the best fitting hex wrench I have to try to loosen the screw...

For the stripped 1.5mm sockets I try to drive a 1/16" hex wrench into the socket, the size difference is 1.5mm = 0.0590" and 1/16" = .0625" so sometimes I can force the larger wrench into a damaged 1.5mm socket.

My last desperate technique when I can do it is to use a thin diamond coated abrasive disc to cut a slot across the top of the screw and use a flat bladed screwdriver to engage the end of the screw and turn it. But on typical shaft to housing grub screws the access to the screws head it very restricted.

And sometimes I replace the headless 3mm grub screws with 3mm button head screws like the ones in the image. Those have flanged heads and 2mm sockets to get the larger socket size. You can chuck those up in a drill and use a belt sander to grind the sides of the button heads down some to get them to fit in places where a headless screws were used originally.

Put a flat on the shaft if one is not already there, adjust the screw length so that it is about 1/2 a turn short of the button head making contact, use blue Loctite (never red!) and the screw are not likely to ever come loose.

Jack
Jul 05, 2017, 07:48 PM
Registered User
It isn't striped but I will say that it is a lot smaller then 3mm.
What I am looking for is the size of the hex key needed.

Ken
Jul 05, 2017, 10:06 PM
Jack
jackerbes's Avatar
Looking down on the 3mm screw and seeing the hex socket makes it look like a smaller screw. If a 1.5mm hex wrench fits in the hex socket it is most likely a 3mm screw. But try any metric or inch sized hex wrenches you have and see if you can get one that fits with a no play fit.

If you want to try the heating the wrench to red hot to soften any Loctite or other thread lockers you will need to have two or more wrenches of the same size so you can heat one to red hot (it will ruin the tempering of the wrench and make it useless for any future use as a wrench) and then use a second wrench to loosen the set screw.

And when the screw (or screws) is/are removed you will still find the magnets need to be overcome to slide the shaft and housing, as an assembly, out of the inner races. And beyond the magnets the shaft may be a no play sliding fit it the inner races or a light to medium pressed fit. And in the latter case you may want to apply pressure to the end of the shaft at the bottom of the motor to press the shaft/housing assembly out of the bearing races.

Reviewing these two threads will help, things like mount the motor over a hole in a board to restrain the base/bearing tube when pressing on the shaft may be required to remove the housing and shaft...

Motor disassembly

Outrunner Disassembly and Stripping - www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1823636

How to repair an electric motor - www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1079423

Jack
Jul 05, 2017, 10:07 PM
Registered User
You need a high quality .050" hex driver.
Jul 06, 2017, 08:20 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by 172AMD
You need a high quality .050" hex driver.
Yes that is what I thought but wanted to make sure. It was a simple question, with a simple answer.

Thank you

Ken
Jul 06, 2017, 09:11 AM
Registered User
JohnFM's Avatar
Those tiny set screws are notorious for setting up tight and rounding off the sharp corners on an allen wrench. Also for rounding off the corners in the set screw itself. That's why if it's supposed to take a 1.5 MM wrench, often a .050" will work.

Take a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel and remove about an 1/8th inch from the end. that gives you a brand new tip to work with.
Those little buggers can be hair pullers sometimes. I even have a tiny solid carbide burr I've had to use at times to go in and just mill the damn things out, sometimes rethreading to a size bigger.
Jul 06, 2017, 09:44 AM
I am a nice guy! Really!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Smith
Yes that is what I thought but wanted to make sure. It was a simple question, with a simple answer.

Thank you

Ken
The simple answer to what size wrench to use is to try a variaty of them and see which one fits best. Sometime even two wrenchs that are labeled the same size will fit differently.
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Jul 06, 2017, 10:32 AM
Jack
jackerbes's Avatar
That no play fit of the wrench into an undamaged hex socket, along with maybe an application of heat to release any locking compounds, is the key to getting those screws out. I would apply only moderate turning force to the wrench and if it did not loosen the screw I would then apply the red hot heated wrench as mentioned and described in my post above.

Jack
Last edited by jackerbes; Jul 06, 2017 at 02:34 PM.
Jul 06, 2017, 11:13 AM
Registered User
JohnFM's Avatar
A hot soldering iron applied to the side of the collar by the set screw works sometimes too.
Jul 06, 2017, 08:46 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnFM
Those tiny set screws are notorious for setting up tight and rounding off the sharp corners on an allen wrench. Also for rounding off the corners in the set screw itself. That's why if it's supposed to take a 1.5 MM wrench, often a .050" will work.

Take a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel and remove about an 1/8th inch from the end. that gives you a brand new tip to work with.
Those little buggers can be hair pullers sometimes. I even have a tiny solid carbide burr I've had to use at times to go in and just mill the damn things out, sometimes rethreading to a size bigger.
John cutting of the ends for a new start is a good idea, thanks. I stopped fooling with it went to other projects but I will go back.

Ken
Last edited by Ken Smith; Jul 06, 2017 at 08:53 PM.
Dec 30, 2017, 09:55 PM
Registered User
I lost one grub bearing on my new Turnigy Park 450 motor.
Can anyone point me to a replacement. I tried the local Hardware store. They grub bearings are all to large.

Thanks, Peter Grace AI6PG email:joycecarrollgrace@gmail.com
Dec 31, 2017, 06:56 AM
Jack
jackerbes's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ai6pg
I lost one grub bearing on my new Turnigy Park 450 motor.
Can anyone point me to a replacement. I tried the local Hardware store. They grub bearings are all to large.

Thanks, Peter Grace AI6PG email:joycecarrollgrace@gmail.com
http://www.headsuphobby.com/Replacem...ngs_c_215.html

If you don't find it there try eBay, do a search for "bearing OD ID H" with the values being the outside diameter, inside diameter (i.e., shaft diameter) and height of the bearing.

You can usually just lay the bearing on a small metric rule and eyeball the measurements, if the motor has a 1/8" (0.125" or 3.175mm) shaft the bearing will not be metric, it will be imperial dimensions.

Jack
Dec 31, 2017, 10:41 AM
homo ludens modellisticus
Ron van Sommeren's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ai6pg
... email: ...@gmail.com
Better remove or mutilate your e-mail address before the spammers found you.

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Last edited by Ron van Sommeren; Dec 31, 2017 at 10:53 AM.
Jan 03, 2018, 01:35 PM
Registered User
Hi, I need a grub screw and 2 set screws that gowith it.
I lost a grub screw for a motor.

Thanks,
Peter Grace


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