FrSky M7 Hall Effect Gimbals - Taranis Q X7 - Installation - RC Groups
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Jul 03, 2017, 12:55 PM
AKA 8178 - MIke Dailey
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Mini-HowTo

FrSky M7 Hall Effect Gimbals - Taranis Q X7 - Installation


FrSky M7 Hall Effect Gimbals - Taranis Q X7 - Installation

The long awaited M7 Hall Effect Gimbals arrived today for evaluation. The M7 metal and plastic gimbal mechanics design were inspired by the all metal CNC Hall Effect gimbal used in the FrSky X12S. One of the FrSky Hall Effect design advantages is the magnet that works with the Hall Effect sensor is directly connected to the X – Y axes of the gimbal and directly moved by the stick.

Besides the Hall Effect sensor the M7s differ from the regular Taranis gimbal mechanics by using the X12S design feature of placing the cross bars on the back side of the gimbal rather than the front side used in the standard Taranis Q X7 and X9D gimbals. The M7 also uses a CNC metal front mounting plate, metal cross bars on both axes, a new flat design for the ratchet and brake springs, four ball bearings, improved spring tension adjustment and an improved method for releasing the throttle spring.

The advantage of the M7 gimbal is that the Hall Effect sensor eliminates the mechanical problems found with the potentiometers in standard gimbals that can have centering problems and can wear over time and need replacement. Because the Hall Effect sensor works with a magnet there is no physical contact to cause drag on the gimbal movement. The M7 gimbals are equipped with soft silicone flex wire to reduce the possibility of broken wires.

The images used on this thread are high resolution. Click them twice to see the high resolution image.

Next Installation
Last edited by Jet_Flyer; Jul 03, 2017 at 06:50 PM.
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Jul 03, 2017, 12:55 PM
AKA 8178 - MIke Dailey
Jet_Flyer's Avatar
Installation

1. Open the battery door and remove the battery.
2. Remove the four screws holding the case back.
3. Remove the back, being very careful of the not to bend the module bay pins.
4. Set the back cover aside.
5. Remove the four screws holding each gimbal.
6. Disconnect the gimbal plugs.
7. Disconnect the two wire loom holders. One on each side of the system.
8. Remove the gimbals and unwind the gimbal wires from the wire loom.
9. If for some reason the gimbal ring gets dislodged from the front case, note that there is a flat spot on the outer ring edge that lines up with a tab in the front case.
10. Being very careful of the wires in the wire loom and wires connected to the switchs and pots install the M7 gimbals as pictured below. There are some pictures floating around that show the M7 gimbals installed upside down so be sure to use the image below.
11. Using the four screws provided for each gimbal screw the gimbals in place.
12. Connect the gimbal plugs. Be very careful with the soft silicone flex wire used for the gimbal connections and gently move them to path that does not contact parts of the gimbal or case when the gimbal is move to all positions.
13. Reinstall the wire loom holders.
14. See image below to release throttle spring, and adjust ratchet and brake. Note the direction of the screw.
15. Being extremely careful with module bay pins, and wires that could be pinched between the case place the back cover on the system and install the four screws. If the module bay pins get bent so they make contact with each other the radio will be damaged badly when power is applied.
16. Install the battery and battery door.


Next Calibration and Testing
Last edited by Jet_Flyer; Jul 12, 2017 at 07:48 AM.
Jul 03, 2017, 12:56 PM
AKA 8178 - MIke Dailey
Jet_Flyer's Avatar
Calibration and Testing

1. Power on the Q X7. Most likely there will be a throttle warning because the gimbals are not calibrated. Press enter to clear warning.
2. Long press the center left button to enter the radio menus.
3. Using the page key page to page 9 of 9, the calibration page.
4. Carefully center the throttle stick so it lines up with the elevator stick.
5. Press enter and follow the calibration instructions. Move the sticks and pots slowly and gently to the extreme ends a number of times. Do not force the stick to the end stops, just gently, up - down and right - left.
6. After calibration the Q is ready to test with a model. Carefully check that the sticks center correctly and all the aircraft functions work correctly.
7. And as always do a good range check before flying.

Next Overview
Last edited by Jet_Flyer; Jul 03, 2017 at 03:58 PM.
Jul 03, 2017, 12:56 PM
AKA 8178 - MIke Dailey
Jet_Flyer's Avatar
Overview

I found the M7 installation easy to do and I followed the FrSky plan to have the M7s mount on the original Q mounts. The mounting makes the M7s recessed into the back part of the front trim ring. Months ago when I first saw that the M7s would be recessed I was not sure if I liked it, but after seeing it first hand and using it, Iím fine with the recess.

The recessed gimbals might also help the pinch flyers that were having problems with their fingers hitting the switches. Will most likely need to lengthen the sticks a bit though to clear the gimbal ring.

The sticks calibrated well and center much better than the original Q sticks. On my system they return right on 1500us every time. This is a big, big deal for folks that fly high performance quads. I left the gimbal spring tension as set at the factory and feels about right to me.

Iím using the Q mostly for quad flying so Iím only using the throttle brake. The new flat spring brake and ratchet design is a big improvement over the standard Q gimbal. The problem that the standard Q gimbal action has at the extreme ends has been eliminated providing a very even brake action for the full movement of the M7 stick. I know that some folks have said that the brake on the standard gimbal had a rough feel, but the brake on the M7 feels smooth and fluid to me.

I was extremely happy that the stick end lock screw could be easily released and the stick end easily adjusted for length.

The M7 is a really nicely made piece and the CNC metal mount gives it a quality look as well as good support for the mechanics. Having both the X and Y cross bars metal is a plus too. Iíve liked the look and feel of the Q from day one and the M7 adds the finishing touch.

Iíve been a FrSky user for a few years and Iím very pleased that FrSky continues to make products like the M7 that improve the overall product quality and even for the lower cost extraordinary full featured Q X7.

Mike
Last edited by Jet_Flyer; Jul 03, 2017 at 07:36 PM.
Jul 03, 2017, 12:57 PM
AKA 8178 - MIke Dailey
Jet_Flyer's Avatar
For some of us that have the first few systems made I found that I had to modify the M7 plug slightly to remove part of the spline on the plug side. I think that only a very few systems have the plug that I have, but I’m posting this just to help out folks that have the early systems.

I always use a few dabs of Weldwood contact glue to pot the wires coming out of the plug and at the sensor wire end on my systems. I like contact glue because when it dries it sticks very well to hold the wire ends, but also provides some flexing. The idea is to have the wire flex on its total length and not much at all at the plug and sensor connection.

Mike
Last edited by Jet_Flyer; Jul 03, 2017 at 07:30 PM.
Jul 04, 2017, 02:14 PM
AKA 8178 - MIke Dailey
Jet_Flyer's Avatar
Test Flight

Test flew the Q X7 with the new M7 gimbals today. Everything went well and the gimbals worked great.

First I flew one of my micro Hubsan X4 quads using the 4 in 1 RF module, just to make sure everything worked well. Then I flew my Arris 250 quad. It uses a FrSky X4R SB receiver and a F3 flight controller running Cleanflight.

X - Y Pivot Point Compared

I took some measurements between the original Q gimbal and the M7 gimbal to determine the X - Y gimbal pivot point in relation to the mounting studs in the case front. It is hard to measure, but the looks to be the same. The major difference is that the M7 rotating part is flat on the front, so the stick attaches closer to the X - Y pivot point compared to the original Q gimbal. The part that fills out to the front edge of the gimbal ring with the original gimbal is just molded plastic that extends out to match up with the rounded rotating part of the gimbal. With the M7 all that front area is open to match the flat front of the gimbal giving the gimbal the recessed look. The two gimbals are rotating very close to the same X - Y pivot point in the Q case.

Mike
Last edited by Jet_Flyer; Jul 04, 2017 at 05:29 PM.
Jul 04, 2017, 02:18 PM
Registered User
Any chance to see the QX7 on sale with the M7 sticks included ?
Jul 04, 2017, 02:23 PM
AKA 8178 - MIke Dailey
Jet_Flyer's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by michel49
Any chance to see the QX7 on sale with the M7 sticks included ?
I do not have inside information to share, but if they follow the same path as they did with the M9 gimbals and with the X9DP SE, you would think that might be a possibility.

Mike
Jul 05, 2017, 10:29 AM
Froggy RC Pilot
LapinFou's Avatar
Very nice test!!! Well done and documented.
Jul 05, 2017, 10:33 AM
Registered User
are they $26 each or for the set?

https://www.banggood.com/Frsky-Gimba...l?rmmds=search
Jul 05, 2017, 10:45 AM
Froggy RC Pilot
LapinFou's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by derelicte
Each.
Jul 05, 2017, 11:20 AM
Registered User
I was afraid that was the answer.

but better than $200+, I suppose!
Jul 05, 2017, 11:34 AM
Froggy RC Pilot
LapinFou's Avatar
Yep → Jeti Transmitter Gimbal
$210 each...
Jul 05, 2017, 06:06 PM
slats move, slots don't
AndyHK's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by derelicte
HorusRC and TeamBlacksheep have them cheaper than BG.
Jul 06, 2017, 01:09 AM
Registered User
Great work with this review! I'm waiting my m7 to arrive! 👍😁


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