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Jun 05, 2017, 11:43 AM
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Build Log

Boldclash B05 tinyfish brushless build log from parts based on fishpepper design


Work in progress.
How I built this,
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I'm building this from parts spares available from boldclash. Based on parts from this.
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Description: frame https://www.boldclash.com/boldclash-...frame-kit.html
FC and ESC towerhttps://www.boldclash.com/boldclash-...dshot-600.html
Motors https://www.boldclash.com/boldclash-...ess-motor.html
At last I'm building this amazing tiny brushless quadcopter which should be around 30 grams ready to fly with camera and battery!
It will be similar to this https://www.boldclash.com/boldclash-...fpv-drone.html ready to fly version but I wanted to build it myself from spares available from boldclash and add my own camera as I enjoy the build just as much as flying.
I reviewed the parts used in these 2 threads bellow.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...initial-review
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...from-boldclash
I'll be noting any problems as I go so others can be prepared but it looks pretty simple, just VERY small!

Right, on with it.
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Motors are fitted, the screws that came with the 0703 motors were just a little longer than I was comfortable with and a little close to the windings when fitted to the frame, luckily I had some smaller ones from some other 1103 motors I'd not used yet, so a heads up right away , you will need smaller screws if you build from these motors, I contacted boldclash and they informed me that the ready build version has smaller screws than the screws in the motors as supplied individually ...
I used a tiny bit of locktight on each screw for security.
The exact screws needed are 1.6*3 and may be included with future sales of these motors.

Next up I need to fit the flight controller and ESC block, need to make sure I get it in so that the battery leads come out from the back and the rubber band lugs are to the sides.
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Last edited by nigelsheffield; Jun 09, 2017 at 12:57 AM.
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Jun 06, 2017, 05:19 AM
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Before starting soldering the motors I connected the FC and ESC to a my pc and made sure I could connect to blheli so I could reverse any motors that might need it and not have to worry about rotation direction as a I soldered each motor.
Thinking about it I decided to split the FC ESC to make assembling and soldering easier as I'd need to remove nuts to fit the camera mount anyway.
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The longer inner posts have cutouts so that they don't push on the fets etc so I will need to line up carefully when assembling again.
The smaller nuts don't have cutouts but do look like they are going to foul components on the boards, might not be able to safely tighten them up without damaging anything , I hope vibrations won't be an issue if I can't tighten them up but if they are I will have to look into that later. I spoke to boldclash about this and they are planning on using smaller bolts and screws in future so others who buy later on will probably be ok here.
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I decided to route the motor wires around the posts so that I did not have to cut wires too short and give some play and support in the wires and hopefully have them less likely to break off at the solder points.
I shortened wires with side cutters and then stripped a couple of mm off insulation by slowly rotating them on a sharpe knife and then pulling the end off.
I then tinned each wire and also the solder pads on the ESC.
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Using helping hands to hold the board at an angle which is easier for me to work with for soldering.
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I connected it up to a battery and tested with my taranis and to my relief all four motors spun...PHEW!

Next up I need to carefully assemble it all, I might add drop of hot glue to the antenna as this seems very delicate where it's soldered to the board.
The nuts that go on top won't fit into the camera mount properly (they are too big) and I'm wondering about finding some other method of fixing the camera mount.
Last edited by nigelsheffield; Jun 06, 2017 at 11:34 AM.
Jun 07, 2017, 02:19 AM
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After assembling it all I realised a couple of things.
1: the camera mount cannot be fitted with nuts, but the screw at the bottom of the stack WILL fit, so I have taken it all apart and will be trying to assemble it with the screw at the top instead of at the bottom.
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2: the spacer nuts are fouling components on the PCB and so I can't tighten them right up without risking breaking off the fets. Boldclash have informed me that this is a known problem and will be fixed with smaller nuts etc in a v2 version so shouldn't be a problem if you get this later on but for me now I need to think about it and see what I can come up with.

I might see if I can find some spacers which would act as soft mounts ....
Last edited by nigelsheffield; Jun 07, 2017 at 05:22 AM.
Jun 07, 2017, 05:21 AM
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Ok , I made some soft washers from silicon wire covering to replace the spacer nuts, and changed things around so that the screws will be on the top and therefore fit in the camera mount.
I then unsoldered the battery wire which had no connectors on it, and soldered on battery wire and camera power wire.
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A quick test and everything is still working.
I'm hoping the soft washers will act as soft mounts and dampen motor vibrations, obviously I lock tightened the nuts..
Thanks top screws will now either need to be shortened or again I might add some soft washers to try to get the video silky smooth might even do the FC too , may help with tuning issues that might arise with vibrations ...
Jun 07, 2017, 10:33 AM
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I soft mounted the FC and camera holder instead of cutting down the screws.
Set motor direction in blheli.
Then fitted the props and found that they were hitting the frame.
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A slight adjustment and light sanding on the mounts and frame and it cleared..... justl
Sooooo, a test flight.
Flew ok but needs rates adjusting , it has plenty of power but sluggish on all other controls for my liking, but would be ok for a beginner.
I had a lot of telemetry lost and a sudden loss of control after I punched the throttle and it went into the ceiling .
But I found out after that on a weak or low battery this was happening but on a fresh battery it was ok, probably something in betaflight I can do about that ... on my old 250mah lipo I got only 2 and a half minutes before telemetry lost announcement and battery was at 3.85v resting after flight and testing on my meter..
For now I am charging a few different batteries up to try before I set about pids etc.
No camera attached yet just flying line of sight.

A few more hovering flights and it's growing on me, just need better batteries as mine are all a bit weak on this build, the power is there but the FC is struggling with the drop in voltage and I add some power.
I got the cells voltage and vfas and current sensor telemtry working after some head scratching, you have to arm the quad and THEN discover new sensors on the taranis.
The voltage reported is not quite right though , it says 3.8v when battery is actually 4.2v, I adjusted in the taranis but will have a look at betaflight settings to see if I can adjust it there.
Set it in betaflight to 110 and it's reading correctly now.
Another idea I have is to add a capacitor on the battery line to see if that helps with the stability of the voltage and help prevent telemetry lost etc, but in reality I just think I need high c rated 350mah batteries to handle the high amp draw for these 15000kv motors ...
Last edited by nigelsheffield; Jun 08, 2017 at 12:48 PM.
Jun 08, 2017, 01:01 PM
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I set rates up to suit my flying , I like sensitive controls so took out a lot of the super rates and increased normal rates quite a bit , it flies more how I like it now.
Can't wait to fly this on some better batteries , it has a LOT of power even on my batteries but I cannot use it because FC goes to HOLD or resets when I try it give it power, I wonder if I can change something to give reduced motor power rather than losing control on these batteries , I have loads of them..
I will try a few different capacitors tomorrow to see if I can get any improvement.
Jun 09, 2017, 12:55 PM
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Playing with taranis and telemtry I now have displayed ,
current,
max current,
voltage
minimum voltage
Fuel ( seems to estimate amount of battery used )
Rssi
The sensor values are also available but I can't see much use for them on this quad.

So I checked values for hovering
Voltage minimum on my older 250mah batteries goes to 3.5v before I start getting problem and need to land, on my 150mah it could go to 3.4v
Current required to fly on the 250mah is 4 amps
On the 150mah cell it is less around 3 amp.
I should have some 350mah on the way soon so will be interesting to see those numbers on a new battery, I suspect the volts will stay higher and the current reduce a little ( at least until I punch the throttle lol )

Something I noticed on this is noisy motors, so I decided to investigate a bit more,
I connected it to blheli and tried lots of different settings, none made much difference so it was mechanical I think.
So I tried each motor in turn and 2 were fairly quiet and 2 noisy, rattling a bit,
I changed porpeller and checked balance but no difference.
Then I noticed the bell of the quiet motors was a bit loose an could move up and down on the shaft while the noisy ones were tight fitting?!?!?! Yes I expected it to be the other way around...
So I messed with the tight motors , removing props and taping the shaft to loosen it a little so it now had some slight p!ay like the others, I tried them and though the noise was still there is was much quieter and much more acceptable.
These tiny 0703 motors are so small and I did hit the ceiling and crash back to the floor on maiden due to the brown out so maybe I damaged something there....no big deal though, they still work..
Jul 09, 2017, 06:27 AM
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Ok these batteries arrived and I tested right away
http://www.boldclash.com/p/boldclash...attery-37.html
Flew 5:30 minutes before getting any telemtry lost

There was plenty of power for punch outs and loops and rolls were easy.
.

I will update first post and add this to the review I did on this FC/ESC combo advising that using this battery or a similar high c rated battery of similar size should be used.
Last edited by nigelsheffield; Jul 09, 2017 at 08:59 AM.
Jul 09, 2017, 12:00 PM
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9 July 2017 (2 min 0 sec)
Jul 12, 2017, 03:59 PM
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nice build! have you got a DVR footage?
Jul 12, 2017, 05:07 PM
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Thanks,
No DVR yet as no camera on there,
I will be putting one on soon to try it out and will obviously record it flying.
Just been a bit busy with the bamboo brushless and taming the 3s build.
Sep 30, 2017, 01:43 PM
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It has become apparent that there is a problem with the "telemetry lost" etc and control loss for short periods during flight especially as battery voltage drops, no only on my build but others are reporting the same.
Here is my suggested fix in 2 parts, first one is easy to try and if that does not fix it then the second option should work but you will lose voltage and current sensor info so use a timer is critical

Option 1
Simply change the battery connector over to a better one, maybe an xt30 to be absolutely sure but for a lighter option use a standard jst like this https://www.google.co.uk/search?clie...UBMqSM:&xxri=0
And use a good quality high c rated battery.

Option 2
If above didn't fix it then try this,
You will need to buy a small 5v step up booster / regulator , search for your own best size as they are changing all the time but at times work writing this one https://www.banggood.com/Mini-DC-DC-...html?rmmds=buy is nice a small and cheap but I don't know how good it is so might be worth looking for something that's proven.

Now you will need to change the wires between flight controller and ESC ,
Leave the negative wires as they are but add another black wire from the negative pad from FC to negative pad on the step up booster( or if easier cut the into black wire and solder it all to the negative of booster.)
Now the red wires,
At the FC unsolder the red battery wire and the red wire going between FC and ESC which is giving power to esc, take these wires one which is still connected to the ESC and the other to your battery positive and connect them both to the input of the step up booster.
Now add a wire between the output from the step up booster and the positive pad on the FC .
That's it apart from securing the booster somewhere on the quad.

What this will do is provide 5v to the FC even when battery voltage is very low and so the FC should work properly.
But you will not have correct telemetry for battery voltage or current fuel so you will need to time your flights so as not use too much battery capacity.

Hope this is fairly clear and please understand I accept no responsibility for any problems you may have ....
And no, I have not tried this myself yet because I have too many other projects at the moment lol and don't have a step up booster ...
But please let me know if you have any success with either of these methods.




Edit
There is another possible solution but requires very good soldering skills and knowledge of a good ldo regulator of the correct size,
Replacing the on board regulator for a better ldo type which can handle lower voltages and still provide enough current may fix the problem but I don't know which reg to use so any input from others with more experience is welcome.
Last edited by nigelsheffield; Sep 30, 2017 at 02:36 PM.
Oct 02, 2017, 09:55 AM
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I have a coupon code for 20% off for the boldclash b05.
http://www.boldclash.com/boldclash-b...-drone-p9.html

Coupon code 80b05-20171007
Nov 27, 2017, 03:13 AM
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Boldclash are having a cyber Monday sale
https://goo.gl/BKHBZC
Nov 28, 2017, 01:00 PM
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So I was able to do some testing on a friends B05 yesterday. Got it flying very well, except the RSSI failures.

Soft Mounted FC
Flashed to 3.2.2
Enabled Dynamic filters
Flashed to BLheli 16.7 for Dshot commands
Set up Turtle Mode and Dshot Beeper
Reversed Motor Direction
Reversed Props to match

Flys great until the RSSI gets low and it locks out. This is all indoors where we fly every other Whoop sized Quad without issue.

Ill see about turning off telemetry, then possibly getting him a 5v step up reg. We may just go with a racewhoop and an LR1000 or XM+


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