VISUO XS809HW WIFI FPV With Wide Angle HD Camera High Hold Mode Foldable Arm RC Quadc - Page 5 - RC Groups
Thread Tools
Jul 25, 2017, 07:17 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoLimitRC
Mine had the Micro USB port ripped off, you can notice the usb port freely moving, remove the 4 screws on the battery to check if that is the case, if not maybe it is just your USB Cable and or Charger.

If it is broken you will have to either replace the micro USB port or solder new JST leads onto the main PCB (highly recommend as you can use other batteries), you will also have to cut off the circuit board on the battery and solder on new jst leads. Watch out for polarity and heat when soldering the lipos.
Mine seems to be working, I mean the charging cable, but there's a problem with battery or that small pcb, because it's not charging at all. I've tried using working wallchargers with this usb cable, but it didn't work. The red led shows up just for a millisecond then disappears and it seems that the battery is not being charged, I can say it after a few tries and leaving it to charge for 2 hours, nothing has helped. I think that my battery is just faulty and I will have to use the JST - new battery mod. Why would I have to cut off the circuit board on the battery and solder on new jst leads? Did you say it in case someone wanted to fix the battery itself?
Isn't soldering the jst cable to the drone's main pcb where that battery port just enough? I don't want to mess up so I thought that I'd be safer now than sorry later if I ask.
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Jul 25, 2017, 07:33 PM
I have a degree in crashing!
NoLimitRC's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by kondziu124
Mine seems to be working, I mean the charging cable, but there's a problem with battery or that small pcb, because it's not charging at all. I've tried using working wallchargers with this usb cable, but it didn't work. The red led shows up just for a millisecond then disappears and it seems that the battery is not being charged, I can say it after a few tries and leaving it to charge for 2 hours, nothing has helped. I think that my battery is just faulty and I will have to use the JST - new battery mod. Why would I have to cut off the circuit board on the battery and solder on new jst leads? Did you say it in case someone wanted to fix the battery itself?
Isn't soldering the jst cable to the drone's main pcb where that battery port just enough? I don't want to mess up so I thought that I'd be safer now than sorry later if I ask.
The circuit board inside is made to charge the battery using 5v from USB power supplies, you could solder on a JST lead on to the board itself but it will not fit as the charger port goes into the frame, you are better off resoldering a new micro usb connector instead.
Also if you do the JST mod you can use other batteries, I cut off the circuit board and soldered a jst lead and use it, you can throw away the black casing aswell. Most or All JST chargers sold have a circuit board built into the USB connector.

Remember a USB power supply is usually 5v, a 1s lipo should be charged at only 4.2v, if you were to make a JST lead to charge using the circuit board, never use the same cable for other lipos!


I will upload some pics to better help you understand later. Please wait for them.

To check if your battery is dead, just use a volt meter. Let us know how much it shows.
Jul 25, 2017, 08:39 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoLimitRC
The circuit board inside is made to charge the battery using 5v from USB power supplies, you could solder on a JST lead on to the board itself but it will not fit as the charger port goes into the frame, you are better off resoldering a new micro usb connector instead.
Also if you do the JST mod you can use other batteries, I cut off the circuit board and soldered a jst lead and use it, you can throw away the black casing aswell. Most or All JST chargers sold have a circuit board built into the USB connector.

Remember a USB power supply is usually 5v, a 1s lipo should be charged at only 4.2v, if you were to make a JST lead to charge using the circuit board, never use the same cable for other lipos!


I will upload some pics to better help you understand later. Please wait for them.

To check if your battery is dead, just use a volt meter. Let us know how much it shows.

I wish to say sorry in advance, but English is not my native language and some misunderstandings by my side could happen, also it's 2.30 AM here and I'm rather sleepy.
Thank you for your response.
Firstly, I don't know what's faulty with my battery, the micro usb, the whole board or maybe the cables or the soldering made to connect them to this board.
So you've modded this circuit board and soldered jst lead to be able to charge other batteries using it and threw away the original battery, yes? I think I will begin from doing so, like you're telling me to.
Yes, I remember it, but how do I charge that lipo battery then with it? I can't right? Or is this why I need that circuit board first to charge the battery correctly? I will try and do my best to remember all your guidelines.

Will wait patiently.

I don't have it currently, I've just checked it by the trial and error method, by checking firstly if the usb cable is working, using different chargers, trying to charge the battery with the original cable ofc. and different usb chargers and so on, but it didn't help. Just as I said earlier, even the disappearing red led from usb charging cable is hinting that's something wrong either with micro usb port for that battery or with the battery itself. I've also checked it by unscrewing the black case and checking if the soldering work is well made - it seems fine in my opinion. I can only speculate now, try to re-solder the wires and maybe changing this micro-usb port to a different one.
Jul 26, 2017, 04:15 PM
Registered User
Managed to make a JST bec cable mod for this drone today, soldered everything correctly (like + to + and so on), I also had a spare 2000mah (new one, but never used, I think it's on about 30% of power) 3,7v battery, but with jst-ph cable, cut of the end and soldered and isolated (with isolating tape) the other end of jst bec cable.
Drone is working, I mean the lights, the wifi is showing up and it doesn't disappear (hooray), also I can manually start the engines.
The only problem is that the engines don't get enough power as if the battery wasn't charged enough (fully), the drone can't fly up, auto take-off etc.
The engines rotate slowly (slower than on the lowest speed setting) and when I want the drone to fly up the power is being cut-off which means they don't get enough of it to increase their rotation speed.
I will check everything on this friday, whenever I get a proper JST bec charger. If someone could, please tell me if I'm right or wrong, or maybe in between.
Jul 26, 2017, 06:27 PM
I have a degree in crashing!
NoLimitRC's Avatar
Sorry I was busy and couldn't upload the picture,
I would suggest getting a multimeter (voltmeter) and check if your battery is at 4.2v or 4+V even, if it is, then you might not have soldered the wires properly (cold joints, high resistance, not enough volts being passed through the wires. Are you using a thick enough JST connector? Some pictures would really help.

Also , since you already have the quadcopter taken apart, cut a small hole on the top part and let the antenna stand vertically as shown in here https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...8&postcount=50
Jul 26, 2017, 07:56 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoLimitRC
Sorry I was busy and couldn't upload the picture,
I would suggest getting a multimeter (voltmeter) and check if your battery is at 4.2v or 4+V even, if it is, then you might not have soldered the wires properly (cold joints, high resistance, not enough volts being passed through the wires. Are you using a thick enough JST connector? Some pictures would really help.

Also , since you already have the quadcopter taken apart, cut a small hole on the top part and let the antenna stand vertically as shown in here https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...8&postcount=50
Not a problem, thanks anyway for helping me out and answering!
I consider buying it as soon as I come back from my holiday trip. it'll be helpful, not only for drones.
I was soldering everything under the eye of someone more experienced than me and we're mostly sure that all should be good, but it's not, somehow. I can also try and re-solder, change cables and so on. I'm happy that at least the soldering on the drone's PCB is working fine or it seems to be this way, also it'd be easier to just re-solder the battery cables on so on instead of the ones already soldered onto this main PCB
I think that not enough volts passing through might be the problem and the fact that a thin wire has been soldered with a thicker one, (2 pin white jst cables with thicker jst bec ones) this might also be the reason of not enough power flowing through it, I think. I will upload some pictures later on as it's late nighttime here, please give me some hours (like 10-12, from now on). And yes I'm using a JST bec cable for both - the drone PCB and that battery I mentioned earlier - exactly like this one:

cable http://technovade.pl/media/catalog/p...re-jst-m_0.jpg

battery http://allegro.pl/lipo-li-po-3-7v-1s...GM%3D#imglayer

I haven't found thinner or thicker jst bec cables, I'm using the most common one.

I think I will try to also mod the original battery with jst bec cable and getting rid of that micro-usb circuit board as it seems that's not working. I'm getting 2 chargers for jst bec and jst 2 pin (white ones) on this friday, hoping that something will move on from then. I did this antenna modification already, everything works fine, there's just a problem with charging/battery/not enough power for the rotors to achieve higher speeds.

I have also tried to charge that original battery, thru it's original charging cable micro-usb port, with a wallcharger 5v, 1,8 amp for the last time...left it for 2 hours, but nothing's literally happened. On friday I think I will cut off the circuit board, add jst bec cable end, charge this original battery and test it. My friend will (also on friday) bring his 100% working and properly charged jst bec battery 3,7 1200mah for me to test everything first. To exclude once and for all some possible problems with internal pcb damage and so on so I'd only focus on battery problems.

Attaching links with a pair of photos and a video showing the most recent problem I'm writing about.
20170727 130458 (0 min 33 sec)
Last edited by kondziu124; Jul 27, 2017 at 07:31 AM.
Jul 28, 2017, 01:00 PM
Registered User
Got everything today (including a new battery). This one is 1600mah, 20C, 3,7v and it's working perfectly, but it seems that it's to heavy (41g) and the original one weighs about 20-21g. My drone can't fly higher than knee-stomach height, sometimes it can fly a lil bit higher, but mostly sticks to knee height. With the original one it could fly normally, before it turned out that this battery is broken and wouldn't charge anyhow. It's still better to have a working drone that none. I think I'll get a lighter one, like 3,7 20C 1200mah, 28g or maybe even lighter.

Also I wantd to make sure, it turned out that my friend gave me a 1C 3,7 2000mah battery to test it with my drone, but it couldn't even fly up, when I wanted it to do so the power was cut off, so the problem is this whole C value?
1c battery couldn't allow my drone to fly, but with 20c one it's working.
Jul 30, 2017, 12:31 PM
Registered User
ipsuey's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by kondziu124
Got everything today (including a new battery). This one is 1600mah, 20C, 3,7v and it's working perfectly, but it seems that it's to heavy (41g) and the original one weighs about 20-21g. My drone can't fly higher than knee-stomach height, sometimes it can fly a lil bit higher, but mostly sticks to knee height. With the original one it could fly normally, before it turned out that this battery is broken and wouldn't charge anyhow. It's still better to have a working drone that none. I think I'll get a lighter one, like 3,7 20C 1200mah, 28g or maybe even lighter.

Also I wantd to make sure, it turned out that my friend gave me a 1C 3,7 2000mah battery to test it with my drone, but it couldn't even fly up, when I wanted it to do so the power was cut off, so the problem is this whole C value?
1c battery couldn't allow my drone to fly, but with 20c one it's working.
The C's are pretty much the AMPS that battery can discharge. Original battery can discharge 25Amps , so you're trying to fly a drone that requires 25Amps be default with a 1 Amp battery.
Jul 30, 2017, 11:55 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoLimitRC
Sorry I was busy and couldn't upload the picture,
I would suggest getting a multimeter (voltmeter) and check if your battery is at 4.2v or 4+V even, if it is, then you might not have soldered the wires properly (cold joints, high resistance, not enough volts being passed through the wires. Are you using a thick enough JST connector? Some pictures would really help.

Also , since you already have the quadcopter taken apart, cut a small hole on the top part and let the antenna stand vertically as shown in here https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...8&postcount=50
I want to install a low voltage monitor on the drone. Could you please advise on if I should just come to it to the battery conector inside the drone or I am going to screw it up? Thanks
Jul 31, 2017, 04:42 AM
I have a degree in crashing!
NoLimitRC's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Linkf1
I want to install a low voltage monitor on the drone. Could you please advise on if I should just come to it to the battery conector inside the drone or I am going to screw it up? Thanks
The drone auto lands/does not take off, around 3.7v, so there is no need for a lipo alarm.

You could solder a female jst lead and make a male to male connector( one to connect to the female jst on the drone and then the other to the lipo meter), this way you can use other lipos later.


You could also buy this and have a buzzer at 3.5v but like I said the drone has a low voltage cutoff. http://www.fpvhobby.com/149-1s-lipo-...age-alarm.html

Or this
3.7V/7.4V /11.1V/14.8V Li-po Battery Indicator Display Board Power Storage Monitor
https://banggood.app.link/krYzANC0dF

But keep in mind it adds unnecessary weight and could affect performance.


Edit: found a cheaper buzzer
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykin...onitor-1s.html
Last edited by NoLimitRC; Jul 31, 2017 at 05:20 AM.
Jul 31, 2017, 04:52 AM
I have a degree in crashing!
NoLimitRC's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by kondziu124
Got everything today (including a new battery). This one is 1600mah, 20C, 3,7v and it's working perfectly, but it seems that it's to heavy (41g) and the original one weighs about 20-21g. My drone can't fly higher than knee-stomach height, sometimes it can fly a lil bit higher, but mostly sticks to knee height. With the original one it could fly normally, before it turned out that this battery is broken and wouldn't charge anyhow. It's still better to have a working drone that none. I think I'll get a lighter one, like 3,7 20C 1200mah, 28g or maybe even lighter.

Also I wantd to make sure, it turned out that my friend gave me a 1C 3,7 2000mah battery to test it with my drone, but it couldn't even fly up, when I wanted it to do so the power was cut off, so the problem is this whole C value?
1c battery couldn't allow my drone to fly, but with 20c one it's working.
Do not exceed 1000mah, also make sure it is 20-25c, higher is better.
Bossy Syma X5SW X5SC Spare Part 3.7V 1000Mah 25C Va32 Upgraded Lipo Battery
https://banggood.app.link/XV3ovFJ0dF
These are what I recommend^

For your 1c lipo make sure you use heatshrink to insulate wires.

For the drone:
Unsolder your jst from the pcb , cut the leads shorter and make sure it is not touching other electronics, in your picture you posted they are too long and could touch other parts.

https://static.rcgroups.net/forums/a...9jstcnnctr.jpg

Do something like that , bridge the middle pad aswell as it is positive. Use a long jst lead so that you can run it to the back like shown in the pic,
Jul 31, 2017, 07:56 AM
Registered User
Is there any way to turn off altitude hold?
Jul 31, 2017, 02:41 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by siriusflier
I actually like this quad, but there are a couple of problems with it. First, the proprietary battery takes a long time to charge, and secondly, there is a backward drift. So I decided to take it apart and see if there was anything I could do to fix those problems.
There are 8 screws in the bottom to hold the main part of the body together, and there are 4 bolts where the arms pivot that have to be removed. In addition, there are 3 screws holding the motor/gear mounts together. All of the screws are the same except for the prop mount screws. You have to use a blade to remove the friction fitted chromed prop cap to get to the prop screw. Not really hard to take apart at all.
First I looked at where the antennas are mounted inside. The antenna that partially protrudes from the bottom of the quad is the camera wifi antenna. the receiver antenna is pointed straight forward from the fcb and surrounded by motor and LED wires, I left it there to do a range test, but it could be raised up or poked through the upper body. I thought the fcb might not be mounted level or correctly, but it appeared to be close to right.
Attachment 10092548 Attachment 10092549
Attachment 10092550

I took a motor pod apart to see what size motors the quad has because it is almost impossible to tell with them mounted and enclosed. The motors are 8.5mm diameter and 20mm long, so classic 0820s. The only marking on the bottom of the motor is LX. Motor pinions have 11 teeth and appear to be 0.3 modulus. The large gear is pressure fitted on an aluminum shaft.
Attachment 10092551 Attachment 10092552 Attachment 10092553

Then I checked batteries I have that would fit into the battery bay and decided to install an external red JST battery plug. To do that was fairly simple, I took a JST plug with a long wire, drilled two small holes for the wire to go through, and soldered the wires to the battery terminals on the fcb. Now I can still use the stock battery in it's case, but can also use several of my 1S batteries with JST plugs.
Attachment 10092554

After reassembling the quad, I did a hover test indoors to see if the backward drift was still there. I used a battery that I could push farther forward into the battery bay to see if I could move the center of gravity forward a little. It still drifted backwards, and took a lot of trim to get it to stop. Still might need to change the position/level of the fcb.
When you add the JST cables, do you solder the + to both middle and right (+) or just to the right part? I am a noob, so forgive if it sound stupid but I just want to make sure. So, should I solder the negative and the positive to the extremes or the positive to the extreme and the middle. Thanks.
Jul 31, 2017, 04:47 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by kondziu124
Not a problem, thanks anyway for helping me out and answering!
I consider buying it as soon as I come back from my holiday trip. it'll be helpful, not only for drones.
I was soldering everything under the eye of someone more experienced than me and we're mostly sure that all should be good, but it's not, somehow. I can also try and re-solder, change cables and so on. I'm happy that at least the soldering on the drone's PCB is working fine or it seems to be this way, also it'd be easier to just re-solder the battery cables on so on instead of the ones already soldered onto this main PCB
I think that not enough volts passing through might be the problem and the fact that a thin wire has been soldered with a thicker one, (2 pin white jst cables with thicker jst bec ones) this might also be the reason of not enough power flowing through it, I think. I will upload some pictures later on as it's late nighttime here, please give me some hours (like 10-12, from now on). And yes I'm using a JST bec cable for both - the drone PCB and that battery I mentioned earlier - exactly like this one:

cable http://technovade.pl/media/catalog/p...re-jst-m_0.jpg

battery http://allegro.pl/lipo-li-po-3-7v-1s...GM%3D#imglayer

I haven't found thinner or thicker jst bec cables, I'm using the most common one.

I think I will try to also mod the original battery with jst bec cable and getting rid of that micro-usb circuit board as it seems that's not working. I'm getting 2 chargers for jst bec and jst 2 pin (white ones) on this friday, hoping that something will move on from then. I did this antenna modification already, everything works fine, there's just a problem with charging/battery/not enough power for the rotors to achieve higher speeds.

I have also tried to charge that original battery, thru it's original charging cable micro-usb port, with a wallcharger 5v, 1,8 amp for the last time...left it for 2 hours, but nothing's literally happened. On friday I think I will cut off the circuit board, add jst bec cable end, charge this original battery and test it. My friend will (also on friday) bring his 100% working and properly charged jst bec battery 3,7 1200mah for me to test everything first. To exclude once and for all some possible problems with internal pcb damage and so on so I'd only focus on battery problems.

Attaching links with a pair of photos and a video showing the most recent problem I'm writing about.
https://youtu.be/ztgISKnuGpE
I have the exact same problem. How did you fix your problem? Was it the battery or what? THANKS a lot!
Jul 31, 2017, 05:00 PM
I have a degree in crashing!
NoLimitRC's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Linkf1
I have the exact same problem. How did you fix your problem? Was it the battery or what? THANKS a lot!
Could be due to several reasons, open up the battery (4 screws) and see if the microusb connector has come loose.


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Discussion Eachine E52 WiFi FPV Selfie Drone With High Hold Mode Foldable Arm RC Quadcopter RTF siriusflier Mini Multirotor Drones 32 Nov 09, 2017 04:42 AM
Mini-Review Eachine E52 WiFi FPV With High Hold Mode Foldable Arm RC Quadcopter noamsmadja Mini Multirotor Drones 3 May 18, 2017 11:59 PM
New Product Cheerson CX-17 WiFi FPV With Wide Angle Camera High Hold Mode Pointing Flight victor_aem Micro Multirotor Drones 1 Jan 20, 2017 03:24 AM