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Jul 07, 2017, 07:16 AM
Delusional Wanna-Be
John Rood's Avatar

Quick flashback: My wacky Guillow's 900-series T-28


Quote:
Originally Posted by K5083
...These are Guillows' easy-to-build kits with large slab fuselage sides. I found the six subjects selected for this series rather odd. The Skyraider, the O-1 and possibly the Mustang are reasonable sources for a slab-sided build. The T-28, Typhoon and Chipmunk all have oval section fuselages and just don't look right. They would have been nice 400-series (keel and bulkhead) subjects...
Almost thirty years ago I went wacky with this very same scale fidelity fandango frustration! But we all know that everybody just HAS TO build a T-28 at least once in their lifetime, so I got wacky with stock 8.5x11 inch letter-size paper and built this insane "skin-like-painted-aluminum" reimagining of that kit for free-flight rubber scale in the Flying Aces Club.

Hand-decorated generic letter-size copier paper over a severely lightened balsa frame; Guillow's canopy was impossibly large, etc., so I finagled it and still it was a mess; some home-made NAVY lettering here and there to upgrade a bit from the Guillow's kit-issue ones; panel lines (crucial) in pencil, and red permanent marker to suggest that elusive "faded hi-viz paint in the hot sun" patina.
;-)
She flew at Geneseo 1990, no great shakes and by no means the Queen of Torsional Strength. But ohhhh those sexy curves! I am not right in the head, I know. OCD is incurable!
;-)
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Jul 07, 2017, 07:22 AM
Delusional Wanna-Be
John Rood's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKellyvich
...I built this kit back in 1995 for rubber - still have it, and it still flies very well. You can make it look much more scale-like with just a little modification. Build up the rear fuselage to fair in the fin by replacing formers H, J and the forward fin post with appropriately tapered replacements, sheet the cowling and the fuselage back to the cockpit with soft 1/32" sheet, and replace the plastic scoops with carved balsa. See bone pics below (sorry for the poor quality, scanned from 1995-vintage photos). I also added carved foam wheel door fairings. Completed model with prop weighs 24g without rubber...
Mike that is gorgeous! Great job!!!
Jul 07, 2017, 08:42 AM
Oh! Just love model
K5083's Avatar
Thread OP
Yes, nice job. Way better looking than a stock Guillows T-28 build. I think you will love the way micro electrics give a new dimension to flying these old rubber kits and also let you relax (a little) the old light-weight obsession in building.

August
Jul 07, 2017, 03:23 PM
Registered User
MKellyvich's Avatar
Thanks John - I'm going to clean it up and fly it in Modern Military at WestFAC this October. Interesting approach on the T-28. For more fun with balsa and bond paper, check out this:

http://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/...?topic=21757.0

How's your build coming, August?

Cheers,

Mike
Jul 07, 2017, 03:35 PM
Oh! Just love model
K5083's Avatar
Thread OP
Mike, my build is coming along okay. I'll post a photo update this weekend.

August
Jul 07, 2017, 08:14 PM
Delusional Wanna-Be
John Rood's Avatar
The National Naval Aviation Museum posted these two wonderful 1950s-vintage images today on their Facebook page.
The Able Dog!
Last edited by John Rood; Jul 09, 2017 at 11:17 AM.
Jul 08, 2017, 02:14 PM
Registered User
What servos are you pairing up with your receiver/esc/motor?

I am going to attempt a Guillows 500 series conversion, and am trying to compare weights with the brushless motors between a brick style with integrated servos vs a lemon rx with discrete servos.

Btw, had you seen the 1103 motor? down to 3.7 grams in weight
Jul 08, 2017, 04:39 PM
Oh! Just love model
K5083's Avatar
Thread OP
I am using 1.7g "Orlandoo OH35P01" servos that appear to be clones of the Hobbyking 5320.

A brick layout would be equally viable for most of the Guillows 500/900 series kits; I have done a couple. Might be a little lighter, but you'd have less discretion in component placement. No problem for something like the Hellcat or Avenger but for the skinny planes like the 109 or Stuka, it might be harder to fit a brick in there.

I have a 4-pack of those 1103s. One is mounted on an in-progress peanut scale build but I have not flown any of them yet. I think they might be a bit small for the 500/900 series Guillows kits.

August
Jul 09, 2017, 07:31 AM
Registered User
speedy01's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by K5083
I am using 1.7g "Orlandoo OH35P01"
Hello, August,

I 'm catching back up on my favorite threads, so enjoyed this one again from the start! Some very basic questions ... if you can share:

__ Sources for your motors, servos, and ESC (MX-3A ESC ($4.29 + shipping)). ?

You're obviously a skilled "solder guy", so in that regard:

__ What kind of soldering pad do you use (BTW, great idea on the stationary clothes pin!!)?

__ What kind of soldering iron/station?

And finally (WHEW!), how much down/right thrust on the motor, and what are you using for a prop adapter?

EDIT: I found your prop attachment method here.

Appreciate all the info.

Gene K
Last edited by speedy01; Jul 09, 2017 at 07:45 AM.
Jul 09, 2017, 09:48 PM
Oh! Just love model
K5083's Avatar
Thread OP
Hi Gene,

Although that would be my prop attachment method for a UMX prop, I don't usually use those; I prefer the GWS props or their clones. My usual prop adapter is either an O-ring one or one of the E-Flite set-screw prop adapters. For the Skyraider I'm using the E-Flite 1.5mm adapter, EFLM1933, and whatever spacers and washers were needed. The prop is a Gemfan 5030.

Also, further to thebufenator's question about servos, I took a photo of the packaging of mine to help you with sourcing. As you can see, the full name of the brand is Orlandoo-Hunter.



Note the slogan, "Oh! Just Love Model." You know you are getting quality when you see something like that. If you want to go to the manufacturer's site, it is oh-model.com. I just buy them on ebay. Note that these servos are rated for 1s only. But you could use them with a diode if you powered them from a 2s receiver.

I am using ebay for all of my gear these days. I buy my motors 4 at a time, and my last purchase was from this vendor. The listing for the $4.29 ESC is here. The servos are available for $4.99 apiece from this guy.

My "soldering pad" is a cheap wooden cutting board. Has picked up a couple of scorch marks but works fine. My soldering station is this one.

Down and right thrust is just kind of whatever looks right based on RTFs of similar size. I'm not even sure how to measure the angle.

August
Last edited by K5083; Jul 09, 2017 at 10:02 PM.
Jul 09, 2017, 09:58 PM
Oh! Just love model
K5083's Avatar
Thread OP
Okay, now for an update on the actual model. Things have progressed quite a bit since the last post. I threw out the kit cowling and made a wooden one, redesigning the front of the nose to have a more constant chord rather than the weirdly tapered Guillows one. The cowling is sheeted with 1/32 balsa and the front is a disc of 1/4 balsa shaped on my motor tool. I framed the wings and built the tail feathers. The wings have an extra spar near the leading edge to round the airfoil better. Wings were attached a few weeks ago. This weekend's objective was to install all the control systems.



For the ailerons I decided to try the heat-shrink-connector method that someone taught us in one of the other threads, I think the WWII Scale Models Book one. I had trouble with it. The method is sound, but fitting the pre-shrunk heat shrink to the ends of the torque rods in the crowded little fuselage was very fiddly. After breaking formers and stringers with my fat fingers, I still didn't seat them as well as I wanted. I'm sure this would be easier if it were done on an 1-piece wing not yet attached to the fuselage. Anyway, despite looking ugly, the installation works okay when powered on and tested. Since the method has merit, I'm sure I'll use it again on other builds, and maybe I'll get better at it.



I then installed the other two Orlandoo servos and hooked up the tail controls, which were conventional and went very quickly.



So here's the model with all the systems tested, centered and working, and the wood repaired that was broken during the installation process. Still a long way to go, but it is getting there.

August
Last edited by K5083; Jul 09, 2017 at 10:07 PM.
Jul 10, 2017, 06:50 PM
Registered User
speedy01's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by K5083
Note the slogan, "Oh! Just Love Model." You know you are getting quality when you see something like that.
Any particular reason you went with those servos vice the 5320 ultra micro digital servos from HobbyKing?

Thanks for all the information and links, August, especially on the ESC (I have four coming my way).

Gene K
Last edited by speedy01; Jul 10, 2017 at 07:04 PM.
Jul 10, 2017, 08:18 PM
Registered User
AntiArf's Avatar
Ebay: At least you can get some idea of shipping time based on the vendor ratings, especially CONUS, if you need it timely, or in the case of some vendors, actually expect to get it.

Probably a good idea to use the diode with the HK micro digitals also. I've read that they may fail on 5V. I've been using the diode drop on the HK (bought some from the US warehouse a while back) and they're still plenty fast, as well as the 2.5 Emax digital servos.
Last edited by AntiArf; Jul 11, 2017 at 08:37 AM.
Jul 10, 2017, 08:48 PM
Oh! Just love model
K5083's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy01
Any particular reason you went with those servos vice the 5320 ultra micro digital servos from HobbyKing?

Thanks for all the information and links, August, especially on the ESC (I have four coming my way).

Gene K
I haven't placed a HK order in quite some time. I got frustrated by the erratic availability of the items I wanted most from their US warehouses, and they stopped offering good deals on larger items such as ARF models that I would tack smaller items onto. If they would do something cool like be a distributor for Alfa, I'd start using them again. But when I find an item on eBay I know the vendor actually has it in stock, and shipping is often free so there's no penalty for just ordering a small item by itself.

August
Jul 11, 2017, 06:07 AM
Or current resident
glewis's Avatar
About the torque rod heat shrink tube hinges. On an installation like yours I have made a heat shield out of aluminum foil and used the heat gun to shrink the tubing in place in the model. I have a small nozzle on my heat gun that makes this possible, no way it would work with the a big heat gun. Could use one of those torch style lighters too with the heat shielding.
Glenn


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