Hobbywing Flyfun V5 HV 130A/160A released - RC Groups
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May 06, 2017, 08:37 PM
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Atomic Skull's Avatar
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Hobbywing Flyfun V5 HV 130A/160A released


https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/prod...nt=31794182865



Supports up to 14S, 130A is $129 and 160A is $169

EDIT: One caveat, no governor. Basically all FBLs have a gov anyway though so that doesn't really matter much.
Last edited by Atomic Skull; May 06, 2017 at 09:16 PM.
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May 07, 2017, 03:08 AM
Grumpy old git.. Who me?
JetPlaneFlyer's Avatar
Sounds like it's aimed at planes not helis. Lack of governor would be a show stopper for me. The gov in the Platimum is fantastic and I use that rather than the FBL gov on all my helis as it works flawlessly and is easier to setup.

The HBobbywing Platinums also dont 'play nice' with the Vbar gov, they have a hard kick on startup apparently.
May 07, 2017, 03:18 AM
Grumpy old git.. Who me?
JetPlaneFlyer's Avatar
Also the only two versions listed are OPTO (no BEC). One of the biggest advantages of the Platimum series ESC is it's very powerful and reliable BEC.
May 07, 2017, 05:29 AM
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Atomic Skull's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer
Sounds like it's aimed at planes not helis. Lack of governor would be a show stopper for me. The gov in the Platimum is fantastic and I use that rather than the FBL gov on all my helis as it works flawlessly and is easier to setup.

The HBobbywing Platinums also dont 'play nice' with the Vbar gov, they have a hard kick on startup apparently.
I prefer the FBL gov because it's aware of collective changes while an internal ESC governor is not. The issue with the Platinum V4 with some FBL governors is due to incompatibility with the RPM signal. The V5 Flyfuns don't have an RPM signal output anyway so you'd be using an external RPM sensor.


Figured out that it's much easier to put the RPM signal plug on the motor side than on the ESC side, more room in the solder cup. I recommend throwing away the JST pigtail that comes with the HW sensor and getting an Align one as the wire is much better (18awg teflon)

Quote:
Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer
Also the only two versions listed are OPTO (no BEC). One of the biggest advantages of the Platimum series ESC is it's very powerful and reliable BEC.
But if you're like me and use the FBL governor and prefer a 2S lipo to power your electronics then you're just paying for stuff you're not going to use. A 160A Flyfun V5 costs half what the equivalent V4 Platinum does.
May 07, 2017, 05:41 AM
Grumpy old git.. Who me?
JetPlaneFlyer's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomic Skull
I prefer the FBL gov because it's aware of collective changes while an internal ESC governor is not.
Yeah, similar argument to pre-comp on the tail gyros, though many FBL have pre-comp set to zero anyway. Whatever the theoretical advantages of a FBL gov, the Hobbywing one works great.
May 09, 2017, 04:54 AM
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Atomic Skull's Avatar
I asked Hobbbywing tech support if the Flyfun V5 could be used on helicopters and here's what they said:

Quote:
Originally Posted by falconsekido7@gmail.com
Checking in with the heli team and they have informed me they are still waiting on some field testing to be completed before we will have for sure recommendations for the fun fly series and helis.
May 25, 2017, 07:12 PM
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Atomic Skull's Avatar
Currently using one of these to upgrade my Rush 750 800 configuration (from 700 previously)

Flyfun V5 HV has no active anti spark so you need to install an anti spark system. I would recommend using anti spark connectors (XT90S or AS150) or if using a Y harness and two pole connectors put an AS150 on the series jumper and connect it last.

̶ ̶N̶o̶ ̶R̶P̶M̶ ̶s̶i̶g̶n̶a̶l̶,̶ ̶b̶u̶t̶ ̶a̶ ̶H̶W̶ ̶p̶h̶a̶s̶e̶ ̶s̶e̶n̶s̶o̶r̶ ̶i̶s̶ ̶e̶a̶s̶y̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶i̶n̶s̶t̶a̶l̶l̶ ̶o̶n̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶m̶o̶t̶o̶r̶ ̶l̶e̶a̶d̶s̶ ̶(̶I̶ ̶a̶l̶w̶a̶y̶s̶ ̶i̶n̶s̶t̶a̶l̶l̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶c̶o̶n̶n̶e̶c̶t̶o̶r̶ ̶o̶n̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶m̶o̶t̶o̶r̶ ̶s̶i̶d̶e̶ ̶n̶o̶w̶ ̶b̶e̶c̶a̶u̶s̶e̶ ̶i̶t̶'̶s̶ ̶e̶a̶s̶i̶e̶r̶)̶

RPM sensor is on the single yellow wire, single white wire is reverse brake. Manual stakes yellow wire is brake and does not mention white wire. This is apparently different for the Flyfun HV. Even Hobbywing tech support did not know this (they told me no RPM signal). I did some testing and discovered this.


Soft start is NOT usable for helicopters, it's much too fast, you will need to use an external FBL governor (Vbar governor or whatever)

I sent email to Hobbywing about the white "mystery wire" and tech support had no idea what it was for, testing shows it's not an RPM signal lead. There is a yellow brake lead, I have no idea what the white lead is for. Tech support said they would look into it and get back to me.

I have designed a fan mount that I have sent out to be printed by Shapeways. After I've confirmed everything fits I'll put the files up on Thingiverse.



I designed this for the Platinum V4 fan but any 40mm fan with 32mm hole spacing will work.
Last edited by Atomic Skull; May 25, 2017 at 08:08 PM.
Jun 01, 2017, 10:19 PM
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Here it is, this is the Rush 750 version which has a step on the bottom for ther narrow 46mm wide frame:















I'm going to add some embossed detail indicating which side is the front, otherwise you have to measure the tabs by hand (they are different lengths at the front and back). Also I'm going to create a version with plain through holes to be screwed down to a surface with the ESC. As soon as that is finished I'll upload the files to Thingiverse.
Jul 09, 2017, 05:19 PM
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Did u get great result with this esc on helicopter Atomic?
Jul 09, 2017, 06:02 PM
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Atomic Skull's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by gabrielwong1991
Did u get great result with this esc on helicopter Atomic?
Heli is still apart I decided to convert the Rush to 800 configuration and I haven't had a lot of spare time lately.
Jul 10, 2017, 05:25 PM
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I am thinking to get one and use spirit governor but dont know if it performs like the v4. It seems the flyfun have a lot more capacitor than the v4
Sep 25, 2017, 01:32 AM
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Atomic Skull's Avatar
Some FBL units have problems reading the RPM signal from the Flyfun V5 either getting signal dropouts or not reading it at all. If this is a problem then this circuit will fix it.



You can use an R2 value between 4.7K and 10K, just scale the value of R1 to match and pick the closest standard resistor value. If the power pin on your RPM port puts out +5v use 6.8k to 15k for R2 instead and scale R1 to match. (e.g. 6.8K for R2 and 56K for R1 or 15K for R2 and 120k for R1)
Oct 04, 2017, 01:58 AM
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Atomic Skull's Avatar
A little late on this but here's the 3D files for the fan mount.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2567411

Fits the 130A and 160A HV OPTO units.
Oct 05, 2017, 12:11 AM
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Atomic Skull's Avatar
Complete RPM signal adapter made from a 3x5 piece of proto board:



Nov 02, 2017, 11:03 PM
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Atomic Skull's Avatar
I now recommend this over the transistor based adapter, it uses a Schmitt trigger to condition the signal. Basically when the input signal rises above a set threshold it turns full on and when it falls below a set threshold it turns full off i.e. it is always either full on/off with nothing in between. So if there is any noise in the signal or the waveform is distorted this corrects it and produces a clean square wave output. You could even feed it a sine wave and it would output a square wave on the other side. This can handle 1.6v to 5.5v Any more and you will need a voltage divider or to pull 3.3 or 5v from somewhere to power it (most RPM signal ports are either 3.3v or 5v anyway)



On the 3DIGI this performed a little better than the transistor logic gate, I had to adjust the tail settings because of this (it actually works much better with the default tail settings now) The logfile showed less spiky "noise" in the governor P-part and throttle output when it reacts to loads on the head and tail.

To solder the chip down you need a magnifier and some sort and a fine point soldering iron. A dot of epoxy can be applied to the board before the chip is positioned to keep it from moving while you are soldering. You should also flux the leads first and then preload the soldering tip. touch the leads with the tip and the solder will flow down onto the pad. Any excess can be wicked with a piece of stripped servo wire.

I got the chip here but they took over a month to arrive.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-SOT23...53.m2749.l2649

The PCBs can be found from multiple ebay sellers, I got mine here:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-6-pin...53.m2749.l2649

I also bought some 2 position Dupont housings and put the RPM and brake wires into one of these housings. The brake wire goes to the ground, you could just leave it out and put a dummy terminal in the housing if you want, or use a three position housing and 3 pin connector on the board. (though in this case the RPM signal wire would be the center wire in the three pin housing which could in theory cause problems/damage if you forgot and plugged it directly into a powered servo port)
Last edited by Atomic Skull; Nov 02, 2017 at 11:20 PM.


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