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Oct 27, 2004, 07:04 AM
Electric Orange
scotta's Avatar

Sheet 7 revised - includes fuselage bottom


Well, there was a problem with sheet 7 and I also forgot to add a template for the fuse bottom. I have re-tiled sheet 7 to make the printable area smaller so please let me know if this is better, especially for those that are using Letter size paper.
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Oct 27, 2004, 07:12 AM
Electric Orange
scotta's Avatar

Undercarriage


The hardest part of this build will be the undercarriage. The original did not have the rear angled brace wire shown on the drawings.

Steps:

1. Bend up the wires, 2 of each
2. Groove the inner former so that the wires just sit flush with the surface. I did not glue them in until the UC assembly was attached to the wing.
3. Fit the wheel and retainer
4. Glue on the intermediate and outer panels
5. Sand to shape to give a nice tear drop shape
6. Finish with light weight filler
7. Cut two grooves in the bottom of the wing to accept the UC wires
8. Glue into position

On the prototype I ended up epoxying a ice cream stick over the wire as well to reinforce it - my landing need a lot of improvement.

I will also post a drawing showing the location of the UC on the bottom of the wing.

Scott
Oct 27, 2004, 07:19 AM
Electric Orange
scotta's Avatar

Cowl


Like the Cub, I constructed the cowl by laminating formers and then wraping the cowl development around. Sand all to shape and then finish with some light weight filler.

I slightly modified the drawing so that the cowl should sit over the front edge of the battery hatch to hide it a little.
Oct 27, 2004, 07:50 AM
On patrol.
Cary Reeves's Avatar
Thanks for the additional drawings. I really would have waited patiently .

For anyone else that is building along, more clarification for the tail feathers fit is needed. I beveled both the VS slot and the HS slot so that the fuse extensions (A) between the slots form a nice fillet. However, I have now discovered that Scott probably intended the fuse extensions (A) to be pinched together underneath the VS at (B) like on the Cub. Since I seated the VS on the HS rather than on the pinched together extensions (A), my VS is 1/4 inch shorter than plan. I trimmed the rudder and it matches up fine. I like the look and fit of the fillets the way I cut them, but it's not to plan. Also, I think it was easier to fit everything together and glue up with the VS seated on the HS. But, to get the pieces to fit according to plan, be sure to match the rudder up to the tail feathers when you dry fit them to make sure you get it right.
Oct 27, 2004, 09:55 AM
On patrol.
Cary Reeves's Avatar
Why is the cooling hole off center in the cowl drawing? Is that a scale detail? Does it help with the fit? I'm thinking it might be easier to shape the cowl and then cut/drill a cooling hole after.
Oct 27, 2004, 04:19 PM
On patrol.
Cary Reeves's Avatar
Scott: If I position the wheel pants pieces the way you show on the drawing, there is a gap at the bottom (A). I think I will probably go with the alignment shown in the second photo so the center of the tear drop is lower. Am I missing something here?
Oct 27, 2004, 04:42 PM
On patrol.
Cary Reeves's Avatar
Cowl stacked up and tacked with CA. Inside view, outside view, and slathered with lightweight spackling on the outside and PU glue on the inside. As it dried, I wiped the spackling, kind of "wet sanding", with my finger tip. It actually makes a pretty good cowl that way. I'll post a picture later when I start to sand it. I will go back when its fully dry and sand away most of the spackling so that the cowl shape is in the foam. That will be stronger and less likely to chip. I was just trying this to see if it would work.

The alignment marks on the plans were much easier to use than the rib former from the Cub. BTW, it looks like three of the cowl formers are identical (#'s 2, 3, 4 I believe). Could have gotten by with one template for those three if I had paid attention .

I didn't cutout the cooling slot shown on the plans. I may cut one in later or I may opt not to have it. It should be easier to sand without it and I'm not sure I liked the look of it.
Last edited by Cary Reeves; Oct 27, 2004 at 04:50 PM.
Oct 27, 2004, 04:53 PM
Electric Orange
scotta's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cary Reeves
Why is the cooling hole off center in the cowl drawing? Is that a scale detail? Does it help with the fit? I'm thinking it might be easier to shape the cowl and then cut/drill a cooling hole after.
Cary,

Just a bit of scale detail. And it may be easier to form the hole after final assembly. My parts were CNC cut so they went together really nicely.

You were correct in saying that the rear of the fuse is just pulled together, exactly like the Cub.

Scott
Oct 27, 2004, 04:56 PM
Electric Orange
scotta's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cary Reeves
Scott: If I position the wheel pants pieces the way you show on the drawing, there is a gap at the bottom (A). I think I will probably go with the alignment shown in the second photo so the center of the tear drop is lower. Am I missing something here?
Cary,

The drawing is as I built it and yes you do get that little undercut. It did not look to bad once everything was sanded to shape. I will be able to take some photos of the Racer wing and UC on the weekend. I now live on the totally opposite side of town but my workshop is still out at the farm. Very frustrating, especially when you want to get some building done. And I have lost my flying feild.. well the one that I use to have at my back door anyway.

Scott
Oct 27, 2004, 05:00 PM
Electric Orange
scotta's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cary Reeves
Cowl stacked up and tacked with CA. Inside view, outside view, and slathered with lightweight spackling on the outside and PU glue on the inside. As it dried, I wiped the spackling, kind of "wet sanding", with my finger tip. It actually makes a pretty good cowl that way. I'll post a picture later when I start to sand it. I will go back when its fully dry and sand away most of the spackling so that the cowl shape is in the foam. That will be stronger and less likely to chip. I was just trying this to see if it would work.

The alignment marks on the plans were much easier to use than the rib former from the Cub. BTW, it looks like three of the cowl formers are identical (#'s 2, 3, 4 I believe). Could have gotten by with one template for those three if I had paid attention .

I didn't cutout the cooling slot shown on the plans. I may cut one in later or I may opt not to have it. It should be easier to sand without it and I'm not sure I liked the look of it.
Cary,

Sorry about that. Yes, former #1 should be about 1mm smaller thatn #2, and then as you say #2, 3 and 4 are the same. I just grabed my CNC path files.

The cowl is designed so that, as you said, the form in sanded into the foam. The join line between formers give a guide to sanding. It should only take a little spackle then to finisher her off. I do like how you did it though. Gives a little more bulk and will stiffen it up during sanding as well and it will probably give a better finish.

Now this would be a cowl to try finishing with FG Cloth and PU Resin (where is Mike? He loves this method).

Scott
Oct 27, 2004, 05:10 PM
Dismembered Member...
arx_n_sparx's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cary Reeves
Cowl stacked up and tacked with CA. Inside view, outside view, and slathered with lightweight spackling on the outside and PU glue on the inside. As it dried, I wiped the spackling, kind of "wet sanding", with my finger tip. It actually makes a pretty good cowl that way. I'll post a picture later when I start to sand it. I will go back when its fully dry and sand away most of the spackling so that the cowl shape is in the foam. That will be stronger and less likely to chip. I was just trying this to see if it would work.
Cary: I'll go ya one better. Let the spackle dry, and then "wet sand" it by wiping it with a damp cloth. You'll be surprised!

Brad
Oct 27, 2004, 05:12 PM
On patrol.
Cary Reeves's Avatar
I have the water based PU resin; need to get the cloth. Maybe I'll be the guinea pig and try glassing it. I've been wanting to try that anyway.
Oct 27, 2004, 08:18 PM
I crash, therefore I FLY!
mad mike's Avatar
"Now this would be a cowl to try finishing with FG Cloth and PU Resin (where is Mike? He loves this method)."

Yes, and that's how I'm going to do the cowl on the Cub(s)!

Got one airborne today! I'll post in the other thread on that, provided I don't fall asleep while typing it. . . ZZZZzzzzzzzzzzz.

Mike S.
Oct 28, 2004, 12:15 AM
On patrol.
Cary Reeves's Avatar
I'm really starting to like this plane .

I only had poster board so I laminated the plan and three pieces of poster board. The total thickness was ~0.050 or about 0.010 over the 1mm card stock called for. After I attached the cowl sheeting to the built-up forward section I went back and put a small amount of PU glue on the seams for strength. It got me thinking that it would be nice to have a thin PU coating all over the inside of the cowl. So I wrapped the fuse with waxed paper, brushed a thin coat of PU inside the cowl and slipped it on. It turned out very nice. Since the glue expands to fit the fuse it is a perfect fit; like a form fit holster. It is rigid enough that it holds its shape and slldes on w/o any need to wiggle around getting it started. I don't think it would need any kind of screws or other hold down in flight. I'll probably put a pair of small magnets in just for kicks.

I have reinforced some of the edges; e.g. around the wing saddle; with the PU also. This has a lot of potential for things like reshaping the saddle to change incidence, perfect canopy fits, etc.

The control surfaces are just lightly taped on for the picture. Lots of sanding to do and then I need to figure out what I'm going to glass and how. I think at least the canopy will get it. Maybe the whole plane. What do you all suggest?
Last edited by Cary Reeves; Oct 28, 2004 at 12:27 AM.
Oct 28, 2004, 12:17 AM
On patrol.
Cary Reeves's Avatar
Is anyone else building one?


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