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Mar 18, 2018, 07:01 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
I cant remember exactly how I did mine so long ago - but as long as the incidence and wing position is right then you can 'wing it' if need be
Sorry I cant be more help! Mine was a bit 'redesigned on the spot' it seems
Pat
Latest blog entry: Changes of Direction
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Mar 18, 2018, 07:07 PM
Aka Magical Moonstone
balticS2's Avatar
Hi Vicky

Yes I think the blue section is the for the 3/16 mainframe. This gets doubled on the inside with 1/32 ply and on the outside by 1/8 balsa which gets sculpted to form the side-bottom curve and sits level with the stringers. Do you have the bit that shows the cross section (below)?

I think the mystery dotted rectangle is the end section of a crossmember to brace the leading edge.

Not quite following the battery photos, but maybe someone else can help?

All the best

Alec
Mar 19, 2018, 03:11 AM
Viceless no longer :)
fairweatherflyer's Avatar
Thread OP
Hi Alec, and Pat
Thank you.
The other q re the pics with the battery don't matter as long as that is a cross member shown . Where the u/c fits the carved block in the underside of the wing does not match up and would bring the wings forward by 3/16th if shown in that position. - but that is no huge problem as long as the wing position is confirmed.

Thanks for the extract of the shaping cross section.. Always good to have that handy.

Thanks
Vicky
Mar 20, 2018, 02:56 PM
Viceless no longer :)
fairweatherflyer's Avatar
Thread OP
some of the previous pile of parts now used - have 2 of the basic side frames with none of the bells and whistles on yet.
Have test fitted former f2 (with the cabane) and that is a good fit) hooray.
Test fit and double check of former f1 - proved an error in my cutting where it is too narrow by about 2mm. This was the most difficult part to try to cut. There is all the world of difference between cutting lite 1/8th and medium 3/16th manually. I used a huge variety of tools to try and cut it, some work better than others depending on the grain direction etc. Anyway I will remake it with 1/8th light and 2 laminations one front and back of 1/32nd ply.
Last edited by fairweatherflyer; Mar 20, 2018 at 03:02 PM. Reason: trying to add photos.
Mar 20, 2018, 05:55 PM
Viceless no longer :)
fairweatherflyer's Avatar
Thread OP
bother - didn't get the cabane right did I - forgot the all important bend at the top to seat the cross wire on. - hopefully easy to sort as its not in permanently yet. - I knew I'd got let off the wire bending to easily this time!
Mar 22, 2018, 04:15 PM
Is it suppose to do that?
moscow580's Avatar
Hi Vicky.

Looking great. Don’t fret it is part of this wonderful hobby.

Sean
Mar 24, 2018, 02:34 PM
Viceless no longer :)
fairweatherflyer's Avatar
Thread OP
Hi all,

How do people find it easier to pull the tail end so that it is straight.
I have the front former/firewall in place and the former f2 with the front cabane attached. To pull it in evenly so I don't have a banana of a Demon do people find it easier then to pull the tail in and then work the cross peices and formers in or is it easier to carry on working down front to back?

Thanks in advance. T_om you have a week left to find the rest of last year's Easter eggs.
Hi Sean, making parts twice has been part of the course with this one so far - but I was expecting that - laser cut kit would be great, but the affordability isn't so good.

Vicky
Last edited by fairweatherflyer; Mar 24, 2018 at 03:11 PM.
Mar 24, 2018, 03:46 PM
So I'M meant to be in control?
Colonel Blink's Avatar
Draw three parallel lines on your building board; one is the centreline, and the other two mark the straight sections of the fus sides. Then pull
the ends together glue with a fairly slow drying glue (ie not CA!!!) and keep eyeballing from above to be sure the fus is still sitting straight and the tail is pulled together over the centreline. Hold with a British Standard Plastic Clothes Peg. If practical, flip the fus over and check it is still over the centreline. Leave to dry, add crosspieces at Gas Mark 9, add salt to taste and serve with copious to excessive amounts of red wine.
Mar 25, 2018, 10:03 AM
The Junk Man
Quote:
Originally Posted by fairweatherflyer
Hi all,

How do people find it easier to pull the tail end so that it is straight.
I have the front former/firewall in place and the former f2 with the front cabane attached. To pull it in evenly so I don't have a banana of a Demon do people find it easier then to pull the tail in and then work the cross peices and formers in or is it easier to carry on working down front to back?

Thanks in advance. T_om you have a week left to find the rest of last year's Easter eggs.
Hi Sean, making parts twice has been part of the course with this one so far - but I was expecting that - laser cut kit would be great, but the affordability isn't so good.

Vicky
Wait. Easter is coming up?

Tom
Mar 27, 2018, 11:00 AM
Is it suppose to do that?
moscow580's Avatar
Hi Vicky

I made my Dr1 fuse the same way the Colonel suggested. Three parallel lines with weights holding the front done and then bring the rear together with titebond and a clamp.

Sean
Mar 28, 2018, 03:12 AM
Viceless no longer :)
fairweatherflyer's Avatar
Thread OP
Hi Sean, Tom

A little progress and the former f9 which I've wasted about 2 evenings trying to cut the merlons and crenelations (don't know what they are called for model building - but referring to the wiggly bits around the top - which remind me of castle battlements) and it just wasn't working so I hope it is a satisfactory solution have used 2 laminations of 1/16th one at the larger extent and one at the smaller and hope I can feed the end of the stringers into that instead.
Mar 28, 2018, 06:35 AM
So I'M meant to be in control?
Colonel Blink's Avatar
Well I'll be! Your learn summat every day - in this case merlons (which according to Wikipedia, are twinned with crenels). I am now going apply to the King of the Realm for a Licence to Crenellate Blink Towers - where do I download the form?

Re the crenellated former, your solution sounds eminently practical.
Mar 28, 2018, 08:22 AM
Slip the surly bonds...
Sopwith Mike's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by fairweatherflyer
Hi Sean, Tom

A little progress and the former f9 which I've wasted about 2 evenings trying to cut the merlons and crenelations (don't know what they are called for model building - but referring to the wiggly bits around the top - which remind me of castle battlements) and it just wasn't working so I hope it is a satisfactory solution have used 2 laminations of 1/16th one at the larger extent and one at the smaller and hope I can feed the end of the stringers into that instead.
"Slots" Much less poetic though
Mar 28, 2018, 09:35 AM
So I'M meant to be in control?
Colonel Blink's Avatar
Ah but 'slots' is only the half of it..........


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