Oh, yeah... I killed my shiny new SE. I remember reading about this boobytrap in the Plus ages ago, so have religiously unplugged the battery in every Plus I've owned before unplugging/replugging the ribbon cables.

But this afternoon I got ahead of myself doing some side by side testing with my original Plus and unplugged the battery in the WRONG TARANIS , then I removed the ribbon cables and now I'm paying the price. It's just annoying that it's my shiny new Plus SE, which I've already started to Mod.


Afterwards I plugged it into USB and confirmed I have 3.3v on Vcc but no signs of life, so I knew it was the STM32 immediately; I already have the mainboard out & prepped. My preferred method when there are tiny components right next to the CPU is to forget the Hot Air and ChipQuick; they're messy and don't allow you much control.




Before we start we're going to put a slip of paper under the coin cell on the mainboard for safety's sake, then pop it back in the holder. I've learned the hard way; a coin cell loose on the bench is as good as lost, and if you put it in your parts bin, it invariably gets shorted out against something metal and gets dead.

The safest place in the world for the coin cell is right back in the holder.




First, you need a fresh blade in your X-Acto knife; this method requires a steady hand and smooth cutting action. Cut right against the resin body of the chip in a single fluid motion from one side of the chip to the other with moderate pressure; practice removing chips on a junk board and you'll get the right amount of pressure after just a few tries. When you're cutting right, it will feel just like unzipping a zipper.




Now we're ready to remove the cut off legs...




... and the trick for that, as with everything else soldering related, is good flux. If you can find the 64-022 in one of the last remaining Radio Shacks, it's a good Rosin flux (I loathe working with the halogenated fluxes so popular with lead-free solder) that will make the legs come off easy while prepping the board in the same step.




A nice little line of flux...




... and a lightly tinned iron at 340-380°C to keep from burning up the board. Watch carefully and when the solder starts to wet, wipe the legs off 2-5 at a time VERY gently. If you feel ANY resistance, STOP and let the solder melt again.

Wipe the legs off on your wet sponge as you work your way around...





... and you'll be rewarded with a nicely fluxed set of pads ready to solder to.


I'll stop back and finish this little "DIY" once I have my new STM32 in hand.

Cheers,

mnem
*Toddles off to ded*

Can't believe you broke it so fast lol!
Hope this fixes it, this method of replacing the sm chips is how I have done it in the past with success, though occasionally I managed to damage the print but noticed by checking continuity religiously before soldering on new chip.
I much preferred replacing a through hole chip in the good old days of my TV repairs...
Waiting with interest and baited breath!

Yeah; along about the same time I'll be doing a new Backlight mod, just to see if I like WS2812s better.


mnem
*Lit AF*

The ws2812 LEDs are fun,
New name badge too perhaps ?
Taranis disco
Or taranis rainbow?

Taste the Rainbow.


I did this mod ages ago, back when I first got my original Plus. Now I'm working on a WS2812 version to see if the refresh rate works better, and to see if the RF Remote can cohabitate safely with all the other RF inside a Taranis.


mnem
Pants are highly overrated.

Hello,
And finally, did you succeed to resurrect the board ?
The same thing happened to me and I am tempted to follow your path...