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Jun 17, 2017, 09:35 PM
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Build Log

Ellipsis IOM - veneer strip build


This is my Build Log for a woodie IOM using veneer edge tape covered with fiberglass and epoxy.
<edit> I could not find unglued (non-pre-glued) edge veneer tape at my local wood supplier so I bought a roll of fir veneer - 12" x 84" and will slice it up myself. </edit>

Here is the link to the Frank Russell design IOM - Ellipsis I am building:
http://www.frankrusselldesign.com/plans/iom/
And here is the description:
Quote:
January 2017

FRD’s new IOM design Ellipsis… is finally ready and is available from my Plans Page. This design is a different approach to the Goth series. The boat has no chine but has the same volume distribution and excellent hull balance that make chine boats work. Advantages are simplicity as now only a single piece mold is needed for the hull. The deck has been widened slightly from the Goth Mk4 to increase the stay base for better rig control, while the waterline and hull wetted surface is actually less. There are two deck layouts offered. The conventional forward winch layout and an aft winch aft cockpit layout.
Last edited by Scratchy101; Jan 13, 2019 at 03:41 PM.
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Jun 17, 2017, 10:06 PM
The wind is free, go sailing!
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First order of business - Universal Build Board


Since retiring last year, my plan is to build IOMs for myself, as well as possibly building kits.
To this end, I started building a universal build board/frame which can be used for any sized boat up to 48" long.
I started off with a piece of 12" x 48" x 3/4" MDF from my local Windsor Plywood which was on sale for $0.99 each (i bought 4 pieces).

Here is the design - 2 pieces of straight 2x3 fir runners to keep it straight and flat.
Then a covering of counter-top laminate was glued down with contact cement.
Finally 10 - 1/4" holes drilled 4.5" apart to fasten the actual boat build board to the build frame.
Jun 17, 2017, 10:45 PM
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Build board - centering and spacing frames


Now that I a have a good solid flat surface to start my build on, I built the actual build board from another piece of $0.99 MDF cut down to 6" x 40" x 5/8".
I cut a slot 3.5mm wide down the centerline of this piece to be used to align the frames and spacers.
I put a piece of plywood in this slot which sticks 5mm above the board.
This serves 2 purposes, centering the frames and ensuring the frame spacers are exactly perpendicular to the centerline.

I cut up a 3.5mm slot down the center of a piece of 1x6 primed MDF.
I then cut up this slotted piece into 93.5mm lengths, since my frames are 6.5mm thick.
This provides the correct spacing of 100mm between frames.
The center spacer is 87mm long as the 2 frames are back to back and are 13mm combined thickness.
Last edited by Scratchy101; Dec 05, 2017 at 12:58 PM.
Jun 22, 2017, 12:40 PM
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Frames and Stringers


I drilled a 3/8" hole through the centerline of frames 1 - 9, 10mm above the waterline to insert a 3/8" wooden dowel for centering & stabilizing the frames.

The frames I used from the Ellipsis plans have 5mm subtracted for the thickness of the planking and fiberglass skin.
They are really designed for making a plug which is then used to make a fiberglass hull.

I used a 7.25" thin kerf saw blade in my 10" table saw to rip up the 1/2 x 42" board into 3.5mm strips.
I am using yellow cedar stringers to form the mold as well as the keelson and chine which will become part of the hull.
The veneer will be glued to the chine and keel strips which are held onto the frames with masking tape to allow removal from the frames once the hull is finished. The chine and keel strips are 12mm wide.
The stringer strips were ripped down to 10mm wide.
Jun 22, 2017, 01:03 PM
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Frame '0', Keelson and Chines


Frame '0' is a bit different as it is full size and is not part of the frame(shadows).
It becomes part of the boat where the bow bumper is glued to, so it must be made of plywood or some other stable wood that will hold the veneer.
It also has a second frame which is glued on the inside (towards frame 0.5) which is used to hold the stringers.

I marked the sheerline on the edge of the frames with a pencil and then added masking tape above the mark so the sheer strips will be removable, since these will be part of the hull. First I hot glued a thin 3.5mm x 3.5mm strip above (below with the hull upside down) the chine so that I could bend the 12mm wide chine strip over it. I also added masking tape to the back of the keelson & sheer strip for enhanced removal once the hull is finished.
I then hot glued the keelson and sheer strips to the frames.
You can see the keelson is 2 - 12mm strips held together with masking tape. The veneer strips will be glued to these and trimmed flush down the centerline.
In other words I am veneering each half of the hull separately and the strips will meet at the centerline.
Last edited by Scratchy101; Sep 09, 2021 at 10:54 AM.
Jun 23, 2017, 10:26 AM
Will fly for food
davidjensen's Avatar
with interest!.. Keep posting the pics.
Jun 27, 2017, 11:37 AM
Registered User
Earl Boebert has publish an article on cold molding for rc boats in the vintage boat magazine.

worth reading .....
Jun 27, 2017, 08:46 PM
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Scratchy101's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gio06226
Earl Boebert has publish an article on cold molding for rc boats in the vintage boat magazine.

worth reading .....
Thanks, I saw that article some time ago.
I am basing my build on a full scale build I did with my father back in the 1970's where we used 1/4" plywood laid diagonally over stringers with glass inside and outside . The proof will be in the pudding... this is more of a test than a known build technique for RC models.
Jun 27, 2017, 09:34 PM
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Nose Job!


The 2 pieces glued to frame 0 were not quite at the proper angle to match the hull shape, so I added some micro balloons filler to even things up.
I used 2 pieces of formica taped to the stringers and frame 0 to mold the filler to the correct shape.
Veneer will be glued to this and then frame 0 will be cut off at the sheer line and become part of the hull.
Jun 27, 2017, 09:43 PM
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Veneer test fit


I bought some fir veneer - 12" x 84" and cut one strip 1.5" wide x 84" long on my table saw.
I taped some clear packing tape to the back of the veneer fro stability and to prevent any glue from sticking to the stringers.
The tape will be cut away on the keel and chine stringers to allow it to be glued to these strips.
Each veneer strip must be custom cut/trimmed with scissors to fit flush with the previous strip.
The first layer of veneer will be angled backwards from the bow sheer line to the keel strip.
The second layer will be at 90° to the first layer, angled back from the bow waterline to the sheer line.
The second layer will be epoxy glued to the first layer.
Last edited by Scratchy101; Jul 08, 2017 at 12:05 PM. Reason: Added photos of packaged and cut up Fir Veneer
Jun 28, 2017, 07:25 AM
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Dirk25's Avatar
Looking great so far.
Keep it going not like my build. Slow and steady wins the race.
If you need to cut the veneer more accurately or take of very thin slices, I use a sharp Stanley knife and a strip of timber or a metal ruler. Just cut it with little pressure a few times to avoid ripping it.
Just my 2cents from working with a lot of veneer.
Dirk.
Jun 28, 2017, 11:53 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scratchy101
Thanks, I saw that article some time ago.
I am basing my build on a full scale build I did with my father back in the 1970's where we used 1/4" plywood laid diagonally over stringers with glass inside and outside . The proof will be in the pudding... this is more of a test than a known build technique for RC models.
I will have to wait for the pudding then .... I've been tinkering with cold molding for a while now (I even tried with packing paper ..... ) , but still have yet to figure a successful way (too keep the weight down and the process "simple") .... maybe I was over engineering the whole process to much .....


BTW, to cut veneer (the real one, not the thin 3 ply plywood) I found the the fabric cutting wheels work best .... few light passes (rolls) always give me a perfect cut, comparable to a veneer saw cut.
Jul 03, 2017, 03:13 PM
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T.D.'s Avatar
Hi Scratchy101,

Great job you are doing and thanks for posting this build. My boat building knowledge is limited but I think these techniques could be used for RC aircraft fuselage fabrication.

If you have a moment would you mind posting the source of the fir veneer you are using? I've tried Windsor Plywood, Home Depot etc. but no luck so far.


Tony
Jul 04, 2017, 07:43 PM
Registered User
Hey T.D.

Home Depot has pre-glued (hot-glue heat activated glue) solid wood veneer ... it is usually located in the shelving area ...

http://www.homedepot.com/p/13-16-in-...irch/204217130

If you still can't find it ...
the material is called "Wood Veneer Edgeband" ... comes either pre-glued or not ... in different wood types (ash, maple, oak etc)

Do a Google search for "Edgeband Veneer" there are lots of sources - including Amazon n eBay


May I suggest this as possible source for veneer ... see this link ...

http://www.veneersupplies.com/pages/...__Species.html

Never used them - but - google search makes sense to at least contact and ask about your needed ... width, thickness - glue vs no-glue ... type of wood

Maybe ... they have "Seconds or returns" at discount to you ??

Just a friendly suggestion
Last edited by slo.ca6; Jul 04, 2017 at 08:40 PM.


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