Ultimateīs H9 ME-109 - RC Groups
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May 13, 2017, 07:02 AM
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Ultimateīs H9 ME-109


Hi buddies, let me share with you all my actual project.. now itīs the discontinued H9 ME BF 109... want to do a electric conversion and go with full option flaps, retracts, canopy interior and surface superdetailing just to be competitive on F4H Sport Scale... plan to use a Axi 4130/20, 100 amp. opto speed controller, APC 17x10 or 12 prop. and 6S 5.000 mah...
As always we start doing some retouches with the irons to the covering and the first one will be working on the wing...
Want to share with you all also some of my techs developed during the years about finishing over film covered models, as panneling, wheatering, simulation of metal surfaces and even fabrics and rib streching...
The model done by H9 is a Messer BF-109, F2 flow by german ace Otto Kittel on the Eastern Front.

http://www.cieldegloire.com/001_kittel_o.php
Last edited by ultimatetwo; May 27, 2017 at 02:06 PM.
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May 13, 2017, 07:04 AM
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Want to use the original Hangar 9 retracts and struts, so we need to open the holes onto the covering , some retouches were done on the edges of the retracts bays and seams and some glue joints were reinforced with 30 min. epoxy...
May 13, 2017, 07:14 AM
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For a electric model final AUW is very important and this plane by the factory and with the recomended elements many modellers report that need a lot of weigh on the nose as ballast for achieve an aceptable center of gravity. We hate to add lead for that on our planes so begin to planing from the start with that goal on mind and try to eliminate every gram possible on the rear side, this way we swap to another lighter servos, transmisions, hardware and so on... for the flaps action we choosed the smaller and lighter, 3.5 kg. force, metal geared, tiny HD servos, this way we can save over 40 grs. of total four servos and thatīs a lot of lead on the nose. That HD servos are a bargain, honest, little servo and we used many of then on most of our models and without any issue till now..
This way we must to do a little mod onto the flaps servos trays and did new trays for this servos, by the way rubber gromments were used on the servos cables exit for a tidy installation...
May 13, 2017, 07:19 AM
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Rubber gromments keeps cables routed into the wing and when connecting you can pull outside and hook up.. after flying the cables keep nicely stored into the airframe... just only the plugs protudes outside...
May 15, 2017, 09:26 AM
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Some time was used adjusting the fit of the retracts so they did the full sequence without touching against the structure of the wing... this way we need to cut a little of the front on the plastic cap that cover the retracts bay... also even the Hangar 9 retracts looks is awesome and very good quality one of the retracts gear desnīt work properly... we had to dismount and adjust the microgears that come close to the motor cause the motor shaft doesnīt geared on one of the gears.. just a matter of less than a milimiter but enough for doesnīt work as should... Once repaired both retracts works flawless till now...we installed the plastic gear doors per instruction and a some screw glue was used to secure the allen screws...
May 15, 2017, 09:29 AM
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German light gray Vallejo acrilic artistics paints was used to paint and match the finish onto the rods and horns on the ailerons as some exposed wood on the retracts mount and bays...
May 15, 2017, 09:35 AM
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Other way to continue on the saving weigh program on the rear of this warbird is change the metal steel 3mm. allen head screws that hold the boxes of the four flaps system by another plastic screws of the same width and dimensions... over 12 grms. were saved by this metod , by now plastics screws plus the use of smaller and lighweigh four HD servos on the flaps, let us save 52 grs. on the rear side...that way more latter we can add some more details on these areas and into the canopy interior as not use lead for ballast on the nose to get the proper center of gravity...
For scale... a good fountain of documentation and research is very important so using a good three views drawings on this stage we begin the job of superdetailing adding pannel lines with sharpies, doing lines on 3D pressing with pencils that also serves for wheatering and using sharpies for show some rivets and latch...hinges and screws heads were painted also on german light gray...
Last edited by ultimatetwo; May 15, 2017 at 09:41 AM.
May 16, 2017, 09:02 AM
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Following the three views drawing we try to duplicate all the panneling and some rivets areas... usually want to start with the bottom of the wing... this way you got the " feeling " to do these details and when moving to other more visibles areas you now are on the way to go..., some highllights mainly on rivets are done with silver sharpie while the wheatering and some stains is done with a num. 1,2 and 3 Stadler grafite pencils...
May 20, 2017, 01:58 PM
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Using a piece of sandpaper of 400 and 600, with lot of care not removing the paint we just rub the surface following and imaginary airflow scratching a little bit the surface for wheathering... also separation of the pannel lines were saved with contact paper.. dust around pannel lines were enhanced with graphite pencil núms. 2 y 3...
May 20, 2017, 02:05 PM
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the same pencils were used to lightly press around the black lines of the pannels.. this way the sheeting does a deep line and create the ilussion of a light separation interpannels... some washes with acrylics artist Vallejo and Model Master paints were done around the bottom of the wing were wheels may spit some mud on their runs on those not soo good, Eastern Front runways..., also, Warhammer Mithril Silver paint with a very smail brush were used too on the corners of some pannels to simulate the chirp of the original Luftwaffe light gray paint showing the bare metal...
May 23, 2017, 03:47 AM
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excellent job!
May 24, 2017, 01:26 PM
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Tx so much for your kindly words buddy... what I want is sharing between you all these tips learned with time about finishing covered models, and this way... do our models more realistics...is...let me say so... a half way between a covered and painted job...at ends looks very similar to this one but with the great adventage of the saving weigh covering of films...
May 24, 2017, 01:30 PM
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And said that letīs posting a little bit about our H9 messer..., following the most exact possible a good three views drawing of the prototype we continue adding some scale details to the bottom of the wing.... we added some highlights to simulated rivets on determinated areas with silver and alum. acrilics paint done with a 00 fine artistic brush... also the main body of struts were painted on light german gray to a more uniform looks... metallics and black Staedler Lumocolor permanent sharpies were used for panneling and highlights...
May 24, 2017, 01:36 PM
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Letīs go a little bit with the detailing of the bottom surface...some wheatering were added again on the area just behind wheels on the starboard wing too and black, oracover film were ironed onto the front of flaps covers to simulate the oppening of this elements... with all these easy techs if you see the surface of the covered model with light incidence on a shallow angle, separations, deeping lines interpannels are clearly seen and illusion of a metal, pannel painted job with the deterioration of use, rough manteinance of wartime, wheater elements and even battle damage can and must be shown..as done before with our Top Flite P47 job...we will be seeing more detailed on future..many of these techs over covering can be even done on WWI warbirds to looks like fabric covered areas and even models too...
Regards.
Manolo.
Last edited by ultimatetwo; May 24, 2017 at 01:50 PM.
May 25, 2017, 07:31 AM
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And now that we have the bottom face of the wing almost finished now itīs time to go to the upper surface...the starting point will be add some more pannel lines to the original ones.. again..documentation is essencial for this steps... following the tree views drawing we start panneling using the Stadler Lumocolor fine black ink sharpie and a plastic, flexible ruler.. after that will continue with the pencils pressing a little bit... just enough pressure to deep over 1mm. or less on the balsa wood and create the looks of the pannels separation... the graphite of the own pencil over the black, sharpie ink will help to create the metal looks down the paint... the separation lines on the top wing and fuse, as comes is sharp but closely looks to pics and profiles show that are not so, this way we mix acrilics colors trying to match the post possible the covering colors and aply over the separation lines to looks more like the original air gun paint job...


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