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May 12, 2017, 07:04 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
Discussion

Dirty Birdy ARF


Just purchased NIB and am assembling parts to build this beauty! Looking for any tips! I welcome any an all advice as I'm retuning to flying after 45 year hiatus

Will be Electric cause it fits my lifestyle and my starter planes.

Please suggest ALL Mods. cause I want to keep it flying. The fuselage just past the wing feels a bit weak! Thoughts?

Thanks and look forward to the input!
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May 12, 2017, 09:25 AM
DavidsPlanes
doxilia's Avatar
Try an Electrifly Rimfire 60 on an APC 12x9/13x8e prop. 6s5K LiPo. Amazing power (~1.8-2.0 KW)!

Electric trike retracts of course (because they'll hold up in the absence of vibration). You can use E-Flite 25-46 units. They're fine on 4 mm struts.

Never had the ARF so can't comment or suggest further on that front. However, if the tail boom is "soft", you can add a pair of thin 1/4" strips of CF down the sides and epoxy them in with ZAP finishing resin. Once cured the boom will be much stiffer.

Brief absence... Welcome back to the fold!

David
Last edited by doxilia; May 12, 2017 at 10:19 AM.
May 12, 2017, 09:41 AM
AMA 32832 - SPA L27-VRCS 1138
Dave Swanson's Avatar
The old Dirty Birdy ARF thread on RCU has quite a bit of good information. One of the guys did a electric conversion starting on page 15 with sporadic updates then on that you may find useful.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/clas...dy-arf-15.html
May 12, 2017, 10:18 AM
DavidsPlanes
doxilia's Avatar
You might find this post helpful too:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/clas...l#post11067420

and this review thread:

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...-60-ARF-Review

David
Last edited by doxilia; May 12, 2017 at 01:07 PM.
May 12, 2017, 11:56 AM
A man with too many toys

EP Conversion


How do you guys recommend making a battery hatch. I have a couple of old nitro pattern ships with fiberglass fuselages (including the GP Dirty Birdy ARF). I would like to see what others have done before I start cutting on that beautiful fiberglass fuselage.
May 12, 2017, 01:09 PM
DavidsPlanes
doxilia's Avatar
Take a look at Doug's Conquest IVe electric conversion thread on this forum. There are details on making a LiPo access hatch out of the glass canopy section.

David

Wow RC Man, just noticed - 22.7K posts on RCG since 2001! That's serious...
Last edited by doxilia; May 12, 2017 at 03:08 PM.
May 12, 2017, 03:04 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Thanks will do. Having the forum makes the hobby have a new dimension!
May 12, 2017, 03:31 PM
Raised on 80's Pattern
Fatherof4's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by doxilia
Take a look at Doug's Conquest IVe electric conversion thread on this forum. There are details on making a LiPo access hatch out of the glass canopy section.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...d-Thread/page6

Doug
May 12, 2017, 06:39 PM
Registered User
Jet_Flyer's Avatar
If you sort though the Dirty Birdy ARF thread on RCU they found that the fiberglass used in the fuselage has some unusual properties that causes it to cave in on its self. If you decide to cut the fuselage you might want to be carful how you support the cut out area.

Mike
May 12, 2017, 07:50 PM
Registered User
To stiffen the fuse sides, I used two pieces of firm 1/4 x 1/2 balsa, long enough to span the distance from wing T.E. to near stab L.E.

I cleaned as well as I could the inside of the fuse sides with alcohol and then spread a good layer of epoxy on the flat side of the balsa strip. With the fuse lying on it's side on the bench, I laid the flat side of the balsa strip on the inside of the fuse and used lengths of 1/2 x 1/2 steel key stock to hold the strip in place until the epoxy cured. One strip per side.

Repeat for the other side.

Seemed to help.
May 13, 2017, 05:33 AM
A man with too many toys
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimOliver
To stiffen the fuse sides, I used two pieces of firm 1/4 x 1/2 balsa, long enough to span the distance from wing T.E. to near stab L.E.

I cleaned as well as I could the inside of the fuse sides with alcohol and then spread a good layer of epoxy on the flat side of the balsa strip. With the fuse lying on it's side on the bench, I laid the flat side of the balsa strip on the inside of the fuse and used lengths of 1/2 x 1/2 steel key stock to hold the strip in place until the epoxy cured. One strip per side.

Repeat for the other side.

Seemed to help.
Do you have some photos?


.
May 13, 2017, 05:52 AM
Registered User
Sadly, no.

Biggest problem is access to the fuse interior


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