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Jul 01, 2017, 05:30 PM
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pdooley's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Calcifer
Ahhhh.. good to know Dooley... that must be why they are only 820w whereas the 3650 (3000, 3100, 3900) are about 900watts.....
take those ratings with a grain of salt.. 820W/900W, that's only a 9% difference, but the 540 is way more powerful than that.
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Jul 01, 2017, 08:48 PM
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Calcifer's Avatar
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Emu, I have both the brushed and brushless.... the only difference in the two is the esc, motor, battery tray, shocks and the body shell. They have the same alloy shock towers. The only unseen upgrade the pro has is ball bearings where the brushed has 'oil bearings' (bushes) and the spares I have include bearing sets (Plaig)

Dooley!! Are you trying to insinuate the Chinese dont always tell the truth??? Shame on you!.... Next you will be telling me Santa isnt real

Yes, the wattage is only an indication.... which seems to ring true....as a guide at least. That 380 motor with fins is obviously less power then the full size 540, and the big mofo 3660 2600kv is bigger wattage,,,,, the 3650 2740kv is in between.... like, the universe is at peace
Jul 01, 2017, 10:20 PM
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Sweet, when I was looking, some years ago now, I was pretty sure the top of the line one also came with al linkages, arms and hubs.
Jul 02, 2017, 02:22 AM
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Calcifer's Avatar
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No, all of the big alloy upgrades one has to do themselves... it is a real pandoras box you open when you start going alloy.... in my opinion, based on what I have read, if you do for example add alloy arms, the chassis tends to suffer damage from no give in the arms.... if you simply put an alloy chassis plate, the arms tend to break from no give in the chassis, if you have alloy chassis/arms/hubs then the swivel points and hardware will surely suffer so arms may need to be replaced because of fatigue and so on.

I have chosen only to get alloy hub carriers so the bearings don't flog out the plastic ones... other than that, I am happy to replace $2.50 arms if I have to.... besides, plastic can bend along way and there is a 50% chance it will survive.... bend alloy, it stays bent....

Emu, I think in the old days, HSP used plastic shock towers and other plastic components, but now they use all of the same base parts for all. I havent actually seen a top pro in the flesh, but from seeing what the specs say, it appears the upgrades are only the ESC and 2740kv motor. They might have thicker alloy shock towers, I am not sure, but the brushed and pro both have the same, thin towers, same junk wheels/tires.... same play everywhere .... but they still work pretty well.

Interestingly, my brushed came with the purple, non adjustable shocks.... the pro came with the blue screw adjustable ones.... I got extra blue adjustable shocks and put them on the brushed... but the blue adjustable are shorter and not as well made as the blue 'upgrades' so I have just bought a bunch of the purple base model ones. They are longer and I never adjusted the blue ones anyway, I would rather use the C clips.... so, not all 'upgrades' are benificial in my non expert opinion....

The wheels are really the only must to change imo.... they loose knobs from the first drive....
Jul 02, 2017, 07:37 AM
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my opinion is run it stock, see what fails, then consider if the upgrades are worth doing. sometimes a failed plastic part is just a fluke and won't happen again.
things like bearing holders may be worth doing though. just have to be aware sometimes the alu upgrades are sloppier than the original. seen that with expensive traxxas upgrade parts.
Jul 08, 2017, 05:07 AM
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I have some updates on what I have done so far....

Remember my brushed XSTR that was so boring and slow.... flat out everywhere.... (Yawn)...

Well, it aint brushed no mo!

It is a honking, 60A esc, 3100kv brushless MONSTER now .... with alloy rear hubs and bearings all round .... the diffs already had bearings, not bushes, but the hubs had 'oil bearings) .... in other words, bushes.

So now... it is at least as quick as the original 3300kv pro.... it hammers

What I find most amazing tho... is with a stock 3900mAh LiPo.... it still runs hard for over half an hour Even with the Floureon 6200mAh 40c it runs for close to 45 minutes???

I completely stripped the brushed one back to the frame.... I decided to fit the 3100kv with the 23 T pinion, it accellerates hard but reaches top speed early... being a lower kv motor, it will need the 26 teeth pinions I have coming..... I have some center drill bits so I can bore the 3.25mm pinions to 5mm for the 3660 2600kv monster honker motor

The good news is, the combo I fitted (60A 3100kv) ran for 40 minutes (hard running) and the motor was only warm... the esc was cool .... the esc was not in the slightest bit warm (after a slow drive back to my street car to put it away... the fan had got rid of any heat build up.... I had a 3S battery charged up and ready to honk.... but it was too dark... that is going to have it running at least 12" off the ground!!

So, anyone wanting to get a cheap first buggy, I would recommend getting a brushed XSTR ($US110).... A set of Plaig bearings ($US17) and a 3650/3660 low kv (under 3000kv) $US36 and voila.... you have a mega fast XSTR .... faster than a pro for around $US165 bux..... oh and some of those fake rimlock wheels I mentioned earlier from BG.... so, for about $US180.... a top pro beater I reckon

I still havent broken a single part? And man, have these things been punished (constantly)

I sure can not believe how much punch these have? After half an hours hard running (both of them).... they are still up for a wheelie

I am used to helicopters with 5-15 minute max flight time...... to hammer these things so hard for half an hour and still be going fast.... these are awesome!!

This is the motor/esc combo I am running with a 2S 6200mAh battery and the awesome stock battery the pro came with
Jul 08, 2017, 05:30 AM
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Here are the links for the bits I got.....

Brushed XSTR: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HSP-XSTR-...wAAOSwz71ZXH2k

Motor combo: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3650-3100...72.m2749.l2649


Bearings: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HSP-Racin..._apcE8597wRRAQ

Wheels/tires: https://www.banggood.com/search/aust...-climbing.html

Batteries: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2x-Floure...YAAOSwBOtY9YQu

This is the exact recipe for my brush convert.... the outcome is more than I expected... it goes every bit as well as the brushless pro.... better I think. I will try a 3S battery next time, but it is mental with 2S.... 3S will be completely bonkers I don't think 3S is necessary to be honest....

Remember, the prices from my links might show in Australian bux ($US1 = $AU0.75c) (Same as Canadian buck)

You will likely find cheaper over there, but at least you know these parts will all fit together and work astoundingly well....
Jul 08, 2017, 05:54 AM
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Oh.... and I accidentally bought one of these today too DoH!!

I will start a thread on that next

I really am not addicted.... I can give up RC stuff any time I want.... Honest

I just don't want.....

I have compared the price for brushed ($AU168 $US130) to Pro ($AU270 $US202) and Top version ($AU315 $US236) and all you get over the basic one is 3300kv brushless 45A esc for the pro (LiOn battery) and 60A 2740kv in the top with a 3S lipo. So, the top version is twice the price for a 60A esc and a $40 motor?

Mine will cost me the same upgrades as the ones I linked above.....

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HSP-RC-Mo...YAAOSw8w1X-Xad

Yes, I admit, I am a monster jam fan and yes, I am a Denis Anderson fan (and Ryan and Adam too) so even tho it is a rip off of Grave Digger, I had to get it

Oh, and some other Grave Digger shells for my XSTR... I would have loved the more lifelike Axial Grave Digger an MaxD... but $550 each?? for Nmhi toys? No can do... for now
Jul 10, 2017, 09:39 AM
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I fitted some rubber boots over the dog bone on the left rear of the brushed now brushless one... It has had a good first thrashing.... er, I mean test... the little boots stayed on and seem fine.

It was a PITA to get them on the dog bone because the small hole in the boot is very small... had to push the pin out of one end of the dogbone. I will push out the pins of some new dog bones and fit the boots... then swap them out.

I also put some little slices of 4mm hose in the socket to center the dogbones... you can use o rings... it just stops the dogbone rattling in the socket.

I got the little boots from BG about $US2 a pair.... They are a bummer to get on... but will keep the dogbone end and socket clean and greased

https://www.banggood.com/search/tfl-...cket-1111.html
Jul 17, 2017, 12:19 PM
Please call me Dana
dteel's Avatar
Looks like a good mod adding the dog bone boots. You'll have to keep us informed on how they hold up.

Question, have you really had that much problem with wear on the dog bones that you needed to find a solution?
Jul 18, 2017, 09:59 PM
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Dana, the little boots are awesome... the only pita is that to fit them, you need to push a pin out of one end of the dog bone, slide on the boots, one each way, then put the pin back in.... then fit the dog bone... I broke 2 dogbones working out how to do it.... Once I have the new dog bones I ordered, I will put the boots on, then fit the dogbones to the cars. It makes cleaning them a breeze and the dog bones dont rattle in the sockets....
Jul 18, 2017, 10:19 PM
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So, my poor brushless pro was beginning to rattle and click and make funny noises (still went well)

So I decided to do a MINOR overhaul


It has only done about 15 packs... but very hard packs mind you

So, What broke?

Not much really.... the rattling was the front dog bones... quite badly bent.... also, one of the front suspension swivel pins was bent that must have been a hard hit

There was a few C clips missing.... and the alloy shock mounts ( 3mm) were bent....

That is the damage bill for hours and hours of caning... I am very happy with that.....

I have decided I like having a more realistic body on them after driving my grave digger, so I am fitting a truck body on it, so I have put body post mounts and have ordered some monster truck arms and dog legs.

So, I removed the wing mount from the rear and fitted another front shock mount on the rear with body post bracket each end.... will mount the body later on today.

The alloy shock towers were both bent so I replaced them.... the reason they bend is because there is only one ball mount for the shock on one side... any hard landing puts a turning moment on the shock mount.... Once I get the monster truck arms, I will fit twin shocks, so a hard landing will put pressure on both sides of the shock tower, so it shouldn't bend

The brushless one that I fitted the 60A 3650 3100kv setup has broken its rear diff too... I will change that too... but that was entirely my fault.... I have a 19 tooth pinion on it (the brushless pro has 26T) so the 3100kv just constantly goes 100% torque so the gears get the shock of their lives

I have some 26T pinions coming, and some 29T see how they go

I love these things.... they are awesome
Last edited by Calcifer; Jul 21, 2017 at 06:38 AM.
Jul 19, 2017, 01:51 AM
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I also found a small issue with the 'fake rimlock' wheels I like and recommend. Yes, they are great, but I have learned why they are 'crawling tires' . I continue to use them and am happy with them, but they do 'grow' (alot) at high rpm/speed. So, as long as you know that when you put them on a fast vehicle, they need to be glued on well and they will wear funny.

I noticed because I picked up my brushless by the wing mount and revved it .... the tires grow maybe 25% in diameter and are only half their width

The fact they 'grow' isnt that bad.... it simply explains why the tires wear how they do (more in the middle)

But for the price, I will continue to use them... they are so cheap and plenty strong enough... they do harden with age and use so they slip more on tar as they get older, I am sure on dirt only, they would last heaps longer...

I am still very happy with them for general bashing
Jul 21, 2017, 06:49 AM
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I have got all of the bits coming to make these into monster trucks... I am so happy with how my 'grave digger' goes and handles... and how good the tires I have on the digger, I want to make them all the same....

So, the parts I have coming is 2 sets of the longer A arms, the big fat shock towers for twin shocks, the spring loaded back and front bumpers...

I cant understand why, but the monster corners way harder and more precise than the XSTR? I say I cant understand because the truck has a higher ground clearance and higher CofG... so it should tip easier on corners.... but it doesnt? ... and I like the look of the body (grave digger or truck) than the basic XSTR... So, I will keep one an XSTR and the rest can be trucks

Having twin shocks will also stop the twisting of the shock tower too, because the 2 shocks will push the same on both sides of the tower

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...Digger-edition
Aug 01, 2017, 08:17 AM
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My original brushless pro now has a truck body on it

I kike more realistic bodies than the usual XSTR type of shell. One thing that did happen to my monster truck, It went front wheel drive only. I thunk I had ripped the pins off the dogbone, but turned out I had changed the hexes for alloy, but I got the hex with no clamp bolt or grub screw... so the only thing doing all of the drive was the pin. I think I didnt have the pin perfectly in the slot on the hex.... here is a link to my digger thread... there is pics of what I mean... it is relevant to XSTR's too

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...Digger-edition
Last edited by Calcifer; Aug 01, 2017 at 08:38 AM. Reason: add pics


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