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May 16, 2017, 11:46 PM
FF lift master...sometimes
Discussion

Solder JST on to Turnigy Nanotech round


I just killed a lot of time on the web and the battery forum here, and decided I would just ask here since many people use these batteries:

I just bought 4 of the 1s 900 mAh rounds from HK, and need to solder leads to them. Being pretty inexperienced and unskilled at soldering, I thought I would ask whether the tabs on these batteries are aluminum or nickel, what if any special solder/flux is needed, and just get some general advice.

What do I need to do and what precautions do I need to take to solder to these cells? Feel free to point me to something that my search missed, but I'd really like to hear from people using these batteries.

--Bill
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May 17, 2017, 12:08 AM
a.k.a. Bob Parks
I use some standard flux, that I use when soldering anything when soldering the tabs on those cells. Good hot temp controlled iron & it only takes a proverbial second.

Be careful to NOT short the wires together! I usually will put the plug on first, then solder the pigtails. if splicing wire already on a cell, I stagger the cut ends, then heat shrink tube on everything.

BP
May 17, 2017, 02:01 AM
Registered User
As BP said...
Additionally:
Use a Dremel to grind off the end caps - this will make it easier to apply solder to them
Not only use a hot iron, but also one that is big enough (e.g. has enough heat storage capacity) to heat up the end cap quickly

IMPORTANT:
each solder operation on the end cap should last less than 5 seconds! If you can't achieve the desired result in that time frame, stop, let the cell cool down for a 1-2 minutes and try again.

1.: grind end caps
2.: apply solder to each end cap, giving the cell time to cool between solder operations
3.: soak the wire ends with solder
4. : solder the wire ends to the end caps

I then cover the cell with heat shrink, and also shrink a loop of a thin rope on with the wires, which can be used to pull the cell out of the glider nose.
That way you don't have to pul on the cables.

Good luck!

Georg
May 17, 2017, 02:04 AM
FF lift master...sometimes
Thanks for the answers.

End caps? These have tabs to solder to... I continue to be confused.
May 17, 2017, 02:16 AM
Registered User
Most of the tag are "welded" to the end caps with very small / weak spot welds.
I would recommend removing the tags, and soldering direct to the end caps.
May 17, 2017, 05:23 AM
DLG Addict
Scrib's Avatar
Standard 60/40 rosin-core solder is fine. In my experience the tabs can be soldered-to directly with no problem. If you solder directly to the end-cap try to limit the contact time between the iron and the battery, don't want to heat the electrolyte too much in a small area.

Use heat shrink or wrap the whole thing in tape to keep the wires secure - to remove stress/strain from the wires/tabs/solder connections.

J
May 17, 2017, 06:34 AM
I'm not as bad as they say.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pgleesonuk
Most of the tag are "welded" to the end caps with very small / weak spot welds.
I would recommend removing the tags, and soldering direct to the end caps.
Not these. These aren't metal can batteries, these are aluminum sack batteries where the tab comes from inside.

I've made about 25 of these, regular solder, right to the tab. Make sure and stabilize/strain relieve the tab/wire after soldering because the tabs are fragile and will break with a few bend cycles. I usually solder, then put heat shrink on, then puddle the ends with hot glue.
Latest blog entry: AIrcraft I've built.
May 17, 2017, 06:54 AM
Wayne Wimbish
wdwimbish's Avatar
On the nanotech round cells, I carefully peal back the Kapton tape to expose the tabs. Then I tin the tab quickly with 60/40 rosin core solder. Do this quickly so that the cell itself does not get exposed to too much heat.

As bbbp said, make up your leads with the plug already on so that you can't short anything accidentally. Tin the end of your wires and then hold the tinned wire to the tinned tab. It should only take a little heat for the tinned solder to flow together. You can add a drop more solder if needed to make a good shiny bead. Hold very steady while it cools so you don't create a cold joint.

After the leads are on, then carefully replace the Kapton tape so that all connections are fully covered. Lastly put the red and black polarity tape on and the finished cell should look the same as before but now with leads. (btw, I usually do one end at a time so that I don't accidentally forget the polarity.)
May 17, 2017, 07:58 AM
Winging it >
leadfeather's Avatar
How about this? Solder your wires to small steel washers. Attach the washers to the battery with small Neodymium batteries. Now you have a quick change method to swap out batteries with no soldering directly on the batteries .

Battery only weight 29.0 grams
Finished weight with connector and tape 31.8 grams

Avoids the need to solder directly to the battery.
Last edited by leadfeather; May 18, 2017 at 12:43 PM. Reason: Added more details and photos.
May 17, 2017, 10:30 AM
Registered User
B75Driver's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by leadfeather
How about this? Solder your wires to small steel washers. Attach the washers to the battery with small Neodymium batteries. Now you have a quick change method to swap out batteries with no soldering directly on the batteries .
I'm always trying to accumulate the tenths of grams in weight savings. But I like this idea in a non critical weight application.
May 17, 2017, 01:13 PM
Rick Rogahn
Endless Sloper's Avatar
I think others have mentioned this, but want to make sure it's out there. I always, always tape / fix / etc... the leads in some way to the battery after soldering. You don't want the tab taking any load when you are connecting, disconnecting, swapping batteries, etc.
May 17, 2017, 08:26 PM
a.k.a. Bob Parks
I have used gorilla glue on the cell ends the protect the tabs then heat shrink the cells, with a loop of wire along the cell for the near end tab. The other wire runs along the cell under the heat shrink & is well supported.

BP
May 17, 2017, 09:23 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by leadfeather
How about this? Solder your wires to small steel washers. Attach the washers to the battery with small Neodymium batteries. Now you have a quick change method to swap out batteries with no soldering directly on the batteries .
Sorry but to me -this is scary, steel washers and magnets? People worry about real battery connectors or servo connectors coming loose. In my opinion this idea has no place in any model aircraft or at least in any model you want to keep .

I have never removed my 1 cell battery from my dlg-no reason to it charges in 10 -15 minutes with a simple circuit board charger and a battery bank used for cell phones.

Jack
May 17, 2017, 09:37 PM
G_T
G_T
Registered User
When I make these up, I have both end leads coming over the battery to join and then go off to the connector. This is all under the thin shiny hard plastic type shrink wrap. This takes ALL mechanical stress off the end tabs and solder joints.

Gerald
May 17, 2017, 10:16 PM
Time for me to Fly...
Mr. Wiz's Avatar
Every once in awhile I'll come across a tab that the solder won't stick to. It hot enough for the solder to be a liquid but it just runs off like a bead of water on a freshly waxed car. Anyone ever experience that and if so what did you do about it? I've tried cleaning with alcohol, cleaning with acetone, I've tried roughing them up with an Emory board and I get the same result. I just end up pitching the cell in the trash and getting another. I can't be the only one that gets this problem.


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