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Oct 07, 2021, 06:52 AM
Latitudes vs Attitudes
Bob Gaito's Avatar
These mini brushless submersible fountain pumps will run all year long for $ 7 from amazon. Only draw back is the inlet must be under water-but in an emergency, it will be hard to keep it anything but from underwater.
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Nov 14, 2021, 03:53 PM
Latitudes vs Attitudes
Bob Gaito's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by eganders
If you only need to pump a small amount that gets into the sump, why not use a tube that faces to the rear of the boat that would pull a suction as the boat travels forward? See sketch. Has anyone tried this?
Here's what they do in the real world in Aruba-I thought of this thread immediately when I saw this...
Nov 17, 2021, 06:44 AM
Durability Tester
This is how to setup a Bilge pump on ardupilot rover

Currently there is no support for bilge pumps on ardurover firmware, Ardusub has a leak alarm but its not in rover firmware. I have been trying to find a way of controlling the bilge pump with ardurover, in a way that will work both automatically and manually so this is my current solution.

cheap ebay rain sensor, its really the control board we need, the sensor part isnt great and corrodes away if left in the water too long but lasts much longer if you coat it all with solder.

12v pump that can suck water up and out the bilge, so no need to worry about the pump air locking.
and finally, a filter to stop any debris getting sucked into the pump.


So first thing I have done was enable the button using the BTN_ENABLE set to 1 and reload parameters to get the rest of the button settings to appear.

Then i set BTN_PIN1 = 55 or AUX6 on a pixhawk, setting the pin the water sensor will connect to.

We then have to set BTN_OPTIONS1 =1 that will invert the input so a high signal from the sensor board will activate it rather than a low signal.

We then have to set the BTN_FUNC1 = 28 for Relay1

Now we have a button setup controlled by the water sensor that activates relay 1.

The next step is to setup the relay, this is just setting RELAY_PIN:=53 (AUX5)

now set servo 9 and servo10 functions to -1 to enable them as GPIO.

So now with the sensor and mosfet connected and set up so if the conductivity goes above a set level the button will activate, triggering the relay, running the pump. that should drain the water and the pump should turn off once its cleared.

Why run it through the relay and buttons instead of just connecting the sensor to the mosfet? simple, this way gives far more control of the system and gives me alerts that i can use to trigger other actions such as RTL if the leak doesn’t clear and I can manually trigger it from shore.

with the button working I used the lua button demo script to send warnings that water is detected.

you could run this without the flight control system by just wiring the sensor directly to the mosfet to drive the pump but I like having alerts.

Bilge pump test (0 min 11 sec)
Last edited by geofrancis; Nov 17, 2021 at 10:33 AM.
Nov 27, 2021, 08:51 AM
Durability Tester
Auto bilge test (0 min 16 sec)
Nov 27, 2021, 09:56 AM
Latitudes vs Attitudes
Bob Gaito's Avatar
Well-that's not necessarily the KISS doctrine...I made this from a 555timer and a DIP relay, it runs off of the ship's main battery...Its on my Broward Yacht and is for visual interest only (not designed to save the boat)-as the boat sits in the water and there is a calibrated hole in the hull-and a chamber around the "leak" - periodically the water touches the highest two sensor probes and starts the pump-the pump is latched on until the lowest probe clears the water (prevents quick cycling) Outwardly the spectators see water coming from the thru hulls-like a bilge pump or galley sink. Total size...smaller then a postage stamp. At the time $5 Radio Shack-BG
Last edited by Bob Gaito; Nov 27, 2021 at 10:13 AM.
Nov 27, 2021, 10:15 AM
Latitudes vs Attitudes
Bob Gaito's Avatar
Watch in full screen:

Broward Bilge Pump (0 min 20 sec)
Last edited by Bob Gaito; Nov 27, 2021 at 10:26 AM.
Nov 27, 2021, 10:20 AM
Latitudes vs Attitudes
Bob Gaito's Avatar
...
Nov 27, 2021, 12:11 PM
Durability Tester
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Gaito
Well-that's not necessarily the KISS doctrine...
this setup would work without the pixhawk flight controller in the middle, just connect the sensor to the relay, but running via the pixhawk gives me alerts and failsafes along with a manual override on the radio and ground station. its for going long range missions out to sea controlled via 4g internet.
Last edited by geofrancis; Nov 27, 2021 at 01:28 PM.
Nov 27, 2021, 04:39 PM
Latitudes vs Attitudes
Bob Gaito's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by geofrancis
cheap ebay rain sensor, its really the control board we need, the sensor part isnt great and corrodes away if left in the water too long but lasts much longer if you coat it all with solder.
https://youtu.be/Xg-2cWluXYU
Consider making your own water sensor-maybe cast several gold plated brass connector pins into a thin block of epoxy? -should never corrode.

Quote:
Originally Posted by geofrancis
this setup would work without the pixhawk flight controller in the middle, just connect the sensor to the relay, but running via the pixhawk gives me alerts and failsafes along with a manual override on the radio and ground station. its for going long range missions out to sea controlled via 4g internet.
Well, the mission envelope you describe requires a whole different bilge pump logic and reporting system for sure!
Nov 27, 2021, 04:55 PM
Durability Tester
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Gaito
Consider making your own water sensor-maybe cast several gold plated brass connector pins into a thin block of epoxy? -should never corrode.
I use some stainless steel probes dangling down into the keel, I have a pair of them on the boat, one internal for leaks and one external for testing the salt concentration of the water. I just use the control board from the rain sensor for the bilge since its simple to calibrate the digital signal with the little potentiometer on the board.
Nov 28, 2021, 05:00 AM
Registered User
Gold plating - back when I was working for a living, we had a plentiful supply of reed contacts for the reed relays. They were a glass tube with two strips of steel whose ends were gold plated. Not electro-plated, because that doesn't happen cheaply with gold, but dipped into molten gold. With the glass tube removed, you are left with two gold plated metal strips.
Look for "reed relay insert".
https://www.proopsbrothers.com/10-x-...310-8987-p.asp
These looked amazingly like the ones that I worked with and are probably surplus left over from that era of telecoms equipment. Information is a bit sparse, but they are probably the same item. Later productions might have suffered from economies and have different plating.

In most model boat applications, stainless steel should be fine if are accessible for regular cleaning, but for long term continuous unattended use, something a bit more exotic might be needed.
Dec 23, 2021, 01:34 PM
You’re not that interesting.
RaisedByWolves's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by boater_dave
The siphon hose type of bilge drain works for boats that don't go in reverse. Using direct prop wash to increase the suction is a good idea. And the higher above the waterline the loop goes, the more suction you will require. The best setup would have a one way valve to prevent water from coming back in. But if you have a one way valve, you don't need the loop. But it is a devise with moving parts below the water line. Made popular by gas boat go-fast types that never back up.

If you have a big scale boat, with lots of water in the bilge, a pump would be best. No under water fittings required. Engage the pump when needed. Or, fix the leak.


Dave
Wow, I forgot even starting this thread.

Something I have found useful is a stainless plate with bent ears and a flap of thin rubber trapped between it and the hull.

When at rest water pressure holds the rubber flap against the hull preventing water from entering. But when under power and on plane any water inside the hull will be released by the flap.


Dec 23, 2021, 02:48 PM
Durability Tester
Quote:
Originally Posted by RaisedByWolves
Wow, I forgot even starting this thread.

Something I have found useful is a stainless plate with bent ears and a flap of thin rubber trapped between it and the hull.

When at rest water pressure holds the rubber flap against the hull preventing water from entering. But when under power and on plane any water inside the hull will be released by the flap.


thats just a drain valve, they are popular on fast rc boats but it uses a ball bearing instead of a flap.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32873644096.html
Jan 21, 2022, 10:05 AM
Registered User
So I just ran across this thread and thought I would share a nice bilge setup built by Streamline RC for their Thrasher Jet Boats. I have one of these boats and can testify the pump works great, although my boat doesn't have the automatic pump so I cant comment on that aspect of it. Mine is on ALL the time when the battery is plugged in which is fine for me since I really run this boat hard when I drive it and it spends alot of time upside down. The owner Scott is great to work with, might be worth asking if he would sell just the pump itself.

Also these jet boats have a built in bilge that uses the suction of the jet to suck water out of the hull. It is a well designed boat, nice and simple!

https://order.streamlinerc.com/produ...c-bilge-system


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