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Dec 21, 2017, 10:31 PM
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deeh_46's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Great_Goose
I used the 32 bit version Cura without many problems you need to load the Cura settings file first. Then I decided to change to Simply3D because of the stage printing is only supported by Simply3D.
I'm on 64bit and newest Cura 3.1.0. Now I'm using Simplify3D and using S3D factory in the file as starting point.
Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
The newer versions of Cura have this problem. It is something to do with the settings that are hidden. Some people have been able to get it to work by unhiding and tweaking the settings but I wasn't ever able to get mine to work. So initially I just downloaded the same version that the videos for Cura are done on and it worked fine. I've since switched to Simplify3D.
Nice info, Thanks. I curious because from the first time wanted to print these planes and using default Cura settings just didn't work for the ribs. But if I'm using included Cura settings from the file it works.

3DP have another discounts btw.
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Dec 21, 2017, 10:34 PM
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deeh_46's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbacon
3DLabPrint provides three files, Factory, stl and Gcode.
Unless you are running Simplify3D, you should use the Gcode, which doesn't require Cura at all.

Simplify3D is better, marginally, and I popped for it, to get the best possible printout, but it is $150! (USD) This is still less than a balsa-mylar model, with gear, wheels, spinner, seats, NyRod, and control horns.
I'm using S3D from now on.
Dec 22, 2017, 01:57 AM
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dbacon's Avatar
Thx for the feedback.
Dec 24, 2017, 07:31 PM
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deeh_46's Avatar
I have print my parts with multiplier at 0.81 and got 0.5 grams per part lighter than manual says. If I print it with settings from file which is 1.02 it will be heavier 2 or 5 grams. With multiplier at 0.81, I also get great finishing but not bond very well. What multiplier should I run?
Dec 24, 2017, 07:43 PM
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dbacon's Avatar
I would use the setting that gives the best bonding, it is going to be a heavy plane anyway, you need the strength.
Dec 24, 2017, 07:50 PM
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deeh_46's Avatar
Ok, Thanks. I will try to print multiplier at 1.02.

btw, Have you ever print with Polycarbonate filament? Or Nylon maybe (I have 1 roll ePA Nylon unopened from packaging)?
Last edited by deeh_46; Dec 24, 2017 at 08:00 PM.
Dec 24, 2017, 09:23 PM
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dbacon's Avatar
I have only used PLA. I have some high performance PLA to try some day, but haven't yet. Oh, I did print tires with Maker-Flex, worked great!.

I read that someone printed a Stearman fuse with ABS, but it came out heavy. I saw on You Tube that a person tried all different filament types to make a full size outboard propeller, and only the PLA one held up, so I am pretty sold on PLA.
Dec 24, 2017, 09:48 PM
Registered User
deeh_46's Avatar
For tires I'm using TPU with 2 perimeter and no infill, also works great.

I think I'm going to try print part from my Nylon filament.
I have printed planes with PLA basic color like blue, red, white, etc also great result but not silver. From 2 weeks ago I bought Silver filament but it looks like with the same temperatures, silver won't bond nicely. It needs to print with higher extruder temperature.
Dec 31, 2017, 08:27 AM
Maintain Thine Airspeed !
Redbrickman's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by deeh_46
I just tried to print a wing with Cura, but this is what it looks like. The ribs inside the wing won't print. You can see shadow of the rib though. Does anyone know how to setup the Cura to be able to print them?
I'm just started to print the Stearman and had the same problem with Cura 3.1 I have tried a few workarounds that didn't work, but just now I have found a post in the 3D Lab forum with a new fix. I'm going to try it as soon as my latest print is completed.

In Special Modes make sure Surface Mode is set to Both. It seems if not set to both then only outer or inner will print.
Jan 01, 2018, 03:33 PM
Registered User
Well I figured out the issues I was having came down to 2 things. 1) My travel speed was too slow and was the main source of stringing. And 2) I'm having moisture issues with the filament causing both holes in the print and adding to the stringing issue. Once I figured these out I corrected my speeds in Simplfy3D and opened a new roll of Esun PLA+. Unfortunately the new roll had moisture issues right out of the box so I'm having to return it. At this point I'm thinking I will probably just stick to PLA as I am getting some really good prints from it now.
Jan 01, 2018, 06:17 PM
Registered User
dbacon's Avatar
Thanks for the info, it will help us all. I am surprised by moisture on a new unopened package, wasn't it packed with desiccate?
I get a lot from Zyltech at 12.95 US don't think I have ever had a moisture problem. Here in Detroit the inside humidity is so low, I am having static problems, not moisture, it was 8 degrees this morning...
Jan 03, 2018, 03:31 AM
Registered User
It was packed with a desiccate. I've heard of it happening before but it seems pretty rare. I live in Hawaii so humidity is definitely a problem. Thing is I wasn't seeing the signs of moisture while printing so it really threw me off for awhile. My box solution for the filament feeding into the printer helps but even after a couple days of printing I started seeing holes again. So I'm going to start alternating spools every other day to keep them drier.
Jan 03, 2018, 07:49 AM
Registered User
dbacon's Avatar
Wonder if you could install a light bulb in the filament box to drive moisture out?
Jan 03, 2018, 10:12 AM
Retired CAD guy
birdofplay's Avatar
An OVER TEMP Hot End will get you the same effect.

I "suppose" the "we" are going to have to start verifying our HE temps with
some external source. Like some IR type device
Jan 03, 2018, 11:26 AM
Registered User
dbacon's Avatar
Would an IR meter work, like you can get from Harbor Freight for $30?
https://www.harborfreight.com/Non-Co...ing-69465.html

I have seen them for half that price too.


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