RiteWing Hardcore 44 FPV Race Wing Review

We build and fly the RiteWing Hardcore 44, a 44" fast FPV racing wing. This thing flys on rails and is a serious contender in the FPV race scene.



Wingspan: 44" (1117mm)
Length: 21" (533mm)
Flying Weight: 2lbs 11oz
Motor: RiteWing 2814 1700kv
ESC: Cobra 60A Wing ESC
Receiver: Jeti R6L
Telemetry: Jeti MULi 6s
Prop: APC 7x5E
Servos: Hitec HS-225MG
Battery: Glacier 4S 3300 45C
Available From: RiteWing
Kit Price: $140

Chris Klick of RiteWing knows how to make a flying wing. He's been doing it for a long time and I remember hearing and seeing his planes literally screaming up and down the flight line at one of my first SEFF events too many years ago to mention. As FPV Wing Racing picks up steam, Chris decided he wanted to build the ultimate racing and freestyle wing. That idea turned into the Hardcore 44, a 44" wingspan purpose built FPV wing that you can race or bash and it has some great design features like stabilizing fins, large component bays, precut spar slots, inline motor mount and so much more. Find out more as we build and fly the HC44.

What's in the Box

It might not look like much at first, but inside the box you'll have the main wing cores wrapped up the top and bottom layer of EPP foam that they were cut from. Save those outer layers as you'll need them to lay the wing on for critical assembly steps. You also get balsa elevon stock, a bunch of carbon rods, plastic and coroplast wing fins/covers and a motor mount with hardware.

Additional Gear

The is a kit, so you'll either need to supply your own gear and build it all yourself, or have Chris custom build your plane for you. I like to build and wanted the full experience so Chris sent me a kit along with one of his RiteWing 2814 motors. I had to source everything else and I'd like to thank Chris for sending the plane and motor, Hitec for providing the servos, Buddy RC for providing the batteries and Innov8tive Designs for providing the ESC for this review project.


Plan for it take around 10-12 hours over a few days to complete the build. It's not hard at all, but you'll want to take your time and make sure the glue dries properly and that everything is aligned just right. I started by taking the two wing halves and glueing them together. You'll want to glue your wing beds together first and lay the wing on top of the bed so that the wings lay down properly. I used Welder Contact Adhesive and Foam Tac for most of the build on this kit.

Once the glue was dry I then took my time and glued in all the carbon fiber support rods. There are 7 rods to be glued in on the top as well as the bottom of the wing. Make sure the wing is flat in the EPP bed to ensure the wing remains straight. I like to lay down some batteries or paperweights on the wing while the glue dries. Once that was done, I started installing the bottom coroplast covers for the main component bays and servo bays. You can trim a little foam off to get a nice flush fitment of the coroplast covers.

Now it's time to paint. You don't have to paint it, but you should and it looks a lot better if you do. I chose to only paint the top of the wing as it provides good contrast when flying line of sight for test flights. Just about any paint will stick great to EPP, but Chris clued me in on a nice tip. Before painting, spray down some 3M 90 Spray Adhesive on the wing and wipe it so the adhesive is spread evenly all over the surface. Once that is dry and tacky, then paint it. The adhesive helps the paint stick as well as helps the laminate stick when you go to cover the wing.

Once the paint was dry I cut a slot in the trailing edge to insert and glue in the motor mount plate. It will stick out the back some and you'll need to take a dremel tool and cut off the excess so it is flush with the trailing edge. Next I decided to use a 3D Printed camera mount in the nose as I think it looks a lot better than just cutting out the foam for the camera. Matt Gunn printed me the mount and I marked off the area in the front of the wing, cut out the foam and glued the mount in place.

The next step was to install the top battery and electronic coroplast hatches. You need to make a cut on the bottom of the hatch covers to create a hinge and glue the front part down. You can cut a little bit of foam off the top area to recess the covers for a flush fit. I gave the hinges some extra strength by inserting some leftover carbon rods through the front flutes and into the foam. The front cover will have thumb screws and nuts used to secure it so don't forget to install the nuts into the foam. The location is pre-marked in the foam for those. For the rear cover, I just used a couple of toothpicks at the rear flutes and stuck them into the foam to secure the hatch. It looks better than tape and is easily accessed when needed.

It's almost time to cover the wing, but first I connected my servos to my radio, centered them and installed the control horns. Then I glued the servos in place flush with the top of the wing. I rotated the servo horns down and out of the way so they would not interfere with the covering process. Then I covered the top and bottom with 5mm laminate. The process is stupid easy so don't be afraid. You just need a covering iron and it lays down nicely. There are tutorial videos online if you need help with this.

Next I installed the FPV equipment. The camera sits in the 3D printed mount with a little glue to hold it in place. I mounted the video transmitter off to the side of the rear bay so I could easily access the channel selection button for quick frequency changes when needed. This also provides the vtx better cooling.

Before you install the elevons, you need to first shape them and paint them if you want. I didn't shape mine before painting and installing which was a mistake. I found out they needed to be shaped after I already hinged them, but it wasn't too hard to do. The elevons need to be tapered down towards the center of the wing. Once you cut that and size the elevon to fit, you can paint, laminate and install to the wing. I like using a laminate hinge as it looks good and is plenty strong. With the elevons hinged, I installed the control horns, made my own carbon pushrods and connected them to the servos.

Next I glued on all the wing fins. The two thickest pieces get glued together and then attach to the bottom center of the wing. It provides a nice skid for landings. The center wing fins have two different sizes. The taller ones go on top and the shorter ones go on the bottom. The outside fins on each side top and bottom need to be trimmed to fit. There is a mark on each fin where you can make the cut. The wing tip fins need to be centered and I used pins to hold all the fins in place while the glue dried. Take your time here and make sure the fins are on straight and level. I left the two center wing fins off for the rest of the electronics install to make it easier to work on.

The final steps involved mounting the motor, installing the ESC, receiver, center fins and battery placement to get the proper CG. All in all it took around 10 hours to finish. It came out straight, strong and ready to rock.


Getting the Hardcore 44 in the air is easy due to the amount of power and thrust provided by the 7x5 prop. There are various launching techniques, but I prefer to hold the plane from the nose. I power up and launch the plane with a side arm overhead swing. You can see it in the video below, it puts the plane around 8-10ft high and level or climbing slightly which is a great position to then grab the controls and fly away.

I climb to altitude quickly and pull the power back, level off and then pull my goggles down over my face to begin FPV flight. You can start in the goggles once you've had some practice or with a friend launching for you. The first thing I noticed when flying FPV, was that it felt really good right off the bat. It didn't feel sloppy or like I was trying to hang on as with other wings. Carving a nice tight turn was solid and you can really feel the extra fins helping to hold the nose up in the turn. It makes it feel locked in and on rails so you can just point the plane where you want it to go and it goes there. Full throttle is super fast and fun and made for racing, but you can pull back if needed to cruise around, it flys just fine at a much slower speed just like you'd expect from a flying wing.

You don't have to be a racer to enjoy the HC44, it's equally at home doing proximity and freestyle flying as well. The plane is tough so you can get low and tight without worrying too much and the locked in feel makes aerobatics easy with fast axial rolls and loops that pull straight every time. Heck it's even fun as a line of sight wing. On the maiden flight, which I always do line of sight, I didn't want to land, I was just blasting around the sky with a smile on my face.

When it is time to land, the HC44 does slow down well and lands right on the bottom skid. You'll want to do a mock landing up high to see how slow you can get it and how controllable it is with the nose up going slow. It's a piece of cake to put it right where you want it after just a landing or two under your belt.




The Hardcore 44 is a next level FPV Racing Wing. The design is very well thought out and the flight characteristics are outstanding. If you are serious about being competitive in the wing scene, you need to get a hold of one of these. I can't wait to get to the next wing race to see what I can do with my HC44, bring it on!


Check out the Hardcore 44 FPV Racing Wing at RiteWing

Keep up with the latest on the RCGroups RiteWing Build Thread

Chris has a discount code available to save $20 on the purchase your Hardcore 44. Use Code: HC44-20

Thread Tools
Jul 07, 2017, 10:16 AM
Registered User
How much lead did you have to put in the nose? These are the same components I used. With the battery bulging the lid and the motor all the way forward, it needs 70gm of HD camera over the fpv camera to balance.
Jul 07, 2017, 10:20 AM
RCG Admin
Jason Cole's Avatar
I put an ounce in, because I wanted the battery to be farther back in the bay for better fitment.
Jul 07, 2017, 02:51 PM
Registered User
is your ESC in the battery bay? I couldn't figure out how to get the cobra ESC up there without hollowing out the foam between the spars.
Jul 07, 2017, 02:57 PM
RCG Admin
Jason Cole's Avatar
No it's in the rear bay still, just moved all the way forward in that bay.
Jul 07, 2017, 06:00 PM
Mum is the word!
Do not hesitate adding weight to balance, it only makes it fly better!

If you are running my 2814 1700 motor on it it will usually need nose weight or a run cam to balance,this is due to the heavier motor.

If you go cobra 2217 2300 or 2210 2200 on a 6x4 it will balance easier.

I like it heavier it tracks crazy good!
Last edited by klique; Jul 07, 2017 at 06:07 PM.
Jul 07, 2017, 06:08 PM
Mum is the word!
A ripping vid from Shelby.
Find YOUR Flow...... (3 min 45 sec)
Jul 11, 2017, 09:04 AM
Registered User
Great Review of a Great Wing. I love my HC 44. It is my go to FPV wing.
Jul 11, 2017, 04:20 PM
You're killin' me Smalls
BrownEyedFool's Avatar
So I have to get back to my build, looking through CK's youtube channel for building and installing the pushrods, haven't foudn them yet. Mine's likely to be primarily a night flyer though I may put a camera in the nose just for LOS stuff for now.

Have both 2814 and 2217 Cobras handy, have to go back and see which I had planned to put on it.
Jul 13, 2017, 04:14 AM
Registered User
Originally Posted by BrownEyedFool
So I have to get back to my build, looking through CK's youtube channel for building and installing the pushrods, haven't foudn them yet. Mine's likely to be primarily a night flyer though I may put a camera in the nose just for LOS stuff for now.

Have both 2814 and 2217 Cobras handy, have to go back and see which I had planned to put on it.

2814 is awesome for everyday flying. If you are going to race it i think most people are using the 2217.
Jul 14, 2017, 06:46 AM
NTX Helidillos
tonkajeep34's Avatar
Nice Review! Been enjoying my HC44 it's my favorite plane to fly!

Jul 14, 2017, 10:32 AM
RCG Admin
Jason Cole's Avatar
Love that Camo paint job!
Jul 15, 2017, 04:08 AM
Registered User
Originally Posted by BrownEyedFool
So I have to get back to my build, looking through CK's youtube channel for building and installing the pushrods, haven't foudn them yet. Mine's likely to be primarily a night flyer though I may put a camera in the nose just for LOS stuff for now.

Have both 2814 and 2217 Cobras handy, have to go back and see which I had planned to put on it.

Once you have it built let me know. Me you and Scott can get together and do some proximity flying with our 44's.
Jul 15, 2017, 04:39 PM
Registered User
Great review Jason:-)

Here are some directions for building. To get the most out of the Hardcore series of planes, it is important to use the Rite techniques.
This is a HC48, but all the same applies to the HC44:
Ritewing Hardcore 48 part 1/2 (23 min 37 sec)
Jul 15, 2017, 04:45 PM
Registered User
My HC44.
Yes.... This is actual speed with the Cobra 2217 2300kv, 60A Cobra wing ESC and 6x5,5 APC.
HC44 Midlife crisis (0 min 55 sec)

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